Mitsubishi Lancer

Front: Toe-in mm (in.): 0 +/- 2 ( 0 +/- 0.08) Camber (Selectable from 2 options): -1deg +/- 30' or -2deg +/- 30' (left/right deviation within 30') Caster: 3deg55' +/- 30' (left/right devitation within 30') Rear: Toe-in mm (in.): 3 +/- 2 (0.12 +/- 0.07) Camber: -1deg +/- 30' (difference between right and left within 30')

I would guess, it is starving for fuel. Start by replacing the fuel filter. If that does not help, suspect the fuel pump.

What information is needed?

Plan on a day of fun! The front three spark plugs are easy to get to; it's those back three. You have remove the black plastic air exchanger(?) on top of the engine. This is not easy. The bolts are in back where you can't see them and you don't have a lot of room to get a socket in there. Once you get that off, then you can get to the back plugs. Again, not easy to see, hard to access, especially number 5. Then, once you finally have the spark plugs changed, you have to put it all back togeth with the bolts going in where you can't see and can't get to very easy. But with enough stubborness, it can be done. Good luck!

THIS ANSWER IS INTENDED TO HELP YOU REMOVE THE ECU SO THAT A REPLACEMENT CAN BE INSTALLED. THE ONLY WAY TO REMAP AN ECU IS TO HAVE A MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP OR A FOREIGN CAR MECHANIC REMAP IT FOR YOU BECAUSE I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF A REMAPPING PROCESS WITHOUT INSTALLING AN AFTERMARKET PROCESSOR THAT IS DESIGNED FOR YOUR MODEL LANCER. AFTERMARKET PROCESSORS WILL ALLOW YOU TO ADJUST THE SETTINGS AND DO MANY DIFFERENT THINGS TO YOUR IMPROVE YOUR ENGINE PERFORMANCE BY USING A LAPTOP OR A HANDHELD PROGRAMMER. ***TOOLS NEEDED: 1/4" DRIVE RATCHET, 1/4" DRIVE 10MM SOCKET, 1/4" ADAPTER AND A SHORT EXTENSION*** The first step that I always take when working on any electrical or electronic part is to remove the negative battery terminal off of the battery with a 10mm socket or wrench. The ecu is located behind the glove compartment on the passenger's side of the dash board. To get to the ecu wiring, you have to remove the plastic protective cover that is underneath the passengers side dash near the console. To remove this cover you have to pull it toward the seat. It should come out rather easy. After it is removed, you should be able to see the ecu wiring harnesses. There are four connectors, varying in size and are yellow or white in color. To remove theses connectors, press the tab located on the cabin side of the connector and pull straight down. (NOTE: This can be very hard to do because the connectors could be stuck in place. Be very careful not to pull so hard that the connector releases and you severe a wire or break the connector all together as this could be very, very expensive!) Disconnect all of the connectors following the procedure listed above. Once all of the wiring connectors are removed, you are ready to remove the ecu. This will require you to remove the glove compartment to gain access to the screws that secure it in place. First, you will need to empty the glove compartment and then locate the removeable brace on the back left side. This is the piece the rests against the dash that outlines the glove compartment when closed. Reach inside and while holding the compartment slightly closed, push inward to unsecure the piece and then pull it out. Now push the back of the storage section of the glove compartment to the left just enough to get the other side around the dash on the right side. The compartment should be able to fall freely and hang upside down. Now you can unhook the hinges by lining up the open sections and pulling it off. Now you should be able to see two or three screws that secure a bracket for the ecu in place. (You can trace the ecu straight up and see the brackets and the screws. They are very obvious and easy to remove.) Remove the screws and pull the ecu out from under the dash. You will have to turn it and rotate it a little to get it out, but it is fairly easy to remove. Now you should examine the new ecu to make sure that the model numbers match as well as making sure that everything is present on the new one as well. On some replacement ecu's, the bracket has to be changed out. Install the new ecu by putting it back in it position with the wiring connections facing down and reinstalling the securing bolts, tightening them until they are snug. The wiring connectors are unique in size and have slots on them that will only connect to one slot. Replace each connector by placing them in the proper slot and pushing up until you hear a clicking sound that lets you know it is securely fastened. After all of your wiring connections are connected, reinstall the glove compartment by lining up the hinges and getting the piece back inside the dash by pushing the back to the left and pushing it inward. Now replace the removeable piece by placing it through the open slot on the back left corner and pushing it in. Reconnect the Negative battery terminal and, without starting the engine, turn the key on and check to see that everything inside the car is working. Let the car sit in this position for two to three minutes to make sure that nothing happens to your accessories i.e guages, lights stereo, etc. If everything is good, turn the key off and then start the engine (pray) without giving it any throttle. Let the engine run at idle for a while to give the ecu time to locate and recognize all of its parts and systems and set the parameters for each. If any problems are present, they will present themselves during this time period. After 10 to 15 minutes, take the car for a test drive around the block making sure to drive it for 5 or 10 minutes to ensure proper operation at regular speeds (25 to 55 mph). If it runs okay, you might want to take it out for a test run on the interstate or a main highway where you can achieve higher speeds (55 to 75 mph) to ensure proper operation. If at anytime the Service Engine Soon or the Engine shaped light comes on, stop immediately and take your vehicle to the nearest place available to have a diagnostics ran to pull the engine codes. (I believe that Autozone will hook your vehicle up to their diagnostics computer, pull the codes and give you a general idea as to the nature of the problem.) You should be able to get back to driving your vehicle now, so thank you for using my answer to the question!

First thing to do is check that the compressor clutch is engaging, when it is not working properly. If the outer pully is turning, as it does whenever the engine is running, and the inner part of the clutch is not turning, that could be your problem bad clutch or electrical connection . The inner and outer parts of the clutch need to be turning for the compressor to function. Have someone turn the AC on and off while you watch the clutch.

yea easy job if its a carb.but the car engine must be cold when adjusting.both electronic and water chokes are held on by a pinch ring with 3 small screws, loosen the screws so the choke turns.turn the choke until the tension on the choke butterfly (the brass flap on top of the carbs primary venturi) loosens ( keep tapping the butterfly down to check tension) if the tension increases ur turning the wrong way if the butterfly opens your going the right way but you've gone too far the butterfly should be only just closed.if u mean the idle speed when cold is too high (sounds like over revving) then there is a small screw located behind the choke mechanism located this first u may need a small mirror then start the car and turn the screw until the engine revs about 1200 rpm but be quick and don't rev the engine or the choke will come off and revs will lower anyway so u need to switch off the engine and wait for it to cool a little bit b4 re adjustinghope this helps

Per owner's manual provided, the tank's capacity is 60 litres or 15.9 imp. gal.

The IAT sensor for the second generation N/A(non turbo) 2.0L is the second port on the back of the intake manifold from the driverside, turbo versions have it in the air intake tubing before the throttle body. 1st gens and 3rd gens are usually around the same spot, either in the intake manifold or in the ducted work of the intake... hope i helped

Well the v6 engine will require you to take the intake off to get to the rear plugs but other than that it is pretty much the same

The light is on because there is a problem. Bring it in and get it looked at. That SRS could save your life someday.

why not specify what kind of transmission and what year and if stock, like my dsm its a 1992 AWD GSX stock.. maybe that can get this question moving in the right direction.

Manual tranny -.0