Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight

That depends on your definition of muscle car. Many consider the 1949 Oldsmobile Rocket 88 to be the first muscle car, but others consider it to be a "precursor."

Debuting in 1964, the Pontiac GTO is another car widely referred to as the original muscle car.

The GTO's success helped jumpstart the high-performance market and ushered in the era of the vehicle as status symbol.

UNPLUG IT! I DID & HAVE HAD NO PROBLEMS YET & THAT WAS A YEAR AGO!!

Front doors, "5 1/4", rear deck is "6x9".

I don't know but I usually follow the battery cable under the engine to where it connects to the starter - which is a rounded type apparatus attached there with several bolts.

Try it - you might find it.

I'm not sure how complex an answer you are looking for, but imagine a perfume atomizer. (The little bottle with the pump ball ladies use to mist expensive perfume on themselves when going out) A fuel injector does basically the same thing in delivering fuel into an engines combustion cylinder. Instead of a Carburetor, which used to rely principally on a combination of mechanical and vacuum means to deliver fuel, newer cars use computer controlled electronics to "mist" the fuel in through the injectors. It provides better gas mileage, cleaner, more complete combustion, far more precise fuel delivery, and any number of other advantages.

Bad gas, water in fuel, Low fuel pump pressure, dirty air flow sensor screen, one or more engine sensors defective and/or out of normal reporting ranges, engine control computer defective. Low battery and alternator output. The "check engine light"should have come on to give you a hint.

If you go towww.autovalue.com and look up the belt for your car, you can click on the first line in the parts list and get a routing illustration to print off.

Unless you are real skinny, best jack up the front of the car and make a safety support under the frame with concrete blocks or a safety jack stand. Now place a large 3 gallon shallow pan under the oil pan bolt hole area and remove the bolt. Be prepared to get some oil on your hand. Locate the small round oil filter under the passenger, back side of the engine. Remove it by turning counter clockwise and provide a smaller catch pan below to collect the oil. Give it 30 minutes to drain well. Install a new oil filter. Reinstall the oil pan bolt. Install new oil. Crank up. Look for oil leaks on oil filter or drain bolt. OK? Remove from jack stands. Reset dash "oil life " readout.

Buy a kit at Wal-Mart or auto parts comes with instructions

The Pass-Key, Pass-Key II, or VATS, as it's called in earlier GM vehicles, uses a resistor mounted in the key blank to confirm that the correct ignition key is being used to start the engine. Many people call the resistor pellet a "chip" due to the common misconception that it is some sophisticated digital circuit to identify the key to the car. Not quite. It is not a "chip" of silicon as is customarily used for integrated circuits, but merely a block of carbon appropriately sized to have a desired electrical resistance.

usually 3800 pounds

yes i have some on mineype your answer here...

Under the hood inside the black box marked "fuses" or "fuses and relays", the inside of the cover to this box will tell you which one is the fuel pump relay, also a little hint if you think the relay is bad switch it out with the a/c compressor realy just temporarily and try to start it, they are the same relay and perform the same function.

the fuel pump is in the gas tank. You must remove the fuel tank. Sometimes the exhaust system is in the way. After you get the tank out, the fuel pump/sending unit/tank filter is part of a large "cap" that twists out of the top of the tank. Inspect all the components carefully. Quite often the ethanol in the gasoline will corrode these components, and it is better to replace them now, than to have them crumble during re-assembly and have to re-do the repair. Be carefull when lowering the tank as there will be several lines that need to be disconnected as well as electrical connections that have to be un-plugged. Cost for a dealership to do it is usually $1500, and they can usually do it in one day.

I had to remove my drivers side door panel on a 1996 Olds 88 about 3 weeks ago. Remove the screws (2) from the inside center of the door. Slide out the plastic box that the screws were removed from. Lift the entire panel straght up from the bottom. If you have difficulty lifting the panel you can pull out on the lower back portion of the panel and expose the panel holder(s). These are two pieces of plastic. The piece that attaches to the door is a "press-in" that looks like a large screw with an exposed plastic disk. The piece on the door panel is a "receiver" that has an opening that the disk of the "press-in" slides into from the bottom. Forcing the panel away from the door will probably not break these, but lifting the panel up off of these holders is the preferred method. The are about 6-8 of these panel holders at different locations along the edges of the door.

HTH

Good luck.

if not your fuse, check the fan/blower relay.

With my '90, I had to replace the power steering pressure hose without having any clue what I was doing, and just had to figure it out as I went. It's actually rather simple.

One end of the hose is connected to the power steering pump, at the top middle of the engine on the passenger side. The other end is at the bottom rear of the engine bay on the driver's side. Jack up the car, then undo the serpentine belt from the alternator. The alternator is on the passenger side rear of the engine, right on top. Follow the bottom part of the belt down to the movable arm it bends around next. There's a small square hole that a ratchet handle will fit in, just use the ratchet handle to rotate it up and you'll be able to slip the serpentine belt off the alternator with ease. A short distance from here is a bolt with a small metal plate, about 1 by 1.5 inches, attached to it. It's one of three bolts that attach the alternator bracket to the engine. Use a 1/2" socket to rotate it out of the way of the power steering hose behind it. This will be a lot easier if you also remove the cover on that side of the engine bay, it just clips on in two spots right next to the support strut on that side of the engine. Pull up on the clips, and it should pop right out and you can pull it up and set it aside.

Next, remove the upper end from the power steering pump. Once you've done that, push the hose down to the bottom of the engine. Get under the car now, and remove the second metal part of the hose from the plastic clip that's holding it in place. Then, remove the other end of the hose from where it attaches on the driver's side. It's very cramped down here, and this end of the hose may be rather rusted. This was the hardest part for me for those very reasons.

Next, to put the new hose on, we'll just follow my previous instructions in reverse: Attach the bottom end first, making sure you tighten in securely, then put that part of the hose back into the plastic clip. Push the top end back up through the empty space on the passenger side of the engine, then crawl out and attach the top end to the power steering pump. Using the 1/2" socket, rotate the bolt with the attached metal piece back to its original position, then remove the socket and use the handle to rotate the movable arm up again. Replace the serpentine belt onto the alternator, then let the arm back down. Replace the cover you removed earlier, making sure it clips back into place.

Refill your power steering reservoir, and you should be in business.

More than likely 4.5 quarts. It is simple to find out. Park the car on a level surface. Drain the oil & replace the filter. Add 4.5 quarts of oil and start the engine. Run for 45 seconds and shut off. Let sit for 45 minutes and then check the level. Add as necessary. You now know the capacity.

WOW! If the heater fan relay is in the same place on a 95 that it is on a 96, your gonna have fun getting to it! Trust me on this one, GM's strong point has never been wiring let alone, how they accomplished tie deed.

If your looking for the heater relay, I'm assuming that you've already found the power distribution block and relay distribution centers located separately in the engine compartment and you've also located the power distribution center (smaller fuse panel) in the drivers area to no avail. Unfortunately, there is another power distribution and relay center that is hidden in the passenger area, when I say it's hidden, I'm not even joking. It's located between the heater core box and outside fender skin and just behind passenger side hinge post. I don't remember if you will be able to see it by removing the glove box or if you have to remove the many under skirting panels and dress parts to get a glimpse at it, either way, it's nearly impossible to reach let alone, trouble shoot or repair and may God help you if any of the several relays or fuses need repaired or replaced. This is no exaggeration, if you do manage to get a look at it, it'll be the only daylight this thing has been exposed to since it was stuffed into the hole that was built around it.

The heater relay that you're looking for is not just another simple relay, its part of an intricate circuitry known as you climate control system. If by chance you are looking for this relay because your heater unrepentantly comes on by itself even while the key is not in the ignition, you may be in luck. If this is the problem that your experiencing, check to see if the display is also coming for you climate control and temp display. If it is then your problem is not the relay, it's the accessory power distribution center relay which I suspect may also be located in the dreaded "hidden panel".

What I did was this and it works great! I dropped the fuse panel on the drivers side, clipped the wire that was powering the accessory center and climate control. I then added a micro relay (a Bosch relay will also work) across the open wire to bridge the circuit and used the ignition fuse to key the relay. This way the original power source for the hidden panel is still in tact and yet the switching source is now controlled by the redundant source that you just added.

you cant just cut it. you have to find out the ohm value of the proper key for the car. Then get ohm resistors that equal that value splice them into one of they yellow wires.

According to the Chilton manual, there is a relay center located under the right side of the instrument cluster. It is described as location "H" which is (looking at the panel as if the fuses are located at the bottom of the panel, the third from the bottom In the right column.

Wish I could verify that personally for you but I sold my olds a couple of months ago and quite frankly, don't remember seeing such a critter and I had that thing tore apart extensively when repairing my failed "climatron control". There is how ever another relay and power distribution panel located ender the extreme right end of the dash (I described it in an earlier question concerning the climate control failure) an jammed between the heater core box and behind the passenger door post. Lord help you if you need to get to it, it's an act of congress to even sneak a peek at it. It's possible that your fuel pump relay may be in this area but I'd check everything else first leaving the least as a last ditch effort.

What I have done out of disparity on a couple of older Caddy STS"s was to add an extra relay under the hood (under the power distribution box cover the wires you need are there as well as the room) which allowed me to bypass the OEM relay that we could never find. You will need an accurate schematic but all the wires are there that you will need to be able to make it function exactly as he original is supposed to. There should be the same wires available in the under hood fuse panel located on the upper passenger firewall area. Hope the was some help, Good Luck!

Just in front of the radiator overflow container, behind the right headlight, is another white plastic container. This is the PS fluid reservoir. Marks for "full" and "low" are on it. The cap simply twists off.

18436572 all small block gm the same

Change one plug at a time. Start by removing the "boot" covering the spark plug. Leave wire connected on other end. Use ratchet with "spark plug" attachment. Remove old plug, insert new plug. Attach new wire. Follow old wire to the correct connection. Remove old wire. Connect new wire. Continue until all plugs and wires are changed.