Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight

The check engine ligt is a tool that says you have a computer problem. You to put on a scan tool to see what codes are in the computer and to turn off the light.

AnswerPull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.

YesAnswerQ: Do you still have the key with the chip in it?

A: Yes, I have the key with the chip.

Q: Now how do we get these cars to run again? I have a 1992, delta 88 with 180K miles, nobody would wnat to steel this old clunker any more, I just love it and need to keep it running withou spending a forture at the dealers. Any help on how to locate the module, how to replace parts, etc will be appreciated. All my fuses are good, does this system have a relay that could go bad?

A: Measure the resistance of the pellet in your key, A GM dealer will do this for free, i.e. 616 Ohms. (Make sure it is the original key that has started the car in the past). With this value go to radio shack and get a resistor that matches (very difficult to find one matching resistor) or put a series of resistors together, i.e. solder together a 330 Ohm, a 220 Ohm, a 22 Ohm, a 22 Ohm, and a 22 Ohm resistor one after another to make a 616 Ohm resistor, or a 330 Ohm and a 220 Ohm resistor to make a 550 Ohm resistor. Whatever the resistance of the pellet in your key, is the resistor you will have to find (or make by soldering a series of resistors together).

Now under the dash cut the 2 wires out of the plug that would have connected to your lock cylinder (White and black wire& purple and white wire), now solder the resistor between the 2 wires DONE.

Make sure you place electrical tape over the connections and over any soldered resistors so it does not touch any part of the car body (ground).

If you are not certain which wires, then you will have to remove your steering wheel, air bag, turn signal switch, hazard switch, and ignition cylinder. Cut the two white wires to leading to the ignition cylinder and solder one end of your resistor (or series of resistors) to one wire and the other end to the other wire. You will need two specialty tools to remove your steering wheel, one pulls the steering wheel, the other compresses a spring so you can remove a clip (just ask the Discount Auto Parts or AutoZone guy/gal for the two tools you need to remove your steering wheel/column). You'll never be stranded again.

P.S. I did this to a 1996 Oldsmobile 88 (eighty eight)

I Just Changed Mine. First you need to take the belts off and remove the power steering lines. There is a bolt behind the pump that is hard to get at to loosen the belt. Then find the brackets and blots that hold the pump on and take them off.When everything is unbolted it should come off. Put everything back the way it come off. It really shouldn't be more then 3-4 bolts if I remember correctly. To retighten the belt I use a tire wrench and get on the side of the pump and pry up using the motor as a brace. Careful not to puncture the pump. There may be an easier way but this works. It's alot easier if there is 2 people to do this so you get the belt tightend correctly.

BoltsThere are two bolts that hold it on behind the pulley. One is located at approximatetly the 1 oclock position and the other at 6. You can access them through the access ports in the power steering pump pulley.

My 1993 Olds Ninety-Eight 3800 has 290.

AnswerUnless you have a supercharged engine,horsepower ratings for the 3800 (3.8 liter)V6 is around 170.

The naturally aspirated 3800 Series II is rated at 205 HP while the supercharged version is rated at 240 HP.

The engine in the 1989 ninety eight is the LN3 V6 which is rated at 165 HP