Oldsmobile Silhouette

door contact switches grounded or bad... dave

=It should draw from the reservoir under the hood.== =

Take it to the mechanic

Answer Yeas absolutuley can, Typical of the 3.8 and the 3.1 motors, Have also seen it it in the 3.4 motors. What do you have? It is probably an intake manifold gasket problem, depending on the motor.

Facing the front of the car, the water pump is on the left front of the engine. It is to the right of the battery. You can trace the hoses coming out of it if you lift the wiring harness.

most likely a alternater or just a bad battery you should be able to get them checked at you're auto part store

I had a vehicle that had that problem. I had a new battery and my alternator was good. It actually turned out to be a bad fuse in my fuse box for my engine compartment. Make sure your battery terminals are clean also.

are you sure is a valve noise?? or is a piston slap?

A pressure test on the cylinders will tell if you have a bad head gasket. If you hear a whistle sound near the intake gasket, spray WD-40 (or any type of petroleum spray) on the area and if there is a leak the engine rpms (or engine sound) should change.

On my '99 model its under the coolant resivoir, take the metal bar loose that the resivoir is mounted to, put it aside and it should be directly underneath, hope it helps.

Believe it or not..a semi pointed envelope opener works like a dream!

The oil pump is located on the bottom of the 2003 Silhouette engine. The oil pan has to be removed to get to it.

Open the hood, and between the engine and the radiator at the lower point will be a metallic hose with a black dust cap on it, that's the low pressure valve. you should attached the refrigerant in there.

Not a good one. You will need either a scan tool and/or a digital multimeter both of which are diagnostic tools.

For a bad test requiring no diagnostic tools, replace each sensor in turn to see if that fixes the problem.

this is a fun one you have to remove the power steering pump bolts and swing it out of the way to allow enough space to slide out the alternator. of course that is after you support and tilt the engine so you can get the alternator bolts out to. dont forget to disconnect the ground wire from the battery first. not a hard job just has to be a certain way

Becuase you did not put your mini-van in reverse?!

Depends what kind of heating problem you're having. If there is only cold air blowing out of the vents with the engine fully warmed up then the coolant level needs to be checked and filled at the radiator, not just the overflow tank. Also there is a bleeder valve sticking straight up behind the water pump that's used to bleed out air trapped in the cooling system. Open this valve slowly and slightly with the engine running at operating temp while filling the radiator until a stream with no bubbles comes out of the valve.

If this is not the case, send more info or if you perform this procedure and have the same results then you likely need to bring it into a shop for a complete prognosis.

all the messages are showing up on my 2000 olds silhoutte, why does it do this

4.5 quarts

Type your answer here...

Correct Answer: Allow for the normal expansion and contraction of brake fluid due to temperature changes

Do not take a radiator cap off. Fill from the overflow tank or you will add air to the cooling system and it will have to be bled off or your engine will overheat.

Have you checked for codes? Have you reset the codes?

The door panel just snaps on. Get a screwdriver between the metal of the door and the plastic and pry plastic panel away from the metal. Also, there are 2 bolts that hold in the middle, one bolt is behind the door handle. You need to pull out the plastic cover behind the handle to get at that bolt.

Hello, Not a mechanic, vacuum specialist or a electrician, I've managed to replace the head gasket on my 1998 Silhouette. It's running better than it ever has, passed emissions and is getting 5/mpg better then when I started the job. Begin first by investing in a digital camera. As you remove the simplest of clamps wire connectors and bolts, take pictures from every angle along the way. Very importantly mark and tag wires, especially spark plug wires, as to their orientation and take pictures of these as well. Guaranteed you will lose some of the markings and tags. The pictures will remind you approximately how things go back. You will be able to figure out the rest. I also used a journal to write notes as I went along and drew plenty of pictures. I also dedicated a bench in the garage so I could lay things out in the order that they were removed. I took pictures of all of that as I went along too. And last of all , work with your friendly parts counter person at a dealership for genuine parts and blow up pictures of the engine. I got all of this from the parts counter at our local Chevrolet dealership. So here is what I did: Drain the anti freeze and remove the battery cables. Working slowly, and using the precautions mentioned above, remove the vacuum lines, some of the wire harness connectors and air intake components. Work your way to the back to the ignition module and then remove the serpentine belt. Make sure that during the whole process you never turn the engine. At around this point I lifted the van onto jack stands. I removed the water pump, alternator and moved the power steering pump out of the way. I unbolted the refrigeration components making sure all lines staid intact. Zip ties become your friend and helping hands. Next come the valve cover gaskets, upper plenum, fuel injector rail and exhaust system. The vehicle needs to be lifted for both removing the exhaust and firewall side spark plugs. (Be very careful when under the vehicle. Make sure it is propped up steadily and the jacks) I used a floor jack pumped up as a backup system. Next I removed the push rods and rockers. For god

pink with green spots

That sounds like a nickel-brass Greek 1 Drachma featuring Konstantinos Kanaris. There were 102 million minted that year and it may be worth about .10 with light wear to maybe .50 if uncirculated. Collector value of a coin depends on date, mint mark (if any), number minted and condition of a coin, including amount of wear, any dents, scratches or cleaning as well as collector demand for it. You might also try a library for a copy of the Standard Catalog of World Coins for pictures, values and lots more interesting info. Brad Swain