Pontiac Firebird

pedal travel is dependent on several things. first,check brake fluid level. then,i would remove the wheels and drums and look at the brake shoes. if they are worn,replace. also ched adjustment of emergency brake. low e brake can cause low pedal and is also an indicator of worn rear shoes. after replacing shoes,orif no worn shoes are found,wheel cylinders may need bleeding. bleed right rear,front left,left rear and right front in that order. do NOT adjust pedal travel at master cylinder since this may cause brake binding due to fluid return restrictions.

if you cant find a routing diagram for the serpentine belt under the hood take a cell phone picture of it so you know how to route it once its off.

Usually you can use a 15mm socket or wrench and relieve the pressure of the tensioner by putting the wrench on the bolt that is at the tensioner wheel and pulling back, to find the tensioner if you don't know what I'm talking about, start the car open the hood and look for something that looks like it is holding the belt tight, usually this tensioner has some slight vibration to it and the wheel is nice and smooth since the back of the belt rests against it, not the grooved side.

27,.569 total production run of all variations, best I can tell

You will need to bring it to a dealership, after market can only program 2000 or newer.

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I don't buy that answer, sorry. I had this problem with the fob for my '96. I actually sent money off to a guy on Ebay who sells the instructions. For what it's worth, they worked!

For my car, the procedure is to pull the carpet away from the driver's side fender inside the trunk. If you find a black box there, it's probably the controller. There is an electrical connector there that has nothing plugged into it. You need to fashion a paper clip or a piece of wire into a U shape so you can shove it into that connector's two chambers and short them.

When you do, you should hear the door locks cycle. While holding your paper clip in place, push and hold any key on the fob until they cycle again. I've had varying luck with the locks cycling the second time, but the procedure seemed to work.

Bad plug wires, there was a recall on the 1998 Firebird 3.8L. GM would only replace each

one as they failed. The check engine light should come on, check with ODB II which should indicate the cylinder or cylinders no. that have bad wires.

Check your battery voltage. It should be reading over 12 volts while cranking. Todays batterys will not even take a jump when they die... Are the battery cables corroded? Check to see if the ground cable is secure to the block

coil packs, bad spark plug, bad spark plug wire... start here... cheapest!

it doesn't have one

That all depends on which engine you have in the 77. If the engine in your 77 is a Pontiac or Olds engine then no, it's not a direct bolt in. You would need an adapter plate and you'd also need to either install a non lock up torque converter or get the stand alone control module. Depending on which trans you are talking about swapping, you may have to change the cross member. The only engine a Chevy transmission will bolt to is another Chevy.....without adapter plates anyway.

2 belts, 1 from the alternator to the water pump pulley and down around the crank pulley and the other belt goes around the water pump and around the crank pulley to the power steering pulley if you have power steering.

Follow the radiator hose to the top of the engine block, right where it meets is a hoseclamp, there should be 2 bolts holding that on, you will have to buy a gasket and a new thermostat, just unbolt the two bolts (make sure the engine is cooled off).

Bob Lutz (vice chairman of GM global product development) says No, only the Camaro will be returning for 2009. My solution Get rid of Lutz!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bring back the firebird!!!

The most common problems are usually vacuum related. Try checking the pcv valve. If that isn't it it could also be something like the idle air controller. This is supposed the regulate air around the throttle plate when it is at idle. Also try running some good injector cleaner through the tank. I like using Sea Foam. I have seen bad spark plugs cause rough idle. It really could be caused by several things. Anyway, I hope this helps.

This is the removal and installation of a rear shock in a Camaro there might be some differences

the miles per gallon would depend on if the car has a v6 engine or a v8 engine...and also if its an automatic transmission or manual transmission..but most of all it would depend on you drive it, weither you take off with your foot to the floor or not..i have an older v6 camaro..automatic...an it averages 18 mpg in town and around 22 to 26 on the highway...depending on how i drive it....an i would assume that a 2000 firebird should get somewhere close to that.

Actually yes it will. Caprice/Impalas from 1977-1996 Share the same basic chassis. It will fit, also how do I know for a fact? I have a 9c1 rear end in my 88 caprice. Also just about any and all Suspension parts from a 91-96 caprice/impala will work with a 77-90 caprice/impala.

However you will now have two different bolt patterns, unless you have a 80's 9c1 police package caprice which I believe did come with the same 5x5 bolt pattern as the 91's caprice/impalas

the required fuel pressure for the 2.8 litre is 34-47 psi

They have to be able to be removed so you can replace them. If you are asking why a spark plug wire would arbitrarily pop off the answer is simple you have case of tinkeritis and you should leave it alone.

The heater fan should be under the passenger side dash.It usually requires taking out six 7 mil or 1/4" screws.Should take about 15 min

There's a pin in the knob on the side facing your dash, under the grip is a double sided pin that looks like a giant staple, remove that and it will come right off!

6 cyl ------------------------> 4* btdc 8 cyl 2brl-------------------> 8* btdc 8 cyl 4brl -----------------> 12* btdc Straight out of my 71 pontiac factory service manual

the gas tank has to come down to replace it.

Heater Core When your heater core goes, you definitely know it. I started to smell antifreeze (which isn't good to begin with), then all of a sudden, my windows fogged up beyond belief. It also started to leak antifreeze inside on the passenger side of the car. I knew right away what it was. Don't try driving the car the windows will be so oily that you wont be able to clean the windows easily and you wont be able to see any of the pretty girls. I started by taking apart the glove compartment which wasn't too bad. Six or eight screws and it was out. The heater core is located in the heating unit which is bolted to the firewall. At first, all I saw was four screws holding this in, so I removed them. Once this is opened up, you can get at the bolts that hold the heating unit on from the engine compartment. You can now also get at both hoses that feed the heater core. I removed the erg value on the manafold to allow me better access to disconnect the heater hose clamps from the engine side. Once all of this is disconnected, you can try to remove the heating unit from inside the car. As you notice, I said "try". It separates from the firewall fairly easy once you remove that small screw from the back located near the engine side. Its that small screw that holds the heater core in place ..you will see it when you look at the firewall from the engine side. Also mounted to the bottoom of the unit is the cables that run the heater. These are of course connected to the heater controls in the dashboard. Now the manual says to disconnect all of the wires, but I found it easier to disconnect only enough to be able and slide the unit out somewhat and then rotate it so that I was able to get at the heater core. The were only a couple of screws that held in the heater core to the main heating unit. Once I got those out, I was able to remove the old core and place the new one in its place. Then it was just a matter of putting everything back in its right place in the reverse order that I took everything apart. This project took me about 1 hour to complete. It was easy , it saved me a lot of money. The garage wanted about $690 to do this job. I bought the parts myself for about $60. Now I can go and pick ups some girls and give them a good ride on my bird.

Not a terribly difficult job, but takes a while to get to. You'll need a power steering pump pulley puller and a combination of metric and standard wrenches, sockets, and a set of vice grips. Parts needed are a water pump and gasket, any additional hoses and hose clamps if you're replacing those, and a new thermostat is you are replacing that (good idea to replace it all since you're already in there, especially if the car has overheated). Parts price list: Water Pump : @ $40 new Throttle body gasket : @$10 Thermostat : a few bucks gasket sealant : a few bucks Replacement hoses and clamps : $20-30 depending on what you replace. New coolant/radiator flush kit : $20 1. Drain the system of coolant using the petcock located at the bottom passenger side of the radiator. 2. Unscrew the air intake assembly from the throttle body and the airbox and remove from car. 3. If you don't plan on replacing the thermostat at the same time, skip this step. The thermostat housing is located directly below the throttle body and is a paint to get to unless you remove the throttle body. Remove the cover to the throttle cable assembly, disconnect the throttle cables (there are two of them), and unscrew the throttle body. Remove any hoses attached to the throttly body and remove it. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the two bolts from the thermostat housing and lift the housing to expose the thermostat. The new thermostat just drops in where the old one went. There is no gasket, as this thermostat utilizes a rubber seal. Reattacht he thermostat housing. 4. Remove the drivebelt. After you have removed the drivebelt, remove the belt tensioner as well as there is abolt behind this that you will need to access. 5. Remove the power steering pump pulley with the puller. Also remove the pulley on the water pump. Since the pulley will turn, it helps if you have an oil filter strap wrench and a friend to keep the pulley immobile while you lossen the bolts. 6. Unplug the spark plugs (taking note of where they go) and unplug the electrical connectors from the coil pack assembly. Remove the bottom coil pack to access a hidden bolt to the power steering pump bracket. 7. Remove the power steering pump bracket. This will come off as one piece with the coil pack assembly attached. 8. Remove the heater core bypass hose that goes to the water pump. 9. Remove the water pump. After you have removed all of the bolts, you may need to persuade the pump by tapping it with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, you can place a block of wood on the pump and hit the block of wood with a hammer. 10. Clean the engine where the water pump will attach of any residue and gasket material. Be sure not to scratch the mating surface here. Carb cleaner and a rag works well for this. 11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Now is also a good time to flush your radiator, replace the hoses with new ones, and also inspect and replace (if necessary) the coolant temperature sensor located directly behind the coil packs. I think that covers just about everything you have to remove. Might have missed an inconsequential item here or there. Make sure everything is plugged back in (coil packs, coolant temp sensor, IAC valve, TPS sensor) and that all hoses are reattached correctly. When you refill the system, let it run for awhile with the radiator cap off and the heat blowing full blast to remove any air bubbles from the system. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.