Pontiac Firebird

the miles per gallon would depend on if the car has a v6 engine or a v8 engine...and also if its an automatic transmission or manual transmission..but most of all it would depend on you drive it, weither you take off with your foot to the floor or not..i have an older v6 camaro..automatic...an it averages 18 mpg in town and around 22 to 26 on the highway...depending on how i drive it....an i would assume that a 2000 firebird should get somewhere close to that.

Actually yes it will. Caprice/Impalas from 1977-1996 Share the same basic chassis. It will fit, also how do I know for a fact? I have a 9c1 rear end in my 88 caprice. Also just about any and all Suspension parts from a 91-96 caprice/impala will work with a 77-90 caprice/impala.

However you will now have two different bolt patterns, unless you have a 80's 9c1 police package caprice which I believe did come with the same 5x5 bolt pattern as the 91's caprice/impalas

the required fuel pressure for the 2.8 litre is 34-47 psi

They have to be able to be removed so you can replace them. If you are asking why a spark plug wire would arbitrarily pop off the answer is simple you have case of tinkeritis and you should leave it alone.

The heater fan should be under the passenger side dash.It usually requires taking out six 7 mil or 1/4" screws.Should take about 15 min

There's a pin in the knob on the side facing your dash, under the grip is a double sided pin that looks like a giant staple, remove that and it will come right off!

6 cyl ------------------------> 4* btdc 8 cyl 2brl-------------------> 8* btdc 8 cyl 4brl -----------------> 12* btdc Straight out of my 71 pontiac factory service manual

the gas tank has to come down to replace it.

Heater Core When your heater core goes, you definitely know it. I started to smell antifreeze (which isn't good to begin with), then all of a sudden, my windows fogged up beyond belief. It also started to leak antifreeze inside on the passenger side of the car. I knew right away what it was. Don't try driving the car the windows will be so oily that you wont be able to clean the windows easily and you wont be able to see any of the pretty girls. I started by taking apart the glove compartment which wasn't too bad. Six or eight screws and it was out. The heater core is located in the heating unit which is bolted to the firewall. At first, all I saw was four screws holding this in, so I removed them. Once this is opened up, you can get at the bolts that hold the heating unit on from the engine compartment. You can now also get at both hoses that feed the heater core. I removed the erg value on the manafold to allow me better access to disconnect the heater hose clamps from the engine side. Once all of this is disconnected, you can try to remove the heating unit from inside the car. As you notice, I said "try". It separates from the firewall fairly easy once you remove that small screw from the back located near the engine side. Its that small screw that holds the heater core in place ..you will see it when you look at the firewall from the engine side. Also mounted to the bottoom of the unit is the cables that run the heater. These are of course connected to the heater controls in the dashboard. Now the manual says to disconnect all of the wires, but I found it easier to disconnect only enough to be able and slide the unit out somewhat and then rotate it so that I was able to get at the heater core. The were only a couple of screws that held in the heater core to the main heating unit. Once I got those out, I was able to remove the old core and place the new one in its place. Then it was just a matter of putting everything back in its right place in the reverse order that I took everything apart. This project took me about 1 hour to complete. It was easy , it saved me a lot of money. The garage wanted about $690 to do this job. I bought the parts myself for about $60. Now I can go and pick ups some girls and give them a good ride on my bird.

Not a terribly difficult job, but takes a while to get to. You'll need a power steering pump pulley puller and a combination of metric and standard wrenches, sockets, and a set of vice grips. Parts needed are a water pump and gasket, any additional hoses and hose clamps if you're replacing those, and a new thermostat is you are replacing that (good idea to replace it all since you're already in there, especially if the car has overheated). Parts price list: Water Pump : @ $40 new Throttle body gasket : @$10 Thermostat : a few bucks gasket sealant : a few bucks Replacement hoses and clamps : $20-30 depending on what you replace. New coolant/radiator flush kit : $20 1. Drain the system of coolant using the petcock located at the bottom passenger side of the radiator. 2. Unscrew the air intake assembly from the throttle body and the airbox and remove from car. 3. If you don't plan on replacing the thermostat at the same time, skip this step. The thermostat housing is located directly below the throttle body and is a paint to get to unless you remove the throttle body. Remove the cover to the throttle cable assembly, disconnect the throttle cables (there are two of them), and unscrew the throttle body. Remove any hoses attached to the throttly body and remove it. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the two bolts from the thermostat housing and lift the housing to expose the thermostat. The new thermostat just drops in where the old one went. There is no gasket, as this thermostat utilizes a rubber seal. Reattacht he thermostat housing. 4. Remove the drivebelt. After you have removed the drivebelt, remove the belt tensioner as well as there is abolt behind this that you will need to access. 5. Remove the power steering pump pulley with the puller. Also remove the pulley on the water pump. Since the pulley will turn, it helps if you have an oil filter strap wrench and a friend to keep the pulley immobile while you lossen the bolts. 6. Unplug the spark plugs (taking note of where they go) and unplug the electrical connectors from the coil pack assembly. Remove the bottom coil pack to access a hidden bolt to the power steering pump bracket. 7. Remove the power steering pump bracket. This will come off as one piece with the coil pack assembly attached. 8. Remove the heater core bypass hose that goes to the water pump. 9. Remove the water pump. After you have removed all of the bolts, you may need to persuade the pump by tapping it with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, you can place a block of wood on the pump and hit the block of wood with a hammer. 10. Clean the engine where the water pump will attach of any residue and gasket material. Be sure not to scratch the mating surface here. Carb cleaner and a rag works well for this. 11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Now is also a good time to flush your radiator, replace the hoses with new ones, and also inspect and replace (if necessary) the coolant temperature sensor located directly behind the coil packs. I think that covers just about everything you have to remove. Might have missed an inconsequential item here or there. Make sure everything is plugged back in (coil packs, coolant temp sensor, IAC valve, TPS sensor) and that all hoses are reattached correctly. When you refill the system, let it run for awhile with the radiator cap off and the heat blowing full blast to remove any air bubbles from the system. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.

take battery cable off its a tempary fix but you have something behind the instrument panel blown

You might have to replace the mass air flow sensor or replace your fuel filter. It sounds as if you arent getting enough gas to your engine. My 98 is doing the same thing. I took it to someone after changing the fuel filter myself and it was the MAF Sensor. This is REALLY simple to replace... and its super easy to get to. Hope this helped

There important because they can sped up the production process, make repairs easy, and allowed the the use of lower paid an less skiled workers.

wire yourself a toggle switch between the battery and fan and run into passenger compartment

Yes. Back then just about any engine/tranny combination was available. Either by the factory or even special order.

yes. the last year of any Pontiac v8 was the 301 in 81. the standard engine in the 82 and up firebirds was the corporate engine-the Chevy 305

The temp sensor is either (depending on the year) is on the intake manifold beside the thermostat housing or on the drivers side head between #1 and #3 spark plugs also the oil pressure switch is beside the distributor.

the oil pressure switch is not always behind the distributor, it depends on if its a small or big block. if its not behind the distributor its on the driver side of the block in the lower right hand corner between the header and the oil filter.

The cable is manual drive on a 1991.It plugs directly in the back of the speedometer.

Dsiconnect Drive shaft Disconnect brake lines Support rear axle housing Disconnect shock absorbers Disconnect "U" Bolts if leaf springs Lower axle housing

The starter is located between the engine and transmission on the passenger side just above the exhuast pipe next to the oil pan.

if its an automatic trans, look for an electric plug that plugs into the transmission...disconnect the plug,and see if that cures it...it sounds like your lockup torque converter is not working correctly. if unplugging it works okay, you can drive it without damage but check your gas mileage.....it may lower your mileage 1-2 mpg.. as for fixing it, it requires removing the trans from the car, and isn't simple. but, if you can remove it, and take to a rebuilder, you can save a lot of money.

There were two firebirds used: a 77 and 78. The 78 was a gold SE replicated to match the original 77.

It was offered part way through the '67 selling season a "Dealer installed" option for GTOs. Not sure if they were offered for Firebirds. I would think so. There is a "Firebird only" Verdoro Green colored '67 GTO.

If I understand correctly what you are asking.....The 1993 Camaro (Z28) had an LT1 engine, but used the non-electric version 4L60. The 4L60E was not used until 1994.