Pontiac Transport

You can find a wiring diagram that shows you how to hook up a trailer wiring harness on a 1998 Pontiac Transport at most auto parts stores. A Pontiac repair manual should have the diagram in it.

The firing order for the 1997 Pontiac Transport is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. This is for the 3.4 Liter engine.

Where is the vehicle speed sensor pick up located in a 1994 Pontiac Trans Port?

Hi,I asked the same question for my 3.8 liters Pontiac Transport 1994, and was told at the concessionnary garage that there is no PCV valve to replace on my engine....that answer from the garage manager and parts dept. people.Pacman

On the left hand side of the oil filter. Remove wire harness then place a deep 15 mm socket over sensor and remove. Installation is the reverse.

DARKSEID007

My Advice: The best thing to do is to tighten the sparkplugs down with a ratchet and socket till it is just tight enough to not turn by your fingers. (SNUG if you will technical terms) then you take the ratchet and turn it 1/4 of a turn and it will tighten it enough without overtightening or stripping the threads out of the motor. 1/4 means if u have the ratchet end at a 12 o' clock position turn it till the end of the ratchet goes around to the 3 o' clock position. Hope this helps.

Sometimes a county corrections officer may drive the sheriff's transport van and in some cases it may be a police officer.

the cam sensor is under the power steering pump .So It is bolted directly to the crankcase.

well this is not the cause but the cure turn the ignition with key inserted half way then back then start the van, " no oil light" why i do not not drove from Ohio to Florida still driven it's an annoyonce if anything to me. someone said it might be the oil sending unit it's a sensor?

The easiest way to do this is to locate the top radiater hose follow it back to the motor,where the hose hooks up to the motor is where the thermostat is located. There are 2 bolts they are either 1/2" or 9/16. 1)Unscrew bolts to take off thermostat housing. 2)Pull housing off, you will then see thermostat,(there will be a gasket) 3)Remove old gasket around the thermostat and the thermostat housing,using a wire brush,(the reason for old gasket removal so it will not leak. 4)Put new thermostat in pointy side up. 5)Put the gasket that you recived w/thermostat on the housing. 6)Put the bolts back through the housing and the gasket. 7)Carefully place housing, bolts and gasket over the thermostat. 8)Make sure gasket is in place and tighten the bolts finger tight. 9)Then just go ahead and tighten the bolts the rest of the way w/socket or wrench. *NOTE-becareful taking off thermostat housing you will loose some antifreeze. Then thermostat is on the back of the engine which is the end opposite to the end with the pulleys and (1)belt. It is attached to the intake manifold, and its housing has the top radiator hose attached to it. You need to remove the rubber engine air intake duct which also includes the MAP and VAP sensor's housing, and those in turn are attached to the aircleaner housing and the thottlebody. You need to drain the radiator, so that its coolant level is below the level of the thermostat. Begin; Remove the hose from the overflow tank, then remove the overflow tank itself. remove the radaitor cap and drain rad. The drain plug is a while nylon fitting that ideally takes a special tool, but I have losened it with pliers. you can check the level of the coolant by looking inside the rad. Disconnect wire connectors and small hoses that connect to MAP and VAP sensor housing. Loosen the clamps on the rubber air duct, and remove that assembly from the aircleaner housing and the throttle housing. Remove the top rad hose from the thermostat housig and tie it back out of you way. It is recommended that you remove the exhaust crossover pipe, but I find that you don't need to. It is a little more difficult to get at the bolts, but you don't have to be conserned with the extra time it takes. Remove the two bolts that hold the housing in place, then you may have to tap on the housing to break it loose. Pull the thermostat and its gasket out of the hole in the engine, and clean up any scale that may be there. Put the gasket on the new thermostat, and hold the thermostat housing against the engine while you put the bolts in. It is critical to make sure that the housing sits flat against the engine while tightening the bolts, because people have actually broken the housing. Rreplace the top rad hose, close off the rad drain, and refill the rad while allowing the coolant to settle, and then top it up again. Reconnect the entire airduct assembly, with its hoses and wires, Start the engine and let it run for a minute or so the shut it off again before the coolant rizes up in the rad. Stop the engine and you should see that the coolant is now lower then when before you started the engine. Top up the coolant again, replace the rad cap and start the engine again. Replace the overflow tank and its hose that goes to rad cap. Fill the coolant overflow tank about half full. Begin checking for possible leaks, while the engine warm up to operating temperature. Shut off the engine and let it cool down, while watching to make sure that the coolant doesn't drain out of the tank completely. When the engine is cool, you can add enough coolant to the tank to get its level to the proper level.

First remove the screws/bolts that hold the windshield washer reservoir, then reposition the reservoir out of your way. Loosen the screws/bolts that secure the metal brace that is above the battery. Swing brace out of the way, so that you can have easy access to remove/replace battery. Once battery is replaced, replace brace and the washer reservoir.

Remove the flip down mirrors, the dome light, and the plastic moldings around the door (If you want to be able to reuse it). Then simply pull carefully it is hooked by corkboard and glue strips. Once its out you can carefully remove it through either door for reuse or simply fold it in half. All pieces removed will go back in without a new headliner for common use until you get one.

Yes, it can. It measures the engine oil pressure and if it fails, the pressure can come through it losing oil.

you do not have any anitfreeze in your radiator or it is low if that does not fix it then you might need a new thermostat which you can get at your local Napa Autoparts store

OK you have come to the right guy, I just spent the last 2 days on this (for the 2nd time). This is for a 1994 Pontiac Transport Minivan 3.8L engine. First time cable broke I created a small hook in a clothes hanger to snag the cable. This was pretty easy. With hook down and hanger slightly bent downward, snag the cable that's left attached to the hood release by slipping from the front between the hood and the top of the latch, a little right of center and approx. 7 1/2" back. Pull the remaining cable through to the front and you should be able to open hood by pulling hard. Now, the second way, which sucks, because the mechanic who replaced the cable is a moron. If the cable becomes detached you have no choice but to pop the latch. It is done from underneath and you need room. First, remove or bend back, the plastic protective covering under the van the length of the radiator. Next, remove the 2 screws, top & bottom, that hold the radiator fan to the center support, loosen wiring and allow fan to hang as low as possible so you can get your right hand up to the safety latch at the top of the center support. Next, take a long, slender screwdriver and slip the end in next to the safety latch arm above the center post, coming in from the passenger side and angle towards the front of the vehicle at approx. 30 degree upward angle. It may take a few times but you will be able to press the latch and the hood will release. Other articles I have read about removing the grille or taking out the front bolts do not apply to this vehicle, trust me. That hole at the top of the center support where the safety latch comes through is the only access I see where the latch is accessible. Remember to push latch towards the driver side to release.

Check under plastic panel just forward of wipers with hood open. Should say relay center or something like that. A couple of clips and a wing nut to remove cover if I remember correctly.

I have a 98 wrangler and am having same problem. I was told by service mgr. at the dealer that it is probably the wiper motor. To buy just the part which now includes a transmission costs just abit over $300 from the dealer. Although they told me rebuilts are available for about $100. Hope this helps.

Open the drain valve on the side of the engine block.

20-18 US gallons. Opinions vary greatly. I hear 18 allot. But mine takes more that 18 at fill up.

It could be the thermostat. Open up the radiator cap when it is hot and see if the water is flowing in the radiator. If it is not then it may be a thermostat.

According to the owner's manual, which you may find at this link, https://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2content/manual/US/en/pontiac/1995transsport.pdf , the fuel tank's capacity is 20 US gallons or 76 liters. However, it should be noted that any motor vehicle's fuel tank capacity is dependent on the manufacturer of the gas tank, which may not be under the strict control of the car manufacturer. In other words, the actual capacity might be a little more or a little less. As such, don't be surprised that when you fill-up with the needle at 'E' (empty) that it doesn't take that many gallons, as the gas gauge is purposely designed to give you adequate low fuel warning (i.e., "reserve" tanks or capacities are a misconception).

look on the sticker on driver door most pop size 205/65/15

There are FOUR What engine LT1? There should be one in each pipe before the cats and one after each on the V8! The two upstream moniter the engine and the downstreams moniter the efficiency of the catalytic coverter They MUST be replaced in pairs or the computer will say there is still a problem Oh yeah They are expensive $60 - $100 each Make sure the sensor is really the problem before replacing