Pontiac Transport

You will have to drop the fuel tank & quicker if you have two people to work on it. It doesn't take long if you stay on it til finish. It is best to start after you have run the tank to E so it won't be as heavy when u drop the tank. Disconnect both fuel lines from the Fuel-Sender-Unit (A metal pipe/lid/pump-holder that is on top of the tank. If the FSU is rusty the "quick-disconnection fitting will not come off (don't force them), then simply disconnect at the Fuel filter (about 2 feet away) and unclip the lines from the underbody. Unhook the wiring, Fill hose, and vent hose. Prop the tank up with scrap lumber and then remove the 4 bolts holding the tank. Remove the wood to lower the tank and drag it out from under the the transport. The tank is Plastic just like most modern gas cans. The FSU and its locking plate are not. Its a rotating lock, (use WD40 if necessary) and lift out the FSU. The pump will be sitting in the FSU, unplug it, and you can wiggle it off. Drain tank fully, add new pump to FSU, and reinstall into car in reverse.

throttle sensor for a 92 pontiac transport

Generally speaking, " no it can't be removed from the top ", but that is not taking into account if one would be willing to go to the extra work in disconnecting the whole assembly from the sub frame that is meant to be dropped out the bottom. The sub frame won't come through the top The recommended bottom removal is done so that one would be able to do most of the disassembly while it is sitting out in the open with out the having to work within such tight quarters while it is in the body. The entire assembly including the sub frame, engine and transaxle are held in the body by only four bolts more then what it takes to unhook the things that have to be removed whether or not it comes out the top or bottom. So if one has a way of safely raising the front of the body up high enough to clear the entire assembly while you pull it out the front, it is actually better to not even consider taking it out the top.

first suggestion would be the head gasket which Montana's are notorious for having problems with, followed closely by a crack in your cylinder head or engine block

None

Should be under the glove blox. There a fuse panel there too! You should see the Falsher.(Silver Round).

fuse box is on the right side of dash board open the front pessenger side door you will find there

The coolant sensor is in the overflow tank, make sure it is full to the cold line. If it still stays on the level sensor might need replacing

no it doesn't it has a timing chain

The low side ac port on a 98 Pontiac Transport should be on the side of the drier. The drier should be mounted on the passenger side near the radiator.

It is located alittle above the oild filter on the right hand side. it is mounted to the oil filter housing.. IT is allitle tough to get to but other than that it isn't to difficult to change. Took me about 45 minutes but i changed the oil at the same time

there are three coils located on top of the engine right at the fire wall, bolted to the ignition module

ordinary run of the mill good quality power steering fluid oil depends on the temperature above 0 degreesF 10-W-30 is recommended below 0 degreesF 5-W-30 is recommended should change your oil every 5000 km or 3 months anyway

The fuse block is located on the right side of the IP, in the right front door opening It would depend on the year. The Main Fuse block in a 93' is in the Glove Box, and the Big fuses + relays +control modules are behind the black panel below the Glove Box by the passengers feet.

under panel below steering wheel. remove plastic cover then its right behind left edge of metal panel.

It is possible for the check engine light to come on in a Pontiac Transport when using ethanol gasoline because it burns hotter than other gasoline. The check engine light might also come on if the oxygen sensor is bad.

On 1990 through 1995 General Motors 3.8 L engines, the crankshaft positioning sensor was located under the harmonic balancer on the left side of the engine.

The harmonic balancer is attached to the main crankshaft and must be removed through an access hole located in the right passenger wheel well. Remove the right front passenger tire after jacking up in stabilizing the vehicle. Inside the wheel well is a small plastic panel that can be removed to access the harmonic balancer mounting bolt. Remove this bolt from harmonic balancer. Using a small wheel puller on the harmonic balancer, gently tap and tighten the wheel puller to remove the harmonic balancer itself. Caution -- be very careful while doing this! The harmonic balancer has a soft aluminum rings attached to it that can easily be bent during the removal process. If they are bent, they will not work properly and will damage the crankshaft positioning sensor! Once the harmonic balancer is removed the crankshaft positioning sensor and wiring is exposed for replacement. Follow the wires leading out of the crankshaft positioning sensor to the electrical wiring coupling. Uncouple this union to disconnect the electrical wires of the crankshaft positioning sensor. Carefully clean the area around the old sensor while still mounted on the vehicle. He is a permanent magic marker and carefully outline for Mark the position of the harmonic balancer before removal. This Is Very Important! If the new crankshaft positioning sensor is not in the precise position as the old one removed, it can cause a no pulse situation to the mission module, which produces the sparkplug timing and firing to the sparkplugs. Crankshaft positioning sensor is held on to the engine by two bolts. Carefully remove these two bolts and the old sensor. Clean the area behind the old sensor with steel wool to make a clean surface for the new sensor mounting. But the new crankshaft positioning sensor in place were the old sensor was removed, follow closely the marks made earlier to position the new sensor at the right location. Mount the new sensor with the two bolts that were removed. Attach the electrical wires from the new sensor following the same path as the old wires on the sensor removed and reattach the electrical coupling to the wiring harness. Carefully replace the harmonic balancer back in place on the crankshaft. Do Not Force the harmonic balancer if you feel any resistance! The circular aluminum fins attached to the harmonic balancer may be pressing against the crankshaft positioning sensor if the crankshaft positioning sensor is not aligned correctly. If you feel any resistance from the harmonic balancer you'll have to climb into the engine area and carefully check to see if the new crankshaft position sensor is in the right location to allow the aluminum fins on the harmonic balancer to fit between slots on the new crankshaft positioning sensor. If the slots do not accept the fins on the harmonic balancer, slightly loosen the two mounting bolts for the sensor and reposition it where you can clearly see that the slots will accept the aluminum fins on the harmonic balancer. Once you have done this, lightly slide the harmonic balancer back into place and check again at the aluminum fins fit cleanly into the slots of the new crankshaft positioning sensor. With the sparkplugs removed, it is possible to rotate the crankshaft and harmonic balancer clockwise to ensure the aluminum fins pass cleanly through the slots of the crankshaft positioning sensor. Once you have verified this, re-tighten but not over tighten, the mounting bolts on the crankshaft positioning sensor. Reinstall the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft and replaced the bolt that holds it to the crankshaft. Be sure to tighten this bolt securely. Again and rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand very slowly. Listen and feel for any resistance at the harmonic balancer to this turning. If you hear any, remove the balancer and check the crankshaft positioning sensor alignment again. If no resistances felt, the job to be done. Using a cheap spark detection tool, available at most part stores, you can have someone cranked the engine and check for spark plugs. If you have installed the new crankshaft positioning sensor correctly, have it aligned correctly so that the aluminum fins on the harmonic balancer ride smoothly through the slots, you should see spark now at the plugs. This is assuming of course all of the components, the ignition module, the coil packs, and electoral connections are in good working order. When the engine is running and the harmonic balancer rotating on the crankshaft with the aluminum fins sliding through the crankshaft positioning sensor, this provides electrical control pulse to the ignition module, that tells it where the crankshaft position is and regulates when the spark to each plug is released. In this Distributorless design, the crankshaft positioning sensor is a simple Hall Effect switch. While not very complex, it is an integral part of the Distributorless SPARC system for the vehicle and often is suspect to failure. The failure of the crankshaft positioning sensor causes a no spark situation at the plug and the engine just stops running. This can happen at any time. Meaning, you can be driving along, the engine is running fine and then it just suddenly quits! After a short period of time, you can suddenly restart the engine and it runs fine again. This condition generally is caused by the crankshaft positioning sensor overheating and stops producing the needed control pulse to the ignition module which controls the spark at the plugs. Many mechanics misdiagnosis this problem when the vehicle is brought in. 1990 to 1993 onboard computers do not have a trouble code for a bad crankshaft positioning sensor. 1994 and up vehicles have a different onboard computer, called OBT2, and a trouble code for this condition. An intermittent crankshaft positioning sensor can also cause erratic engine operation, from rough idling and power loss, to poor gas mileage. As a general rule, if your vehicle as the 80,000 to 125,000 miles on it, it is a good preventative measure to replace the crankshaft positioning sensor, even if you are experiencing no problems with it. The crankshaft positioning sensor only costs about $35 at most part stores but because of its critical role, it is a part not be ignored in preventative maintenance. I hope this helps some people resolve a serious condition I call The Sudden Stop Syndrome. Otherwise, a 3.8 L V-6 engine has been a fairly reliable engine for General Motors. If you have any questions, be sure your vehicle is serviced by a competent mechanic. C.08 - DERICKUSA1

remove wheel, caliper,brakes,rotor. unplug abs connector and unbolt hub. install is reverse.

The 1995 Pontiac 3.1 liter engine recommended fuel pressure is 17 pounds per square inch. The fuel pressure can vary a pound or two, and still be acceptable.

I have a 6 cylinder 3.1 96 Chevy Lumina and it gets 20 mpg. The way to figure you mpg, fill your tank, record how many miles you drive till its very close to empty, then take the miles number and divide it by how many gallons your car holds. Usually 16.5 gallons. Good luck.

just did this last week, took a total of 1 3/4 hours.

Take a prybar and slide it between the idler pulley and the closest bolt or extrusion that will act as a fulcrum. Push the bar against the tensioner to gain slack. Install in the same manner....MT

You can't! (What I hear and learn) If you are a little bit 'mechanic savy' You have a limited capability to manually rotate the electif motor (need removing seat) to get a specific position, but... not a solution. Good news maybe; if NONE of the axis at all are able to be controlled, think of an electrical problem, maybe a fuse? I don't think that the 3 motors would blow up simultaneously.