Subaru Legacy

few rads have a drain tap. undo the lower rad hose and drain into a bucket. or juat take the hose off at the thermostat housing. either way makes a mess. have plenty of newspaper handy

this is general information on how to not specific to your vehicle. take off all of the handles, ie. door hand, pull handle. remove the panal by using the proper tool, place the tool behind the panel lift just enough to see where the attachments are. those are made of plastic, use the tool to pry up the holders. go slow be careful. they may break. The tool can be found at most parts stores. they are not expensive. the stores usually have the holders as well. Don't use a screw driver. More than likely you will break the holders, and may do other damage. the specific tool has a "V" shaped notch. hope it helps. duboff

Previous writer wrote that "t is just not the vehicle for the job". Without clarification we can not be sure what they meant. Is the 2.5 l engine capable of pulling a trailer, yes. Can you find a hitch mount for the car, yes. Can you find a wiring harness for the car, yes, again. Hopkins Mfg recommends either Kit 46255 or 46365 will work great for this application They don't have a Plug-In Simple harness for the Subaru Outback Wagon. It has to be hard wired in. In the defense of the engine, many cars of similar size or smaller haul trailers in Europe. Even Fords and GM/Opals. Size does not matter, just keep the speed reasonable and take care.

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You may not find one. The subarus generally do not come with a "towing package"per say.It is just not the vehicle for the job. Unless you intend to tow a matchbox car, then you could just use the glovebox.Make sure to put the "towee"into a ziplock baggie,in case the mice decide to get in there, which they often do. Mice love to shred paper,and that is where most people keep their registrations and insurance papers.Sometimes a dirty napkin or two,from Wendy's of MickyD's.

I found this answer on another site. By the way, 2005 Outbacks DO come with a trailer hitch option!

"Yes, I found it. I would have given up were it not for Mr. Crowell's assurance that it was there. I'll try to describe the procedure I used to pinpoint and access it:

- remove the access panel on the driver's side and set aside

- note that the power point and the rubber plug below it are closed off from the small storage pocket

- remove the rubber plug (about1.25" dia)that is just below the power point

- raise the center panel that covers the spare tire

- remove the floor panel on the driver's side. Just pull it straight up. Notice that it is held by two pull-out fasteners toward the front of the panel.

- at this point, I borrowed a borescope from my mechanical inspection group. I inserted it in the hole below the power point. Eureka - I finally could see the connector laying on the bottom at the rear of the compartment. The connector was pointed to the rear of the vehicle at the end of its wire harness.

- I made a small hook from a clothes hanger. Inserting it through the rearmost slot (where the access panel attaches)near the floor, I grabbed the wire bundle just behind the connector and raised it from the bottom of the compartment.

- I then inserted the hook through the hole, grabbed the harness, and pulled it up enough to grab it with my fingers.

- I pulled the connnector out of the hole and secured it with a piece of twine to keep it from falling back in.

Good luck!

I found that this helped me on where the connector might be hiding - thank you very much -)

However I have a 2004 Outback H4 Wagon AWV (All Weather - I did not mistype -). I had to pull up the right side floor panel and remove the foam panel then remove the two plastic screw caps that hold the insulation in place, remove the insulation to reveal the wire harness in the opening. The plug was taped to the main harness bundle to hold it up and toward the front of the opening. Then all I had to do was replace all the stuff on both sides, because I sarted on the left -)

Enjoy!

Subaru outbacks are a very good choice for towing up to 3000 pounds as noted by this link http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/102426/article.html I tow a two place snowmobile several times a year about 2000 miles total with no problem

The only answer that has an meaning at all comes from the person willing to do the work. Realistically, "fix transmission linkage" gives nothing to work with anyway since no one could know from your description what needs to be done. Could be a quick adjustment and for $10 you're out the door. Others have a minimum charge so you may pay for an hour at current shop rate for that quick adjustment. What is current shop rate? Could be $35, could be $150. Of course the whole linkage could need to be replaced then you may need to pay for the parts and several hours' shop time. You see the problem with trying to answer a question like this. Call a mechanic or your Subaru dealer, but don't be hopeful for a phone quote for "fix transmission linkage".

The 2007 Subaru Legacy runs on regular unleaded.

The 2013 Subaru Legacy has 43.0 in. of front leg room.

"Kelly blue book value on a used 2009 Subary Legacy is $19,300-$28,600 based on the condition and options of the vehicle. A brand new 2011 Legacy is $22,720-$31,040 so you can save approximately three thousand even if you go just two years old. The older the used Legacy, the more money you will save."

Since this procedure involves removing the brake drum, you may wish to consider wearing a face mask of some sort to avoid breathing in brake dust which is none too good for you! You should also buy a spray can of brake cleaner at a local hardware or auto parts store.

Chock the front wheels to prevent the car moving.

Release the hand brake and select neutral.

Jack up a rear corner or whole rear end of the car and place secure supports such as axles stands underneath. Remove the road wheel in the usual manner.

The brake drum is exposed and theoretically will just pull off - there are no other fixings! In practise, it is often tricky to remove since the brake shoes may bind a little. Try wiggling it rather than banging it. Certainly don't use any hammering other than gentle taps with a rubber-faced hammer. The brake drum is made of cast iron and can easily be cracked.

On some models, there are two threaded holes in the drum roughly concentric with the wheel studs. These are designed specifically to help drum removal - you just find two bolts (8mm) or screws to screw into these holes and they push against the hub. Since this is the same size bolt used to remove the front brake rotor, you may want to buy a pair, label them and set them aside for brake work. Again, take care not to crack the drum. Only very light torque should be applied to these screws. Alternate between the two screws for best results.

If no success, then look behind the brake assembly so that you are looking at the back plate which the brake cylinder is mounted on. On some models, there is a little cover which can be removed to expose an adjuster. Turn the adjuster with the end of a small screwdriver in a kind of ratchet action. This will loosen the brake shoes away from the drum provided you move it in the right direction. So if it tightens, try the other direction! Remember to replace the cover afterwards. Now the drum should come away and you can inspect the shoes for wear. The lining thickness starts at a nominal 4.1mm (0.161 inches) and the lower limit for service is 1.5mm (0.059 inches).

It's a good idea to clean out all the brake dust (you are wearing that face mask, aren't you). It's best to use a spray can of brake cleaner, spraying all parts of the brakes, including the inside of the drum. That old vacuum cleaner that you kept when you bought a new one can be used for this job, making sure the exhaust is pointed outside away from you. Also check that the hand-brake and adjuster mechanisms are operating freely. Finally give a good look at the brake cylinder to check for any signs of leakage of brake fluid. If the outer dust seals are cracked, it's worth buying new ones provided that the pistons are still moving freely and there is no leak. The new seals will prevent you having to replace the entire cylinders so soon.

Finally, check the interior of the drums. There should not be any serious scoring. If you have a good internal caliper guage then measure the internal diameter of the drum on the wear surfaces. The high limit for service is 230.6mm (9.08 inches). Since it started life at 228.6mm (9 inches), not a lot of wear is permitted. Check in several places in case there is ovality (which can sometimes be detected by slight jerkiness when braking very gently at very low speeds on a smooth surface or by some types of brake judder).

IMPORTANT

When you have replaced the drum and wheel, operate the handbrake repeatedly to activate the auto adjustment. Keep doing it until no further change is detected in the position that the handbrake comes up to. This may be only one or two pulls if you didn't have to adjust anything when removing the drum to many tens of pulls if you backed off the whole adjuster (which you have to do if you fit new shoes, for instance.)

Test the service brake (foot brake) for the first time whilst the car is stationary with the engine running. Make sure there is the normal "feel" to the pedal. In other words, that it comes up firm and well off the floor! If not, don't drive until you have found the problem.

Finally, make a cautious test drive well way from traffic and other hazards if you can. This answer was written using UK terminology. Apologies if this causes any confusion for US readers!

If you are trying to replace the rear hatch lift shocks-struts on something like my 1999 Forester, then you have two options. 1) Get replacement struts from the dealer for $65+ per shock; or 2) Get Similar size generic shocks that require a slight modification, such as a Mighty Lift! 95224 found at any automotive store for a little over $20. As you might have noticed, the hatch shocks are permanently attached to their mounting brackets, which makes them require unique shocks...... normally.

I opted for a slight modification that allows generic replacement shocks.

Here's what you need:

1. Mighty Lift! 95224 replacement gas strut with mounting hardware. I got mine from O'Reilly's

2. #10 1.0 thread nut for the new bolts

3. drill

4. 5/16inch drill bit, and possibly a 1/4"

5. Sockets and wrenches

Here is what I did.

1. Push the rear hatch up as far as it can go and prop it up with something. I happened to have a ski pole that was the exact length. Make sure it is as far as it can go so that when you remove the bolts the shocks don't spring into your face.

2. With a socket or screwdriver, remove the two bolts holding each shock mount to the hatch. I used a socket for this. With a wrench, remove the lower universal-type bolt attached to the body.

3. Clamp the old mounting bracket (from the top of the hatch) down so it can't move. Drill out the back of the rivet that permanently attached the shock to the mounting bracket. I drilled out the hole with a 1/4inch bit to release the bracket and then widened the hole for the new bolt with a 5/16inch bit. Each hole took about 1 minute a piece to drill.

4. The new strut should come with a little packet of mounting hardware, including two universal-ball-ended bolts and two washers. Place the new universal-ball-ended bolt through the drilled hole (ball end towards the original mounting bolts) along with a washer. Tighten it down to the old mounting bracket with your #10 nut.

5. Attach the old mounting brackets (with new attachment) to the hatch.

6. Screw in the two remaining universal-ball-ended bolts onto the body.

7. The new shock should clip right into the new ball joints.

NOTE:

This will shorten the maximum height of the lifted hatch by about 2-3 inches. That means that you can't just replace one shock or you will have unequal lift pressures. The whole process took me 20-30 minutes.

First make sure that service brakes are adjusted properly Adjustment should be either at the junction of the cables under vehicle or at the handle itself (may have to remove trim for access) Set brake handle to 3 clicks - vehicle should hold at that position

tighten adjusting nut

you turn on the car

put the parking break on

open the door

slam in shut with the lock on(you dont need tpo slam)

open it up and on the keypad by the handle

type in a password and click your key car finder thing

The 1994 Subaru Legacy was designed to run on regular unleaded gasoline.

It cannot use diesel fuel or biodiesel fuel in its engine !!

The most available alternative fuel in the US for gasoline is ethanol. This engine should easily tolerate ethanol up to a 10% ethanol/90% gasoline blend. You should be careful about using ethanol in high concentrations because it can be corrosive to some engine parts. Therefore, you should not use high ethanol content blends (like E85) unless you engine is designed for it. Another reason not to use ethanol in high concentrations is that it contains less power per gallon than the gasoline that it replaces. Using it in high concentrations will substantially reduce the performance of your car. In the future, you may be able to use butanol as a substitute for gasoline. It has several advantages over ethanol such as...

- Almost the same power content as the gasoline it replaces.

- Not corrosive.

Unfortunately, ethanol wins hands down when it comes to which one is cheaper to make. Butanol is currently more expensive than the gasoline it replaces. That may not remain the case much longer. Look for technological advances in producing butanol that should reduce its price to be competitive with ethanol.

You read the trouble codes on the dsahboard "engine check" light. To get the codes out you connect two black, single wire connectors under the dash near the steering column while the ignition is turned off, then turn the key on and the light should flash a code. More information can be found at... http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ .

You have not provided enough information for me to know what you are asking.

The spark plug gap for a 1995 Subaru Legacy is .044"

The Intel 8051 is an 8-bit microcontroller which means that most available operations are limited to 8 bits. There are 3 basic "sizes" of the 8051: Short, Standard, and Extended. The Short and Standard chips are often available in DIP form, but the Extended 8051 models often have a different form factor, and are not "drop-in compatable". All these things are called 8051 because they can all be programmed using 8051 assembly language, and they all share certain features (although the different models all have their own special features). Some of the features that have made the 8051 popular are: * 8-bit data bus * 16-bit address bus * 32 general purpose registers each of 8 bits * 16 bit timers (usually 2, but may have more, or less). * 3 internal and 2 external interrupts. * Bit as well as byte addressable RAM area of 16 bytes. * Four 8-bit ports, (short models have two 8-bit ports). * 16-bit program counter and data pointer 8051 models may also have a number of special, model-specific features, such as UARTs, ADC, OpAmps, etc...

I just love this kind of question.............

The car will hold about the same amount of oil as you get out of it. Many factors determine how completely the oil flows out when drained. The drain plug is at the back of the pan, so naturally more oil drains out in a slight "nose up" attitude, oil temperature determines on how much oil comes out, the hotter the oil, the easier it flows out.

Generally, with a filter change, you would install 3 and 3/4 liters of oil after a drain, you would then start your car up, and run it until the oil light goes out, let it sit a minute, then check the dipstick, and add as necessary.

Turbo cars hold usually an extra liter, but the above instructions will work for you.

-----------^"Raveeen's answer is rediculous.

You should check the owners manual for the oil capacity, the 1990 subaru legacy 2.2 will hold 4.5 quarts of oil. I do not recommend putting as much in as you get out as the previous/above poster stated because if you car burns/leaks oil (which older subarus tend to do) then you will end up starving the engine of oil which would be detrimental. And to say turbo cars hold usually an extra liter is not sufficient. You should always check the owners manual or another reliable source. If you have questions, dont rely on the internet (even this post). Check for yourself, call the dealership or order a legitimate owners manual.

Turn the steering wheel back and forth if that doesn't work try that screw under the steering column

probs a mechanical problem

On a 1996 Subaru Legacy, the starter relay is located under the head in the relay box. The relay box is located on the driver side at the rear of the engine.

This has been answered here before. Foresters have always been made in the sam factory in Japan. Accorting to www.cars101.com: "The Subaru Forester is an all-wheel-drive car-based SUV introduced in 1998. Made by Fuji Heavy Industries in Ota, Japan." Assuming that you ask for the same reason that I asked, yes, I too want to give preference to American made vehicles, but the definition of that is muddy at best. I used to work for a supplier that made components that are most likely in whatever you drive. Increasingly we shipped out of the country for asembly. Automobiles of any brand are truly globally sourced. As a consumer I want the best that I can get for my money, especially when purchasing the second most expensive thing that I own. My 2000 Forester has been a good not great vehicle, but better than my friends' domestic nameplate cars of similar vintage. It is a choice that only you can make, but make it for the right reasons. Good luck with whatever you buy. --Ken

Assuming that you are asking about installing an after-market audio amplifier to boost the sound coming from the factory radio in your Forester, this is still too broad in scope to give a meaningful answer here. Contact www.crutchfield.com. These people are experts in car audio. --Ken

did this just last month. CHECK the build date of the car (on tag that resides on the pillar between the doors, there are 3 possible water pumps, you gotta get this one right), get, or make sure you have the right pump. Remove rad fan(s), trying not to break the mounting bolts, take out the radiator and the accessory belts, remove the crank pulley (on installation this must be torqued to 80ft/lbs, or it will loosen) remove the timing belt cover(s), and the timing belt so you are just staring at the front of the engine. The pump is at the bottom right of all this mess if you are standing at the front bumper looking in. Remove all the hoses attached to the water pump, carefully inspecting them, you want to replace them (if needed) NOW, they are a witch later. Remove the water pump bolts noting their location, there are 3 different lengths, replace it being careful, the block will strip BEFORE you break a bolt, you don't want to go there. Put everything back together, replace the timing belt, being careful to get the timing right. The belt adjuster should be SLOWLY compressed in a hydraulic press, too fast and you will be buying a new one (I have used a hydraulic floor jack and a parked truck to do this if no press is available) use a finishing nail, or small Allen key to hold the adjuster in a compressed position (through the holes). Mount the adjuster, double check the timing belt position before and after releasing the adjuster, sometimes this takes a couple of tries, don't be ashamed, it is a bi*ch. Carry on replacing all you took off. Sometimes refilling the cooling system can be a problem, it seems that some cars tend to air lock, I filled mine slowly and ran it with the cap off until the thermostat opened, topping it up afterward. Go for a drive checking the coolant level frequently for about the next week. This "fun" little job is probably best done on a set of ramps.

A repair manual

Crawl under your car on the front drivers side. Follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the motor. The thing that the hose is clamped to is the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing bolts to the bottom of the water pump. The water pump is driven by the timing belt.