Subaru Legacy

Crawl under your car on the front drivers side. Follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the motor. The thing that the hose is clamped to is the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing bolts to the bottom of the water pump. The water pump is driven by the timing belt.

Could be many things - but if everything was normal until it just didn't start. Engine cranks but doesn't fire? I suspect it could be the fuel pump. It is what happened to me. In my 1992 waggon you have to remove the back seat as it is a submersible pump fitted directly into the tank. A pretty easy job but be careful as you are mucking around with an explosive end of the car :)

There are a number of possible reasons for the noise described. Far and away the most likely cause is that it is being generated by a worn constant velocity joint. This vehicle is a front wheel drive. And the front wheels have to turn to steer the car. So power has to be delivered to the wheels via a flexible drive shaft. That flexible drive shaft is the CV or constant velocity joint. CV joints need to be properly lubricated and need to be sealed, and when the car is put together, the CVs are packed with grease and a closed boot is used to seal in the grease and seal out dirt. If the boot fails, if it cracks or gets torn, nothing happens right away. But after time, the lubrication thins and dirt enters, and the combination acts to wear the joint out. Then the noise begins. The only solution to shutting the thing up at this point is to replace the CV. A worn CV will still work; the car can still be driven safely for a while. But the CV is worn and will eventually have to be replaced. There is a way to test the car to see if the CV is, in fact, making the noise. Get in and drive the car (safely) into a turn and push in the clutch as the vehicle enters the turn. If it's an automatic, enter the turn at a modest speed and take the turn without changing the accelerator position. The objective of the test is to go through a turn 1) without speeding up and applying power to the wheel or 2) decelerating so the wheel applies torque to the differential. No power should be transferred either way between the wheel and the differential. That way no load will be transferred through the CV. An unloaded CV will "coast" through the turn. Even if the CV is worn, with no force being transferred, it should be quiet. That's the common test. Call a shop and run the symptoms by them (after your "drive test") to see what they say might be the cause. And if they say it's the CV, ask for a "ball park estimate" on replacement. On the other hand, replacing a CV is not terribly hard. It is just wrenching. No super-special tools are required. A modest repair shop could do it. Almost any shop that does brakes could do it. Lots of folks do it themselves. But they have to think about it and work safely. It may not be the CV, but that's the most common cause of the problem. Good luck.

The Map sensor, (Subaru simply calls it a "pressure sensor") is located on the passenger side on the strut tower facing the Air cleaner.(US cars). The part itself has a 3 wire connector, and a single vacuum hose coming out of it. The part is about 1 1/2 inches wide and utilizes 2 mounting bolt holes. Take note that only "one" of these holes is used for mounting.

The most probable cause is stuck slider pins on the caliper holder. These can be fixed with heat if they wont come out. Put a bit of grease (thick grease) on each one before re-assembly. Also make sure that your pad retaining brackets are well greased and free of rust and road debris (dirt, dust etc.) so the pads can easily slide towards the rotor and then back away when the pedal is depressed and released. Old rubber brake hoses can crack internally. A flap of the hose material may allow fluid to apply the brakes but prevent the reverse flow of the fluid causing brake drag. If your brake lines are old you may wish to replace them. you need to rebuild the brake calipers Or buy a rebuilt one for $40 at NAPA or any other parts store. You can swap this yourself very easily, especially if you own a Haynes Repair Manual for Subaru Legacy. YFC

Recommended Fluid is Dexron II or Dexron III ATF as per page 10-23 of the "OWNER'S MANUAL".....

If it's an automatic;

Go to subaruoutback.org, click on Forums, under General > Do-It-Yourself Illustrated Guide > Replacing Lights on the Instrument Cluster.

The 2007 Subaru Legacy has all wheel drive.

In general, many of the 1990 through 1993 parts are interchangeable on the Subaru Legacys. But your best source would be a 1991 Subaru Legacy, followed by a 1990 Subaru Legacy. Verify the bolt patters before purchasing from 1992 or 1993.

bulldogsecurity.com has a wiring diagram for alot of makes and years.

Pull all three of the belts off the motor, the center pully has to come off to get to the shield covering the timing belt. The bolt that holds the center pully turns the engine when you try to simply unscrew it.Itook it off with a breaker bar and a rubber malletusing shock force. The Timing Belt has to come off because the water pump rides on it. Be sure to mark where your timing belt is so that it can go back exactly as you found it.I marked both outer pullies and the center drive sproket with a line of paint on the belt and the pully. Look for anOFF CENTER PULLYand loosen that bolt so that the pully can SLIDEand that is how you loosen the timing belt. The water pump is located at the base of the engine where a large hose connects it to the radiator, which i pulled along with the fans tomake room.Two pullies are in the way ofsome bolts that hold the water pump on. There are six bolts holding the water pump in. You should expect to replaceclamps. Factory clamps don't seem to hold up well after 16 or so years. You might as well replace thermostat since it comes off with the pump.Make sure you scrape the old gasket off completely. I used red gasket maker on the new pump to hold the gasket to it as i installed it. Make sure you pull the pump up flat alternating tightening of the bolts back and forth up and down until tight. After that put it all back together and pray. i started my engine before inserting the anti freeze to check the timing. figured why waste the antifreeze if i messed up the engine. i figure 10 seconds without coolant won't hurt the engine. Car is running fine with no leaks.I think 8mm,10mm,12mm, and 14mm sockets and wrenches, a scraper,gasket maker, breaker bar and mallet are all you need as far as tools. good luck to you.

The engine has 4 cams.

The ground clearance of the 2005 Subaru Legacy is 0 ft. 5.9 in. (5.9 in.).

I am having exactly the same problem with my 1991 Corsica this weekend. I have read elsewhere that the crank position sensor can do this so my mechanic has started to take it out when it broke in two. He needs to remove the oil pan to push it out from inside now. The other possibility is the EGR valve however I wont know that until after the crank sensor replacement. PS not I'm not a pro but I will let you know in a few days. Answer the crank angle sensor on 3.1 and 2.8Liter V6's is prone to damage from stones and mud flinging up from tires in 4x4's and wears out and fails quite easily apparently. My COrsica had the very same problem last week and this repair did the trick and the car runs like new. When replacing crank sensor, it helps to apply heat to the sensor, not a little heat but do not melt it. The "O" ring sets up and makes it nearly impossible to pull out without breaking......leading to more problems than you bargain for. Once loose gently twist back and forth and pull at the same time gently. This helps alot. Ours had the same problem, turned out to be the ignition coil pack, located under the exhaust manifold, gets hot, opens up, cools down runs fine!

EDIT: Catalytic Converter as most of the problems listed here are.

yes.....and no......if the unit is a single din headunit it will bolt in and leave a gap the wiring is the same you just need to be creative. a simple piece of abs plastic can do the trick. if it is a double din then it wont really fit the 96 97 subies ar din and a half

i believe that Dexron III goes in these transmissions. if you go to an auto parts store and give them the year/make/model/engine they should be able to give you a definite answer.

although i don't have the same model as you when my brake light turns on it means ethier my handbrake is still on or not completely turned off or it means your brake fluid is low

The 2012 Subaru Legacy has a flat 4 engine.

from shop manual:

remove luggage cover and holder assembly

remove speaker cover retainer nut and and screws securing the cover in place over the speaker assembly

loosen and remove the speaker retainer screws securing the speaker in place, lift the speaker out enough to access the wire harness at the rear of the assembly

disconnect the speaker harness

remove the speaker

installation is the reverse of removal

I am in the UK and have a Jap import 1996 Subaru Legacy GTB 280Bhp Twin Turbo Estate. When I had a play with the German Autobahns recently, the speedo which was an upgrade 240Kph STI one fitted in Japan and the limiter removed read straight down off the clock to over where 260Kph would be (about 165Mph) and it was still accelerating on the red line but traffic stopped me going faster. And a knocking noise stopped me trying it again!!! The car had two adults two teenagers and a load of luggage in it on our way to Italy. It may have been upgraded by it's previous Japanese owner because it has Zero Sports Racing Development and Kamono badges on the back. And a button for the horn that warbles it for 10 seconds to get the car in front out of the way!

got to autozone.com and put in your vehicle info, and the online manual is available on the left side under, "repair info, vehicle repair guides, transmisions". good luck!

10W 30 should be fine. Check the label. The "type" to put in your vehicle is usually based on climate/elevation of where you live/travel most, but usually I just put 10W 30 in my 93 Legacy and it does fine for Colorado driving conditions.

use a turkey baster to suck it out.

Its on the left hand side of the the car, and in the engine compartment. Located right next to the strut tower! Two clamps and a latch and its done!

it is ordinarily in the transmission. or, it could be in a can at the parts store.