Subaru

holding the pulley while removing the bolt with a 3.5 foot bar can be done with a nylon strap wrapped around the pulley and the anti sway bar. some thin rubber to grip between the strap and the pulley may be needed.

put some rubber from a old tire tube around the pulley or a piece of the old belt.

wrap the strap three turns around the pulley so it will tighten when removing the bolt. then wrap the strap around the anti sway bar or something that will not break

wrap the strap the other direction when replacing the bolt.

This pic was from a 1996 Lexus gs 300.

a 3.5 foot bar 1/2 inch drive 6 point socket was used.

at least 400 foot lbs was needed to remove this bolt.

i think someone with an impact wrench was careless putting it on.

when replacing the bolt use a toque wrench.

make sure you wrap the other end to something that will not break or bend

This forum does not facilitate pictures, which is what you need. Try a Google search: subaru H6 serpentine belt diagram

It yields more diagrams than anyone could ever need.

manual transmissions dont have dipsticks.

they have a plug on the side. take it out. and stick your finger in there. the fluid should be close to pouring out of the hole.

According to most of the Subaru commercials on television, the target market for Subaru is the teenager who has just gotten his/her license. Their commercials often feature teenagers learning how to drive.

The factory ECU is set to turn on both the 1st and 2nd fans at 207F. The temps can fluctuate between 180 and 207 under normal driving conditions. If the temps stay above 207F for an extended period of time, under normal driving conditions, it may be indicative of a problem. Under very hard driving (track day) it isnt abnormal to see temps up to 215F. Anything above that and you should let the motor cool down. It is important to use Subaru OEM coolant, and be sure to include a bottle of the Subaru OEM coolant conditioner. Finally, ALWAYS use the OEM radiator caps for both the upper and lower positions. Aftermarket caps can cause pressure issues with can lead to overheating and possibly a head gasket failure. My source: I have been through all of this first hand. Hope this information is helpful!

There is not an actual AWD transmission fuse. On SVX's equipped with AWD, this is the default configuration.

There is an empty slot in the fuse box (located under the hood on the right side) that is labeled FWD. This slot is normally unoccupied and allows the AWD system to operate. Putting a 10A fuse into this empty slot disengages the AWD and puts the car into FWD mode only. This is used mainly for diagnostic and servicing purposes only.

This slot (normally empty) can be found on the right side of the fuse box, 2nd from the bottom, above the 10A A/C fuse. Then there is the VTD tranny, which uses a planetary gear centre differential with TCU controlled hydraulic multi-plate limited slip clutch. This one does not have the FWD fuse, since it's full time AWD. This has a Diff Lock Fuse, which locks the differential if you put the fuse in.

A properly maintained, stock Mazda Miata engine will easily last 200,000 miles on an engine and yield 25-30 mpg.

5w40 elf excelium or Renewable resources 5w40HD

Instead of the pistons being arranged in a V pattern [ \ / ] or inline [ | | ] they are flat along a plane, moving along the same axis but in opposite directions [ - - ].

The diagrams offered by clicking the link below are MUCH clearer.

uSuspension is the term given to the system of springs, shock absorbers and linkages that connects a vehicle to its wheels. primarily to designed to keep the wheels in contact with the road and to transmit driving and braking forces also to keep the wheels in position (geometry) lastly to give driver,passenger comfort robb

At the lower end of the top radiator hose within the water outlet. I hope this helps you. Mark

Coolant always goes in the top of the radiator.

This answer is for a fuel-injected non-turbo model. I guess it will probably apply to most other models, too. In fact many other makes and models of cars follow the same pattern of work as outlined here. 1. First of all you have to release the fuel pressure in the lines by doing the following. 1a. The fuel tank is under the rear seats of the car and there is an access lid in the bodywork which you need to locate and remove. This somewhere about under the base of the rear seat back and is fastened down with four bolts. 1b. Disconnect the multi-way connector which feeds the unit in the top of the tank. This unit is the combined fuel pump and guage sender unit which you will be removing further on. 1c. Start the engine and run it until it stalls. 1d. Crank it over 5 more revolutions and make sure you switch off the ignition and remove the key. (you don't want any accidental sparks, do you?) 2. Now you will remove the pump as follows. 2a. Label the three pipes and draw yourself a diagram (or take a digital photo) so that you know which pipe goes where. 2b. Disconnect the pipes by undoing the clips. These vary in design and are often tricky to remove on an older car. The screw type often benefit from a little penetrating oil applied but remember to wipe all surplus off the rubber tubes after since oil can be bad news for some types of rubber in the long term. 2c. Clean all round the unit and immediate surroundings to try to ensure that no dirt will fall into the fuel tank when you remove the unit. 2d. Now undo the eight nuts securing the unit. 2e. Now the tricky bit. Between the flange of the unit and the tank is a fuel-tight gasket. Unless you already have a new one to hand, you need to preserve the old one intact as you carefully loosen the unit from the tank. Assembly is exactly the reverse procedure. When you come to start the engine, just wait a moment after switching on the ignition before starting. This will allow the pump to re-pressurise the fuel lines. This answer was written by a UK author so I apologise if some terms I have used are different in the US.

Depending on the model the curb weight ranges from 3,622 to 3,902 lbs

To the best of my knowledge all Subarus are AWD vehicles. 93 was the first year the impreza was in production. It was introduced to compete with sportier compacts. The early 93's only came in front wheel drive and in 94 they all came off the assembly line all wheel drive. to my knowledge the Subaru Impreza has never been offered as RWD All 1993 Imprezas (first year of US production) were offered in three trim levels; base, L, and LS. Which options are available for your vehicle vary based on this. All models but base were available as FWD or AWD, and there are no RWD models. Base was FWD only, and sedan only (L and LS are sedan OR 5-door.) Engines vary; The US only got one powerplant, the 1.8 liter EJ18S (SOHC 16 valve flat four) while the UK also got a 1.6 and 2.0. Not sure what all there is in Japan. The UK didn't get the Impreza till 1994 anyway.

get car up on stands, remove complete exhaust system, remove rear prop (4x12mm nuts at rear, need to remove cover to get to them 6x14mm, then remove the 2x14mm at center bearing and prop slides out from back of box) drain oil, then remove the gear linkage, there is 2x12mm bolts at the rear of linkage, a 12mm nut on side of large bush and 12mm nut and bolt on the u.j., unscrew the plate and gasket from inside the car and withdraw the gear linkage.

disconnect the wiring by the top of the bell housing, speed sensor and neutral/reverse.

Remove inter-cooler ( assuming top mount still fitted) to gain access to the top of box where you need to remove the clutch slave cylinder, starter motor, top stabiliser bar and all the bellhousing bolts you can reach, you should be able to remove 7 from above inc the starter bolts.

Behind where the starter was, just in front of the slave cylinder is a plug with a hex for a 10mm Allen key, undo this, then use an M6 bolt screwed into the end of the shaft behind where the plug was to pull out the shaft, this is essential to avoid damaging the clutch release system.

From the underside, rotate the front driveshafts so you can use a pin punch to drive the pin out that keeps them on to the short output shafts from the diff, DO NOT try to rotate the 'spider' rings behind the driveshafts, you'll mess up the clearances on the front diff and wreck it.

support the back of the box, and undo the 2x17mm bolts and 4x14mm bolts holding the cradle to the body, with a friends help, push the back of the box over to one side as you pry off the front driveshafts, they are tight but it is possible to do on your own with practise and lots quicker and easier than removing the front suspension struts and shafts otherwise,

once the driveshafts are away from the box, you will see the remaining bolts and two 14mm nuts holding the bellhousing, remove these, then double check there is nothing still atatched to the box, if it has dccd, you may have to disconnect the wiring for this.

If the box is ready to come off ( no stray wires in the way etc) tease it away from the engine, if its the first time ever then it may need a few taps with a rubber mallet around the edge, but they normally come apart quite easy, its a heavy box so be ready to either get out of its way if your letting it fall or hold it if you have a friend with you. the box is out !

to re-fit, you need to remove the release bearing from the pressure plate, to do this, remove the clutch, and there is a 'ring' around the inner side of the release bearing, open this a little and the bearing will come out, re-fit the clutch ensuring the driven plate is aligned properly, you don't want to spend hours trying to re fit the box with it out of line as it just wont go.

Reassemble the clutch release mechanism in the bell housing, slide the bearing over the input shaft, drop the fork into the 'ears' then slide the shaft back through and re-fit the plug (10mm Allen key) not tight or you'll be drilling it out next time.

Place the box onto the crossmember and a jack etc, then with help from your mate, slide the box onto the two studs on the engine, the box should slide on easily after that, you may have to turn the flywheel a little to align the splines but it should be dead easy, if not, take it back off, and align the clutch plate properly.

when the box is flush to the block, start to re-assemble in reverse order, the clutch release will need to be moved backwards towards the bulkhead to engage it in the sprung plate, the rest is easy. with the front driveshafts, be aware that the pin holes are NOT central so might take a few attempts to get them to line up for the pin to be tapped back into place, don't go thinking it'll be ok without the pins holding them, the driveshafts will move about and then eventually strip the splines from the diff, and you'll be doing another box change.

Good luck. i can do these on a gravel driveway, on axel stands, in four hours easily, if i can get on a decent workshop lift/ ramp, then its a two hour job if your half decent with the spanners

timeing is off ,make sure the spark plug wires are firing

The U5 engine option code means California emissions

All Wheel Drive helps the 2010 WRX hit 60 mph from a standstill in 4.5 seconds.

The 1/4 mile comes in at 13.3 seconds at 101.3 mph.

Top Speed supposedly is governed around 155 mph.

Yes

well sort of, fronts need a shim fitted, rears need the spring top hats to suit the springs being used, front top hats are all the same but the rears spring tops diameters changed in o3, so if using 02 springs u need 02 top hats, if using 03 springs need to use 03 top hats

Yes, Subaru made the Legacy in 1996.

it it a question or statement?

www.parkers.co.uk

1-3-2-4

distributor rotor turns counter-clockwise

cylinder layout:

3 4

1 2

front of car