Toyota 4Runner

150,000 miles on average with regular recommended maintenance.

An engine cylinder misfire is what happens when combustion is incomplete. How much it costs to fix will depend on the type of car and the year it was manufactured.

The Toyota 4Runner light truck has been in continuous production for multiple years as of September 2014. For these reasons the exact intake and air filter plenum design varies by model year. For the 2014 4Runner with the 3.4L V6 removal and installation new panel filter requires two steps. The first is opening the hood and locating the air filter box, This is located on the air hose following the engine's intake manifold. The air filter can be accessed, inspected and then replaced by opening the retaining clips of the box itself. These may be very tight. Before replacing with the new filter element the surfaces and box should be clean of any debris and other dirt. The OE replacement air filter for this application is Denso #1432077.

It will quit running if it breaks. That's the most common failure of a timing belt. It may run poorly and backfire if it slips or jumps a cog.

Generally speaking, yes you will probably have to remove the interior panel on the door. Most door panels are held on by screws and by plastic tee's that will pop off with a little pressure. Most of those plastic tee's will break off if you've got an older car, because they get brittle. You can get new ones at any auto parts store. I'd seriously recommend grabbing a 20 buck repair manual, because you could easily miss a screw that's buried under something, (like the armrest) and break it by accident. But if you have a diagram or picture of where the screws and such are, it's not that hard of a job. Best of luck.

Two engines came from the factory for an 88 MR2. The 4AGE is the normally aspirated version of the engine. The 4AGZE is the supercharged version. Some people have installed the 4AGTE - a turbocharged version of the 4AG see www.4AGTE.com. A good reference on the 4AG series engines is available at www.club4ag.com. Others have gone as far as to modify the engine mounts and remove a piece of the firewall between the engine compartment and rear trunk to install the 3SGTE from the second generation MR2. There are companies that offer kits and specialize in this conversion. V6's have been fitted into MR2's using Toyota's 1MZ-FE and 3VZ-FE engines. A good writeup can be found at www.mr2mk1club.com/V6MR2.html And not for the faint of heart, a few have taken on the extreme challenge of shoe-horning a V8 into their MR2's. Bill Strong is on his second build of his "Toystar" an 1986 MR2 with a V8 Northstar engine from a Cadillac, see www.v8mr2.com

1. Park the vehicle on a level concrete surface where it is safe to work on your vehicle.

2. Lock and center the steering wheel.

3. Place blocks in front and behind the rear tires so as to keep the vehicle from moving

forwards or backwards.

4. It is beneficial that you get a reference measurement of the stock ride height prior to the

removal of the stock coil-overs; measuring the distance from the center of the hub to the

bottom of the fender does this. You will use this measurement when you are setting your

ride height after installation.

5. Using a jack lift the front of the vehicle and support the vehicle using jack stands. Be sure

to place the jack and jack stands securely in the positions shown in the diagram. After

placing the jack stands slowly lower the jack and remove the jack so that the front

suspension can hang freely. Remember to be alert and cautious when working under a

vehicle.

6. Remove the front wheels and set them aside.

7. Remove the safety pin from the tie-rod end nut. Using a

17mm wrench or a socket

remove the tie rod end nut.

8. Screw the tie rod end nut upside down (the safety pin slots facing the ground) back on to

the tie rod end bolt until the top of the bolt is level with the top of the nut. Make sure the

threads of the bolt are not higher than the nut. Using a hammer hit the tie rod end bolt out

of its place. Once the tie rod end bolt breaks loose remove the nut and the tie rod end.

9. Using a

17mm wrench or socket remove the sway bar link lower nuts and disconnect the

sway bar links from their lower ends by pulling them out.

Note: Steps 5 to 8 must be done for both left and right sides before the removal of the sway

bar.

10. Using a

12mm wrench or socket remove the four bolts under the skid plate and remove

the skid plate.

11. Using a

14mm wrench or socket remove the sway bar mount bolts (two for each mount)

and remove the sway bar mounts. Make sure to save the mount brackets and bushings

as well as the bolts since you will be reusing them with your new sway bar. To remove

the sway bar, swing the tie rod under the sway bar ends and than rotate the sway bar

ends towards the ground. Finally pull the sway bar out from one side.

12. Using a

14mm wrench or socket remove the three nuts from the top of the OEM spring

hat.

13. Using a

19mm wrench and 19mm socket or wrench remove the bolt (19mm) and nut

(19mm) from the lower shock mount. Remove the entire shock assembly from the truck.

Remember to save the lower shock mount bolt and nut.

14. To install your new shocks align the upper shock mount inside the stock coil

housing and loosely secure with the supplied

3/8" bolts and lock washers.

15. Using a

19mm wrench and 19mm socket or wrench, secure the shock to the lower arm

utilizing the stock bolt (19mm) and nut (19 mm) as well as the special provided bearing

spacers. (You may have to pry the lower arm down some to line up the shock eyelet with

the lower mount). The longer spacer should face towards the front of the vehicle.

16. Using

14mm" wrench or socket torque the upper mount 3/8"bolts to 50ft lbs and the

lower shock mount bolt (19mm) to 85ft lbs using a

19mm wrench or socket.

17. Mount the swaybar relocation pads to the frame, using the stock bolts. Remount the

swaybar on using the hardware provided, making certain the swaybar clamps are on the

correct side of the vehicle and are pointed in the correct direction. The slot or hole should

be towards the rear of the vehicle and the fork end should be towards the front.

18. Replace the skid plate.

19. Reconnect the tie-rods. Make sure to use a safety pin on the tie rod end nut.

20. Replace the wheels. Tighten the lug nuts to factory torque specifications and set the

vehicle on the ground. Inspect the ride height.

21. The shocks are preloaded from the factory with 2-2.5" of lift, depending on the body style

of the vehicle. The preload may also have to be modified to get the truck level from

passenger to driver side. If the lift is too much loosen the coil spring adjuster. If the lift is

not enough tighten the coil spring adjuster. Repeat until you have achieved the desired

lift. Remember to loosen setscrew and lift the vehicle back up with a jack if adjusting the

height and also to tighten the setscrew when all adjusting has been completed. It is not

recommended to lift the vehicle more than 2.5".

After you have finished installing your

suspension kit, you must have the front end aligned.

Disconnect the positive battery treminal for five minutes.that should do the trick.

Possible failed u-joint.

1-3-4-2

No,it does not do any damage to the engine or the drive-train of the vehicle with an

automatic transmission

The price to change a timing belt on a Toyota Tacoma will depend on the mechanic fees. The prices for a timing belt start at $232.95.

Order a replacement Toyota 4-runner....!!!

remove the cover cap that is by the base of the wiper arm. you can do this by just pulling off with your fingers. The wiper arm is attached with a 10mm nut. remove th nut and the wiper arm will slip off. When re-assembling, be certain to wipe all parts with a long lasting lubricant, like WD40. Try this - http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15580&sid=b9cd2b78cbe5f8acd8caff2e964315a4 or see "related link" below

rear

No. Timing belt. Not chain.

the driveshaft is the tube that runs from the rear of the transmission or transfer case if it has 4x4 and runs to the rear axle.

YOUR WASTING PEPPER. It won't work. Replace the radiator.

You can still receive TV signals by antenna, but the signals can only be read by high definition receivers. "New" TVs, VCRs, Satellite boxes and Cable boxes will be labeled as HD ready, so they can translate high definition transmissions, but older, analog based TVs and VCRs will require an adaptor to translate the HD signal. From what I understand, adaptors will soon be available for about $70 to $80 each and there are supposed to be coupons or vouchers available that will offer a $40 discount (one coupon per family) to the general public.

Check the blower motor fuse. Also check the fan relay and resister pack, If all of these are ok then the blower motor probably is bad.

Well I know that on my Toyota it is because the release hadle has this little tab coming off of it that hits this small switch on the end of the handle. Sometimes it sticks and you just need to clean it up and grease it a little. WD40 works well.

Yes.

It calls for transmission fluid =]

Never!

I do not see aftermarket replacement wiper blades nor wiper refills listed in the aftermarket wiper catalogs for the 1993 Toyota 4 Runner. This would possibly indicate that the rear wiper was a proprietary Toyota technology/design and you may have to go to the dealer for the parts and possibly labor. Before doing this (because its usually a little more expensive going through the dealer), you may want to visit some internet forums and see if there's other ideas out there. Google "toyota 4 runner forums" then search "rear wiper 1993" once in the forums. I'm sure there's rapport on this topic.