Turbo and Superchargers

yes, they both use the same input. HOWEVER, the transmissions are different in length and your rear-crossmember won't line up if swapping them

Hi there. You know what's funny is I typed in the EXACT same question- year and all. Kudos for wanting to get the most out of your pathy! They're the most underrated vehicle I've ever seen. Here's what I know... I know that most engines, unless built with a stock turbo or supercharger have cast pistons- which are really only intended for the type of pressure they encounter they are exposed to under stock conditions. Engines with superchargers usually have forged or hypereutectic pistons- which are more durable and made to stand up to the added demand created by a turbo/super charger. Does this mean that you can't do it??? I don't know. The Nissan VG30I engines have proven to be really tough when you take good care of them. Here's a website that might really help: nissanpathfinders.com. Good luck!

to keep a long explanation short.... the job of the turbo is to compress the incoming air to increase air amount per cubic foot (or some similar measurement) also the reason why turbos have larger fuel injectors. you dont want to starve the engine with too little fuel and too much air. this results in more horsepower

Stock turbo is a K03, If your looking to upgrade( raise the boost) I would got to a 306 forum and check out what other 306 owners have bought and what they recommend/like. You can also get a feed back as to positive/negative affects of the change and what they would have change/recommend changing.

a knock sensor will retard or advance ignition spark, improving gas mileage and will not shorten engine life , if any thing it will extend engine life.

12 quarts 15w40

Yes.

Flywheel is bolted to the rear of the crank shaft and the clutch mounts to it, to connect the manual trans. to the motor.

There's a forum for these trucks:

http://22rte-trucks.com

The 22RTE used a CT20, nothing else used this turbo that I know about.

The CT20 is expensive to replace, not a solid performer and a general pain to work with.

If you have a working ct20, tips to keep it working:

1) Install a flex pipe in the exhaust system. The stock hard pipes contribute to cracking of the turbo housing, which is one of the most expensive parts.

2) Pull that turbo and have it torn down before there is turbine on housing contact.

You can swap in the ct26 (significantly larger) - the supra version with minor modifications, it may or may not require tuning.

There are also ct20 to Garrett t3 adapters. A Garrett .42/.48 t3 is a good replacement, inexpensive, easily found and available. You need to adapt oil feed, oil drain, and water cooling lines.

Yes, if you ever get into boost, you will get fewer miles per gallon. It take gas to make power.

The parts of a turbo going from front to back are: Compressor housing, inside the housing is the compressor and that compresses the air. the compressor housing is attached to the main bearing housing/core, and on the backside is the exhaust turbine inside the exhaust housing.

In a petrol car the turbo will most likely spool out of control until either it or your engine malfunctions, usually the engine's head gasket ('s). In a diesel engine it could go either way. Some are vacuum controlled and some are electronically controlled. If electronically controlled it will not produce boost. If vacuum controlled, normally the turbo will only produce a few extra lbs of boost, if any.

The first engine was in aircrafts in during WWI, The first turbocharged passenger car was the Oldsmobile Jetfire option on the 1962-1963 F85/Cutlass which utilized a turbocharger mounted to a 215 cu in (3.52 L) all aluminum V8. Also in 1962 Chevrolet introduced a special run of turbocharged Corvairs called the Monza Spyder (1962-1964) and later renamed the Corsa (1965-1966) which mounted a turbocharger to its air cooled flat 6 cylinder engine.

Yes, how high depends on the amount of boost and if the system has an intercooler or meth injection.

if the engine is not designed to run turbos it can do a lot of damage. a turbo engine has hardened internals

Take your hand, stick it in your back pocket, and if you have less then 10 grand to drop into a custom built S/C, buy one off ebay.

Normally between 500 and 1500 dollars, depending on condition, mileage, etc.

Theoreticaly, the twin turbos would be the most efficient power adding devices. However, due to the fact thqat no twin turbo kit exists for the car, and the non peripheal exhausts like the ones on an rx7, you would have to custome design a set-7p yourself wich would be very difficult and alarming expensive. On a rotary engine you'd nees a sequential twin turbo set up. This requires two turbos that are both too small for the engine alone. One of them runs in low rpm's and the second one kicks in to add enough air between the two for the top end of your Rev limit. Modern turbos are capleable of spooling quicker and pushing more air longer, thus reducing the gains of a twin turbo set up to a mere moot point. A properly sized twin screw type supercharger would provide a dead flat torque curve from idle all the way to redline. Petite racing. Makes a supercharger kit with a twin screw for about 6000.00$ this kit is good for 200 ftlbs of torque from idle to redline, this doesn't seem like much, but consider that the car doesn't reallly sttart to accelerate till over 5000 rpms and the torque there is only about 150 at the crank and with drivetrain loss is probably 130 at most. at 1000 rpms and stock you have maybe 75 ftlbs. Your horsepower with this kit is about 300 at the wheels, but its torque and rpms that equal speed, not hp. But i/m assuming 6k is a little much to spend, your best bang for the buck is the 3500.00$ dollar GREEDY turbo kit. The power band will actually be quite close to the superchers band with this turbo, and if the 260 hpisnt enough, BHR can rebuild the turbo so it can give you 360 hp for 1000.00$ any more power than this and you have to rebuild the engine with new apex seals and do custom power adder kits, and that'll run you 10k easy.

Yes,A turbo on a diesel is smallcompared to what is needed for a gas engine of the same size. For example most 4cyl Honda/Mitsubishi guys runturboes of the 5.9L cummins I6 on their 1.8-2.0L engines. Need to get some compressor maps and use a turbo calculator(found on multiple websites see sites below) to see what fits what you want to do. For example a stock engine daily drive needs a turbo completely different than a stroked alcohol pro import car. Usually replacement turbine housings are avail. to control when the boost starts to build.

I don't think so as when I traded in my 2003 for a 2005 Legacy the turbo was just out Other then the WRX at the time later on the Forrester came out with Turbo=I have been buying Subaru's every two or three years and the Turbo legacy I believe was 2003=I don't think so as when I traded in my 2003 for a 2005 Legacy the turbo was just out Other then the WRX at the time later on the Forrester came out with Turbo=I have been buying Subaru's every two or three years and the Turbo legacy I believe was 2003=I don't think so as when I traded in my 2003 for a 2005 Legacy the turbo was just out Other then the WRX at the time later on the Forrester came out with Turbo=I have been buying Subaru's every two or three years and the Turbo legacy I believe was 2003=

I don't think so ~ Jian999

my 2003 f350 dually avg 13-14 combined

Turbo charged engines must be idled down to allow the turbo to spool down and even out the temperature in the turbo this is done either by using oil cooling or the engine coolant or both in combination.The engine needs to be running to circulate the oil and coolant if you shut the engine down without idling the engine down it can burn the oil or coolant and in many cases both which will cause carbon blockages in the oil feed and coolant feed and hamper lubrication leading to catastrophic turbo failure (fires and explosions)

You shouldn't. The wastegate eliminates the extra boost when it's not needed.

After