Turbo and Superchargers

The Turbo Can Be Located On Different Places Of The Engine Depending On Were Your Headers Are Located. Also It Depends On Were Your Exhaust Manifold Is Located

The Turbo charger function is to provide extra air. also to add or to increase the efficiency of air in the cylinder to provides a high pressure to meet the combustion power and air-fuel mixture.

hitachi variable vane on d22 running approx 15psi boost smaller turbo than d 40 which is a garrett and differnt ecu

this is actually a yes and no answer. because the supercharger only engages when the throttle is pressed hard enough, yes it is possible to drive it without a supercharger. the no part of the answer is that any time you try to speed up quickly or pass someone the computer will tell the fuel pump to dump lots of fuel into the injectors to compensate for the added air the supercharger is supposed to be ramming into it. if the supercharger isn't producing air the engine will flood and stall.

Yes, the type of charger and size depend on the amount of room you have and if a kit is made for make/model/year vehicle. If not it would have to be custom build/ customized tuner kit.

Yes it can

no 306 is a xud9 te/l and the 406 was a xud9 sd.

• Insert Key
• Do not press clutch / brake
• Press Start button
• Wait until the Car / revelant Service symbol disappears on the Rev counter display
• Immediately after the symbol goes out - Press and hold Both buttons on the Rev Counter
• Continue to hold - the system will run a dash light check
• Continue to hold
• Display will then show VIN / Menu, - continue to hold through this until the time Reappears on the display.
• Now release Only the Right hand Button (trip reset) for about a second, and then press and hold again (whilst still holding the LH button)
• After another second or 2 the display will show the Front Brake Symbol You Are
• Now in the Service Menu
• Use the BC Button (on indicator stalk) to scroll through to the relevant symbol - eg Oil Reset or Rear Brakes
• To Reset the warning indicator light - Press & Hold the BC Button at the revelant symbol until RESET appears - then press and hold again until the process is complete.
• Turn Off and On the Ignition again - Warning should now have gone!

any internal combustion engine can use a turbo or SC, the question is how much $$ and how long will motor last with the added stress. Which will be determined also by how much boost you choose to push.

Yes. You can put the 2.0 litre boxer turbo in a 2.5rs or you can purchase a turbo kit w/ a front mount intercoller (FMIC), all necessary plumbing, you may also want to upgrade your fueling system; injectors, fuel pump, better spark plugs too. You'll also want to get your ecu flash tuned or Mapped. The benefit of the engine swap is that it's ready to bolt in. the benefit of the turbo kit for the 2.5 litre motor is that it's a higher displacement motor so you'll have more low end power when not building boost.

i cant answer how to install it, but i do konw that it wont handle much for psi. spend your money on forged bottom end such as crank, connecting rods, and pistons. sorry i cant actually tell you how to install it. i do know a supercharger is better, well i think. a turbo has lag and is much harder to install rather than a supercharger where everything is instant and its a do it yourself thing you can also change the boost by adding a smaller pulley on a supercharger. if you want to make power simply cam your motor, a 470 or 480 intake cam would be big enough. you will need new valve springs new lifters (recomend a double roller chain) and maye a stall depending if its an automatic tranny

yes, there are a few systems that can be installed, most of these systems ive seen on jdm KL-ZF v6 motors which is the 210 horse power 2.5 liter, ive also seen one on a miata motor swap. Im sure if you build your stock motor from the ground up and took it to a performance shop they would be able to make it work with your motor. It tends t be a little more difficult to find turbos made to fit the MX-3, you could find Honda and acura turbos made to fit all day. It can be done but you will have to take it to a shop specializing in performance installs.

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First I'll mention that if you have an automatic, it's no, it won't last. You'll need to convert to a 5-speed for anything that you read below:

Depends if you have the V6 or 4cyl Mx-3. For the V6, the kits out there are designed for the 2.5L KL, but will bolt up to the 1.8L K8. A few people have done it, but don't expect big power. You'll make somewhere about 200hp at the wheels (you'll need to upgrade the clutch or you'll toast that too) on it and don't bother putting any work into the motor, most if and when they blow it will swap for a KL afterwards. The K8 has little to no aftermarket that improving the internals to handle more boost is very expensive. Thanks to the Probe/Mx-6 guys, there's plenty of parts out there to upgrade a KL. If you have a V6, consider swapped to the 165/170hp KLDE 2.5L motor, or the Japanese KLZE that's 198hp. Easier to do and more reliable than a turbo kit, than afterwards, just turbo it if you want more power.

If you have a 1.6L SOHC 4cyl, there are no turbo options that are availablewith the exemption of RacingMazda.com's kit. There's a few that have done their own kits, one guy is making 250hp at the wheels on it. The benefit to having the SOHC 4cyl is that it's very easy to swap to a BP/BPT, Mazda's 1.8L 4cyl, you gain 30hp in that in itself, but also, that motor is turbo happy, even came with a factory turbo option. Swap to a BP from a 323/Protege/Escort than piece together a turbo kit on your own time, or just pop in the either the 180hp GTX or 210hp GTR motors. Getting a G-series trans is recommended for the longer gears and it's strength.

For the DOHC, you can get parts from Mazda's B6T turbo 1.6 motor, bolt in, or just swap the entire motor. The BP/BPT swap is harder on this because you'll either need to change or modify the wiring harness, but it's definitely doable.

After you've read this, if you've got the idea to swapping your V6 for a 4cyl, or 4cyl to a V6, it's a chore, requires a doner car for all the parts, but it's all bolt in of course.

To the original person who replied, The *KL-ZE* is 198hp

the GTP model has the supercharged engine in it

buy a new turbo and replace it

Well the 6.0L is still to this day an issue! Still doing warranty repairs to this day. This sounds like a typical egr cooler that has fractured and leaked coolant into the intake ports causing a hydro-lock condition. It's basically water/coolant in the cyl, and you can't compress water so it feels like its locked up. We haven't had too many issues with seizing engines for no apparent reason so other then a major internal engine failure i'd lean more towards the hydro-lock condition. In some cases you can keep tapping the engine over and try and push the water past the rings or out the valves until alot of the water is out and the engine turns faster. NOTE: Don't attempt this first method too much because you can bend a connecting rod if it spins fast and then locks up. If too much has gotten into the cyl then the last resort is to remove 4 glow plugs and crank until all the water is pushed out (makes a mess) reinstal the 4 glow plugs and see if it will turn over fast enough. If not, remove the other 4 and do the same thing. Oh ya drain the rest of the coolant so it doesn't happen again and again. With the cyl clear of the water it should turn over faster and start and smoke real bad due to all the coolant in the intake, turbo, exhaust, etc. So the main issue is a restricted oil cooler so when replacing the egr cooler make sure you put a new oil cooler element in as well or its just gonna happen again. It gets plugged restricts flow to the egr cooler and the exhaust gas heat with no or lack of coolant cracks the coolers internally. So make sure to replace the oil cooler element as well! Seen this alot and repaired alot over the years so pretty common.

The short answer is yes, but A LOT of things have to be swapped out. ECU, sensors, dash gauges, complete exhaust system. Your talking about putting in some time and money to make sure everything involved with the turbo taken out and replaced.

Any engine can be turbocharged. 2.4Ltr engines workvery well with a T4/t3 turbo. If the engine doesn't have forged piston and/or high compression boost should be limited t< 8psi on 91+octane. Proper air/fuel ratio and ignition timing are crucial to engine durability.

If you really love motors like me, you could try to take a 383 Stroker (not 383 Chrysler, which is way better anyways) and cram it into the impala. You will need to make modifications though and maybe even change the transmission.

The turbos used on cars are constant pressure. I have not seen a pulse turbo on anything but rockets and jets. The design and setup for both are completely different.

Simplified they are air pumps driven by a belt connected to the engine crank, that force air in to the engine.

There are 3 different types of superchargers(belt driven)

The original was the roots, it has to 2 rotors that push air into a special manifold. The supercharger pushes more air into the engien than the engine can consume, which increases the pressure. They are the lowest costing, bulkiest/heaviest, least effiecent, has instant boost and looks cool.

Twin-Screw supercharger. Looks like a Roots but works alittle different. It does produces boost by packing the intake manifold with excessive amount of air(producing boost), but it also has an internal compression. It does this by having its roots twisted( like screws) which internally compress the air into a tighter twist. It is more effiecient, can produce more power, more boost and is smaller than the roots. Still has instant boost but is usually the most expensive(2-3x more$ than roots).

Third type is the centrifugal (vortech, paxton, procharger), it is basicly a belt driven compressor side of a turbo. It internally compresses the air. Has gears and pulley ratios to get the compressor's rpm in the 20,000-60,000rpm range(depending on size). It is more effecient than either of the other 2. It is smaller in size and since it is not mounted on top of the motor, it is easy to intercool(to make even more power/effiecent). Down side is the boost is not instant, it is linear. Example: 7psi kit, 7psi at 6000rpms, down at 3000 rpms only have 2-3psi, 0 at 1000rpms, others would have 7psi.

Turbocharger,is not belt driven, is an exhaust driven version of the centrifugal supercharger, only get boost when underload so it is the most fuel effiecent. Down side is that the turbo needs to spool up first to make boost. Always a delay from flooring it until you get boost, can be .2 of a sec. (small turbos set up) - 2 sec. large setup. Do get more mid rpm boost than centrifugal superchargers, but more $$, need exhaust manifolds, waste gates to control boost level.

A blower, usually means super charger. It is forced induction ( higher pressure) opposed to the NA engine which gets air through vaccum and weight....This is as simple as it gets!

Holset

HE351CW

It does it by forcing more air/fuel into the cylinder than would be possible normally aspirated. This increases the cylinder pressure when it is ignited, for a longer/ stronger push on the piston increasing the engine's torque.

Your turbo very well could be on the way out. It does happen, unfortunately. Sometimes, the initial assessment may make you think it's a turbo issue, but it can actually turn out to be an injector issue, as well. And the Detroits prior to the DD13/15/16 are, unfortunately, the ones least familiar to me, but if it's using a variable geometry turbo or a wastegate system, your issue may lie there, as well. The simple fact is that you really can't be given an accurate diagnosis on this remotely... it has to be hands on. If you don't know how to troubleshoot and repair it, a shop will be your only option. If you're in the Denver area, I can take my ProLink and pull DTCs to see if there's any codes related to it, but I can't tell you for certain what the problem is - especially not knowing what year and what emissions standards that engine was built to - from afar.

The turbo waste gate is powered by the engine computer. If the truck runs it is not a blown fuse. A normal failure is the wires breaking off at the base of the solenoid.