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Volvo 240
Introduced in 1974 along with the 260 series, the Volvo 240 was a mid-size executive car manufactured by Volvo. This model was manufactured in six variations, namely 242DL, 242L, 244GL, 244DL, 245DL and 245L.
653 Questions
Is the 4th gear the overdrive on a 1992 Volvo 240 How can I disconnect?
Remove the fuse from the fuse box. Or remove the relay.
Well, I am only ten but my guess of what causes the runs is that, well ya know if you eat something sticky, like toffee, it is digested fine but then because its so sticky, it won't come back out the other end very well, so your body provides lots of water to the digested food, if ya get me, it provides the water to prevent the sticky food getting stuck, if I am wrong, then please forgive me, xx
How many cylinders does a 1988 Volvo 240 DL wagon have?
All Volvo 240 models have four cylinder engines. The four in 240 indicates it is a four cylinder, just like the Volvo 260 is a six cylinder. The last number in the model designation indicates the number of doors. A 242 is a two-door. A 244 is a four-door sedan, and a 245 is a station wagon (estate).
Where is the low end of ac compressor of a 1986 Volvo model 240?
How to Recharge Your Car's Air Conditioner By Larry Carley c2007 LOW REFRIGERANT If your air conditioner is not cooling well because the system is low on refrigerant, recharging the system with refrigerant should restore normal operation. This can usually be done with a few cans of refrigerant and a simple service hose connection. RECHARGING PRECAUTIONS First, wear safety glasses to protect your eyes. Also avoid skin contact with refrigerant. The chilling effect of spilled refrigerant can cause instant frostbite on bare skin or eyes! WHAT TYPE OF REFRIGERANT? Next, you need to figure out what type of refrigerant your vehicle requires:
On 1995 and newer passenger cars and light trucks, the correct refrigerant is R134a. DO NOT use any other type of refrigerant.
On most 1994 and older passenger cars and light trucks, the original refrigerant was R12. R12 is no longer available to do-it-yourselfers and is very expensive. When older vehicles with R12 A/C systems need refrigerant, they can be refilled with recycled R12 from other older cars (this requires taking your car to a repair shop for professional service), or with some alternative refrigerant other than R12, or with R134a (which requires certain modifications). CAUTION: Mixing different types of refrigerants is NOT recommended. Use the same type of refrigerant that is already in the system unless you are converting an older R12 system to R134a or another refrigerant. WARNING: Flammable refrigerants are illegal. DO NOT use any type of flammable refrigerant (propane, butane or flammable hydrocarbons). Click here for more information about retrofitting older vehicles with R12 A/C systems to R134a. LOCATE THE SERVICE FITTINGS Next, you need to locate the service fittings on the A/C system. There are two: a LOW side fitting and a HIGH side fitting. The LOW side fitting is usually located on the suction hose or line that goes from the accumulator to the compressor. The HIGH side fitting is located on the line that goes from the compressor to the condenser. R12 Low Side 7/16 in. threaded ß----------à R134 Low Side 13mm Quick-disconnect R12 High Side 3/8 in. threaded ß----------à R134A High Side 16mm Quick-disconnect On older R12 systems, the LOW and HIGH pressure service fittings are screw-type Schrader valves. On newer R134a systems, the LOW and HIGH side service fittings are quick-connect style fittings. The LOW pressure fitting is SMALLER than the HIGH pressure fitting. RECHARGE PROCEDURE 1. Connect the recharge service hose and valve to a can of refrigerant.
2. Turn the valve on the service hose to puncture the top of the can.
3. SLOWLY turn the valve back out to release a small amount of refrigerant into the hose. This will blow air out of the hose (which you do not want in your A/C system).
4. Close the valve so no more refrigerant escapes, then quickly connect the other end of the service hose to the LOW pressure service fitting on the A/C system.
CAUTION: DO NOT connect a can of refrigerant to the HIGH side service fitting. The operating pressure inside the A/C system when it is running may exceed the burst strength of the can, causing the can to explode! This should be impossible to do because the service hose for recharging the A/C system will only fit the smaller LOW pressure service fitting. Even so, you should be aware of the danger.
5. Hold the can UPRIGHT so no refrigerant liquid enters the service hose. You only want VAPOR to be pulled into the A/C system (the compressor may be damaged if it sucks in a big dose of liquid!).
6. OPTIONAL BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: You should use a gauge to monitor the recharging process. Though not absolutely necessary, a gauge will help you recharge your A/C system more accurately, and reduce the chance of undercharging or overcharging (either of which will reduce cooling performance).
A high pressure A/C gauge can be connected to the HIGH pressure service fitting, or a low pressure A/C gauge to the LOW pressure service fitting, or gauges can be attached to both fittings (that is what professional technicians do).
NOTE: Some DIY recharging kits include a low pressure gauge on the service hose or on a trigger-grip style can dispenser.
7. Start the engine and turn the A/C on MAX/HIGH.
8. NOTE: The compressor may not engage if the system is too low on refrigerant. The low pressure cutout switch will prevent the compressor from running if the system is too low on refrigerant (this is done to protect the compressor from damage due to a lack of proper lubrication). The compressor must be running to suck refrigerant through the service hose into the system. So if it is not engaging when you turn the A/C on, you may have to supply battery voltage directly to the compressor clutch using a fused jumper wire. Look for a single wire connector near the front of the compressor, unplug it and hook up a jumper wire to the battery POSITIVE terminal. This should cause the clutch to engage and the compressor to run.
9. OPEN the valve on the service hose so refrigerant vapor will flow from the can into the A/C system. It may take up to 10 minutes or more per can to suck all of the refrigerant out of the can into the A/C system. Feel the air coming out of the ducts inside the vehicle. It should be getting colder.
10. If you are using a high or low pressure gauge (or both) to monitor recharging, look at the gauge(s).
LOW pressure gauge: When the reading is between 25 and 40 psi with the A/C running, STOP. The system is fully charged and should be cooling normally. DO NOT add any more refrigerant. If the gauge is over 50 psi, you have overcharged the system with too much refrigerant.
High pressure gauge: When the reading gets up around 200 to 225 psi (R12), or225 to 250 psi (R134a), STOP. The system is fully charged and should be cooling normally. DO NOT add any more refrigerant.
NOTE: The high and low pressure readings will vary depending on the system and ambient temperatures (higher temperatures cause higher system pressure readings).
Refer to the vehicle manufacturer specifications for normal system operating pressures, and the total refrigerant capacity of the system. Most newer passenger car A/C systems do not hold much refrigerant (only 14 to 28 oz.), so you don't want to add too much if the system is low. One can of R134a typically holds 12 oz. of refrigerant.
11. If the system needs more refrigerant after adding one can, you can add a second can. CLOSE the valve on the service hose, then disconnect the hose from the empty can, screw a new can onto the service hose valve, turn the valve to puncture the new can, then turn the valve all the way back out again so refrigerant can flow through the hose into the A/C system.
When you have finished, turn the engine off. CLOSE the valve on the can of refrigerant before disconnecting the service hose from the LOW pressure fitting (in case there is any refrigerant left in the can). Don't vent any leftover refrigerant from the can. Leave the service hose attached to the can with the valve closed so you can save the refrigerant for a future recharge.
Remember to replace the plastic caps over the service fittings, and remove the jumper wire from the compressor if you had to jump it to make it run. IF THE A/C SYSTEM STOPS BLOWING COLD AIR AFTER A FEW DAYS, WEEKS OR MONTHS If your A/C stops blowing cold air several days, weeks or months after you recharged it, it means the system has a leak and the refrigerant is escaping. You should add some leak detection dye to the system to find the leak. The leak should then be repaired before the system is recharged again; otherwise you are just wasting your time recharging the system over and over again. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm
How do you remove headrests from 1989 240dl and then replace it after new leather is installed?
The headrest has metal tubes that go down into the seat back, they go through plastic clips that have a button that you can press. If you can feel for the button by pressing on the back of the seat back with your thumb. This requires alot of effort and pressure. If you feel it and can push the button, pull up on the headrest at the same time. You can pnly do one side at a time. However, if you are going to recover the seats anyway... just cut the back of the seat back open about 2 inches directly below where the bottom of the headrest goes into the seat, look inside for the white plastic clips, press the button, etc.
What are the steps to replace front brakes on a 1989 Volvo 240 DL?
Put the car on jack stands and remove the wheels. Locate the calipers and brake pads and remove the pins and clips from the calipers. Slide out the old brake pads and push the piston back to make room for the new pads and shims. Slide in the new pads and shims and put the pins, clips and cotter pins back in. The front and rear replacement process are very similar, but have different pads and shims.
Is it possible to eliminate the AC compressor to drive power steering pump on a 1986 Volvo 240 DL?
IPD makes a kit for some Volvos, depends on if the pulleys line up correctly. If not, get an empty, but spinning, compressor from junkjard to act as pulley.
Where is the fuel pump fuse in a 1988 Volvo 240?
Driver side kick panel fuse no. 4 and 6. Relay is behind glove box.
Where is the fuel pump relay located on a 1993 Volvo 850?
under the hood of the car unscrew the fuse box and your relays are underneath there, i changed my fuel pump relay last year pretty quickly its relay 103
Where is the recharge port ac Volvo 240 dl?
the valve is usually located on the back of the AC compressor itself. If not there, you could also look for it along the line by the AC dryer. Look for the port that is on or closest to the LARGE hose line for the a/c. This is the only one you use to recharge the a/c. On most 240's it is sticking out of the lower back of the a/c compressor and is tough to get to if you don't remove the mass airflow meter. Of course the car won't run without the meter so I actually remove it, then replug it while charging the a/c.
Where on the 1980 240 series Volvo do you refill the power steering fluid?
Why does your Car Keep Running?
If you mean the engine continues to run after you shut it off, then it's called dieseling. It's caused by carbon buildup on the tops of the pistons, which can get red hot (called hot spots). Sometimes after the engine has been shut off, fuel injectors or carburetors leak gasoline into the cylinder and onto the hot spots, which ignites the fuel and can cause the engine to continue to run. Try running a fuel system cleaner to get rid of the carbon. If that doesn't work take the car to a garage and have them test the injectors.
Where is the air filter on a Volvo 240?
Hello,
On the 240 there is a black plastic rectangular shaped box on the driver side under the hood just behind the radiator support. This box has to clips on it that hold it closed. Loosen the two clips and then you can gain access to the air filiter. You may have to loosen the hose type clamps on the air intake plastic hoses to be able to remove the cover from the air cleaner box. Install the new air filter in the same direction of the one that comes out and ensure everything is tightened back up and clipped like when you started.
Cheers -
The number one cause is a failed fuel pressure regulator. It is on the fuel injector rail and held on by three bolts. Other causes could be stuck fuel injectors and/or a failed oxygen sensor but the FPR is the number one reason.
How do you remove rear seats in 1991 Volvo 240 sedan?
The seat bottoms have two metal loops at the leading edge that fit into hooks on the floor of the car. One at a time, push down on the seat bottom above the loop, push back on the loop with a screwdriver, prybar or stick. Then pull up on the seat front. The bottom should then just come out.
For the seat back, there are long tabs welded to the body just below the bolster by the door, exposed now that you have the bottom removed. Unbend them so they no longer hold the bottom of the seat back. Pull the bottom toward you slightly to free it, and then push up on the seat back, hard. I found I had to pound upward with my fist in the hole left by folding down the arm rest. Pulling up frees the back from the hooks that hold the top.
Why do the window fuse keeps blowing on a 1990 Volvo DL?
First check to see that other items are not on the same curcuit as the window in question and that they are/are not working properly. Next open door panel and make sure window motor is still operational. Replace fuse with door panel open and see what's up when you try to lower/raise window. Is the motor in need of lube? Is window regulator and its components well greased? I have had this same problem and it was due to the motor stopping at a dead point in its tracks. Tapped motor slightly with the end of a screwdriver and motor worked. Greased all of the above and closed door panel. Problem has not resurfaced(1991 240DL wagon).
How do you adjust the timing belt on 1990 Volvo 240 dl?
Take the timing cover off, and DO NOT loosen the tensioner pulley, BUT check for alignment of the gears.
Check tension of the belt, on the long side, by twanging it with one finger (putting one finger under the belt in the center of the long side, and pulling lightly out and allowing the belt to vibrate.) if it doesn't twang for 2 to almost 3 seconds after you do this (vibrate for almost 3 seconds, then it's too loose.)
A special tool is normally used to tighten this belt after loosening the large nut holding it.
After adjustment, turn the engine over with the crank nut 3 full revolutions, then recheck belt tension.
The main next thing to check, is the amount of printed ink still remaining on the back side of the belt.
To check the ink: turn the engine over with only the crankshaft pulley bolt, NEVER by the timing gear bolt, until the printed ink comes into view.
The ink is bright white or yellow when the belt is new.
When the ink is 90% gone, then the belt is 90% worn.
This is a freewheeling engine, so if the belt breaks, it will not normally damage the valves.
What is the firing order for a 1983 Volvo 240 DL?
1 - 3 - 4 - 2
The distributor rotor turns clockwise
Starter 2.4 Volvo 1986 bayliner part number?
Do not put a car starter in your boat, boat starters and alternators cost more because they are sealed to keep any electrical sparks from blowing up your boat if there are any gas fumes in the engine bay. The cheapest way to go is to take it to a rebuilder and have yours rebuilt. You will be taking a big risk if you use an automotive starter and it is also illegal by coast guard guidelines.
Where is the ECT sensor on 1990 240 DL?
Under the intake manifold, directly beneath the #3 runner. Don't confuse it with the sensor for the temperature gauge on the dash, which is under the #2 runner. (And just to be clear, #1 is towards the front of the car, #4 is towards the rear.)
Where is location of fuel pump check valve on 1984 Volvo 240?
Right in front of the pump, looks like integral part of the pump, made of brass. Be careful not to brake short high preassure line connector to the fuel filter. Fairly expensive and easy to brake.
