VW Rabbit

A coil is what gives you spark it distributes the power to your spark plugs so it would run bad or not at all check for spark.

The coil produces the power for the spark to ignite the fuel/ air mixture in the combustion chamber of the engine . The distributor systematically distributes or places that spark to the spark plugs in the firing order .

The color of rabbit fur varies widely. Some wild rabbits change the color of their fur across the months from all white to brown with a white underbelly. Domestic rabbits have fur ranging from white across tan and brown to black. Gray is also possible, with different shades of it. Some darker grays appear almost blue. Many have a lighter to white belly.
Wild rabbits are generally either black, brown, white, or grey. Pet rabbits can be those colours, too, but they can also be other colours like orange and lilac.

Excessive brake pad wear. Check the pads and look into getting them replaced.

open the hood. in back of headlight assembly there are two metal tabs. pull them up. the assembly will slide oot of the grill giving you access to bulbs.

It stands for 5th gear. I think it was a VW marketing ploy to show that the 5 speed car is Economical when using the "E" gear.

cheese

Start with 3 1/2 and then run the engine for 2 minutes and then shut off and check dip stick in 10 minutes. A liter is slightly larger than a U.S. quart.

Put the car front end up wheel ramps, or if you do not have ramps but do have some 2x6 lumber lay the lumber down on the ground and stagger the second board over top of the first. This gives you a basic ramp for one tire and you raise the car 3 inches off the ground.

Because this is work you got to do underneath the car. Get a clean 1 gallon pail so you can collect the coolant. Open the hood and remove the black cap that holds the coolant so air can get in.

. Get into your dirty clothes and have a 10mm socket on a 5 " extension and on a ratchet 3/8" drive is good enough.

. Crawl under about where the passenger sits. Follow the big bottom rad hose and that connects to the thermostat housing that is held in place with 2 black 10mm bolts. No imperial measure or inch socket will work here. 10mm or nothing. Loosen the bolts rotating counter clockwise. Have the bucket nearby and loosen one bolt but do not remove it, then loosen the other some and then use your hand and pull down on the big hose right near the thermostat housing and it will wiggle loose and start Peeing out coolant in a thin stream. Now, I am not in a rush so let it come out at a controlled speed so you collect it all. You can reuse it later.

At this point I go have a coffee...rather than lay under the car. When the dribbling stops, remove the bolts and CAREFULLY REMOVE THE IGLOO THERMOSTAT HOUSING. A reusable rubber "O" ring will come out as well. There is no paper gasket. Now if you look straight up where the housing was you will see the thermostat up inside. If this is the case, then use your fingers to pull on it and hopefully you still have the bucket there because another 2 quarts will run down your arm and into the arm pit.

Surprise ! Now you have removed the thermostat.

Putting it in is the reverse of removing it.

NOTE

If your problem was no heat or overheating then it is not the thermostat you should be looking at. It most likely works dandy.

To fill a VW radiator, you remove the upper rad hose and fill the rad hose up with coolant...this fills the back half of the engine that submerges the thermostat in coolant, submerges the temperature sensor in coolant so the rad fan clicks on to cool the motor when hot AND fills the heater core with coolant so it gets hot.

. Then you put the upper rad hose back onto the radiator and tighten the clamp. Then fill the upper coolant tank with coolant as full as you can fill it(no air space) and put the black lid on.

. Then on the passenger side inner fender there is another coolant tank which you HALF FILL UP WITH COOLANT. The lid on that tank is loose and is suppose to be loose. It just pops off when you push up with your thumbs,(and snaps down) It is meant to be loose because as the coolant heats up it expands and pushed the air out.

> when the coolant cools down say overnight it sucks in air. You engine expands and contracts like your lungs idea.

Then drive car and check the coolant level in the overflow tank (which is the tank on the passenger fender) the next morning when it is cold. You never want to be at MIN. because then you are sucking air. It is a quick "Eyeball check to see if you have enough coolant" It helps when the coolant is colored as it is easier to see the level.

The timing marks on a MK1 1600cc Caddy engine is on the front of the crank pulley. It is under the cam also.

Interior lights being left on Shorted wiring for the starter motor. This is the very first electrical component that receives power from the battery.

Any wires that are shorted together (positive & negative tied together or simply touching) will also run down the battery in short order.

METHOD #1 - As described in the Owner's Manual

Go in from the front wheel wells. If changing the DRIVER SIDE bulbs, cut the wheel to the RIGHT. PASSENGER SIDE, cut the wheel to the LEFT. From there pop off the the plastic anchors holding on the plastic liner with a flat head screw driver. Be careful though. They break pretty easily. After that pull the plastic liner away. The liner is fairly flexible, so feel free to pull it back a bit. And that's it. Make sure you got the right bulbs and change away.

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METHOD #2 - Lots Easier

This method avoids having to go through wheel wells (just performed on my 2004 Accord passenger side. Should be same to 2003, and if on driver side remove battery to get access)

- Get a right-angle ratcheting (or angle) screwdriver so you can loosen the three screws securing the bulb in place. Search Amazon for "Lisle 64250" and you'll see what I bought, it's around $15. The angle screw driver is real cheap and works just about as well as the ratchet because all you have to do is loosen the screw about 1/8 turn of so. Then you can do the rest of the removal by hand.

- With the help of the ratcheting (or angle) screwdriver to just do an initial loosening of the screw, carefully unscrew (by hand) and remove the screw closest to you, and the screw at the top of the "screw pyramid"... the screw closest to the hood. For the third (the one on the other side of the bulb from you) just loosen it a couple of turns. No need to remove it as that would be the hardest to put back in place later. Just loosen enough so the bulb can be turned and removed from the housing. Be careful not to drop screws into the well as they will be hard to find.

- You'll need two hands in there because of short power wire length, but unplug the old bulb from the power harness. Do this by squeezing the harness near the wire end... this will lift the plastic tab that holds the bulb in the harness and allow you to unplug it. You can also lift the plastic lock tab with a small screwdriver instead of squeezing the harness.

- Put new bulb in the housing. Once it is in, with the same hand you should be able to hold the bulb in place while you tighten the screw you left in there. That should hold the bulb in place fairly well to get the other two screws in place. As others suggested I didn't touch the bulb but also didn't run into a point where I felt I had to. I handled it from the plastic end, open end for the harness plug should be pointed toward the ground.

- Once the holding screws are in, plug in the power harness to the new bulb. It should click right into place. You're done.

The whole process took just a few minutes... you'll want to do it with plenty of light available. When I first looked this over it was at night in my garage and it looked harder than it was. In the daylight with no weird shadows it was a no-brainer, and going in through the wheel well wasn't necessary at all (unless maybe if you fumble-finger one of the screws and have to find it. Telescoping magnet would hopefully help in recovering).

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METHOD #2A - Even easier than METHOD #2

This method above (from the top side in the engine compartment) is much easier because the so-called "fairly flexible" wheel well liner is not really that flexible and it poses a constant nuisance springing back into place while you are trying to perform the replacement through the wheel well. I gave up on that method even though it is recommended in the Owner's Manual.

If you are doing this on the driver's side low beam bulb, disconnect and remove the battery and its hold down clamp and shield completely so you can see where the bulb holder is. Replace these when done with the bulb assembly replacement.

I have found after two low beam bulb replacements, one on each side of my 2003 Honda Accord, that you only have to completely remove ONE screw, the one nearest to the center of the engine compartment and easiest to reach. You only have to LOOSEN the SECOND screw at the top a bit -- just enough to allow you to rotate and remove the plastic connector into which the bulb assembly plugs. Don't even mess with the THIRD screw, which is impossible to reach anyway.

Also note that the particular type of screws used here are very easy to remove after you get them loosened just a little bit. They can be unscrewed by hand using your fingers only after the first 1/8 turn or so with an angle or ratcheting screwdriver. I was amazed that they had not rusted or corroded at all in the 7+ years I have owned this car. I think that they are aluminum alloy screws which screw into a plastic holder. DO NOT DROP THE SCREW.

Do this in an environment with plenty of light as mentioned above. Most of this can be done by feel, but you need enough light to see where to feel.

Oooh, good question :) If your '81 has 6-point socket screws, the torque spec is 50Nm (37 lb/ft), then another sequence of 70Nm (52 lb/ft), and finish up with another sequence of 90Nm (66 lb/ft). If your '81 uses 12-point socket screws, the torque spec is 40Nm (30 lb/ft), followed by another sequence of 60Nm (44 lb/ft), and then torque each screw an additional half turn with a breaker bar (NOT the torque wrench!). Additionally, here's the torque sequence if you were looking at the motor: (10) (4) (2) (6) (8) (7) (5) (1) (3) (9) Good luck! And, get the proper gasket :)

The air filter is located beneath the fuel distributor, behind the battery. There's four clips around the air box that you need to pop off. Once this is done, you should be able to open the air box with the fuel distributor, fuel lines, etc. still attached and pull the filter out. Honestly, this is 100% easier if you just move the battery out of the way first, but it's not necessary.

The windshield wiper fuse is located in cabin fuse box in slot 16. To find the cabin fuse box remove plastic panel on the underside of the dashboard.

ftygin

You DON'T. This is something you take to a VW mechanic, like a dealership. Unless you want to spend $5000. for the tool that senses fuel injection pulses (and you set it to a hair of being right on). Me, I find it more economical for them to do it right, then for me to mess it up. It is not something you can hear with the ear.

Nope, all vw trucks 80-84 are front wheel drive.

To replace the air filter on a 2007 VW Rabbit, you need to remove the screws holding the air duct, then gently push each end of the plastic engine cover and pull it off, rotating the unit to the side before removing several more screws to gain access to the filter. If you want to know where the filter is, there is a diagram in the engine compartment.

p1151 bank fuel trim lean. need to check fuel injectors, intake system for leaks and fuel supply- fuel pressure

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$800