Alternators

If you have a Mercruiser, there was a recall on the pulley that was first used. As I remember, the pulley was wearing out the belt prematurely causing it to break, and or jump off. I would check with a Mercruiser dealer to see if applicable to your engine.

Here are the relatively easy steps I took. The alternator is difficult to access, and cannot be removed without removing something--preferrably the easiest thing. # Turn the steering all the way to the left (makes things easier) # Disconnect the battery ground wire. # Jack up the car and remove the front driver's side wheel. # Remove the 2 alternator mounting bolts. Access to top bolt from top, bottom bolt from underneath. # From top or underneath (both are difficult access), rotate alternator so you can remove all the wiring (one plug, one wire wired to the post, and one retaining clamp on the back). # From underneath, move alternator back behind the engine to clear it from the alternator mounting bracket. # From underneath, remove alternator mounting bracket. Two 14 mm bolts (need a socket for one of them). # From side, in wheel well, unscrew back-most plastic screw holding front inside wheel-well splash guard on. # Pull Alternator out just behind the splash guard, flexing it out as you go. # Put the new alternator back in through the same hole. # Set the alternator aside and put the alternator mounting bracket on--tighten it up because you won't be able to access one of the bolts once you put the alternator on.

Notes:

You might want to make sure that the new alternator will fit in the mounting bracket while both new alternator and bracket are off the car. Sometimes the bolt sleeve in the bracket can be too tight and need a little tap to move it out.

You will probably lose the wheel well nut behind the plastic screw retaining the wheel well splash guard; mine fell into the body frame, never to be seen again. To fasten it back, I just used a pinched piece of coat-hanger wire to hook the wheel well back in place and then put some silicone on the hole so that water didn't go into the hole.

If you charge the battery and than let it run by itself, the battery will begin to slowly drain without recharging itself as you press the gas.

I'm going through what I believe is a busted alternator right now. Give me an hour and I'll tell you how it went.

In all of my years working on automobiles I have never heard of an "alternator switch". Not too sure what that would be or how it would affect the engine running unless perhaps you battery is too discharged to run the engine.

Two things are required for an engine to be able to start and run. Those are gasoline and spark. So the first thing to do is find out if you still have spark and gas when the engine is not starting. To do that check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve, it should be about 45 lbs not running, it will drop some when the engine is running. If there is not enough ongoing pressure the gasoline will not be able to pass through the fuel injectors.

If you have fuel pressure then check the spark plugs for spark at the plugs. I do that with and inductive timing light.

More than likely incorrectly aligned or buckled pulley or overtightened or seized pully

The charging system is not producing enough amps as required. Which means either the battery or alternator needs to be replaced.

The 2002 & 2003 has problem with their alternator, the pully of the alternator is too big so the rpm is not fast enough to charge the battery, especially if you drive a lot, or local street only. I think since 2004, they change to a alternator with smaller pully. If you plan to replace it yourself, make sure you search online before you start. you have to get all parts before you start, a new alternator (most likely with smaller pully), that mean you'll need a shorter belt. When i bought it, it wasn't in stock. The long bolt that hold the alternator is not easy to remove, you will need to jack up the engine to certain degree to remove the bolt, you will need to remove the radiator, hoses, clip for hoses, engine cover, engine mount. MFG will remove the AC line but I was able to remove the alternator without remove the AC line so i can save lot of money for freon. Prepare to spend a whole day or possibly 2 days or move depend how handy you are.

The voltage regulator is built into the alternator. I found this out when I was given an alt with a bad VR and was pushing 19v instead of 12.

Check the voltage at the battery with engine running. It should read 13.5 to 15.5 volts. Any less and the alternator is suspect.

I have a 1995 Honda Passport, 3.2L. Look under the truck and find the alt. There is a slack adjuster under the alt. Loosen the bolt next to adjuster, then back off the bolt on the adjuster. Take off the bolt on the bottom of alt. Loosen the top bolt to the alt. You should be able to move the alt. to get the belt off.

yes

In an AC generator an armature is rotated in a magnetic field. This induces an electric current in the armature.

if you want more look on the bottom.

As the crank turns the armature rotates in the magnetic field. One side of the armature moves up, and the other side moves down. The up and down motion induces a current in the wire. The current is in opposite directions on two sides of the armature. After the armature turns halfway, each side of it reverses direction in the magnetic field. The side that moved up moves down, vice versa. The current is induced. As the Armature turns, slip rings turn with it. They are attached to the ends of the armature. As they turn, they make contact with the brushes. The brushes can be connected to the rest of the circuit. In this way, a generator becomes energy source.

something is drawing power all of the time. things to check include glovebox, trunk, and dome lights

What year and vehicle are we talking about. 2001 and above convertibles have the voltage regulator in the main body pcm. The alternator and battery can both be good, but the system will not recharge properly if the pcm is bad. Practically all cars have some drain on the battery after the key is turned off to keep the clock settings, radio settings and bcm data. Also, phone chargers, mp3 players and other accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter put a large drain on your battery. How long of period does it take to run down the battery.

I had this problem on my 2000 durango - turned out to be the rear wiper had not returned to its resting position & was continually drawing elec.

i have a 91 dodge ram 250 van and the voltage regulator went out on it. My Va was located in the computer. a new computer will run about $230. i got mine from a junk yard for 30 bucks and it works fine. the computer is on the fire wall in a black box. i have a 91 dodge ram 250 van and the voltage regulator went out on it. My Va was located in the computer. a new computer will run about $230. i got mine from a junk yard for 30 bucks and it works fine. the computer is on the fire wall in a black box.

no

it is recommended that inexperienced people consult a mechanic when performing any type of vehicle maintenance.

to replace an alternator you will need

-replacement alternator

-sockets and wrenches

-patience

once you have everything, you can begin. whenever working on any electrical car component, it is important to disconnect the battery. You do not need to disconnect the positive terminal, only the negative. the reason for this is that the entire engine is connected to the negative side, allowing components such as spark plugs to have only a positive wire connecting to them.

after the battery is safely disconnected, removal of the alternator is a simple matter of removing 2 bolts, 2 wires, and pulling it out. after that, simply reverse the process to install the new alternator.

it may be necessary to remove other hoses or components in order to create a space large enough to get the alternator through. if this is the case, just be sure to replace the removed parts.

If the battery will not hold a charge it more than likely has a dead cell. If the battery is over 4 years old, replace it.

Changing the alternator on a 1996 Dodge Neon? First buy a repair book like a Haynes or Chiltons it will be worth the expense. Next brush up on your four letter words because this is not an easy job. Make sure there are no small children within earshot. Raise the vehicle so you can get under it. Remove the battery hook ups. Under the car remove the plastic splash guard (3 bolts, 1 plastic snap clip). Spray all bolts with a penetrant and let soak in. Remove the two electrical hook ups from the alternator. Loosen the adjustment bolt (back side top) of the alternator and remove the belt. Remove the lower and upper mounting bolts. Remove the 3 pivot mounting bracket bolts and the mounting bracket. You may have to tug and shimmy the alternator loose. It is very hard to see where some of the bolts are and even harder to get a wrench on some of them.

Remove the neg. battery cable then the wires from the altermator. Then remove the belt and the mounting bolts and then the altermator.

Take the passenger side wheel off and do your work from under the car,make sure you jack it up high and use jackstands for safety,it only took me 30 minutes and no four letter words...jeffbone

Remove the neg battery cab;e then the wires on the alternator.. Disengage the belt and take the mounting bolts out of the alternator. There should be a routing schematic for the belt on the fan shroud.

Please Read at bottom...

It seems kind confusing your answer. Why remove the AC pump if it is on the front area of the engine and the alternator is on the back?

The problem on removing the alternator on this vehicle is on the bracket that seems to lock the CV Axle in place. This bracket is behind the alternator and seems like it has to be removed so the lower bolt holding the alternator can be removed as well. I have my vehicle up and the alternator hanging by it's lower bolt because it can not be removed as it hits the bracket behind the alternator.

I am just getting a technical manual to figure out the proceeds in to remove the bracket behind the alternator and have room to remove the lower bolt holding the alternator. What a better response??? Avoid buying such a difficult car to work with; even changing spark plugs is a hassle on this vehicle, unless you want to have a +- $900.00 spark plug service on a $3000.00 vehicle.

IN ORDER TO CHANGE THE ALTERNATOR YOU WILL NEED TO; DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, REMOVE THE SKID PAN FROM THE UNDERCARIAGE, UNBOLT THE AIR CONDITIONING PUMP FROM ITS BRACKET(FROM UNDER THE CAR) (CAREFULL ITS PROBABLY CHARGED WITH FREON). LET IT HANG. GO TO THE TOPSIDE, UNDER THE HOOD, AND UNBOLT THE THREE NUTS ON THE ALTERNATOR. RMOVE THE STUDS FROM THE BACK SIDE. REMOVE YOUR FREEON HIGH PRESSURE HOSES FORM THE AIRCONDITIONING PUMP.( BE CAREFUL, BECAUSE IT WILL BLOW FREON EVERYWHERE, NOT GOOD FOR THE OZONE, BUT I HAVE NOT MASTERED THE ART OF CATCHING HIGH PRESSURE VAPORS) GO BACK TO THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND REMOVE THE AIR CONDITIONING PUMP. UNBOLT THE BRACKET THAT IT WAS MOUNTED TO BOLTED TO THE ENGINE NEXT TO THE OIL FILTER. NOW YOU CAN DISCONNECT THE FAST CONNECTOR FROM THE ALTRERNATOR, (EASIEST FROM THE TOP SIDE) THE GO BACK TO THE BOTTOM AND UNBOLT THE POWER CABLE FORM THE ALTERNATOR.(ENSURE YOU HAVE ALREADY DISCCONECTED THE BATTERY) GO TO THE PASSENGERS SIDE REACH OVER THE FENDER AND REMOVE THE SERPENTINE BELT. GET UNDER THE CAR REACH UP AND PULL OUT THE ALTERNATOR. IT MAY REQUIRE A LITTLE LEVERAGE DUE TO HOW TIGHT IT FITS IN THE BRACKET. AFTER REASSYMBLY YOU WILL NEED TO GET YOUR AIR CONDITIOINING RECHARGED WITH FREON. ITS R-34 AND YOU CAN PURCHASE THE PRESSURIZED CANS AT MOST AUTOMOTIVE STORES FOR ABOUT THIRTEEN DOLLARS A BOTTLE. GOOD LUCK

There is a much simpler way to replace your alternator. Jackup and brace front passenger side. Remove front passenger tire and the small plastic inner fender panel (4 bolts 10 mm). The alternator is right there. Remove belt and inspect now is the time to replace it if needed. its easiest two remove the two bolts the hold the tensioner on once you have the belt off the tensioner. Your factory tensioner will require pushing on it from the top, an aftermarket one(about 70 bucks) will have the 3/8 fitting for a socket handle. Removing the tensioner is done to feed the belt through easier onto the upper pulley as there isn't much room to push it through attached. With belt removed there are two bolts to remove. remove the upper bolt the take the nut off the lower bolt its easier to loosen the bracket for the upper bolt as well (for reassemble) once you have the upper bolt out and the lower bolt off the bracket molded into the block is slotted gently pry up and wiggle alternator and itll come off with bolt in place. put bolt in the new alternator. you can now rotate the alternator to remove the battery terminsl and the plug. remove alternator and reverse the procedure. remember to tighten the alternator bracket after you have the alternator in place and the top bolt started. its not 100% necesarry to loosen the bracket but it makes lining up the bolt hole on the alternator easier. Absolutely no reason to do anything with the ac pump or any other component.

Ok Having now done this myself I can say that what is directly above is correct.

Honestly this job is not all that difficult. By the way mine is a 2003 with a 2.7L. I am assuming that this is the same for all models from 2001 thru 2006 I believe?

I recommend several other things than above. Move the tensioner, and slide the belt off of the idler pulley. Don't take off the tensioner... Move the tensioner again and remove the belt from the alternator. Then just push the belt up out of the way of the alternator. Much easier for reassembly.

Now there are two key items that no one seems to elaborate on. The back or rear bracket hole in the alternator is slightly larger then the front bracket hole. In the rear bracket hole is a hard plastic grommet that is slotted. This allows the alternator to slop when the nut has been removed. The other really key piece of info is that the bracket itself is completely slotted front to back. This is how the whole thing comes easily apart. Yes some one really did think about this... As soon as you apply some downward pressure at the other bracket, (That's the one that is single and threaded), the entire alternator will almost pop out of the slotted bracket. Once you have it out you can then pivot around some to get a socket on the nut for the charging wire. Assume you know how to get the interlock plug out.

Reassembly is really much easier if you loosen the two bolts in the bracket that the bolt goes through to screw into to the single threaded hole. Alignment is really difficult almost impossible if you don't.

Also have to get my dig in. Shame on you Haynes Manuals for taking the easy out approach and saying, "Space is limited in this area and other parts must be removed to replace the alternator."

Correction: to remove the alternator,first you have to remove the master cylinder, and take off the wheel guard by the wheel well(maybe 3 plug in screws) so that you can get at the alternator bolt. Once you get the upper and lower bolts off, use something to pry it out with (2x4 works well), then carefully slide it out, tight squeeze but can be done, and there you go. At the most, maybe 2-3 hrs.

Correct correction, don't remove the master cylinder, you have to bleed the brakes and getting to the mounting hardware and removing the brake lines can be disaster. I have been a mechanic for over 30 years. Do this instead;

remove the left wheel-remove the upper ball joint cover, two 10mm nuts cover the castle nut, remove the castle nut. Remove the strut assembly bolt from the lower control arm, that will give you the necessary travel to remove the driveshaft, that's what is really you need to do to remove and drop the alternator out. Now remove the lower mounting bolt from the wishbone from the lower control arm, this will allow more travel to remove the driveshaft. Remove the upper control arm ball joint nut. You have to release the tension of the upper ball joint to the upper control arm, one way is to use an expensive removal tool or thread the castle nut back on the ball joint stud just enough to protect the threads from being damaged. The object here is to pop the ball joint stud out of the control arm, this is when you have to be careful-I used a lead faced hammer or you can use a brass faced hammer, remember the idea here is to protect the threads. It will take a couple of brave licks to free the balljoint stud from the spindle. I also removed the brake hose securing attachment to allow more freedom for the brake hose. Remove the castle nut from the end of the driveshaft, it's gonna take a big socket, be careful to use a punch to get the locking face of the nut away from the groove of the shaft, take your time and move with small hits on the punch.When that is done remove the driveshaft. I will take some prying from the inner half shaft, be careful not to damage any of the soft rubber boots surrounding the CV joints. The left side of the drive shaft is in two pieces, the inner shaft stays put. Swing the spindle assembly toward the rear of the car and that will give you enough clearance to remove the shaft and finagle the alternator out.Remember to get some cotter pins, if you can save the old ones, good. Don't forget to relearn the computer idle speed calibration, I did the first time and had to disconnect the battery and relearn the computer.

The alternator is located behind the inner fender well on the passenger side. Must remove tire and splash guard to see it.

Remove clip-on and red wire from back Remove belt by releasing pressure on the auto-pressure arm on passenger side of motor at front, near center at bottom. I used a 2-foot jack lever to push down while a second person removes belt with screwdriver remove 2 bolts holding down the reservoir in front of the lowest bolt on the alternator Remove 3 bolts Reassemble. 2nd' person needed to re-attach belt while i hold down pressure arm. Saved me 400 bucks