Alternators

It is located on the firewall side of the engine. This is not a step by step, but more of a rough guide. Remove the positive off of the battery. Jack up the driver side front of the car and secure it on jackstands. Remove driver side front tire. Reaching down from the top, remove the bolt (10mm) holding the power wire on the top of the alternator, and the plug from the back of the alternator. The alternator has 2 bolts holding it on, and both need to be removed. The bottom one is a 14mm and the top one is a 12mm. Remove these bolts, and remove the belt. Removing the alternator out of the engine bay is kinda tricky, just rotate it around and drop it out of the bottom of the car. Installation is reverse of this. To tighten the belt, take a pry bar or long screwdriver and put it down in the alternator and pull towards the front of the car, then tighten the bolts. That should be all of it. Just remember to tighten all the bolts.

Probably have a 'parasitic load'. This is something causing an abnormal battery drain while the car is off.

There is a pulley directly underneath your alternator that has a nut on the back of it. You'll need a wrench to put on it and push down to get slack on the belt. After removing the belt there are three bolts (two in the front and one on the back) that need to be removed. Then disconnect the wire harness and you may need something to pry the alternator out of the bracket and that's it.

low charge, rough idle, dimmed lights. With the vehicle running and headlights on or wipers on the alternator should be charging around 15v 15.5v

Defective alternator.

Voltage is a measurement of the difference in "levels" and current is a measure of "rate of flow"

Let's use heat as an analogy. You may have a large cup of water at room temperature. If you add a teaspoon of boiling water to the cup, heat will be transferred from the 1 teaspoonful of boiling water to the water in the large cup at room temperature. Heat flows from a body at a higher level of temperature to one that is at a lower level of temperature. The quantity of water in the cup which is larger than the quantity in the teaspoon does not dictate the direction in which the temperature flows. Voltage is similar, current always flows from a body at a higher voltage to one that is at a lower voltage.

Another analogy. When you pump gasoline from a gas station, into your car tank, you control the rate of flow by pressing lightly or strongly on the lever at the end of the tube. Initially you press it hard to get the tank filled up, but towards the end you ease on the lever to reduce the rate of flow so that (if you are like me) you can reach a round amount like $40.00 or $45.00 and current is like that, the rate of flow.

Voltage and current are related. Current through a material depends on the diameter of the wire and its resistance.

Disconnect your battery first. Then remove the belt you can buy or borrow a tool for the tension pulley or use a long bar just be careful where you rest it. Remove the nut on the back of the alternator holding the power wire then remove the to bolts holding the alternator.

An alternator usually has 6 diodes in a full-wave rectifier for the main current output connected directly to the battery, and also another 3 for the secondary output to the voltage regulator, which feeds DC through slip-rings to the field coil in the rotor.

Do yourself a favor. When buying a New Alternator have them check it before taking it home? I had a bad incident that I ended up with, 3 bad alternators in one day, 3 different stores. Last store check it before I took it home and everything was good. I ended up changing it 3 times. Make sure they also change the pulley. Alternator Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley. 3. Detach the electrical harness connectors at the alternator assembly. 4. Disconnect the positive battery cable and remove the nut and washer. 5. Remove 2 front alternator bolts. 6. Remove the rear alternator support bracket retaining bolts and the support bracket. 7. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. To install: 8. Place the alternator in position and loosely install 2 front alternator retaining bolts. 9. Install the alternator bracket and 3 alternator bracket bolts. Tighten to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm) 10. Tighten 2 front alternator retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). 11. Connect 2 electrical hardness connectors to the alternator assembly. 12. Connect the positive battery cable and install the nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). 13. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and install the drive belt on the alternator pulley. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. 15. Start the engine and check for proper charging system operation.

The Fuse Box can be located on your left hand side underneath the steering column...that useually requires a large fuse 20 or 30 plus I can answer the alternator question - yes, it causes alot of wacky wiring symptoms! The speedometer might stop, the indicator lights may blink fast, the "D" light may blink...etc.. Sorry can't answer about the fuse - but maybe in the fuse box!

Changing the alternator calls for 4 or 5 hours but you have to access it by removing your right front tire, removing the brake assy, the CV axle and then drop your lower control arm out of the way. It's a big job for a yard repair so good luck!

# Disconnect negative battery cable # Pull straight out and disconnect the push on type connectors for both the stator and field terminals # Loosen the alternator adjustment and pivot bolts pivot the alternator up to release tension and detach the drivebelt # Remove the ajustment and pivot bolts and remove the alternator from the engine

get a Chilton book for your model. get a Chilton book for your model.

I don't know, but I be you can find the answer here:

http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

That really depends on what brand and model of alternator, If you have a good battery and electrical system your alternator should go until its ball bearings or brushes wear out. newer Ford alternators last about 130-180,oookm, GM products CS130D (96-up) delco alternators will go about 200-240,ooo km and Chrysler (nippondenso) about the same or a bit better then the GM Delco. The GM and Chry will go till they wear out bearings or brushes, while the Fords usually by this time have worn thru the copper Sliprings on the rotor inside requiring a new rotor or replace the alternator completely

1) Rotating armature alternator, rotates in stationary magnetic field.

2) Rotating field alternator, the magnetic field is rotating.

To remove disconnect the negative battery cable, remove the cover from the headlamps and radiator shroud.

Disconnect the left engine torque strut from the radiator support then disconnect the upper trans oil cooler line from the transmission cooler.Next remove the right and left cooling fan. After that is done remove the serpentine belt from the alternator. Next remove the bolt from the front top of the alt. and the bolt from the locovered in this guider front of the alt. And detach the harness connector and putput cable from the alt.

Just so you know the bolt nearest the exhaust manifold can't be removed from the bracket but can be backed out to allow it to be taken out.

You'll have to remove the a/c splash shield from the cradle and the access panel from the bottom side of the radiator and disconnect the engine harness from its cradle. You can move the alt away from the engine and pull it out from the bottom side of the engine

if you need help putting it back in then post and if i see it I'll help

A "generator" usually produces DC current. An "alternator" usually produces AC current. Older cars up to the 1960's used generators.

Newer cars use alternators (simpler design) with diode rectifiers to convert the AC to DC. Batteries are DC.

Some electronic circuitry (inverters) can change DC to AC.

o2 sensors are in the exhaust

Usually in front of the catalytic converter near or in the exhaust manifold.

If it has a serpentine belt should be done by tensioner unless it is defective

Hi firts remove the serpentine bealt. the alternator have 3 screws .

remove the 2 conector ground and voltaje.

1 upper remove this with 15mm .

2 screws lower. this is very easy I removed this yesterday.

The answer for this question is very similar to the question for replacing the alternator. It can also be used to understand how to replace the power steering belt and the a/c compressor belt (as their removal is necessary for replacing the inmost belt- the alternator belt). This answer assumes that you understand basic terminology and have an appropriate selection of tools (metric sockets and combination wrenches, screwdrivers, lug wrench, jack and stand, etc) and replacement parts (i.e. the new belt). Consider having a replacement power steering belt and a/c compressor belt on hand if the old ones need replacing when you inspect them- it's easy to do at this point and hard later. 1. Using a frame mount jack point and jackstand (for safety), remove the driver's side wheel. 2. Remove the plastic fairing at the front end of the wheel well by unscrewing the plastic screws *Note, for the next steps, you need to understand that the devices that run off belts from the crankshaft pulley use a common method for mounting- the whole device is mounted at 2 points- a pivot point along the back that allows the whole device to arc up and down- to loosen or tighten the belt- and a clamp nut on a curving slide point. Think like an old style circle drawing compass- the hinge at the top is the main mount point and the curving slide point is a "clamp" to keep the arc the same (and keep the belt tight). 3. Find the pivot nut and "adjustment slide clamping nut" for the top front device (I think it's the power steering booster). The pivot nut is on the outboard side of the device and the adjustment slide bolt is on the inboard side just below it. I think they are both 12mm. Loosen them to "finger loose" but don't remove them. The device should tilt down and the belt should slip off easily. 4. Find the pivot nut and slide clamp nut for the alternator and loosen them to finger tight. I think they're both 12mm too. 5. Crawl under the car and loosen the pivot nut for the adjustable idler that holds the power steering belt tight. It's up in the middle in between the crankshaft pulley and the compressor. The compressor is not movable, but the idler is. 6. This is important! Loosen the clamp nut (14mm) for the idler- it is the nut on the idler pulley. It's difficult to loosen without a long box end wrench, but it can be done with a short wrench and a breaker bar. It's too close to the side to fit a socket wrench in there. Then, climb out from under the car. 7. Using 10mm socket and long extension, turn the idler tension screw (you'll see its head just aft of the power steering booster) to loosen the a/c compresser belt. I'm pretty sure you turn it counterclockwise to loosen, but check to see if the belt is getting looser, and if not, go the other way. Leave it there on the nut if you can, you'll need it to replace the belt. 8. Crawl under the car and slip off the A/C compressor belt and the alternator belt. Crawl out and inspect all belts carefully for unusual wear or cracks. Replace a suspicious belt if in doubt- they're cheap and now's the time to do it. 9. Loop the new alternator belt over the alternator pulley and the power steering belt over its pulley. 10. Grab the A/C compressor belt and go back under the car. Position the alternator belt FIRST- important! It rides at the inmost point of the crankshaft pulley. Make sure it's aligned well or your belt will get chewed up. 11. Position the a/c compressor belt- loop it over the idler, then the compressor pulley, last over the crankshaft pulley. 12. Slip the power steering booster belt over the crankshaft pulley LAST. 13. Get out from under the car. At the back of the compartment, tension the alternator belt using a prybar or heavy screwdriver to pull the alternator away from the block. It doesn't take too much force. Use a good heavy piece of the alternator and block for this- if you guess wrong and break your alternator it's back to the store. Tighten the clamp nut (12mm) moderately. Check the tension by pressing moderately on the belt- it should have about 1/2" of "give" at the center of the span. Too tight and it will wear prematurely, too loose and it will squeal. Check an appropriate shop manual for exact specs. Once you have the belt tension right, tighten the clamp nut 1st, then the pivot nut. Check the position of the belt on the pulleys carefully to make sure the alignment is good after tightening. 14. Do the same with the power steering booster belt. 15. Use the 10mm socket + extension you left in place and turn clockwise to tighten the a/c compressor belt by moving the idler. Once tension is set, tighten the clamp bolt (14mm) on the idler pulley. Remove your 10mm socket and extension. 16. Make one last inspection of the belts and pulleys. Remove any tools in the engine compartment. 17. If your jackstand is pretty sturdy, you can crank over the engine at this point to see how the belts run. It won't hurt the engine to run with no driver's side wheel. If your belts look like they're running smoothly and not making any odd noises, you're in business! Turn off the engine when you're done making the check. 18. Replace the plastic fairing in the wheel well. 19. Replace the wheel and tighten the lugnuts "mostly tight". 20. Remove your jackstand and any other tools under the car. Lower the car and tighten the lugnuts all the rest of the way. 21. Close the hood and pat yourself on the back. You've just done a $100 repair!

If the car has a bad battery the battery will not charge just becaus you put a new alternator in try raplacing the old battery.

triple diodes in alternator are bad