Alternators

The alternator on a 2004 Suzuki Aerio can be removed by first loosening the retaining bolts and taking off the drive belt. The alternator is then fully unbolted and pulled from the engine.

* 1: Find the tensioner pulley. * 2: Use 1/2" drive socket to loosen the belt * 3: Disconnect the battery cables * 4: Disconnect the electrical connector * 5: Remove the three alternator bolts * 6: Reverse the process

Disconnect the battery terminals

Make note of the serpentine belt routing so that you can put it all back.

Using a 1/2 inch breaker bar in the hole of the tensioner arm, back off the pressure enough to get the belt off the alternator.

Disconnect the electrical plugs and all other wires making note of where things go.

Remove the bolts holding the alternator in place.

Put the replacment alternator back in place going in reverse order of the above.

1st remove negative battery cable from battery. then remove electrical connectors from alternator with ratchet, rotate tentioner pully to remove belt. (near top/center of belt) remove support bracket and mounting bolts and it's off.

Most definitely.

Defective alternator, dead cell in battery, something on pulling power from the battery when the vehicle is idle, corroded battery cable connections, or loose alternator drive belt.

Check out the battery cables. Make sure that they are connected good and not corroded or damaged. Also check the connections at the alternator.

I had a 97 Expedition with a battery indicator, 12.4 volts at the battery with the engine off and 11.6v with the engine running. Replaced the alternator and then had 11.9 v with the engine running. Checked the alternator fuses on the firewall and found the 175a alternator output fuse blown. Replaced the fuse and voltage then read 14.3 with the engine running. Not sure if the fuse was blown before the alternator was replaced or not as I never thought a 175a fuse could blow without fireworks.

2 cents:

Fuse..... Also check for defective replacement alternator, alternator rebuilt with incorrect regulator, damaged instrument panel cluster, or damaged or poorly connected wiring.

Rocky_B Sounds like a dead battery cell. 1) Engine OFF - A servicable battery will show 12.5 volts at the terminals, anything less and you have dead or dying cells - Replace the battery. 2) Engine RUNNING - A good alternator should put out 14volts or more. 13-14volts=weak alternator, If voltage at the terminals is the same or lower after starting, your alternator might not be putting out anything or you have bad diode pairs in the voltage regulator. With most newer models the voltage regulator is attached to the alternator, so you replace both. If the voltage regulator is not attached to the alternator, you still want to replace both as voltage regulators tend to become mated to the old alternator's output over time. replacing just the alternator could cause the voltage regulator to fail.

Not difficult at all. You just need to loosen the tension bolts and pull it out.

DJ FLIP

Housepartykings.com

A generator produces an alternating current, still it gives d.c. output because we use slip-rings at the terminals of actual output of generator.

== == "IF you have to ask about how to do it, you shouldn't try to do it. Pay a trained mechanic to do it properly, and be happy that you didn't make a big mistake and ruin your car." ~Whoever posted the writing above this is DEAD WRONG. I knew nothing about cars and just bought a 97 camaro that had a cracked cylinder head. I asked around on the internet, read all I could, and finally removed the cylinder head, got it machined, and put it in, all in a month's time. You can save tons of money by doing it yourself. And you learn a little something too. To answer the question, I don't know about all cars, but at least on my 97 Camaro, it was fairly easy. I remove the drive belt

(the big black belt spinning in your car; to remove it, find the tensioner ( a metal wheel that seems to only have no other purpose then to put tension on the belt) and rotate the nut on the tensioner clockwise; this will allow you to remove the belt) unbolted three bolts, and disconnected two electrical connectors to remove the alternator. Obviously installation is the reverse. Do however get a haines repair manual for your car, in case there are special instructions. Also, if you know someone who has one, borrow a torque wrench...there are torque settings for the alternator bolts that you SHOULD follow. -- Having posted the original question and later following through with the alternator replacement, I can say it was remarkably easy for someone who knows almost nothing about cars. For anyone else who may need to know, here are the detailed instructions. If you are very unfamiliar with the parts, just remember careful what was removed from where, and where things to back in/on to before you take them off.

The entire procedure will probably take you more about 30-45 minutes, but will save you a few hundred dollars.

1) A replacement alternator for the Camaro shouldn't cost more than $150, if not less.

2) Before doing anything DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

3) Disconnect the wire or wires from the back of the alternator. This is usually a very simple process but if you're unsure as to where they go, label them as you take them loose.

3) You know need to loosen the drive belt, which is usually the toughest part all together. You'll need to move it enough to slip the belt off the pulley. you need to either remove the belt, or carefully slide it off from the alternator. Find the belt tensioner (a metal wheel located in near the middle of the assembly), and turn the tension nut clockwise to loosen the drive belt.

4) Remove the 3 bolts that secure the alternator to the car, and now the alternator should life out fairly easily.

5) Seat the new alternator in it's place, replace the identical electrical connection, and bolt in back with the original 3 bolts you originally removed.

6) Place the drive belt back around the alternator. If you took it off and not sure where it goes back, there is usually a detailed diagram of where it goes just in front of the engine. Allow around a half inch of slack when tightened.

7) Reconnect your battery, and be amazed out how easily your car turns over now!

Regulation of an alternator is varying or adjusting the d.c. current flow (excitation current) in the revolving field coil to control the output voltage. When an alternator is subject to varying load conditions, and therefore changing load resistance at the output, the output voltage will vary in response. When output voltage is reduced in response to increased load (reduced output resistance), the "voltage regulator" will respond by increasing the excitation current to increase the voltage output. If load is reduced, the generator will momentarily become over-excited and the ouput voltage will increase. The voltage regulator responds by decreasing excitation current, returning the generator output voltage to its nominal level.

If car cranks over and won't start it is not the starter, alternator or battery. Most likely the ignition wires or module, fuel delivery system or air intake meter.

There is a tensioner that is easily moved with a 1/2" socket or breaker bar. Release the tension, and the belt will come right off. Route the new belt around the pulleys, push down on the tensioner again, and route the belt around the tensioner pulley. A very simple job that should take no more than 5 minutes to do.

You can find more Mark VIII repairs at www.markviii.org.

If the voltage level is low or the battery is not getting an adequate charge, you may have an alternator problem. Unfortunately, there are no single lights, gauges or other indicators that you can look at to see for certain that it's the alternator. The best way to check the condition of an alternator is to take the vehicle to an auto parts retailer, such as Auto Zone or whatever their competition is in your area. They'll generally test your entire charging system and tell you what's wrong. They do this in hopes that you'll buy the replacment parts from them, so they don't charge for that service. If you don't really want to take it anywhere, see if you can get a volt meter. Test the battery voltage when the vehicle is not running. With the meter turned on, just hold the point of the red wire against the positive battery terminal and the point of the black wire against the negative battery terminal. The battery should show very close to 12 Volts DC. Don't use the AC scale, or the amps or any other feature of the meter, since it is quite possible that doing so would destroy the meter. The battery terminal will not harm YOU. It's only 12 volts, not even enough to feel. If the voltage is low, for example around 10 volts or less, you may need to charge the battery or get a battery boost from another vehicle before the car will even start. Once the car is started, make sure all other charging devices and vehicles are disconnected from the vehicle you're testing. Connect the meter to the battery again and find out what the voltage is when the engine is running. Have a friend bring the engine up just a little from idle when you test the voltage. You should get about 13.5 Volts DC, but your vehicle may be a little different, and the meter may be calibrated a little off as well, but if it's anywhere from 13 to 14 volts, the alternator is probably working ok. Turn on the lights, rear window defroster, AC and wipers to see if the voltage goes down. No matter what accessories you turn on, the alternator should be able to keep the voltage constant. If not, it's probably a faulty alternator.

get a chiltons repair manual at the library for 69.

good

On most ND three pin plug style alternators the pins are marked as "L" / "S" / "IG" The only other connection is usually a large single post terminal marked "B" This is the main wire connected to your battery and is hot at all times.

The three others are fairly easy to understand.

"IG" This is the Ignition wire and issues the "wake up" to energise the circuit when ignition is switched on

"L" This terminal is connected through to the charge warning light on your instrument cluster

"S" This terminal is connected to your battery source and is hot at all times, it may even be connected to the main wire on the large B terminal in the loom but more often to the battery through a fusible link

hope this helps

Any abnormal noise in the transmission is bad - some noises are worse than others. However, you didn't post enough information to be more specific than that. Is it a manual or automatic? Does it make noise shifting into 3rd gear, shifting out of 3rd gear or when driving in third gear? Under load and coasting or just under load ... or just coasting? All the time, or just intermittently?

Simple answer is this:

Positive (Red Terminal of the Battery) to the Red wire of the Fan

Negative (Black Terminal of the Battery) to the Black wire of the Fan.

Now more additional Information:

By wiring the fan as described above, you will have the Fan running 100% of the time.

a. You can put a Toggle switch in the vehicle and then you are responsible for turning the fan ON and OFF. If you forget to turn it on, then you will overheat, if you forget to turn it off, you will kill the battery.

b. You can wire it another way..... Instead of taking Power from the Battery, you can buy an attachment (Electrical Connector) and receive your RED POWER from a source that is ONLY ACTIVATED WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON. This is a better way of wiring the Fan and you can ground the Fan to the Battery or chassic. This is a BETTER WAY, not the BEST WAY.

The reason your Fan comes on when the fluid gets to certain level is FUEL is Expanded when heated and increases your mileage and if the fan is ALWAYS RUNNING, it takes longer to heat up your car. Many of the repairs to the FAN is done by replacing the FUSE RELAY. This is the BEST WAY to repair the system

normally that's caused by a short in your system but only when the car is on

Replacing an alternator on a Windstar is one of the easier jobs since it sits right at the top of the engine.

The short story is: 2 wire connections, serpentine belt and 3 mounting bolts*

Estimating time... For a professional or seasoned backyard/driveway mechanic, less than an hour.

*See "Related Questions" below for more specific detailed instructions and information.

If your alternator is defective the best thing to do is to purchase a rebuilt alternator and trade yours in on it. Much simpler and easier than trying to rebuild it yourself.