Alternators

Trouble code P0573 means: Brake Switch No. 1 Stuck High/Off Should have no effect on the alternator.

The alternator on my wife's Skoda Fellatio has just failed as well so I'm shopping round to order a new one.

Having had just a cursory look under the bonnet it all looks pretty straight-forward. There's a thin wire going to a plug that is, at a guess, the charging indicator. There's a thick wire that comes off of a stud and which goes directly to the positive side of the battery. This is presumably the main feed from the alternator. No other wires. Nice and simple.

Oh, and just three nuts/bolts holding the alternator in position. Should be a half-hour job to change one.

Cheers Gary

If its a diesel with power steering you are in for a shock, you need to take out the radiator to give clearance, take off the belt tensioner pulley wheel to withdraw one of the two bolts, (not three). The pulley bolt is left hand thread and is lifted clear to slacken the belt for removal by getting a spanner on it and lifting. Not as easy as it sounds, it has a strong spring and is a bit fiddly, once the belt is off you can then turn the bolt the other way to remove it and the pulley wheel. removing the left hand headlight helps a lot as you can work through the hole that is left. best to find a scrap yard that still lets you take bits off and do it there first on someone else's car. Its not as bad as it sounds but is not the twenty minute job I thought it would be. Good luck, Steve

If its a petrol with power steering and an MPI engine then you are in for an even bigger shock as I have only just discovered. Removing this type of alternator requires a special tool. Without the special tool IT CANNOT BE REMOVED.

The procedure is to undo the nut which holds the belt retentioning roller to the engine mounting. Sure, both upper and lower bolts can be removed however, without releasing the tension from the belt the alternator can neither be moved nor removed.

The problem exists due to the positioning of the alternator and the belt retentioning roller - there is only 1/2-inch clearance between the bolt-end of the roller and the wheel-arch.

The tool is not available for public use. I have spoken to Skoda who have confirmed this. Even if you could buy the tool it would cost somewhere between £40 - £70 (confirmed by Ashley Down Motors, Bristol, UK).

If you could get the car over to a garage who has the tool then you might be able to persuade them to undo the belt retentioning roller nut so that you can fit the alternator yourself on the roadside - although, they might not be happy about this so phone them first. It may also mean offering a token payment of say £10 or so.

NO WELD YOUR OWN,.. USE FLAT STOCK BENT TO THE RIGHT ANGLE AND WELD THE END OF A WRENCH TO IT AND NOW YOU HAVE A SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE JOB. ( KEEP IT IN THE TRUNK FOR THE MONKEY!) =Answer=!!!! there are two bolts to losen the alternator on the bottom bolt stick a flat tip (screw driver) underneath the bolt and pull the flat tip up and the alternator will rise if u can't put it in use a smaller one or pull up the alternator till u can put the flat tip in it always works for me on my Neon and other vehicals

Answer
Rear tension bolt
I used a 1/4" drive ratchet/socket. It would probably be easier if you had an offset head ratchet wrench, or bend one you have one already and are willing. Bottom pivot bolt/nut
I used a ratchet wrench in this location. made things very easy to get to.

This process is lengthly and will test your patience. Practice makes perfect tho.

Usually the appropriate warning light on the dash will come on if the alternator is not producing current. If you don't trust the warning light, take a volt/ohm meter and (making sure it is set on the DC reading scale) connect it across the output terminals of the alternator to determine if any current is being produced.

It's not at all uncommon. A failing alternator can easily damage a battery.

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I have no idea about this specific car, but the alternator in general is an electrical generator which is driven off the engine's crankshaft. It will normally be at one end of the engine and driven by a belt - it is easily identified as it is about the size of a pineapple and is surrounded by coils of wire.

Charge the battery, start the car and check the battery with a volt meter. Should have over 14 volts, if only say 12.4 to 13, then change the alt. or check the wiring.

I'm 99% positive that Subaru put the alternators in the same place on all their cars (engineconfiguration. I currently own three subarus: 94 legacy sedan, 96 legacy outback wagon and 09 impreza wrx sedan. All the alternators are in the same spot for all my cars. I'm pretty it's the same case for yours. I was able to remove and reinstall a new one on my 94 sedan in less than 20 minutes. I hope that this help. Here are the steps to removing and installing an alternator on a subaru.

1) Remove the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket or a 10mm wrench. Once the terminal is off tuck it to the side so it does not touch the negative terminal of the battery.

2) Remove the alternator pulley/fan belt cover. On the legacy sedans and outbacks the cover is metal and it covers the top of the fan belts. There are two 10mm bolts that hold this cover in place.

3) Look for a round plug (usually green on subarus) and unplug it from the alternator. Next pull the cap off of the red terminal on the alternator and use a 10mm socket to remove the nut. Once the nut is off pull the cable out from the terminal. The new alternator usually comes with this nut in place but I would still save it just to be safe.

4) Look for the two long bolts that hold the alternator to the brackets attached to the engine. One is to loosen the alternator from the belt (goes up and down). The other bolt holds the alternator in place at the other end. Both these bolts need to come off in order for the alternator to be pulled out.

5) Once the old one is out. Install the new one in reverse order.

Whether you need a voltage regulator depends on your specific application. If you're using devices that require a stable voltage and your power supply fluctuates, a voltage regulator is essential to protect those devices. For projects with sensitive electronics or batteries, incorporating a voltage regulator ensures consistent performance and longevity. In contrast, if your power source is already stable and matches your device's requirements, a regulator may not be necessary.

Remove the belt from your 1967 Ford Mustang alternator. Disconnect the alternator wiring. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.

What is the chrage when the vehicle is on? It should be around 15-15.5v

For a V8 you will find it under the left side of the engine. It can only be found underneath the truck. There to many parts on top to find it looking above.

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Unless you're comfortable taking apart a lot of stuff, bring it to the mechanic. If you have the dual overhead engine (which I am assuming), your alternator is located under the engine. Access can be found through the passenger side wheel well. You have to pull out the splash guard and do take out everything in the way. If it's located on top, simply disconnect your battery, take off the belt, disconnect the connectors, pull a few bolts... it's pretty self explanatory.

If you have a Mercruiser, there was a recall on the pulley that was first used. As I remember, the pulley was wearing out the belt prematurely causing it to break, and or jump off. I would check with a Mercruiser dealer to see if applicable to your engine.

Here are the relatively easy steps I took. The alternator is difficult to access, and cannot be removed without removing something--preferrably the easiest thing. # Turn the steering all the way to the left (makes things easier) # Disconnect the battery ground wire. # Jack up the car and remove the front driver's side wheel. # Remove the 2 alternator mounting bolts. Access to top bolt from top, bottom bolt from underneath. # From top or underneath (both are difficult access), rotate alternator so you can remove all the wiring (one plug, one wire wired to the post, and one retaining clamp on the back). # From underneath, move alternator back behind the engine to clear it from the alternator mounting bracket. # From underneath, remove alternator mounting bracket. Two 14 mm bolts (need a socket for one of them). # From side, in wheel well, unscrew back-most plastic screw holding front inside wheel-well splash guard on. # Pull Alternator out just behind the splash guard, flexing it out as you go. # Put the new alternator back in through the same hole. # Set the alternator aside and put the alternator mounting bracket on--tighten it up because you won't be able to access one of the bolts once you put the alternator on.

Notes:

You might want to make sure that the new alternator will fit in the mounting bracket while both new alternator and bracket are off the car. Sometimes the bolt sleeve in the bracket can be too tight and need a little tap to move it out.

You will probably lose the wheel well nut behind the plastic screw retaining the wheel well splash guard; mine fell into the body frame, never to be seen again. To fasten it back, I just used a pinched piece of coat-hanger wire to hook the wheel well back in place and then put some silicone on the hole so that water didn't go into the hole.

If you charge the battery and than let it run by itself, the battery will begin to slowly drain without recharging itself as you press the gas.

I'm going through what I believe is a busted alternator right now. Give me an hour and I'll tell you how it went.

In all of my years working on automobiles I have never heard of an "alternator switch". Not too sure what that would be or how it would affect the engine running unless perhaps you battery is too discharged to run the engine.

Two things are required for an engine to be able to start and run. Those are gasoline and spark. So the first thing to do is find out if you still have spark and gas when the engine is not starting. To do that check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve, it should be about 45 lbs not running, it will drop some when the engine is running. If there is not enough ongoing pressure the gasoline will not be able to pass through the fuel injectors.

If you have fuel pressure then check the spark plugs for spark at the plugs. I do that with and inductive timing light.

The charging system is not producing enough amps as required. Which means either the battery or alternator needs to be replaced.

The 2002 & 2003 has problem with their alternator, the pully of the alternator is too big so the rpm is not fast enough to charge the battery, especially if you drive a lot, or local street only. I think since 2004, they change to a alternator with smaller pully. If you plan to replace it yourself, make sure you search online before you start. you have to get all parts before you start, a new alternator (most likely with smaller pully), that mean you'll need a shorter belt. When i bought it, it wasn't in stock. The long bolt that hold the alternator is not easy to remove, you will need to jack up the engine to certain degree to remove the bolt, you will need to remove the radiator, hoses, clip for hoses, engine cover, engine mount. MFG will remove the AC line but I was able to remove the alternator without remove the AC line so i can save lot of money for freon. Prepare to spend a whole day or possibly 2 days or move depend how handy you are.

More than likely incorrectly aligned or buckled pulley or overtightened or seized pully

The voltage regulator is built into the alternator. I found this out when I was given an alt with a bad VR and was pushing 19v instead of 12.