Somewhere on the belt there should be a tensioer that is mouted to the engine or the alternator bracket. Turn it counter clockwise with a 15mm wrench and it should lift the tensioner enough to slide off the belt.
On my '96The tensioner is down and to the left of the alternator (looking at the engine from the passenger side fender)I had to replace the alternator just this weekend. The tensioner is loosened by putting a 15mm wrench on the center nut and rotating it to the right (toward the front of the car)
Should constant power be going to distributor?
A typical distributor will have constant power. As the rotor is turned, the power is sent to the spark plugs.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.1L?
I have an 89 cutlass supreme 3.1 and it should be the same. Remove the belt from the alternator. Next, There are two bolts on top and one under it. The two bolts on top are both size 10 wrench or socket and the one on the bottom is 13. One of the bolts on top is located on the right hand side of the alternator if facing it from the passenger side fender. The other one on top is connected to a metal arm just to the right of the wire that plugs in at the top and to the left of the other bolt. Unplug the wire. The fun begins here. The easiest way I found to get the bottom bolt out was using a short ranchet with a swivel head, a short size 13 socket and lots of patience, because I was only able to get very small turns on it. There is probably an easier way but I was unable to find it. Once the bolt on the bottom is loose and you can pull it out, I had to move the metal arm out of the way, that you loosened earlier, to get the bolt out completely out. a little, have fun.
You can take the whole aluminum "plate" off rather than taking off the third, buried alternator mounting bolt. After you loosen and remove the belt take off the three nuts below the alternator that mount the mounting plate to the engine block. It will be easy to do and easier than chasing that buried bolt.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1995 Chevy Astro?
On all the Astro/Safari vans I've seen, the alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine.
Recommended tools:
If you elect to use a 1/4-inch-drive ratchet in lieu of the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, limit its use to 10mm-or-smaller sockets: the threaded fasteners in this application having larger heads require greater torque than can be safely and reliably applied using 1/4-inch-drive hardware.
Read this entire procedure first, then decide whether this is a project for you to attempt.
There are significant minor differences to the specific procedures involved, to wit:
(1) Always observe all applicable safety procedures.
(2) Disconnect the cable from the positive (+) battery terminal. For some vans, you will need an 8mm socket or wrench; for others, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench.
(3) The power steering reservoir is in the way on vans having the Z-code engine: leaving the hoses attached and avoiding tipping of the reservoir, remove and save the screws that hold the reservoir to the cowl; then bend the hoses and rest the reservoir on the driver's side of the radiator shroud.
The air filter box is in the way on vans having the W-code engine. Open the clamps that seal the box, remove the filter: the nuts and bolts holding the airbox in place are visible. Remove the airbox, saving the hardware.
(4) The ductwork supplying the engine with fresh air is in the way. Usually, these plastic pieces just click together, but there may be one or more clamps, nuts and/or bolts, or screws holding some of it in place. The offending portion consists of the following pieces:
(a) the lower part that turns the air about 90-degrees, so that the air flows upwards,
(b) the upright section that channels the air upwards (it looks like an accordion's bellows on the Z-code engine),
(c) the upper ductwork connecting the upright section with the air filter housing.
I have heard that some ductwork installations are secured using #2 Phillips threaded fasteners (screws); if yours is such an application, you will also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
(5) Remove serpentine belt. The ratcheting tool that looks like a long, flat handle -- it came with the vehicle as part of the lug wrench kit -- has an opening that fits the pulley on the tensioner. Using the tool, loosen the tensioner with one hand and slip the belt off using the other hand.
At this point, whether you need to remove the fan from the front of the engine should be obvious. If you must, be aware that so doing without removing the shroud really isn't going to give you much room (about 1/2 an inch, maybe an inch).
If you need more than that, the shroud has to come off so that you can remove the fan. Although at 13.5 inches (34.3mm) circumference and 14.5 inches (37.9mm) circumference respectively, my forearms and upper arms are rather small, I think that needing to remove the fan to have enough room is a highly unlikely condition.
(6) Remove the engine oil dipstick bracket from the stud holding the alternator to the bracket. The nut securing the dipstick bracket is probably a 10mm. Remove the dipstick bracket from the stud. Be aware the dipstick tube could slide from the engine.
(7) The alternator bracket should be loosened from the front of the engine. Remove the bolts (it should be a trio of 14mm bolts) and save them. This allows the bracket, tensioner and alternator to be tilted away from the engine. At least one bolt may be wet with engine coolant; seal the threads of any such bolt before reinstalling it.
(8) Use an appropriate tool to unclip the plug from the alternator (I used a "butter knife), and remove the red wire from the lug at the back of the alternator. The nut securing the red wire to the alternator is probably a 10mm; the stud in the alternator is probably a 15mm (menitoned just in case the new one needs snugging).
(9) Remove the bolt from the rear of the old alternator holding it to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the stud holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the "hinge" bolt holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm bolt screwed into a 15mm nut).
Installation of the new unit is done by reversing the steps of disassembly.
SAFETY NOTES: Be aware that there can exist pinch hazards during this procedure. Also be aware of the possible hazard of falling tools and/or debris.
Helpful hint: if possible, have someone else hold the bracket/alternator/tensioner assembly in-place while you start the lower 14mm bolt by hand from underneath the passenger side. This makes installing the upper bolts much easier.
Start ALL the bolts before tightening any of them. Generally, it goes pretty quickly if you begin with the "all bolts finger-tight, then all bolts hand (wrench/socket) tight, then all bolts torqued" method.
NOTE: Conspicuously dexterous people may not have to remove the alternator bracket, but in my opinion, the procedure is much easier if this is done. You should never have to remove the doghouse (engine cover inside the van) to replace the alternator. If a mechanic told you he/she did it that way, you should be going to a different mechanic.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1992 Plymouth Voyager?
1) IMPORTANT - Disconnect the neg battery terminal (IMPORTANT) 2) Release the spring loaded tensioner (makes the serpetine belt tight). The control bolt that keeps it tight is right tunder the alternator (1994 Voyager). Use a long handled torque wrench. 3) Hold on the to serpentine belt (otherwiuse it'll be a mess) keep it tight-ish. Pass a stick through it and keep it tight or prop it up with a bungies or something!!! Be gentle. 4) Two bolts hold the alternator, one is obvious the other is more towards the back. Watch your knuckles be gentle but strong. Remove the nuts, gently lift it out and hold it there. 5) Disconnect the leads from the the electrical that are attached. Place the old one on the bench. 6) Watch that belt!!! 7) Get the new alternator. 8) Connect the electrical. 9) Bolt it in. 10) Place the serpetine belt in the groove, careful make sure it doesn't pop out anywhere else below. Popping out (even one groove) and driving it could destroy your belt. 11) Back to the tensioner, relase slowly, it will make itself tight again. 12) Attach the battery again. 13) Start the car. 14) IMPORTANT remember, clean those battery posts and cable leads. the dirt won't allow full contact thus minimal recharge. Trust me, been there.
If you dont understand the how to wire things into a dc system such as "do i need another battery", don't attempt to install this, there is very little reason you could need 1800 watts AC in a car anyway
There is a world of difference between putting batteries in series or parallel (not going to explain this here) and if you chose the wrong option, not only can you get hurt, but say goodbye to all the electronics in your vehicle to include the ECM, Stereo, etc.
How do you remove alternator 2000 Ford Contour?
Probably easiest to pull the driveaxel and take the alternator out that way
start the car remove the posative battery cable the car should stay running if not your alternator is bad if it keeps runing with no help from the gas pedal have your battery checked
Where is the alternator located in a 1988 Nissan Maxima?
Passanger side of engine, near the A/C compressor. Access from under the car.
Where is your alternator on a 1997 Ford Contour?
Front of engine. It's belt driven and has a lead to the battery so that should help you.
What does xylx mean on top of a bolt?
Xylx® is a registered trademark used for Bolts of Metal and owned by NINGBO ZHENHAI XINGYI FASTENERS CO., LTD (ningboshi zhenhai xingyi jingujianzhizao youxian gongsi).
What tools do you use to change an alternator on a 93 Saturn SL1?
You'll need some metric sockets. 3/8" drive will be fine. Maybe a small extension and the ratchet. Not to many tools involved.
How do you know if the alternator on a 1995 Escort is bad?
Alternator good or bad?
Here in Texas, all of the major chain auto parts stores [like Advance, Autozone, or O'Reilly], have handheld electrical system [including battery and alternator] analysers.
At no charge [free] they will test your vehicle's electrical/charging system in their parking lot.
If that service is not available, and you have, or have access to, a Volt-Ohmmeter, you can check it yourself.
Set the meter mode switch [usually a multi-position "rotary" type of switch] to "DC Volts," and the range to "50 DC Volt" scale.
Touch the negative test probe [black] to the battery negative terminal [battery top will usually have a "--" symbol, or "NEG' embossed in the plastic top next to the terminal], and the positive test probe [red] to the positive terminal [usually a "+" symbol, or "POS' embossed next to it. Also, normally the positive terminal will be just slightly larger in diameter than the negative terminal].
With the engine running [and being VERY CAREFUL to keeps hands, clothes, and test leads well clear of any moving engine parts] the meter [if set properly] should show a voltage above 13 volts usually about 16 volts, give or take a couple of volts. If the engine is gently revved up" the meter may show an increase in voltage output.
Without the engine running, the meter should indicate the battery's voltage, usually ranging from 11 to 12.5 volts.
Sounds like it's time for a new battery. Or at the very least, to get the present battery tested.
Where are the starter and alternator on an 85 ford ltd v6?
The starter can be found on the right hand side of the engine, near the back of the engine. The alternator will be near the front of the engine, on the right hand side.
How do you change alternator in 2004 ford explorer?
Remove the belt by using a 3/8 ratchet in the belt tensioner below the alternator. Insert the ratchet into the tensioner and push to loosen the belt. When the belt is loose, remove it from the alternator. Remove the electrical connections from the alternator. Then remove the 3 mounting bolts. The alternator should now be diaconnected from the engine. Installation is the reverse.
How do you install 88 Dodge Aries Alternator belt?
First you will want to loosen the alternator. To do this you will need to loosen the bolt holding adjustment bolt in place. This is right under the alternator. After loosening this bolt, you can use the adjusting bolt to loosen the alternator and the belt should slide right off. Then you can put on the new belt and tighten the alternator using the adjusting bolt. After the belt is to the proper tightness, tighten the bolt directly underneath the alternator to keep the belt tight and from becoming loose.
So many things could be wrong and cause it to not start, but from what you have provided the next step would be to trace the cables to the starter and see if they are corroded or broken, you didn't mention if the car was turning over or not, so I assume it isnt, so if the battery has power, and the alternator isn't the cause then you need to follow the power, it goes from the battery to the ignition, then to the starter, since we know the battery is good, check to see if power is getting to the starter, if not trace the problem in between those two points.
Why does your 01 Oldsmobile aurora keep burning up alternator?
It is obvious that you have a very serious defect in either the charging system, or the electrical system of your vehicle.
It appears that the problem is not with the alternators, but somewhere else in the charging or generic electrical systems.
Due to the high cost of alternators, and the labor to reinstall, I suggest that you take your vehicle to a bone fide auto repair shop and have a PROFESSIONAL auto electrical Technician hook up his computer diagnostic machine to your Olds and run a full diagnostic analysis of all electrical systems.
What would cause a engine to start knocking after the alternator go bad?
I'm wondering the same thing for my 98 mustang gt. My guess is that if your electrical system does not put out enough voltage under high demand AND when accelerating hard (or up hill), there might not be enough voltage a the Mass Air Meter (MAF) to sufficiently power it. If that's the case the MAF might underestimate the air flow to the engine, causing the ECM (engine computer) to command an insufficient pulse width to the fuel injectors, resulting in a lean condition. This lean air-to-fuel ratio would, in general, cause increased combution temperatures, which in turn can cause pre-ignition and engine "knock."
Anyway, that's my take on it. What's yours?
Can an overtightened alternator belt break?
Yes, and it can break and for sure will wear out the bearings in the alternator.
Describe isomorphic alternation of generation and heteromorphic alternation of generation?
similarities of heteromorphic and isomorphic generation
Did you install a new voltage regulator? Is the belt tight? Maybe the "computer brain" is weakening.
Answer
If you have installed a new alternator and new battery, check the harness/wiring that plugs into the alternator, it may be corroded/bad connection causing your battery to not be recharged at idle speed; voltage should stay between 12-14.5v range and steady (some momentary drop may occur after turning hi beam lights, etc but it should return to proper voltage after a few seconds), as for the regulator, on most cases it is inside the new alternator so no further adjusting may be required; also, make sure you get the right alternator for your focus-there's like 3 types, the wrong one will cause your dashboard alternator lamp to be lit at all times-replace with right one or higher output if got power windows,seats,etc.Good luck! Buena Suerte!