Alternators

When you have the headlights flipped up then you will see 2 holes one on the top and one on the sides. There is a Phillips screw in there that you turn to adjust the headlights.

The charging warning light should automatically reset if the battery is disconnected. Check the battery cables and ensure they are properly connected. Also check the alternator connections. If the light is still on there may be a problem with the new alternator.

If you have a volt meter, run it across thew battery. Should have around 14. plus volts. If 13 or under, then time to replace the alt. If it shows only around 12.2 or 4 then the alt. is not charging.

The primary function of alternators is to generate electricity to recharge a car battery. The alternator recharges the battery while the car is being used.

If it's a 3.8 with a single serpentine belt with the tensioner at the right rear engine compartment. You have to remove the engine mount and raise the front of the moter that is the only way to get a wrench on the tensioner . .

Your belt going to the alternator is probably very loose and the motion of the turning alternator is continuing after you turn off the vehicle. Get the belt tightened right away.

It is a typical serpentine belt for this van. You need to put a ratchet in the tensioner and turn to release the tension on the belt, then it can be removed. Installation is the reverse. Just pay attention to the routing of the belt or there may be a belt diagram under the hood, either on the hood itself or on the front of the body underhood.

Remove the serpentine belt by going clockwise with a 3/8 breaker bar on the belt tentioner UNDER the truck (I had to use my 1/2" breaker bar with a 3/8" adapter). Have someone remove the belt off the alternator as you remove tension under the truck (jack the truck up just a bit to fit) there is a square 3/8" for a socket ratchet to fit into on the tentioner underneath. Then remove the 2 - 13mm bolts on the alternator on top of the truck (under the hood). They are long bolts and rather tight, I loosened them with a breaker bar and then air ratcheted them out the rest of the way. Even with my cheap $20 air ratchet and $40 compressor, it does the job because there is not much room in there. Now pry the alternator loose with a BIG screwdriver, side by side until it's flopping around a bit. Then remove the 1/2" nut off the alternator wire and remove the wire. Now the fun part, getting it out of the engine compartment. It comes out BACK first, take the bolt to the wire out first and the entire black rear towards you (barely enough room). The pulley will be facing towards the engine and wiggle back and forth until it slides out. Good luck on the arm cuts! I didn't put my new one back in yet but I am sure it will be fun. Tom.

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Car was 5 yrs only when it first went. Was not near my mechanic on the other side of the state and went to Tire Kindgdom . BIG mistake just had to have it replace again less than 12,000 but 15 months old. Also out for the cost of 2 batteries, what a mess. The car is 8 years old has 72,000 miles and has had 3 alternators..... Love my Camry V6 so what's a girl to do.

Any suggestions?

First step is to disconnect the battery terminals remove the plastic cover on the top of the engine Next remove the Air filter assembly from the throttle body

there are 6 10mm screws holding down the intake manifold on the top of the engine.

Lift the intake manifold up and out after clearing all hoses.

the starter is located on the transmission side of the V portion on the engine block.

Yes I know its a hard job but total time was 2 hrs to replace the starter

Do everything in rev order and your all set.

you may need to change or adujst the alt belt.

Go to public library to get the schematics used by the professional mechanics...it is on line with pictures. Have note card to keep track of what you are doing. Remove the top protector cover to the radiator so you can see what you need to. Make notes on or find the map of the serpentine belt so you can put it back on. Find the automatic adjuster spool to the serpentine belt tensioner. You have to turn it with a socket wrench to release this tensioner. Then you have to remove the serpentine belt. Remove the bolts to the alternator and replace it. The alternator you buy should have some directions or you just have have the ability to see how it fits in. once it is secure, then put back the serpentine belt back on by putting the belt on last at the tensioner. TOYOTA MAKES A LEXUS SO YOU HAVE TO EITHER BE FAIRLY MECHANICAL OR PAY THE PRICE OF OWNING ONE so you have to enjoy overcoming this and enjoy knowing you can do it with a little time, patience, prayer, and perhaps a friend. TIMOTHY FOR JOHN

As long as the battery is charged

It's either a bearing wearing out, melting wire insulation, or both. The engine dying is probably a result of the lack of electrical power. Your battery is probably just about dead too.

First I assume by "fix" you mean replace. The first thing to know is that every auto parts store I have ever seen or heard of either charges a "core charge" which is refundable upon returning your old bad alternator, or requires you to bring in the old alternator to begin with. With that in mind, since it is relatively simple (I have been known to remove, and replace mine in about 15 min) If I can get the vehicle there, I tend to do mine in the parking lot at the parts store. First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and make sure it is not resting in a manor to continue to provide an intermittent connection. If you do not still have the sticker showing you the belt routing attached to the vehicle take note of the route it takes before going any further. The tension pulley is on your left, with a small square hole. Insert your 3/8 in ratchet into this hole, and pull the left (counter clockwise). You should then be able to remove the belt. Then if you can get to them, remove the two wires attached to the alternator itself, one is a small plastic clip, the other a nut holding on a ring terminal. There are two bolts that need to be removed, one on the top left, one on the bottom left. Then you will need something to pry with to remove it, it will still be stuck. Simply pry it out being careful not to drop it. (remove any wires you haven't already removed at this time) Once it is out, you will be able to see the collars that the bolts were through, use the pry bar you used to remove the alternator to push the collars towards you so that you can get the new alternator in. Once you have the new alternator, you simply put it in place, tighten the bolts and connect the plastic clip, and the ring terminal. When you tighten the bolts that hold it in place, you will push the collars against the new alternator tightening it back up. Last, reconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

EMF or electromotive force, i.e.Voltage, is generated when the magnets inside the alternator turn within the wire coil of the alternator.

Could be anything electrical. Coil. Wires Grounding WELL any wire grounding out.

did you read your manual tun on engin in park run a min thein turn on ac for min

that or you need new wires

Adapted answer using part of cwa702's in depth directions: We just did this and found the previous answer (below) had unnecessary steps. There are two basic steps: 1. Do the normal removal of the top and bottom bolts holding the alternator to its brackets and then remove the wires. 2. This step provides you a way to get the alternator out of the vehicle. From under the vehicle,and without removing the driver's wheel, remove the 3 bolts on the carrier bearing bracket that holds the CV axle, then rotate the bracket out of the way. With a bit of wiggling and manuevering, you can drop the alternator through that space and out of the vehicle. Not too hard. You can lift the car body on the driver side allowing the left front wheel to drop to give you a little more space. We also had the front end lifted on ramps so we could lie under the front end on our back to remove the alternator. (DON'T FORGET: Never trust a hydraulic jack; always block up your vehicle with dunnage; not cinder blocks.) There was no need to remove the wheel or the CV short axle, as we, too, thought this simple task had pain in the... potential.

Previous in depth answer............. to replace an alterantor on this car is a pain in the you know what!! sounds like b.s. but this is what you do. 1-take front driverside wheel off

2-you have to take the drive shaft out of trans.(it takes a 30mm socket w/BREAKER BAR)believe me, this is for the bolt in the center of rotor you'll see it. 3-there is the sway bar and a couple of other things in the way you need to loosen to get out of the way(not necessarily take them off)

4-under the oil filter there is a bracket(3bolts) which holds the cv shaft in place(its part of the shaft) loosen those and once everything else is loose you should be able to pull the cv shaft out. trans. oil will leak be ready(be sure to have alternator already loose when you pull the shaft so you can pull shaft drop alternator throw the new one up there and replace shaft with spilling less oil as possible(ATF-Z1 find it at Honda or acura dealer $4) -- NOTE: [By Cerebralailment] This person doesn't know what there talking about. If oil is leaking when you pull the shaft that means your transmission seal is gone. I've pulled many shafts on Honda's & oil does not leak out of them. Also, the Honda transmission fluid is $10/qt.]

5-replace everything and have fun best of luck any questions email me cwa702@yahoo.com

1999 FORD EXPEDITION EDDIE BAUER 5.4 http://www.allenengine.com/03-exp-inst.html I recently replaced my alternator (05-28-06) it's not difficult. 1. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. 2. TAKE OFF THE PLASTIC COVER ON TOP OF THE ENGINE. (MINE HAS 5.4 PRINTED ON IT) REMOVE 3 SCREWS. 3. UNSCREWW THE HOSE CLAMP DIRECTLY UNDER THE COVER AND SLIDE OUT THE LARGE HOSE TO GIVE YOU ROOM TO WORK.(DO NOT UNSCREW TO MUCH) 4. UNCLAMP THE TOP RADIATOR HOSE AT THE RADIATOR, MOVE IT TO THE SIDE TO GIVE YU ROOM TO WORK. 5. THERE ARE THREE BOLTS HOLDING THE ALTERNATOR IN PLACE. ONE ON TOP AND TWO N THE BOTTOM. 6. TOOL NEEDED ARE #10 SOCKET TO LOOSEN ALL BOLTS AND A 1/2" TENSION BAR OR A 1/2" SOCKET. (IF YOU USE A SOCKET, YOU WILL NEED SOMETHING THAT WILL GIVE YOU LEVERAGE WHEN YOU PULL THE BACK ON THE PULLEY). 7. THE PULLEY IS LOCATED ON FRONT OF THE MOTOR, LOWER LEFT PULLEY WHEEL. IT HAS A 1/2" SQUARE IN THE CENTER ON IT FOR THE SOCKET. 8. PLACE THE SOCKET IN THE PULLEY AND PULL IT CLOCKWISE. (IT WILL BE HARD AT FIRST) 9. WITH TENSION OFF SLIP THE BELT OFF THE ALTERNATION. (REMEMBER NOT TO TAKE THE BELT COMPLETELY OFF. IF YOU DO, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A DIAGRAM ON REPLCAING YOUR BELT) THIS ALSO MAYBE A GOOD TIME TO CHECK YOUR BELT FOR DAMAGE. 10. USE THE #10 SOCKET TO REMOVE THE 2 LOWER SCREWS ON THE ALTERNATOR. 11. NEXT REMOVE TE TOP SCREW. AFTER YOU REMOVE THIS SCREW THE ALTERNATOR WILL FALL FREE. BE CARE AND HOLD IT BECAUSE THERE ARE 3 CONNECTION THAT WILL NEED TO BE DISCONNECT. 12. DISCONNECT THE LARGE CONNECTION TO THE RIGHT (pULL STRAIGHT UP), THEN DISCONNECT THE SMALLER CONNECTOR, THIS HAS A LITTLE CLIP THAT SNAPS INTO PLACE TO SECURE IT, I USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVE TO FLIP IT UP. (IT'S TRICKY BUT DO-ABLE) 13. LAST CONNECTION IS A SCREW. THERE IS A RUBBER COVER OVER THE LAST SCREW, (YES IT'S A #10 SOCKET) REMOVE THE SCREW, BECAREFUL TO SAVE ALL SCREWS JST INCASE YOU DROP ONE, YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH SCREWS. 14. SLIDE OUT THE ALTERNATOR WITH CARE. 15. REPLACE WITH NEW ALTERNATOR BY REVERSING THESE INSTRUCTIONS. 16. I HOPE THIS WILL HELP. There is a tensioner just below and to the left of the alternator. You can take a large rachet with out a socket on it and connect it to the side of the tensioner, pull twards you and it should loosen the belt enough for you to slip it off. The tensioner is spring loaded so you have to hold it while you take the belt off. After that remove the two or three bolts and all wires connecting the alternator and it should come right out.

Sounds Like You Have Something Staying On, Or A Positive Wire Grounded Bad. I`m Supprised You Do Not See Smoke As Your Question Would Indicate. Remove And Charge Your Battery. Or If It Has A Fair Charge In It Try This. Purchase A Test Light In A Parts Store Looks Like An Ice Pick With A Screwdricer Handle And Wire On It. Remove The Negative Battery Cable. Install The Tester Between The Battery And Cable End. If The Light Comes On Something Is Pulling Voltage. Remove Hood Bulb ( the one that gives light over the engine when hood is raised ). Shut All Doors Turn Off Ignition And All Items That Are On. If The Light Is Still On You Will Have To Search Out The Wiring To Find The Cause. When You Find It The Test Light Will Go Out. Good Luck

it can rotate in reverse, but it might not charge.

Poor answer above. In fact, dozens of real-world examples can be found on the net proving that alternators can run either direction with virtually no difference at all in output or function. If rotated the "wrong" direction with respect to the built in fan a minor reduction in cooling could eventually affect performance, but only if the charging situation involved a prolonged operation at the highest amperage output. This would typically only happen if the alternator was being used externally to an automobile, such as running off a lawn mower engine for charging a large battery bank, etc.