Alternators

Adapted answer using part of cwa702's in depth directions: We just did this and found the previous answer (below) had unnecessary steps. There are two basic steps: 1. Do the normal removal of the top and bottom bolts holding the alternator to its brackets and then remove the wires. 2. This step provides you a way to get the alternator out of the vehicle. From under the vehicle,and without removing the driver's wheel, remove the 3 bolts on the carrier bearing bracket that holds the CV axle, then rotate the bracket out of the way. With a bit of wiggling and manuevering, you can drop the alternator through that space and out of the vehicle. Not too hard. You can lift the car body on the driver side allowing the left front wheel to drop to give you a little more space. We also had the front end lifted on ramps so we could lie under the front end on our back to remove the alternator. (DON'T FORGET: Never trust a hydraulic jack; always block up your vehicle with dunnage; not cinder blocks.) There was no need to remove the wheel or the CV short axle, as we, too, thought this simple task had pain in the... potential.

Previous in depth answer............. to replace an alterantor on this car is a pain in the you know what!! sounds like b.s. but this is what you do. 1-take front driverside wheel off

2-you have to take the drive shaft out of trans.(it takes a 30mm socket w/BREAKER BAR)believe me, this is for the bolt in the center of rotor you'll see it. 3-there is the sway bar and a couple of other things in the way you need to loosen to get out of the way(not necessarily take them off)

4-under the oil filter there is a bracket(3bolts) which holds the cv shaft in place(its part of the shaft) loosen those and once everything else is loose you should be able to pull the cv shaft out. trans. oil will leak be ready(be sure to have alternator already loose when you pull the shaft so you can pull shaft drop alternator throw the new one up there and replace shaft with spilling less oil as possible(ATF-Z1 find it at Honda or acura dealer $4) -- NOTE: [By Cerebralailment] This person doesn't know what there talking about. If oil is leaking when you pull the shaft that means your transmission seal is gone. I've pulled many shafts on Honda's & oil does not leak out of them. Also, the Honda transmission fluid is $10/qt.]

5-replace everything and have fun best of luck any questions email me cwa702@yahoo.com

1999 FORD EXPEDITION EDDIE BAUER 5.4 http://www.allenengine.com/03-exp-inst.html I recently replaced my alternator (05-28-06) it's not difficult. 1. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. 2. TAKE OFF THE PLASTIC COVER ON TOP OF THE ENGINE. (MINE HAS 5.4 PRINTED ON IT) REMOVE 3 SCREWS. 3. UNSCREWW THE HOSE CLAMP DIRECTLY UNDER THE COVER AND SLIDE OUT THE LARGE HOSE TO GIVE YOU ROOM TO WORK.(DO NOT UNSCREW TO MUCH) 4. UNCLAMP THE TOP RADIATOR HOSE AT THE RADIATOR, MOVE IT TO THE SIDE TO GIVE YU ROOM TO WORK. 5. THERE ARE THREE BOLTS HOLDING THE ALTERNATOR IN PLACE. ONE ON TOP AND TWO N THE BOTTOM. 6. TOOL NEEDED ARE #10 SOCKET TO LOOSEN ALL BOLTS AND A 1/2" TENSION BAR OR A 1/2" SOCKET. (IF YOU USE A SOCKET, YOU WILL NEED SOMETHING THAT WILL GIVE YOU LEVERAGE WHEN YOU PULL THE BACK ON THE PULLEY). 7. THE PULLEY IS LOCATED ON FRONT OF THE MOTOR, LOWER LEFT PULLEY WHEEL. IT HAS A 1/2" SQUARE IN THE CENTER ON IT FOR THE SOCKET. 8. PLACE THE SOCKET IN THE PULLEY AND PULL IT CLOCKWISE. (IT WILL BE HARD AT FIRST) 9. WITH TENSION OFF SLIP THE BELT OFF THE ALTERNATION. (REMEMBER NOT TO TAKE THE BELT COMPLETELY OFF. IF YOU DO, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A DIAGRAM ON REPLCAING YOUR BELT) THIS ALSO MAYBE A GOOD TIME TO CHECK YOUR BELT FOR DAMAGE. 10. USE THE #10 SOCKET TO REMOVE THE 2 LOWER SCREWS ON THE ALTERNATOR. 11. NEXT REMOVE TE TOP SCREW. AFTER YOU REMOVE THIS SCREW THE ALTERNATOR WILL FALL FREE. BE CARE AND HOLD IT BECAUSE THERE ARE 3 CONNECTION THAT WILL NEED TO BE DISCONNECT. 12. DISCONNECT THE LARGE CONNECTION TO THE RIGHT (pULL STRAIGHT UP), THEN DISCONNECT THE SMALLER CONNECTOR, THIS HAS A LITTLE CLIP THAT SNAPS INTO PLACE TO SECURE IT, I USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVE TO FLIP IT UP. (IT'S TRICKY BUT DO-ABLE) 13. LAST CONNECTION IS A SCREW. THERE IS A RUBBER COVER OVER THE LAST SCREW, (YES IT'S A #10 SOCKET) REMOVE THE SCREW, BECAREFUL TO SAVE ALL SCREWS JST INCASE YOU DROP ONE, YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH SCREWS. 14. SLIDE OUT THE ALTERNATOR WITH CARE. 15. REPLACE WITH NEW ALTERNATOR BY REVERSING THESE INSTRUCTIONS. 16. I HOPE THIS WILL HELP. There is a tensioner just below and to the left of the alternator. You can take a large rachet with out a socket on it and connect it to the side of the tensioner, pull twards you and it should loosen the belt enough for you to slip it off. The tensioner is spring loaded so you have to hold it while you take the belt off. After that remove the two or three bolts and all wires connecting the alternator and it should come right out.

Sounds Like You Have Something Staying On, Or A Positive Wire Grounded Bad. I`m Supprised You Do Not See Smoke As Your Question Would Indicate. Remove And Charge Your Battery. Or If It Has A Fair Charge In It Try This. Purchase A Test Light In A Parts Store Looks Like An Ice Pick With A Screwdricer Handle And Wire On It. Remove The Negative Battery Cable. Install The Tester Between The Battery And Cable End. If The Light Comes On Something Is Pulling Voltage. Remove Hood Bulb ( the one that gives light over the engine when hood is raised ). Shut All Doors Turn Off Ignition And All Items That Are On. If The Light Is Still On You Will Have To Search Out The Wiring To Find The Cause. When You Find It The Test Light Will Go Out. Good Luck

it can rotate in reverse, but it might not charge.

Poor answer above. In fact, dozens of real-world examples can be found on the net proving that alternators can run either direction with virtually no difference at all in output or function. If rotated the "wrong" direction with respect to the built in fan a minor reduction in cooling could eventually affect performance, but only if the charging situation involved a prolonged operation at the highest amperage output. This would typically only happen if the alternator was being used externally to an automobile, such as running off a lawn mower engine for charging a large battery bank, etc.

dismount the a/c compressor

It most certainly could. Most new cars use a single belt to run the "accessories" like the alternator, AC compressor, power steering and...the water pump. With no belt, no coolant is flowing through the engine and into the radiator and the car will quickly overheat.

A generator produces alternating current.

The alternator is one of the simple components on a Taurus - 3 bolts hold it on, and only 2 wire connections.

Diagrams though can be found at places like Autozone.com's Repair Guide, hard-copy of a service manuals, etc.

One diagram that does come in handy is the serpentine belt, aka accessory drive belt, routing. One of the "Related Questions" below will provide links to online serpentine belt routing diagrams.

No. The engine computer is the voltage regulator on a Dodge Neon.

If it is the belt that drives the alternator, then yes. In many cars, the serpentine belt (the huge, long belt that most think is the "belt" in their car) drives the alternator, and so if it's loose or slipping, will cause the alternator to run sporadically, which will result in a battery that doesn't retain a charge like it should.

What steps are involved in changing an alternator on a 2002 dodge grand caravan?

I think it has a serpentine belt,at least mine does

You can put a 15mm wrench on the tensioner and pull it toward you, the belt will slide right off.

It depends on where the wire is being connected on the alternator. It could be the alternator or it could be a damaged wire or connector. It's something that you will need to track down.

Changing an alternator isn't GENERALLY a difficult process. I'd estimate around an hour of labor - so whatever they charge per hour plus the cost of the alternator. Possibly a couple a hundred bucks.

You can drive as long as the battery holds up, so don't use any accessories, lights, heater, radio and such. Try to get to a garage or home as soon as possible.

My AstroVan wont start & the neg blk wire on battery is coming up POS

On all Quest models 2003 and prior, as you're facing the van from the front, the alternator is on the left side. It is towards the back, down about arms length.

yes i think cause the battrie runs of the alternator

for what its worth, the 100 amp fuse is located at the battery. you'll need an 8mm for the positive side of the fuse, and a 10mm for the negative side. the fuse is encapsulated in a plastic shell, that you can pry open on the positive side, and has clips on the negative side. take a pic, or take good notes when you remove the wires, as i didn't. i figure that both the wires held with the 10mm are negative; but, one has a stripe. not sure if I'll be lookin for another fuse if i miswire this.

Overtightening the belt, damaged or mis-aligned pulleys. Also, if you're getting a grinding noise while the engine is running, one of bearings in a pulley could be bad.

you need to get a tool referred to as a "syrpentene belt wrench" you can rent them from most auto zones, or pick one up for about 25 bucks.

depends on what way you are testing it but you either have a bad connection between the alternator and the battery or your battery is bad and cant hold the charge what voltage are you getting