What is the cost of an alternator for a 2002 Hyundai Sonata?
Try calling your local auto parts store.
4 cylinder engine with core charge it could be around $272.00 + tax.
6 cylinder is more like $348.00 So again Try calling your local auto parts store. Hope This Helps.
if it's like a Honda you have to pull the wheel & cv axle then it comes out no prob
How do you replace the alternator on a 1988 Honda Civic DX?
the best way is to bring it up and back along the firewall accross the back of engine to the right side and up by air filter out of the car.
How do you replace the alternator on a Chevy Astro?
On all the Astro/Safari vans I've seen, the alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine.
Recommended tools:
If you elect to use a 1/4-inch-drive ratchet in lieu of the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, limit its use to 10mm-or-smaller sockets: the threaded fasteners in this application having larger heads require greater torque than can be safely and reliably applied using 1/4-inch-drive hardware.
Read this entire procedure first, then decide whether this is a project for you to attempt.
There are significant minor differences to the specific procedures involved, to wit:
(1) Always observe all applicable safety procedures.
(2) Disconnect the cable from the positive (+) battery terminal. For some vans, you will need an 8mm socket or wrench; for others, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench.
(3) The power steering reservoir is in the way on vans having the Z-code engine: leaving the hoses attached and avoiding tipping of the reservoir, remove and save the screws that hold the reservoir to the cowl; then bend the hoses and rest the reservoir on the driver's side of the radiator shroud.
The air filter box is in the way on vans having the W-code engine. Open the clamps that seal the box, remove the filter: the nuts and bolts holding the airbox in place are visible. Remove the airbox, saving the hardware.
(4) The ductwork supplying the engine with fresh air is in the way. Usually, these plastic pieces just click together, but there may be one or more clamps, nuts and/or bolts, or screws holding some of it in place. The offending portion consists of the following pieces:
(a) the lower part that turns the air about 90-degrees, so that the air flows upwards,
(b) the upright section that channels the air upwards (it looks like an accordion's bellows on the Z-code engine),
(c) the upper ductwork connecting the upright section with the air filter housing.
I have heard that some ductwork installations are secured using #2 Phillips threaded fasteners (screws); if yours is such an application, you will also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
(5) Remove serpentine belt. The ratcheting tool that looks like a long, flat handle -- it came with the vehicle as part of the lug wrench kit -- has an opening that fits the pulley on the tensioner. Using the tool, loosen the tensioner with one hand and slip the belt off using the other hand.
At this point, whether you need to remove the fan from the front of the engine should be obvious. If you must, be aware that so doing without removing the shroud really isn't going to give you much room (about 1/2 an inch, maybe an inch).
If you need more than that, the shroud has to come off so that you can remove the fan. Although at 13.5 inches (34.3mm) circumference and 14.5 inches (37.9mm) circumference respectively, my forearms and upper arms are rather small, I think that needing to remove the fan to have enough room is a highly unlikely condition.
(6) Remove the engine oil dipstick bracket from the stud holding the alternator to the bracket. The nut securing the dipstick bracket is probably a 10mm. Remove the dipstick bracket from the stud. Be aware the dipstick tube could slide from the engine.
(7) The alternator bracket should be loosened from the front of the engine. Remove the bolts (it should be a trio of 14mm bolts) and save them. This allows the bracket, tensioner and alternator to be tilted away from the engine. At least one bolt may be wet with engine coolant; seal the threads of any such bolt before reinstalling it.
(8) Use an appropriate tool to unclip the plug from the alternator (I used a "butter knife), and remove the red wire from the lug at the back of the alternator. The nut securing the red wire to the alternator is probably a 10mm; the stud in the alternator is probably a 15mm (menitoned just in case the new one needs snugging).
(9) Remove the bolt from the rear of the old alternator holding it to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the stud holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the "hinge" bolt holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm bolt screwed into a 15mm nut).
Installation of the new unit is done by reversing the steps of disassembly.
SAFETY NOTES: Be aware that there can exist pinch hazards during this procedure. Also be aware of the possible hazard of falling tools and/or debris.
Helpful hint: if possible, have someone else hold the bracket/alternator/tensioner assembly in-place while you start the lower 14mm bolt by hand from underneath the passenger side. This makes installing the upper bolts much easier.
Start ALL the bolts before tightening any of them. Generally, it goes pretty quickly if you begin with the "all bolts finger-tight, then all bolts hand (wrench/socket) tight, then all bolts torqued" method.
NOTE: Conspicuously dexterous people may not have to remove the alternator bracket, but in my opinion, the procedure is much easier if this is done. You should never have to remove the doghouse (engine cover inside the van) to replace the alternator. If a mechanic told you he/she did it that way, you should be going to a different mechanic.
How do you change a 3 wire gm alternator to a one wire?
ALL ALTERNATORS NEED TO BE "FLASHED" TO PRODUCE POWER. BIG TRUCK ALTERNATORS ARE BUILT WITH AUTOMATIC FLASHING, SO YOU NEED TO ONLY CONNECT THE OUTPUT STUD TO THE BATTERY. SMALL AUTO ALTERNATORS, USUALLY HAVE TO BE FLASHED EXTERNALY. THAT IS, POWER MUST BE APPLIED MOMENTARILY TO START THEM CHARGING. ON DELCO UNITS, THERE ARE TWO SMALL TERMINALS ON THE TOP. ONE IS A FEEDBACK THAT CONTROLS THE REGULATOR. IT SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY, BUT IT IS COMMON TO JUST HOOK IT TO THE OUTPUT STUD. THE OTHER ONE IS THE FLASH TERMINAL. HOOK IT TO THE IGNITION. THE CATCH IS THAT THIS TERMINAL PRODUCES POWER, AND THE ENGINE WILL CONTINUE TO RUN WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED OFF. YOU CAN STOP THIS BY PUTTING A DIODE IN THE CIRCUIT. REMEMBER THAT A DIODE IS A ONE WAY DEVICE, AND IF IT DOESNT WORK, TURN IT AROUND. THE FLASH TERMINAL MUST BE BELOW OUTPUT VOLTAGE, OR THE REGULATOR WILL NOT WORK. ABOUT 4.5 VOLTS IS REQUIRED, AND A 8 OHM RESISTOR IN SERIES WITH THE DIODE IS REQUIRED. A AUTOMOTIVE LIGHT BULB IS IN THE 6 TO 8 OHM RANGE, AND WORKS FINE. THIS IS WHY CARS HAVE IDIOT LITES FOR THE ALTERNATOR. ITS CHEAPER THAN HAVING AN IGNITION SWITCH WITH TWO ING. TEMINALS. EARLY CARS DIDN'T. AND FEEDBACK THRU THE IDIOT LITE KEPT THE IGNITION POWERED JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP THE ENGINE STUMBLING ALONG FOR SEVERAL SECONDS. HOPE THIS HELPS.
Hoow do you change the alternator on a 1996 Lincoln continental?
when trying to change alternator in my 1995 Lincoln continental but metal pipes seem to be in the way how do you get around them
Can you use a different year alternator on a 95 dodge neon sport?
No you can't! I recently baught a peice for my 97 Neon but the new peice was for a 98! the Wire harness is difrent so beware!
What does it cost to replace an alternator for a 2002 Saturn L200?
There will be a big cost variation for replacing an alternator.
Basically there are three things that you'll pay for:
1. The replacement alternator. A rebuilt alternator may include new bearings, brushes, diode plate and voltage regulator, depending on who did the work. If the rebuild process was done correctly, a rebuilt alternator can be just as good as a new one, but you have to be careful where you get it. Rebuilt is much cheaper and are often guaranteed for the life of the vehicle. A rebuilt alternator can typically be purchased for somewhere near $100.
2. Labor. It shouldn't take much more than an hour to remove and replace an alternator. Shop rates vary from one place to another, but plan on spending somewhere between $75 and $100 for labor unless you are able to do it yourself. If you do it yourself it will probably take longer than 1 hour though.
3. Markup/profit. Depending on the shop, there may be some significant mark-up on the parts. Often they will double the parts cost and charge "shop fees", which is actually them passing on the cost of having used oil picked up, shop rags, worker uniform cleaning and other related costs of doing business. Markup/profit is typically hidden in the bill, somewhere in the other prices.
How do you replace a 1996 Nissan pickup alternator?
go to auto zone.com and enter your vehicle year ,make and engine size and look up alternator,then to right of screen click on repair guide,
How do you replace the alternator on a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo?
The alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine near the bottom. I found it is easiest to remove it from inside the wheel well. There should be 2 bolts holding it to the alternator bracket that mounts to the block. Unbolting the alternator and them disconnecting the wires running to it is easiest. Installation is the reverse of the removal.
How do you wire an alternator on a 1980 Trans Am?
there should be an alternator "plug" which consists of 2 wires that go to a plastic plug that snaps into the alternator. the wire lead should be a part of the engine wire harness located on drivers side firewall about 1 1/2 feet below wiper deck. the alternator itself has a screw off back side that can be removed for internal wiring issues related solely to the alternator itself. i would buy a manual from your local auto parts store (or order it in) for the 80 TA it should have a diagram for the alternator wiring with an exploded view.
Why does your battery light not work and your alternator not charging on a Nissan 300zx?
sound like you have a bad alternator. it will kill the battery.
Is it possible to recharge NiMH batteries with an automotive alternator?
as the alternator itself is just...."an alternator", you'll need a regulator suitable for such kind of batteries.
Maybe you want to recharge AA batteries using cigar outlet on your car?
What are the 1988 Acura Integra alternator removal steps?
Remove the Oil Filter and remove the Alt. through there. It will take some twisting and turning to get it out and In but it'll work
How do you replace the alternator on a 1997 Nissan Sentra?
I did it on a 95 (97 should be similar). You start by removing negative battery post, removing radiator fan that's close to the alternator, and move away any little hose(s) and/or wires around it to gain access to the alternator.
Loosen the locknut on the adjuster, then you can turn the adjuster and the alternator belt will come loose. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts (2 of them), alternator will come out. Installation is the reverse.
It's very tight in there doing this way, but you don't need to jack up anything, or removing anything major. Patience, good tools, and little bit of time. New (not rebuilt) alternator will cost around $110 shipped.
1996 Sentra: Just did it. Did not remove radiator fans but removed bracket (1 12mm bolt) that has the cable tie-down and top bolt of alternator. '96 does not
have any adjustments on the alternator, as in for belt tightening. I ended up removing the idler pulley to loosen the belt. There are two (2) bolts on the bottom, one of which is tough to see or access. I removed the overflow reservoir for coolant just so I could see it.
Going back in, I almost needed an assistant to start the top bolt, as I applied force to get the alternator in position. Patience advice is good; try to start before 3:30 PM if you want to finish the same day.
I just did this on a 97 Sentra. It is a big pain. That alternator is really hard to get to. You have to remove the radiator fan...You also need to remove the coolant hose and the bracket that holds your wires in place. The bolts on the bottom are really hard to get to and maneuver around and are tight as hell. It is very tight quarters in there. Hard to loosen anything. Once you get all your bolts out, and remove the belt (which can be done by simply loosening the alternator and rocking it back and forth to release tension) you really need to work that thing back and forth to get it out. And it is very tight trying to get it out of there. Installation is basically the opposite. Getting the belt back on is the hardest part. There is a tension rod on the lower left side (looking at the engine) w/ an 8mm bolt on it. ONce again very hard to get to and work on w/ tools. This needs to be loosened in order to set the tension for re-installing the belt. Took a long time and a lot of muscling to get the belt back on there. Once it's on tighten that adjuster rod and make sure yer belt is tight. Replace everything and you're good to go. All in all, frustrating and poorly designed. Patience and small hands will help you out alot.
I just changed the alternator on a '96 Sentra - day one involved removal of old alternator - passenger side fan and overflow tank had to be removed. I left the rad hose as-is. The used $75 CDN alternator from recycler was not exactly the same. After a few frustrating hours trying to get the "new" one in, I realized that the casting boss near the idler was about half an inch wider, therefore the original 14 mm/M10 bolt was about half an inch too short. I went to a fastener store, bought a 40 mm long M10 bolt and thought I was in business, until realizing that the same thicker boss was also contacting the threads of the tensioner rod. A few minutes of filing off some material off the bottom of the boss provided the clearance required to no longer contact the tensioner bolt. As well, the tensioner was stuck in place, making belt replacement impossible. The alternator had to be removed again, the tensioner pulley 14 mm bolt loosened so that the pulley could be slid in its slot. We put the belt back on, and tightened the 14 mm tensioner pulley bolt, then the 8 mm tensioner rod and then the 14 mm tensioner set screw bolt. Frustrating, yes, but mostly because the replacement alternator wasn't exactly the same, so double check before installing. It will likely still work, but may need some minor modification.
You have a current draw from a accessory on your car. The hard part is where is it? I usually pull fuses/connectors/circuit breakers and look for a spark when reinstalling them. I do this because a current draw is a circuit and when you break that circuit it will cause a small spark.It sounds like you have a heavy draw so I would still suspect the alternator as it has a hot lead even when the ignition switch is off and so does the headight switch...check em out......
How do you replace the alternator on a 1996 Geo Tracker 1.6L?
take a 3/8" ratchet, insert it into the square piece of the tension pulley till it loosens the belt enough to slip it off the pulley for the alternator, take out the bolts holding the alternator to the bracket, unplug the wires, and reverse to put new one on.
How do you put an alternator on your Buick park ave?
First you take the serpentine belt off lay it out of the way to take the belt off get a wrench and put it on the tensioner pully"use the wrench to loosen tension on the belt then you can remove the belt. Next loosen the bolts put them in a container so you won't loose them.Then lift the old alternator and take the wire loose from it. then to install your new alternator do everything in reverse remember that putting the belt back on can be tricky at first but it gets easier once you did it a few times take the alternator attach the wires you can't get them missed up because they have a special connector that won't fit in any other places on the alternator.Then set the alternator in place"Put the bolts in tighten them then put the belt on By loosining the tension on the tensioner pully using a wrench just place the wrench on the bolt and pull up the pullyshould come up as we'll then place the belt on the pully and release the wrench make sure the belt is completly on the pullies because if they are'nt when you start the car they will slip off believe me it happend to me once on my buick electra park avenue. The engine is out in it now but I have another engine I just got to get it put in. I hope My information was of help to you.
Is a check preprinted with void in 90 days still good after 90 days?
citizens bank told me on the phone that "void after 90 days" will notstop the bank from cashing any check. You would have to cancel the check in order for it not to be cashed. so it is an empty threat.
What could be the problem if your car starts but the alternator does not fully charge the battery?
In this situation it's probably a bad alternator. The brushes could be worn out. Are you sure it's your alternator? To check, start your vehicle and put a volt meter across the terminals on your batter ( pos to pos, neg to neg ). You should read from 12 to 14 volts. If it is lower your alternator may be bad. Also check that you have no shorts in your main battery cable. To do this, disconnect your battery (negative cable first ) and put the positive lead of your ohm meter to the disconnected positive cable and the negative lead to ground ( your disconnected neg cable will do ). You should read infinite resistance; if not a short may be causing your battery to lose a charge. If neither of these things is the problem your battery may be going bad and not holding a charge. To test this pull it and put it on a trickle charger. Most battery chargers will warn tell you if the battery is bad. If you leave it on a slow charge and don't see a higher voltage in 2 hours your battery is probably bad. Most part stores will test your alternator and battery for free but you will have to take them out and to the store.
If the engine doesn't turn over at all there are a few things that are possible. Start with the battery ground cable and make sure it is making a good ground and is not broken. Also check the positive cable from the battery to make sure you have a good connection and no breaks in the wire. If these are both good you may need to replace the starter motor. There are brushes inside the starter (yes they can be replaced if you know how to take the starter apart) that will grind down to the point of not making enough contact to start your car. Since you said you had the alternator replaced I'm thinking it probably is the starter because any competent mechanic would have checked the battery cables before replacing the alternator.
The Alternator is a component that acts like an electrical generator, charging a battery and powering necessary electrical systems. They are usually used in place of generators because they are lighter in weight, simpler to operate, and produce alternating current.
Why does the alternator light stay on after replacing alternator and battery?
Test the output terminal on the back of your alternator it should be the same as at your battery if it is more (engine running) or less (engine not running) by more then .2 of a volt check that wire for a burnt out fuseable link section or check underhood fuse box for a blown fuse (generally about 120amp fuse). allso unplug the regulator plug from your alternator and with your ignition key in the "Run" position (engine stopped) you should have atleast 1 if not 2 terminals (depends on aplication) in the plug end coming from your vehicals wiring harness powered. if not check fuses and these wires for breaks.
Check for fuel pressure and or spark, you need 3 thing's to make a engine work,1. compression 2. fuel 3. spark. If one of those thing's are missing your engine will not start.