Car Stalling Problems

You idle air control valve is having a problem as well as carbon build up in the engine. Part store chemicals won't event make a dent in the carbon. Go to your Ford dealer. It will cost about $500.

I believe that the cam sensor is an integral part of the distributor so I am assuming that you replaced that. I am also assuming that you purchased a NEW unit and not a REBUILT unit as you aren't a mechanic and know that you would not recognize a defective part. I also assume that by "losing spark" you mean that sometimes it has spark and that at other times it does not.

You may have a poor connection at an electrical connector. Check especially at the crank sensor and at the PCM.

You may have a dirty or bent crank sensor exciter wheel tooth (part of torque converter.)

You may have installed a defective new part. This happens. Also, with electronic parts, sometimes a cheapskate with tendencies toward acts of fraud will purchase a new part and return the old broken part to the retailer (dupe) as a new part for full refund which will then be resold to another unsuspecting motorist or mechanic who just might be you.

You might have a bit of corrosion at a fuse. Try wiggling each and every fuse one at a time while one assistant turns the key to crank the engine and another assistant watches the spark tester.

If your 1999 VW Bug's engine cuts off when it gets hot, you might have an issue with bad gas or with the distributor. Electrical problems will often appear at operating temperature. You could also have an issue with the oxygen sensors.

check the vaccum hose that connects the egr valve to the engine,i had the same problem every time i went to stop,slow down or let my foot off the gas it would die quickly.i replaced the egr vacuum hose line and the problem went away,also get a can of throttle body cleaner spry it in open the throttle plate ,wipe it out and spray a few more shots to make sure that it is good and clean,makes a hell of a difference..also check your breather hoses for any air leaks,one goes from side of throtlle body to pass side valve cover and the other goes from dr side valve cover to the pcv valve.a few seconds can bring the vehicle back to its old self again..

it means your emergency brake, or hand brake is set. if the brake is released, check cables and sensor. could also be the switch or sensor.

its a electronic piece in the key push ron area in the steering collum the key rod connectes it to complete the electric curcuit circle if it cracked it will cause it to shut down and restart by itself..

I think you should sell stuff like ; Friendship braclets , bookmarks ,old toys in good condition ect.

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem (possibly fuel pump) or a clogged fuel filter. Try checking the vacuum lines. I own a 92 Cadillac Seville and the exact same thing happens. It makes me want to drive it off a cliff. I thought it could be a clogged throttle body so I spent about 3 hours cleaning it and no result. If you ever figure out this problem please tell me what it was. car is starting up sometimes when has been running a while on restart 94 jetta what could be the problem? Try adjusting your idle speed. We own a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee that had the same thing happen. It ended up being a bad alternator, not what i was expecting but if you cant think of anything else give that a shot.

I am experiencing a similar problem with my 1999 Subaru Impreza. Generally when my car sits for a day or the temperature drops, the car will sputter upon startup until I push on the gas pedal. Sometimes it will even stall during this sputter. Basically it sounds like it has a fuel starvation problem upon startup on colder days. My check engine light finally came on and it turned out to be a problem with my Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). I took it apart and sprayed it with brake parts cleaner. I haven't had a problem since.

either fuel is not being delivered to combustion chamber or ignition system cutting out eliminate one system and go to work on the system that's causing trouble

is the recall on crankshaft sensor still valid

A bad intake manifold or manifold gasket can cause water to leak into the oil. Some newer cars have plastic manifolds and they will crack from age.

If you put the plug wires on wrong, absolutely.

Make sure coolant level is correct Check to see if cooling fan is working if so equipped Check radiator cap Radiator may be clogged Air flow through radiator may be restricted Water pump not working properly? Thernmostat not opening fully

Your ignition timing is probably too far advanced.. This means that the the position of the distributor is allowing the ignition to fire before it should. If you aren't familiar with how to do this it should be done by a mechanic. take a look at this link for a better understanding. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing hth

it's the idle control valve, $60 part, or the computer.

You engine is probably misfiring. Check your ignition and fuel systems.

On the cylinder heads between the valve cover and intake manifold

Yes, the signal to the PCM can be wrongfully perceived as low coolant, even if the car is full of anti-freeze.

I have a 1992 Tempo that was stalling all the time after it warmed up. I found out there was a class-action lawsuit against Ford for defective design/location of the TFI modules because they malfunction when they get hot. By court order, Ford extended the warranty on these TFI modules to 100,000 miles, regardless of age or resale. My local Ford Dealer ordered a replacement from the Obsolete Parts department at Ford and installed it all at no charge.

I had an 85 cj-7 doing the same thing. i changed the catalytic converter and problem solved. You may want to try it. The catalytic converter can become plugged or restricted.

Year, make, model and engine would help but, a bad timing belt or a bad fuel pump could do that.

Engines need 3 elements to run. Air, fuel, and ignition. Confirm all the components in the fuel delivery system are working correctly: Pump, filter, injectors. Then confirm you are getting spark to your spark plugs. If no spark, check the coil, Ignition control module, pick-up coil (if applicable), and distributor cap and rotor. If you do have spark, make sure the spark plugs are not fouled. Engines almost always have enough air to run unless the air filter gets extremely plugged. If you have all 3 elements at the times it stalls, the air-fuel mixture could be getting affected by something like a vacuum leak, bad sensor(s) (O2, MAP, MAF, TPS and possibly others depending on the car) or physical buildup in the air delivery components. Your question is extremely general. Turning the key off will also cause an engine to stall.