Car Starting Problems

henry ford i think.

saME THING HAPPENED TO MINE, I FOUND LOOSE WIRE GOING DIRECTLY INTO STARTER, GIVE IT A PUSH AND SNUG ITY UP

Sometimes the engine will stop at tdc(top dead center). Remove the round plastic cover (4 bolts) over the fan and flywheel. Turn the fan by hand a little bit and try starter. If this is the problem the engine will turn via the starter.

you need to email me directly, i bet i can help fix it, probably had the same problem on my 76 360. mazurlaser@aol.com

depends on what is wrong with it you may need a new engine to fix it

sound like a weak battery or bad battery cables.. have your battery load tested sears auto zone should do it free if battery is more then 4 years your on borrowed time anyway

the timing,air hoses,relay switch maybe.

The engine compartment fuse and relay box in a 1993 Ford Tempo is on the fender wall. It is located on the same side as the battery.

Is there spark at the plus? is there fuel pressure to the injectors?

I did have the same problem but found that after inserting the key into ignition I deed to wait +/- 3 seconds and I can hear the start relay (on the relay pannel) click in. If I do not hear this relay click in the car just does not start (No spark from the electronic coil to the distributor).

Most likely a malfunctioning VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) component. Your ignition key most likely has a pellet embedded on it (it's just a resistor, not a microchip) which makes contact with two contacts inside the ignition switch. This is the most common point of failure. When the contacts get dirty or wear out, the security system can't read the value of the resistor on your key, and will disable the starter and fuel pump for 4 minutes. After 4 minutes (when the light stops flashing) you can try to start the car again, but if the contacts are damaged badly enough, you'll never get your car started. The most simple fix is cleaning your key, trying a different key, and cleaning the contacts in the switch. If that doesn't help, the proper way to fix the problem is to replace the ignition switch, but this can be expensive. Here is a link to an article describing how to bypass the lock and key altogether, as long as you don't mind cutting some wires. http://vats.likeabigdog.com

About 2 seconds after key on, the asd relay shuts off it the computer doesn't see a crank sensor signal. So unless the engine is running or cranking the coil supply volts will turn off.

It could be poor battery connections, the starter,

Uh oh this could be trouble. First find the large bolt on the front of the crankshaft pulley and see if you can manually turn the motor over. Don't go gorilla on it just enough to make sure the engine isn't seized. If you get too carried away you could damage the valve train if your timing is off. Once you have determined that the engine is not seized, remove the spark plugs and try it again. There may be water or oil in the cylinders from a broken head or head gasket causing a hydraulic lock.

Most often you will probably find a broken timing belt and either the belt has jambed the engine or you have a piston in contact with a valve. If the piston has hit a valve you can be sure you will also have a bent valve stem. Good luck. I sincerely hope it isn't too serious.

idle solinoid is broken or the power wire is not powered or pluged in. common on those carbys

I would suspect you have blown a head gasket. Check for coolant in the oil. A compression test will verify if you indeed have a blown gasket. ==ANOTHER ANSWER== When an engine overheats you run the risk of causing serious damage. You'll need to run a compression test to find out if the head gasket has been blown. Overheating can result in a warped head which causes the gasket to fail. If you have low compression in any of the cylinders but especially any two adjacent cylinders, you will need to pull the head.

yes thanks

Under the dashboard at the driver side, attached to the left side frame.

Defective ignition switch.

More than likely you have a bad ignition switch however your anti-theft system could still enabled.

Firstly, check to see if the alarm module wires are okay, which is located behind the headlight switch. Then check the drivers door unlock switch from inside the door. You will have to remove the door pannel from the inside of the door to reach it. Check the wiring and the plastic cover on the connectors. If they are brittle, have them replaced, the connections are worn and there may be a short in it, because it is exposed to the outside enviroment. Poor materials won't last very long in exposed sections of a car, or water seepage from within the lock cylinders. If everything is fine, check the wires with a Multi-Meter, and set it for continuity. You will know if there is no connection. If a wire is broken from the door switch to the module, you need to run a replacement wire. Also, lastlym, check the door jam, where the rubber boot is located near the hinge of the door, to see if you find any breaks in the wire there, or a wire is grounding out on the frame.

Typically this signifies that your starter motor has either jammed, or is faulty. To check that it has not jammed, give it a whack on the end with a small hammer, or fairly large wrench. If that does the trick, then the starter motor was jammed, if not, you need a replacement starter motor.

clean the battery terminals - strong wire brush or a little baking soda & water.

Cranks and turn over are the same thing. It may crank or turn over and not start. If that is the case, find out if it needs fire or fuel and go from there.

Check your timing belt, harmonic balancer and the either two or three belts that connect to the harmonic balancer