Car Starting Problems

I have the same problem with my 95'. I don't think its the ignition module, try to clean the battery clams with battery cleaner or might even have to change them. I think there is a guage on the dash that desplays the battarie power, check that if it jumps when u give it a little throttle then it probobly has something to do with battary. If this is not the problem i think you should just sell this car because you will have way more problems(trust me i know) and it eats fuel like a monster...(says it gets 16-18mpg on normal conditions, but trust me, it eats fuel)

****Also if your car is making some noises when it is off, this means the compressor is on , and you air suspension has a leak, the air compressor will also kill the battery.

A sensor could be the reason why a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo fails to start. The crank position sensor is often the problem. You can try unplugging the sensor for several minutes and then plugging it back in to see if that fixes the problem.

battery needs replacing, make sure you replace it with a battery of correct cranking amps

It sounds like the battery is ok so check the wire connections at the battery and make sure they are tight and clean, do the same for the starter. If this does not help the starter may be going bad.

On the right side, one of the most difficult parts to remove, the top bolt requires special tools

Trouble code P0742 means: Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Stuck On

You can find several relay switches on your 1990 Cadillac Sedan Deville. Most relay switches will be in the fuse box. The relay switches will be in the third column of the fuse box.

I Assume Your Town Car has 4.6 Engine Either way Sounds Like Coil Pack Is Going Bad Have A Dealer Check it ......:)

check your fuses could possibly be a fuseable link by the starter

Yes, along with many other causes a bad fuel pump relay can cause a no start. The fuel pump relay provides power to the fuel pump.

THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR HAS A PROBLEM WITH IT. REPLACE IT AND IT SHOULD CURE THE PROBLEM.

glow plugs

You must remove the aluminum Intake manifold ( upper & middle portion only ) to access the spark plugs. It's best left to a Professional Mechanic to do the job. The cost can vary. Look at atleast $400.00.. Just as a side note. The biggest hassle will be putting all those hoses & wire plugs you disconnected back in the right spot. The other is locating the proper bolts ( under all those hose & wires ) to remove the intake. Remember that this intake manifold only breathes air so no antifreeze BS to worry about. If you have the proper tools, patients & alot of time you can do it. I suggest perhaps taking some digital photos of the engine before you dig in - it will assist in getting some hoses back to the right spot ( label or color code hoses & wires first ) Good Luck ! And I will be doing this this weekend!

Changing the sparkplugs and wires in the Montero Sport, regardless of the year, is not an easy task. If you are not mechanically incline, then take it to the dealer and pay them to do the job....should run about $300 to $400. If you are mechanically then you may attempt to do the job yourself by following the step by step instruction on the web link listed here: http://www.monterosportonline.com/diy-perf2.html

Good luck!

The crankshaft sensor on a 2 door Honda Accord with a 3L V6 engine is located on the side of the engine, near the oil filter. It screws into the side of the block and outputs the loading of the crankshaft to the vehicle's computer.

check the exhaust system for blockage Can be that the plug wires were installed incorrectly. Can also be the timing chain is worn and has jumped a tooth. The distributor also may be loose and has turned so far the engine is out of time.

Chances are either the ground connection is bad, or you have the wrong type of tubes installed in it.

Shop light fixtures generally need tubes made specifically for them; a normal rapid start tube won't reliably start in it, especially when humidity is high.

Humidity being the key variable you mentioned, it can produce the intermittent operation you refer to. Check all wires in the wire nut splices carefully for for signs of oxidation. All wires and connections should have a shiny bright surface. Clean or cut back wire to find good clean strands and reconnect. Check contacts on ballasts and pins on the tubes too. Don't neglect the sockets, as they are often not tinned, and tend to go first. A little CRC 2-12 or similar electrical spray on a rag to wet the contacts will prevent future oxidation- for a while at least. If you have high humidity routinely, put a bit of silicone into the wire nuts to keep moisture out in the future.

Suspect a defective temperature sensor-- the one that talks to the car computer. It is not telling the computer it is cold outside, and not enough fuel is added to allow startup when cold. Suggest replace the temp sensor.

My name is Monique. I have had the same problem with my 2005 Chevy Malibu LS and the Anti Theft light coming on and then having to deal with being stranded. This has been happening to me for the past year. I recently had my CMB (control body module) changed and I haven't had anymore problems with the Anti Theft system. But when you change the CBM it will lock your radio and you then have to go to the dealer to have the radio code reprogrammed. I haven't took mine so I don't know how much it will cost. The following was posted by a fellow named Goody on a different forum, god bless him caused he saved me a ton of money on this issue, and it seems he and another fellow definitely did their research, and have at least pinpointed the source of this issue:

Ok, I'm going to expound on the graphite issue.

Background I have a 2001 Malibu with 92K on it. About a month ago it started having no start problems. I replaced the plugs, and started looking. After internet research I was pointed to the Anti-Theft system. Since I am an electronics technician and as such wanted to figure out how it worked, so I contacted an excellent auto electrical mechanic and here is what we found.

ALL GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCTS FROM 1997-2005 CONTAIN AN ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM CALLED PASSLOCK. Now for more, it seems the PASSLOCK or PASSKEY system comes in two flavors one is an option, version 2 and version 3 (optional on some models). PASSLOCK works by sending a voltage code to the BCM (Body Control Module)that enables the fuel pump or fuel injectors, so if kicked in the vehicle looks like it has no gas, and the THEFT light comes on or flashes if the incorrect key is used. If the theft light is flashing the system has lost the key code, on solid is a tamper.

Version 3 can be identified by the key, it will have either a 3 or + symbol on the blade of the key. This key contains a resistor that is connected when the key is placed in the lock assembly that enables the vehicle to start. There are numerous resistor key combinations available, and have to be matched to the lock and vehicle. Tiny wires in the lock itself connect to the key and these tend to break and are not repairable, the lock housing must be replaced. They can be bypassed by reading the resistance of the key and putting an equal resistor across the passlock wiring.

Version 2: my version, standard on GM vehicles. Consists of a lock cylinder and lock housing. The lock housing contains a pair of hall-effect sensors, the lock cylinder contains a magnet(s). When the magnet passes within a certain distance from the hall-effect sensor the sensor is switched on providing the voltage to the BCM. Since there are two sensors both must be enabled, if only one makes up then the vehicle is TAMPERED and will not start. If the magnet becomes gummed up or sticky and does not move to the required gap the vehicle is tampered and will not start but will crank. If you search on google for passlock there are several sites that show how to defeat this scheme. Most all involve taking the dash apart to cut the yellow wire (data to BCM) while the vehicle is running, this will give a constant ANTI-THEFT lamp on the dash, and a fail signal to the BCM, this will work if you never disconnect the battery or have it go dead.

My solution is lubricate the lock, several posts I read said use contact cleaner, that will work but the residue (wax lubricant) left behind will eventually gum up the works again.

Here is my suggestion, go the hardware store and purchase a small tube of powered graphite lubricant, and a can of dust-off or similar computer cleaner. Put a tiny (tip of fingernail) puff of graphite in the key slot and use the dust-off to distribute it, set the parking brake, insert the key, put the shifter in reverse and make numerous start cycles of the key, going to park and removing the key each cycle (saves wear and tear on the starter). Put in another puff of graphite and hit it with the dust-off again and repeat cycling. That should cure the problem, if it acts up again lubricate it.

As a practice lubricate all of the tumblers in the vehicle and the house since you have the necessary tools once a year. If you desire further information please email me at goodys'at'charter'dot'net, I will answer them if I can, or point you in the right direction.

1. Could be a bad ground from battery negative to engine block. High resistance at the ground connection can allow the solenoid enough current to click, but not enough to turn over the starter. Suggest checking all grounds. 2. If starter is not shimmed properly for pinion engagement with the flywheel ring gear, pinion may not be able to engage and turn. good luck

If there is a smaller wire to the positive battery cable it probably has an inline fuse link in it. The fuse link is embedded in a hard plastic covering on most chevys. There are many causes for link to be bad, keep this in mind if you bypass the fuse link. Recommend replacing the positive battery cable. Ground cable connection should be checked. Do headlights work?

Your probly looking at needing a new starter. Check your battery posts and make sure they are clean. If not, I suggest pouring some good ol coke-a-cola on them. The soda bicarbinate eats away battery funk from the posts. If it starts then let the battery charge back up by running, don't kill the engine and drive it to your mechanic to have the terminals properly cleaned.Or skip all of the above and clean the battery post yourself with a wirebrush, use safety precautions, goggles, gloves, exct. goodluck

also check your fuses it might be your crank fuse is loose or blown.

I am having the same problem.... I know what it is finally. My fuel line(gas is leaking out) very slowly because of the rust. Anyway. They dont sell the fuel lines anymore. not even after market. Best bet is to find a junk yard with a fairy decent one.... good luck.

hello how are you?

something is draining the battery. a new battery will last a couple days if just starting the car. even if your alternator is bad.

If the battery is dead the alarm will not go off