Check Engine Light

get a amp meter they are fairly cheap check both battery cables to make sure they are tight. then check battery cables to make sure both are working properly then check starter wiring and alternator wiring. If none of them are the cause check the voltage regulator

Check distributor

Check timing and timing chain

Check wires and all electrical parts pertaining ignition system

A flashing Check Engine light means that 'whatever' the cause is, its damaging Emissions components.

In most cases, the engine is Misfiring.

Best way to find out is go to a parts store (Autozone, Checker, Napa, ect..) They should have a Code Reader in which you may borrow to read the codes for the Check Engine Light.

That will read the code/codes in a P_____ (Dashes will be numbers) and possibly tell you what the code translates too. If it doesn't you may have to use google.com, type it in for the car and read up on what the code is.

Then act upon repiar.

The reason the light came on in the first place is because there is a problem with the emissions system are a transmission problem. You need an OBDII engine scanner so you can scan the computer and read the fixed codes. Then REPAIR the problem and clear the codes with the scanner then the light will go out. Sometimes after FIXING the problem the light will go out on it's own. If the light comes back on then there is still a problem. REPAIR AS NEEDED Thank you for asking your question.

Not all subaru engines have the bleed screw.Models equipped with the screw is loacted at the top of radiator

With a few exceptions the only way to reset the "check engine" light is through an OBD II code reader. The light is on because there's an issue with the engine or some part of the emissions system (could be as simple as a loose gas cap).

To reset, borrow a code reader from an auto supply store that offers them (free). Plug it into the port under the dash to the right of the steering column. Follow the instructions on the reader (usually in the lid). You'll be given a number code by some readers, text showing the problem in others. Once you've identified the problem you can press the button that says something like 'turn off trouble light'. Be aware if you haven't repaired the problem the light is just going to come on again.

The exceptions include the afore mentioned loose gas cap lid and other emissions issues and some engine miss issues (faulty spark plugs or wiring) that, when repaired, will eventually allow the light to go out. It usually takes several on/off cycles of the ignition key before the computer figures out there issue is gone.

Bottom line, grab a code reader, identify the issue, fix it, turn off the light.

Cheers

After you replace the part the computer code must be cleared, erased. You can accomplish this in one of two ways. 1-get a scan tool, or 2-disconnect the negative (-) battery cable for at least 30 seconds. This forces the computer to start it's monitoring of the sensors all over again, believing they are all in working order. Now if the light comes back on, this means a problem still exist. This could be the part you replaced, or whatever else made the code appear and maybe it was'nt the sensor after all. There is more involved but let's go with this.

P0302 is cylinder #2 misfire.

see related questions below

Hey Mike==This can be caused by several things depending on what car and what engine you have. It can POSSIBLY be caused by the timing chain or belt jumped or sometimes the timing being slow can cause it. GoodluckJoe I have a 91 caprice 305 in its doin the same thing. Its sprayin from the throttle body all over the engine causing it to flood

My mom has a 2000 Honda Accord Lx and had the same problem. It ended up being a faulty gas cap.

I guess the knock sensor could cause this,anything is possible, but I have never seen a knock sensor do anything like this. The first step is it get your vehicle hooked up to a Subaru scan tool, and get the engine light fixed.

No, oil level does not cause the check engine light.

After repairing the cause of the code, you can clear it with a scan tool.

The blinking means there is a condition that is causing damage to the converter. The cause would need to be troubleshooted.

Are you saying that all these lights stay on after you start the car? If so, you need to get the problems fixed that are causing the lights to stay lit. You have these problems. ABS-Anti-Lock Brake System problem. Check Engine- Emissions Controls Problem Trac- Traction control turned off Tire Pressure-Low Tire Pressure Security-?? Read your owners manual carefully.

Try taking the positive terminal off the battery and holding the brake for at least a minute. then put the positive terminal back on and hold the brake for another minute and that should do it.

With an OBD2 scan tool.

I WOULDNT ADVISE DOING THAT.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

Depends on what is meant by "dangerous".

The warning light comes on when the engine management computer detects a fault with one of the many sensors that are on modern fuel-injected engines.

Some of these sensors play a vital role in keeping the engine running, others do not.

The warning light is like "pain". Pain in ones big toe is not "dangerous" but the same pain in the chest is. One is an ingrowing toe-nail, the other is a Heart-attack.

In the worst case the crank-shaft position sensor might be giving a false reading and cause the engine to cut out at 70 on the motorway, in the fast lane, in heavy traffic, and cause an accident (the Heart-attack) which could be dangerous. On the other hand it might be that the "air temp sensor" is reading -150oc which is clearly never going to be true, so puts the light on (an growing toe-nail). At worst this will cause very slight loss of power and perhaps slightly higher fuel consumption.

To answer the question briefly "It is a warning light." it is warning you of a fault. Ignore it at your own peril.

On most new car, you can disconnect the negative cable on the battery for about 30 second but make sure that you have the radio code secured if you are working in a Honda or any car that have an anti theft system.

Yes, it is possible as you may have a miss. That miss would turn on the check engine light.

It means take the car to the dealer for its scheduled maintenance.

You can also check for a reset button for your vehicle. In a certain number of miles the check engine light will come on you you can take it to the dealer and they can charge you $50 to $100 dollars to reset it. They won't tell you your vehicle has a reset button they will tell you to bring it in.

its probably just the oxygen sensor. have it looked at/ its not that serious

Mine came on at 105K kms (~ 65K miles). I bought an OBD II Code reader off of Ebay for $50 and found out that the 'System was too lean' So it's not serious in my case. But I haven't taken any steps to fix it. A friend recommends I take care of it since a lean system can cause wear to the valves.

Mine came on at roughly 80k, the engine would stall while I was breaking, and excelleration became difficult. I had the code read and it was I believe bank 1 sensor 2...system too lean. I had it diagnosed and its the mass airflow sensor. You can take this part out and have it cleaned or you can spend the 500-600 on the part from Nissan (not including labor time) because they insist the car will chew up and spit out generic brand sensors (nissans are nitorious for it ANYWAY!)

A code reader for your car is a pretty good investment. Two or three uses will generally pay for it. If your code indicated something like a defective oxygen sensor or a mass air flow sensor, you would probably want to get that fixed because most of the errors you see will affect gas mileage and at todays prices, can you afford to ignore it?

On my 98 Cirrus, replaced the fuel cap and then disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and the check engine light turned off. My wifes Lexus had a similar problem. Sometimes a different brand of Gas will do the trick too.

^ I tried this today and it worked! Thanks so much =)