Chevy Astro

My 1994 Astro EXT AWD has a compartment located inside the vehicle at the rear right corner.

Open the rear doors and look at the right side of the cargo area just behind the wheel well bump. There is a plastic knob that can be unscrewed to remove the jack compartment cover. It is labeled.

Possibly tire is out of balance and low of air pressure. Can also be the caliber is not fully releasing the brake pads on the right front wheel.

alright here is a problem i absolutely love! okay there could be several different problems here, i am not looking at your truck but from experience there could be these problems;

1. your bulbs are dead

2. you blew a fuse

3. you have a short in your wiring (it happens to everyone, just take it to the shop if all else fails)

4. you have a leak somewhere in your tail lights and they are collecting water, could cause all of the above problems. still take it to your dealer or mechanic.

You don't. Most manufacturers make motors with a timing chain that should last the lifetime of a vehicle. Unlike a timing belt which requires replacement.

This operation is a pain and I recommend you get the factory service manual. You may be able to get one on eBay for a decent price. The box is "up there" and would be virtually impossible to remove without the vehicle being on a lift.

If you have just defrost and a fan setting of high, it is the small diameter vacum hose that runs from the drivers side of the throttle body to the "T" near the passenger fender. athis small hose gets very brittle ..

I have the same problem! I've seen this question several times and a user named "Sspencer69" gave this answer: "If it is stuck shut try this. I have a 1991 Aerostar that had the same problem. You have to remove the inside door panels. follow the door mechanism from the front to the back (You won't be able to see it at the back) What I did was to cut a small hole (1-2 inches) near the back of the door to be able to see the rod. I found that were the rod connects to an "L" shaped part the "L" was bent outwards (toward the outside of the door). By bending it back towards the inside of the door I was able to get the door open."

You need Air, Fuel, and a "properly timed" Spark for an engine to run. Air is simple, FUEL is not as simple as a new pump. The fact you say you have a new pump makes me think you had fuel problems before. Did the Astro work after the fuel pump install? If not, most likely your previous fuel problem wasn't entirely the pump, or the new pump could have been wired improperly. Not connected properly, the pump wouldn't receive enough current to pump fuel to the engine. I'm pretty sure by 95 Chevy wasn't using carburetors anymore, so your injectors could be the problem. Clogged injectors on an 11 year old car isn't unheard of. Finally, PROPERLY TIMED spark is a very likely culprit. Just because you have spark, doesn't mean it's timed to the combustion process. If the plug sparks while the valves are open, your car won't start. If the valves don't open, air and fuel aren't getting in to the combustion chamber. You could have a broken timing belt/chain. Possibilities: 1. Broken timing belt or chain. 2. Bad injectors 3. Improperly wired fuel pump.

Over half of the passenger cars manufactured after 2012, including Toyotas, come with ceramic pads. Before 2012, most pads were metallic. Most quality aftermarket pads are semi-metallic. Semi-metallic are also the second most common pad in new vehicles.

Under the hood, on the drivers side. The cover says, "Fuse/Relay center". Pull the cover and locate the relay using the map under the cover.

In the distributor under the cap

5litres

A 1998 Chevy astro has shocks instead of sturts.

on astro vans that have that wrap around at the bottom (e.g.)a green van with gold trim....the trim is the cladding.

speedometer is not working 91 astro van other instruments are

Trouble code P0700 means:Transmission control system malfunction

You cannot "convert" an AWD transmission to 2WD or vice versa, you'd have to take the whole thing apart.

you can get to some from the front and the ones in the back you can get to through the wheel wells

You will need to remove the door panel of your 1995 Toyota. Remove the door handle linkage. Remove the door handle retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new door handle.

Generally, dash lights and tail lights are on the same fuse so that if the tail fuse blows you'll know. When the tail light was "smashed", it shorted out the circuit and blew the fuse. You need to fix the tail light before you can get the dash lights to work.

Its in the air duct after the air filter and before the injector. Its about a 3" rectangle with a screen in the middle. I replaced mine when I failed inspection but not sure this fixed the problem. Astroman INCORRECT thats the air flow sensor, map sensor, rear of engine, remove large engine cover (in cab) under radio, situated rear of engine opposite side to steering wheel

On some engines it is easier to ge to it from the bottom.

If you are doing it without a lift,you need to remove the front wheels, then pull off at least half of the inner fender flap.If you pull the fender flap carefully, you can reinstall using the same buttons. Get some extensions for your socket wrench along with a universal or swivel drive. One other tip- To get more leverage on your socket wrench, get a piece of 1" diameter PVC pipe and put it over your wrench. (a 12" piece will do.)

outside handles are riveted on. you need to drill out the rivets. you also need a rivet gun to re-install it.

REVISION: This may be on some ASTRO models, but I've never come across one with this. Most are bolted from inside the door. You simply remove the inner door panel (you may need to purchase some new plastic fasteners, as some of these will break as you pry the door panel off (most auto parts places carry them, they are fairly generic). Then, unbolt the remaining part of your broken door handle assembly and disconnect linkage and install the new one in its place. Reattach the inner door panel and you're done. The door handles on an Astro are one of the "weak links" of this vehicle. I've replaced all of them on all 3 Astro's that I've owned. The handles are readily available from a dealer (or cheaper aftermarket available on the web).

also to make it easier do not clip the lock mechanism on until it is fully installed and everything else is hooked up then get someone to turn the key while you hook up the bar and clip it makes it easier to get your hands around in there to hook up the rest of the linkage and bolts done 2 like this-easy done one the other way ouch

MY EXPERIENCE:

You will most certainly break the plastic inner door panel when removing it, there is almost no way around this. The removable fasteners are almost un-breakable and do not come off easily. What will break easily is the plastic door panel and the plastic grommet that receives the fastener so your inner panel will end up mounted only by hanging on the window ledge and by the few remaining plastic fastener mounts you didn't break - expect the inner panel to fit poorly and flop around after this job.

From the outside, the bolts that hold on the handle look like rivets but from the inside, they are threaded bolts with nuts. The lower bolt's nut can be accessed from a hole on the edge of the door frame after popping off the black plastic stopper. The upper bolt's nut is nearly impossible to access and very difficult to remove, let alone re-fasten. (Save the nuts from the original handle as the new replacement handle does not come with nuts) To make it more complicated - the upper nut requires a 7/16 wrench and the lower, a 10mm socket.

The little rod that activates the handle on the inside, pops off too easily and may break the little plastic clip that barely holds on the rod. You'll have an angry time with this little bugger.

After half a day of scraping your knuckes and cussing a lot you may be able to fit everything into place and bolt th handle back on but I guarantee you it will fit poorly and the little acuator rod will rub on the window guide so that you have to yank tha handle pretty hard to open the door. This is how my original handle shattered into pieces in the first place.

I spent some time with a wooden rod and a hammer trying to wack to window guide out of the way enough to prevent the rubbing but still the door handle does not work right.

This is a nightmare of a job. If you have the $500 or more - pay someone who knows how to do this.

or, you could try this:

I've done this a couple of times to my 1997 astro, and have learned a couple of things. IF you're not worried about appearances. take a jig saw and cut a u shaped notch in the side (not the outside or inside, the actual side of the door where the latch is). Line up the cut so that the U covers the area where the upper nut is located. I also "expanded" the hole on the bottom that's covered by the plug by doing the same thing there. After cutting the notches, bend the metal up and out of the way. You can now get a wrench on the top nut, and a socket on the bottom one . This will let you remove the outside handle without even removing the door panel. Then you replace the handle, but, as mentioned earlier, do NOT put the lock rod in until you mount the handle. Hold the handle in the open position, and put the tab end in first, otherwise you'll fight it all day. After the bolts on the new handle are tightened, use a flexible magnetic probe to put the latch rod through the bushing. Stick the probe UP through the lower hole, rest the bottom of the J of the lock rod on it, rotate it to line it up, and carefully start the lock rod through the bushing. Once it catches, carefully remove the magnet, insert a flat screwdriver through the same hole, and pop the rod through the bushing. Then bend the U cuts back into place, and you're done. Note that I've found that the silver part (where the rod attaches) does not open as far as it should on some aftermarket latches. These will quit working only a month or two after installation. To make them work longer, bend this part of the latch (you may need to carefully heat it) so that full open is about 1/4 inch further down. Be careful not to melt the bushing that holds the rod in if you do-these are impossible to find, so you'll end up spending another thirty bucks on another new latch. Also, my van is white, so I just covered the "u" cuts with a short piece of white reflective tape....improves safety and covers the hole until I need to open it again. Cutting these notches turns a two hour job into twenty minutes. Just be careful if you have power accessories, I'd pull the door panel first so I could be sure to avoid any wiring.

== == On older models it is sometimes easier to remove the plastic trim ring covering the headlight retainer ring to change out the sealed beam. Open the hood and you will see there are four torx head screws (2 near top, 2 near bottom) holding the plastic trim to the front of the van. remove these and let hang carefully to the side by the turn signal wires. This allows easy access to the 4 retaining ring screws and then continue as described below. To replace a headlamp on the astro vans (at least for a 99, I think it should be the same for other years), there are 4 screws that hold onto a trim ring that holds the headlamp in. Remove those 4 screws and the headlamp should come right out. On my van it is a sealed beam which means the bulb is the whole headlamp assembly. Just unplug the old bulb and plug in the new one, put the trim ring back into place and you are all set. for 2000 and up: The headlights I know are on a 2001 Chevy Astro (Mine) there is a 10mm bolt holding the corner reflector on the body that gives you access to the lower bolt on either the left or right sides to remove the headlight assembly there are two 10mm bolts on the top of the assembly also to remove ;;the assembly then slides to the outside and tilt forward for replacement of the bulbs.

Note: All sealed beam bulbs are not aimed the same as the bulb you replaced. You may have to have the new bulb re-aimed! Park 20' from a level wall on level ground and aim the left head light "hotspot" 4" down and 4" to the right, the right headlight straight and 4" down. This will get it real close.