Chevy Avalanche

if your message center is reading change oil turn the key to on position push gas peddle 3 times to floor turn key off and turn back on it should clear message center if its a check engine you need to fix the problem it wont fix itself

yes, it is,,, just pop out. you need remove the hard plastics clips.

The easiest way is to pick up a harness extension. I bought mine from the dealer I got the brake controler from. Dealer may have also. Watch out if yours is an 03 as they changed the wiring mid year and you may have to switch a couple of wires. The Avalanche forum has more on this.

This Message can not just be reset.

It is caused (usually and most likely) by a loose or defective electrical connector behind the drivers kick panel. This connector must be replaced or at least disconnected and reconnected to ensure proper contact.

GM has isuued a service bulletin, #05-09-41-001

first disconnect battery, disconnect alternator and unbolt ground from it, loose two bolts on the sides there's a third bolt that it's located in the front of the alternator, this third bolt will release the pressure on the serpentine belt. when you're done doing this just keep unbolting the sides 'till come out and pull out the alternator, backwards for installation but make sure all the wires are well connected and everything in place, and try not to tight up the belt too much.

Prices range quite widely for a 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche and depend on several things including condition- whether clean, avarage or poor condition, mileage, and original year of manufacture. You may be able to purchase one for as little as $10 000 for a poor example, or up to $25 000 for a particularly good one.

Check the thumb wheel next to the headlight switch and make sure it is not turned all the way down.

It is important to know the weight of a vehicle while driving it. A 2007 Chevy Avalanche has a gross vehicle weight of 5,742 pounds.

Chevy never made a 327 vortec. the last time they produced a 327 was in 1969, while the first vortec was made in the early 1990s.

140 hp

30,000 miles is most manufactures reccomendations on everything but the engine oil witch is 3,000 miles

See detailed instructions at the link below... http://www.autoclinix.com/Mercury/Rear%20Speakers.html

open the glovebox. on the right side there is a dampener that is attached to a little knob on the glovebox. pull it off then squeeze the sides and twist the glovebox so the stoppers can go past where they usually rest. open it up now as far as it will go without breaking anything and inside youll see an 8"x2" white plastic rectangular panel. this is the front of a small drawer that holds the cabin air filter in place. its easy to slide out and replace the filter now that you know where to find it.

FlexFuel will be written on the vehicle somewhere if that vehicle is Flex Fuel.

In order to change either or both of the Knock Sensors, you must first remove the wire connections. The sensors are physically located directly underneath the intake plenum. You will need a metal tool to remove the fuel lines also. Needle nose pliers may be needed to extract them. You will need to use some sort of sealant on the new sensors.

1960's had about 300hp

1970-73 had about 300-330hp

1974-76 had about 250-200

1977-81 had about 200-175

1982-84 had about 200-150

all this is depending on what bolt on's you have (Headers, intake, carbrator etc..). If its a stock 350 then it has lower horsepeower because of the years. If it's rebuilt and tuned properly it'll be higher

If you have bored the engine out then it would become a 355 or 383 with a stroker kit. Which results in alot high performance.

I have a 1977 350 which only made about 175 on the dyno when I bought it. I have since then rebuilt it. I bored out .030 (355) added a new crankshaft and new camshaft and lifters from Edelbrock, aluminum heads from Dart, Long tube headers from Hooker, tunnel ram from Weiand, dual Holley 600cfm carbs, and a new oil pan from Moroso.

Added up all I am making well 569 horsepower with this set up.

Yes. Due to a 1990 EPA mandate, all gasoline in that market will be RFG and may also be oxygenated. More info: http://www.epa.gov/OMS/rfgvehpf.htm

26hp

I had this problem in my 2007. the forward sprag was broken. i still had 1st, 2nd 3rd and reverse but no drive.

Many possibilities. Have the cars computer checked for codes. The computer knows all.

loosen tensioner bolt for alternator, remove belt, unplug all electrical connections.. remove bolt in rear of alternator should be able to pull it out after that, instalation is the reverse this is assumeing you have a 5sfe engine

under the truck inside frame rail

it's located on the firewall right in back of the intake

Open hood, on top of headlight there is a silver "L" shaped pin, lift it up, slide it out, this releases headlight assembly, now simply tilt headlight forward & out.