Chevy Blazer

On a cold engine I unhook the battery ground and then (if you are changing a fuel filter) just loosen it to relieve pressure. No matter where you relieve pressure, there will be spillage so use a drip pan. As long as the battery is disconnected the chance of fire is greatly reduced. There is a schrader valve on the fuel line on the engine for this purpose, but that can make a much worse mess cause it runs all over the engine.The MOST important thing is to disconnect the battery.

You didn't say want is wrong with the tranny. If the repair can be done with trans in vehicle it shouldn't be to bad. If the trans has to come out and be completely overhauled you could consider purchasing a used unit and have it installed. It is a gamble and can save you aprox half the cost of a rebuilt installed but if it goes bad most junk yards will make good for the trans within 30 days but you eat the labor. The trick is to deal with a reputable junk yard.

41-47 psi, engine off, fuel pump running.

its on the left hand side of the radiator but not very easy to get to My apology, it is a 1996 S10 Chevy Blazer instead of a 1999 Chevy Blazer. I need to see a picture or more detail of where the drain plug is located on the left side of the radiator. I have searched and searched and cannot find anything to drain with. Thanks, Linel

Star the car, drive around for a few till it gets hot, then look at the fan and if the car is hot

you can hear it running and you can feel it pulling air if you put your hand by it.

To test the fan...use a 2" wire 18 gauge like the wires used in the harness for radio connector. strip 1/8 " each end. Now find fan thermocouple sending switch which is the second lower switch located on driver side or right side of engine towatd the front , near the top. it has two wires going to it , the other has one. squeez the black

connector and pull it off. Loop the connection(place wire, one in each hole) being careful not to let the bare wires touch. Start engine and the fan should turn on ok....If not it is bad. If it does and wont turn on when temp reaches 175 when connected to thermocouple switch, the switch is bad....

"The Trail Blazer is a smaller SUV compared to the Suburban or Tahoe models. It is roomy, has a comfortable interior, and gets better gas mileage than it's larger counterparts."

Sometimes the Steering wheel lock will rest on the locking mechanism and not let you turn the ignition switch. Try turning the wheel one way or the other to relieve the pressure while tuning the ignition switch. If this does not work then you may either have a worn out ignition swtch, Key, or there is a mechanical failure of the switch.

There is no relay. There is an electrically controlled temp door motor that runs the door directing the air flow, either across the heater core, or across the evaporator core, or any degree in between. That motor sometmes fails, and that blend dorr likes to break. I have a feeling you will need a heater case, because the door is part of the assembly.

It means the computer has detected a problem in the airbag system. Usually this will cause the computer to deactivate the airbag system. (Meaning the airbags will not work in an accident) The dealer can tell you what needs repaired.

The inside door handle's bend to the point that they do not operate the latch mechanism completely and will eventually break many times.The only way to correct this problem is to replace the inside door handle assembly.

There could be so many problems. Batery, starter, alternator, serpentine belt, no spark... the list is endless. spark plugs? spark plugs?

Probably. It will allow moisture to enter inside the cap.

Check for vacuum leaks.

If it's coming from the engine, it's a belt problem. One of your accessories might be out of alignment, or your belt could be going bad.

Same direction as the engine.

The engine coolant temp switch could be a possiblity.If I give it a little gas with foot on brake it does not hesitate and the fuel is running very rich

Yes it will.

The two have nothing in common, other than the fact that normally the larger the engine, the more horsepower it is able to produce. Horsepower is a measurment of the ability to lift, pull, or turn. Cubic Centimeters is a metric measurment of size, or volume.

Black smoke-you are burning oil, engine is worn out. White smoke-you probably have a blown head gasket. Good luck with either one, both are expensive to repair. The above answer is only partially correct. Black smoke is not oil burning. Black smoke is an overly rich fuel mixture. Blue smoke is burning oil and white smoke is coolant in the combustion chamber.

you dont without cutting the plate

1st remove negative battery cable from battery. then remove electrical connectors from alternator with ratchet, rotate tentioner pully to remove belt. (near top/center of belt) remove support bracket and mounting bolts and it's off.

Wear and Tear on the turn signal switch. The switch that is multi function switch and has the cruise, signals, high beam, window washer, and wipers etc. By the way, the 4 way hazaeds are part of it too.

Brass contact particles wear off the internals of the switch and mix with the di-electric grease that is used as a lubricant inside the switch. This mixture of grease and brass once it gets bad enough can create enough continuity within the switch to fire the relay but not effect anything else except it drives most people crazy.

The relay is behind the glove compartment box and generally is not the problem.

It will click with no consistancy at all and will often slow down or stop completely when the brake is applied. The brake light circuit goes through the signal switch because the signal lights are the same bulbs as the brake lights. When the brake is applied, it usually takes enough of this transient voltage away to shut the thing up.

I just did mine and it takes about 2 hours to make the change for an above average home mechanic. Cost of part on the internet is about $100.00

You can clean the existing one but with no promise it will work so honestly it is alot of work and $100 and not having to remove it twice is worth the spend.

Calgary, Alberta.

I am not an HVAC personel, but I have worked maintenance, and see quite a few different styles.

I guess it really depends. I have seen drain pans that have little pumps in them and it pumps the condensed water into a condensation line, and I have also seen it drained directly into a condensation line.

It really depends on how your a-coil is set, and if other a/c units are vertically stacked or in a horizontal row. If it is low to the floor and it has no drain lines near it, it will probably have a pan with a pump, but it is more efficient to have one drain, and a condensation line that stacks all the units.

I have never seen one that drained just into a pan, I'd think that would kind of defeat the purpose of extracting humidity from a building.

You need a 3/8" Allen wrench to remove them.