Chevy Cavalier

It sounds to me like you might have a brake shoe dragging. Try coasting to a stop and then accelerate and see if the noise is still there. The noise could be from a front shoe that is hanging up when pressure is applied to stop the car. It could be caused by a bad caliper piston or warped rotors. Kind of a hard problem to diagnose but sounds like the most probable cause is in the brake system. Hope this helps

Sounds like the starter solenoid is sticking, could be faulty. You might have to pull it out and bench test it. First put a multimeter or test light on the starter solenoid wire (without it being connected to the starter) and check that it stops supplying power when you switch the key off to make sure you don't have any wiring issues.

There isn't one. I can't remember where exactly it is, but there is a small plug on the trans itself. You have to remove the plug and the fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole. There isn't one on all setups. If you don't see it between the engine and the battery then there isn't one. In that case there is a small plug on the trans itself. You have to remove the plug and the fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole.

Incoming!

An impala can jump more than 9 meters and 2.5 meters high.

Prop open the hood of the car, grab a straight-edge screwdriver or upholstery removal driver (seems to work better for me) and remove the small, round-headed clips that hold the plastic cover that spans the front of the car over the headlights, then remove the cover itself.

Now, with the cover off, look down directly at the headlight assembly - you'll notice a small rectangular slit cut out right where your headlight lens and signal lens meet.

Grab a long screwdriver and put it down that slit and there is a clip that holds the signal lens in place using the headlight assembly. Use the screwdriver to unclip the signal lens as you pull on the lens to get it loose from the headlight assembly. If you can't see the clip, just grab a flashlight and shine it down into the hold and you'll see it, it's a pretty big clip.

Once you have pulled the signal lens out, you will need a large Torx bit and a ratchet to take off the 2 large silver Torx bolts that are holding the headlight assembly down. You can also use just a regular hex socket of the appropriate size to get these off.

Now with those two bolts removed, it's easy sailing - just pull up on the headlight assembly and out, and now you have easy access to the back of the headlight lens where you will now be able to see where the headlight plugs in.

Around the light is a black plastic locking piece that locks the lens in place - simply twist it off and the light can be taken out of the lens. There's also a blue clip that holds the light into the electrical socket, which can sometimes be a pain in the butt to get off, but just take your time - you don't want to break these parts 'cause they're expensive to replace!

After you have the blue clip off, you can now just take out the light, replace it with your new one (make sure you don't touch the bulb!), and reverse these directions to put the lenses back in properly, and repeat for the other side of the car.

Open trunk & pull away carpet from behind the lights.

To change the valve cover gaskets on a 1998 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L, disconnect the battery cables. Then use a wrench to loosen the valve cover bolts. Remove the old gasket from the cover and the manifold using a cleaner designed for this purpose (found at automotive parts stores). Put adhesive on the manifold, and valve cover. Line with a new gasket on the valve cover and replace the valve covers. Tighten the bolts and re-connect the battery.

If it's an automatic transmission it can stay in the car. Simply unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel and the trans from the engine. If it's a manual trans it's not that simple. You don't have enough room to slide the engine forward from the input shaft on the trans. It's easier to pull them both together.

what year and engine?

yes

The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

I have a 97 Cavalier which I hit a median and have to replace a strut and other parts. For one strut it approx costs 216.00 and for two depending on how many miles you have in your car it would be approx 420.00. (Can B Cheaper)It depends where you shop and get the repair work. Also the miles and condition of your car are big factors too.

chevy cobalt

Im betteing one of your motor mounts is broken and making the car shake. does the engine move when you gun it in neutral?

ajust the idle of the car.

The car has no idle ajustment it is controled by the PCM check the motor mounts and check your idle control motor. Also have you intake and plentium checked and cleaned also run some fuel injector cleaner every tank full.

dirt420ba BE SAFE!!!!!

use a razor blade and slice a small slit the size of the wire in the rubber boot that the brake cable or throttle cable goes through, it may be easier to put the wire through the steering columb boot. after u put a slit in the rubber boot just push the wire through.

The purpse of valve lifters is exactly what it says, to lift the valve.

check your fuse. i had the same problem. that might be it. I doubt a fuse, the clicking is probably the horn relay that you hear. Fair chance the horn or connection at the horn is the problem. The clicking noise is the relay, and since it is clicking I doubt that your switch is bad, so check the fuse and also check the horn (hook it to the battery).

Drill out the rivets and bolt on the aftermarket ball joint assembly. check torque specs on it!

Engine overheating. Check the radiator for leaks in the hose pipe or radiator, otherwise the water pump is faulty and will need replacing

Remove the belt from your 2002 Chevy Cavalier alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new alternator.

You should be able to pull your e-brake up ONE click on these cars. This should turn off day-time running lights without actually setting the e-brake at all.

Let it set for about 2 hours or push the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there while turning the engine over. Rarely do fuel injected engines flood. If they do then something is wrong with the firing system.

I'm assuming this: you probably ran out of oil via leak or something. Well your engine probably overheated from no oil/ coolant. It seized up and won't restart? Well, my suggestion is if nothing is blown pull the engine and do a full rebuild and see if that helps.