Chevy Lumina

are you freaking joking you dont know how to change a fuel pump what the hell is wrong with you

Coolant provides several different functions for your vehicle. Some are obvious, and others not so much. 1)Cooling - Coolant is pumped through the block of the engine. This coolant is warmed up by the combustion of fuel in the cylinders. Once the engine reaches operating temperature the thermostat allows the coolant to flow through the radiator where it is cooled to a lower temperature. The coolant then circulated through the engine keeping it at a controlled temperature. 2)Corrosion Protection -Your coolant is treated with various chemicals to prevent corrosion to your engine as well as other parts of your car. When Coolant is neglected for too long it will become corrosive, and it will begin to rust various engine components causing leaks. 3)Heating -The warm coolant in your engine is used to power your car's heater. A typical thermostat in a vehicle keeps the engine coolant over 170 degrees F. This warm coolant is pumped through a small radiator called a heater core which transfers heat to the passenger compartment. 4)Freeze Protection - Coolant is often called antifreeze because it freezes at a much lower temperature than water. In places that get below freezing temperatures this is very important. When a cooling system freezes the contents expand which can severely damage or destroy engines. Different vehicles use different types of coolant. This is done for several reasons. It is always best only to use the same coolant as the manufacturer recommends.

Wow...that's a new one. About the only thing that could cause this I'd think is some sort of short that when the backup lights come on (only when you're in reverse) or when the shifter itself is in this position, this somehow causes or fixes some sort of a short. You don't mention whether this is a column shift or console shift car, but I'll bet it's a column shifter? Assuming it's a column shifter, I'd probably be trying to get into the dash behind the speedometer and see if there's some wire that got rubbed raw from the sliding up and down action of the column shifter. If it's a console shifter, I really am not sure what it could be, but I'd get inside that console and see if there's something wrong with the wires.

it may be that you need to replace your thermastat, or coolent level is low wrong mixture

The starter will crank the engine over but it won't run.

on that particular vehicle that key has a computer chip in it so the easiest way to do this procedure would be in your favor instead of paying out the nose to pay a lock smith to come out and make you another key would be to call your local parts store in town and give them the correct information for your vehicle and then ask for a new lock cylinder key switch which will have a new key inside

You will need a small socket set (metric), a 10" extention, and a screw driver. Not sure the socket size, but the Lumina seems to use 10, 13, and 15mm on almost everything. The main retaining bolt is way down and is impossible to reach without a long extension. I used a 6" and 3" combined. There are also a couple of plastic retainer things holding the washer fluid tank to the frame. I just worked them out with a screw driver, and one of them broke. Good Luck. The main bracket is a huge pain. It is shaped like an L and has a hole on the bottom that snugs upward agains a round rubber bumper. I had to do a little prying to get it out. The fuse box is a bit in the way, but I was able to bend it without breaking it (barely). And I had to remove the washer pump from the washer tank for some reason as well. The whole thing took me about 45 minutes.

There are two simple ways to check if the reason your car does not turn over is a bad starter. 1) Charge the battery to its fullest. If the starter turns over slowly and then no longer turns, it would indicate that it is wearing out. A good starter should turn over extremely fast when the battery is "topped off." 2) If the starter does not engage, and the engine will not turn over, then your best tools is a hammer, crowbar, or a straight metal pipe. While someone else is in your car with the key turned to "start" position, you begin to hit your starter with your hammer, many, many times. You must hit the base of the starter very forcefully, the large cylinder part. A bad starter will almost always turn over for a short time using this method. It may take a minute or two, and the person with car key may need to turn off and on a few times, but NOT push gas pedal. The starter should be located right in front of motor on the bottom. You should be able to see it by getting on the ground in front of your car in the center. The starter is a large cylinder object, with another smaller cylinder object atop of it (the solenoid).

do i need to change the manifold when replacing thermostat

There really is no adjustment... Tighten the rocker nut/bolt and that's it... Maybe you have other mechanical problems? Whats the problem?

A 9/16" socket for the two bolts that hold it in, an a 1/2" one for the nut on the cable to the battery. And a lot of time: there isn't a lot of room to turn a wrench in there, plus wiggling the starter out of the tiny space that it's in isn't easy either.

If the check engine light is turning on, the computer has detected a fault and has a code for you to read. The code will tell you what the computer has detected. You can borrow, rent or buy a code scanner at most auto parts retailers. One common scenario is that the engine is given a little more fuel while it's warming up. During that time the throttle body is opened a little extra to allow for a slightly higher idle speed, and the EGR valve is closed or nearly closd. After the engine is warmed, everything goes back to "normal", the amount of fuel is reduced to a more fuel conserving level and a small amount of exhaust gas is recycled into the intake to keep the valves from burning from that lower fuel level. If the EGR valve is plugged or is not functioning properly, the engine will have difficulty idling after the engine warms up. You should be able to verify that through a diagnostic code.

i have a 3.1 in mine and i get like 20 city and 24 highway

The Pass-Key, Pass-Key II, or VATS, as it's called in earlier GM vehicles, uses a resistor mounted in the key blank to confirm that the correct ignition key is being used to start the engine. Many people call the resistor pellet a "chip" due to the common misconception that it is some sophisticated digital circuit to identify the key to the car. Not quite. It is not a "chip" of silicon as is customarily used for integrated circuits, but merely a block of carbon appropriately sized to have a desired electrical resistance.

disconnect battery i found the easy way to do this is remove air intak box top and snorkle hose loosen and remove intake manifols bolts there is a metal pipe that goes to brke booster that has to be unscrewed, also pull map sensor remove any hose that limits you to lift manifold up be prepared to chage broken hose under manifold they are nylon and crck when didturbed you can use vacuum hose as replacement. you nedd to remove the fuel lines tha screw into fuel injecter rail also the is a fuel line clamp that will let you move the fuel lines awy from the oil pump shaft once you have room remove oil drive rod retainer bolt andwedge piece. i usually spray carb cleaner around pump shaft because oil varnish makes it sticky to get out get a pair of locking needlenose vise grips and work the pump shaft first turn left and right to break varnish up and then start to lift the shaft rocking back and forth once out clean block surface and shaft surface install new o=ring now i use rtv silicon because this is a problem area to seal especially with a few miles to crankcase pressure blows out this spot first. put shaft w/ new seal and seaaler back in if the shaft doesnot go in and bottom out to block you might have to bar the engine over with a wrench by turning grank pulley clockwise only while someone holds down pressure while slowly turning crank pully this is to line up cam gear with oil pump hex drive once shaft is all the way seated put retainingbolt and wedge back in tighten hook up feul line check that the oring are on the end of both hoses if not stop and buy new fuel line orings at dealer damaged or missing oring will pump gas on motor and burn no joke!!! replace manifold with new upper intake gastets (upper plemum)i would chang pcv valve while you right there and hose repair any crack vacuum hose even the one to fuel pressure regulator and map sensor if not the car will idle like crap dont forget brake booster pipe and i reccommend a oil and filter change.then kiss that major oil leak good bye take a foe day for excess oil to drip from frame

Those are a bugger to get at for sure. I personally use what is referred to as a "crows foot" line wrench. Which basically looks like the very end of a line wrench, without the handle, and a square slot in it where a 3/8 ratchet can be attached. This will allow you to place the tool on the line and then using a ratchet and extension (3") you can effectively put the ratchet farther away from the unit which gives you room to work. These tools can be purchased relatively inexpensively at most auto parts stores. I do know for a fact that NAPA stores sets of these for under $30. Once you have the tool, the process is pretty straight forward. Begin by putting a drain pan of some sort underneath the vehicle so that the fluid doesn't spill all over the ground and then, using the tool, remove the line from the sector and then the pump. Installation is the reverse. I know I make this sound like it is a piece of cake, but please know that I am aware of the difficulty involved in getting your hands and tools in place. It might also possible to access from underneath by removing the skidplate and reaching up... Good luck, and try to be patient even though it may seem impossible. Nobody has any secret tricks to my knowledge other that tiny hands... Let me know how it goes. And if you need any further assistance, please feel free to let me know... Thank you

Is it below freezing when this happens? Maybe there's water in lock and it's freezing. Even if it's not below freezing, have you tried spraying some wd40 into the key hole? There's actually better stuff to squirt into the key hole...look for a product that contains graphite and try that. If below freezing, I've also seen people use a cigarette lighter to heat up there key and then insert the key, wait a few seconds for the heat to melt the ice and then try turning the key.

== == Sometimes it is not actually "boiling", but bubbling. Start by getting a new radiator cap. It is the first thing you should do, and is easy. *MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS NOT HOT WHEN REMOVING A RADIATOR CAP* When air enters the closed/pressurized cooling system, the air ends up in your reservoir tank and bubbles the top. Sometimes(depending on vehicle) it will even exit the reservoir tank through an overflow hose and appear to be a leak. Hope this helps! Chris not enough water or coolant in radiator.

the sensor is located next to the thermostart, driver side of the cylinder head.

It is bolted into the passenger side of the timing cover on the front of the engine.

Look at the front of the engine and it will be behind the bottom pulley/ harmonic balancer.

there is no "fast idle solenoid" there has'nt been a fast idle adjustment on passenger cars in over 20 years

front

Hi I donno if this will help or not? I own a 1998 Mitsubishi 3000 Gt, its just a standard 2 dr hatch front wheel drive. 3.0L SOHC in excellent condition.. when the mileage turned 98,000. On Oct, 10 2004. The owners manual said it was time to change the timing belt, so I had the timing belt and water pump done. I was told it was best to change the water pump at the same time to save me money in the future as a preventive, because of it being labor intensive,Also I did not use after market parts I had to order The O/E parts from Mitsubishi I also had new NGK platuim plugs and Max-Fire plug wires, ECM dyno tuning, emmssion test, engine coolent replaced, with a radiator flush, and the Fuel Injectors inspected and cleaned, the annual 3500 mile oil change and the air-fliter was changed also, the total cost for this tune up at my local speed shop was $790.54. I'll list out the part and labor cost that I was charged so you can get a run down idea ( Samsons Gargage Treated me very well)

1 O/E Timing Belt ..$104.28 1 O/E water pump.( New! not a rebuilt).. $128.88 NGK platuim long life spark plugs (6)..$13,41 -20% discount Max-fire plug wires(Custom color) LTW..$68,00 Prestone coolent...$ 7.00 Air Hog Air filter..$10,83 Parts Total.. $263.80 Dyno Tuning... $149.00 Sub Total.... $412.80 Labor cost ...$320.00 Plus Tennessee State Tax..$57.54 Grand total.. $790.43

Oil change with fliter.No/charge because of amount of work I had done. This does not include the custom work I had done to the brakes, clibers and rotors. that are HP performance from R&R Racing.. Hey a girl has to stop.. I Ivy

There are many factors. First, is if you are doing it or a shop is doing it. The parts will be more expensive at a shop as they get marked up. The cost of running a auto repair shop is crazy and that is reflected in your bill. Second is the quality of parts your using. If you buy cheesball parts like many from autozone (I hate to single out a company, but the failure rate I have seen warrants this opinion)you will spend less money today, but more when you replace them tommorrow. If you buy quality parts they are more expensive today but you won't have to replace them tommorrow. Thirdly, the phrase "Tune-up" varies. What I would consider a complete tune up is this: Profession fuel injection cleaning $70.00, Throttle bore cleaning and air induction service $50.00, Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter -varies depending on car from $200.00 to $1500.00. For example, A 1996 Chevy caprice with a 4.3l motor if I remember right ran around $800.00 for the cap, rotor wires and labor alone. I would guess around $500.00 for you car.

The tune up by the book will run about $600.00 because of the labor. That's what I got quoted by my Mitsubishi dealer.

**A Special Note about Oil & Filter changes -- the Mitsubishi / Stealth 3.0 engines use a Factory oil filter that has a Check Valve built in --- This prevents Dry starts and rapid engine wear, the check valve is NOT in all aftermarket filters.