Clutches and Flywheels

a failing clutch will slip,in 4th or 5th if you floor it the engine will speed up without the car going faster

On the transmission there is a bleeder valve it should be located twords the top near the front of the tranny. The easiest way is to use a vaccuum bleeder or run a hose from the bleeder in to a jug of brake fluid. open the bleeder to release fluid/air then close it and pump the clutch. repeat this process until you can feel the clutch coming in also you should be able to hear it. rangers are a pig to bleed as they have all sorts of lines running through that cause air pockets and sometimes it can take days

Remove the transmission side of the cable first. To do this you grab the cable with one hand and pull the cable up slightly to release pressure on the black tensioning nut. Unscrew the nut until it doesn't touch the transmission anymore. The cable is now loose enough to pull the bottom gromet sideways through the clutch arm. You will see there is a gap or notch in the arm where you can slip the cable sideways through it. Then pull the cable up through the hole where the nut was tensioned.

Next get inside the car and lay upside down (facing up) under the dash. Follow the clutch pedal up to the top with your hand, to where the clutchpedal has a hook. The cable is simply hooked onto the pedal. Slip the cable end off the top of the hook on the pedal.

Then head back to the engine bay and pull the cable out of the hole in the engine compartment. Pretty simple, you can do it in 10 minutes.

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The average price for a fitted replacement clutch is $180. The clutch will require three hours of labor to install.

Check the transmission fluid level first. It could be down.

On the other hand, if the level is up and the engine is running but the vehicle won't move after putting it in drive you probably have a valve body problem in the transmission. You might get a little improvement with something that softens the seals and/or stops the leaking. Most likely it won't help much but it's worth a try.

If it only runs after it warms up, try changing the fluid and filter but don't try running it until you move a little fluid through the valve body. Put it in gear but don't try to go, just let it idle for a few minutes. If that won't work you'll have to get the transmission rebuilt.

Use a fan clutch wrench, hit it with a hammer(top right side of wrench) counter clock wise, or open end wrench, same process, or use a air hammer on fan clutch nut(hitting it counter-clock-wise) Use a fan clutch wrench, hit it with a hammer(top right side of wrench) counter clock wise, or open end wrench, same process, or use a air hammer on fan clutch nut(hitting it counter-clock-wise)

Exactly like bleeding the brakes...

Behind the motor on the drivers side, towards the center of the firewall, you will see a shrader valve (Bleeder) for your clutch. Have another person with you for this.

Have the friend or whoever sit in the drivers seat and you at the bleeder and do the following.

1. Pump the clutch about 6 times and hold (do not release clutch yet)

2. Un-screw the bleeder(DO NOT TAKE IT OFF!!!, JUST UNSCREW ENOUGH UNTIL YOU SEE FLUID COME OUT). Then tighten it back.

NOTE: While bleeding, check the clutch slave cylinder because if that becomes empty, you will have air enter the system fast. so have a large bottle to flush/bleed system.

Repeat step 1 and 2, 3-5 times because you need to make sure you not only flush the system, but get rid of all the air from the system. if you don't then you will be able to shift while driving, then mysteriously you can't get the clutch in unless you "pump the clutch" a million times before you are able to disengage the clutch.

If you know how to bleed brakes, it's EXACTLY THE SAME.

The system is full of air. You need to take the top off of the clutch master cylinder and remove the rubber cup that is inside of it. Then fill it up with fluid and go under the truck and loosen the bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder and let the fluid run out until it is running steady like a water hose. Be sure that you put fluid in it as needed, do not let it run out of fluid. This will take a few minutes to do.

When it is running out steady after a few minutes then tighten bleeder, put rubber cup back in and the top on then pump the clutch pedal up and see how it feels.

No. I always floated the gears. in ther words, I shifted without pressing the clutch pedal.

Anyone who drives in places other than hardball roads would probably tell you otherwise, though.. especially when you've got the power divider and diff locks engaged.

Check out my bio page for help on adjusting your semi-auto clutch.

You need a new clutch

this can be a problem,first you have to press the pedal about an inch do this several times,wait about an hour do it again.....if this doesn't work,it has to be power bled. you transmission shop can do it for you..... I had the same problem. The problem is the cylinder slants down toward the front and that is where the reservior and line connect. There is no good way to get all the air out while mounted to the firewall. Solution: unbolt from firewall with lines and reservoir attached. Tip the cylinder up in the front and use a vacuum bleeder at the slave cylinder.

Imogen Syms

there are 19 different types of clutch

Typically, yes. When a clutch engages it is the result of the springs of the pressure plate pinching the clutch plate into the flywheel. Anything that results in less pressure against the clutch plate will result in slipping. A worn damaged plate spring can end up creating less pressure. A worn clutch plate will not be as thick resulting in less pressure.

Slipping can also be caused by oil that may have leaked onto the clutch plate.

Unfortunately, the only way you can determine the cause of the problem will be to remove either the transmission or the engine so that you can examine the clutch assembly.

If you lift your boot and under the boot carpet is a compartment with a hazard warning on it. Lift the cover off and you will see a handle pull that hard and it will release the brakes on the back wheels.This will probably leave you with a warning on your dash saying Parking Brake Fault. To cure this and get your handbrake working again take the negative lead off your battery and put it on again the ECU resets itself and the warning goes off your dash and your handbrake is working again. You would then have to reset your emergency handle in the boot that is excatly were i am up to as my brakes locked over the weekend and i had to use the emergency handle to release them but i dont think it is to hard looking at the manual or take it to a competant garage and i'm sure they can do it quite cheap.

Internal trans problem.

That would really depend on how the car was driven, if it was driven really hard the clutch would proberly go alot quicker.

I have a T sport on 45k miles and original clutch is still fine, you shouldn't have to change the clutch until it starts to slip.

the gearbox has to come out,get the front of the car as high as poss on axle stands,remove n/s plastic shield,remove n/s wheel,remove driveshft nut,split bottom ball joint+remove shaft from hub,remove all bellhousing bolts (theres a 19mm bolt right at the top that's hidden under the alloy breather housing)you can leave the starter motor on,remove speedo + clutch cables crank sensor wires(by speedo cable) +disconect gear linkage under car,support engine on trolly jack ,remove bolt from rear gearbox mounting,remove front gearbox mount complete, split o/s driveshaft from gearbox,lower engine slowly until gearbox will slide out,remove 6 bolts on clutch cover +remove driveplate,you can get a clutch kit on eBay for £29.90 inc p+p from bcp20040. fitting is reverse of removal but make sure clutch driveplate is cental to flywheel. PC-classics

Just to add to this the car I just changed the clutch on was a right Hand drive model.

don't listen to anyone who says its the same as the Vauxhall and you just need to remove the 5th gear cover and use a slide hammer etc, although I did this there is no way to fit a slide hammer I tried mole grips and other things but to no avail. so the above is right.

However I might add, Mark the gear linkage really accurately, I didn;t and it was a pain to get it to select the right gears after. its only millimeteres to get it tuned in so you can select all gears.

Where above it says split O/S Drive shaft I found it easier to remove the hub nut instead and leave the shaft connected, when the gearbox is ready to move out on a trolley jack ,if you take it steady you or an assistant can tap the O/S shaft out and it will move out with the box. I pulled the box just far enough away to get inside and replace the clutch and Bearing, I did this through the removable plate on the bellhousing.

To make fitting easier I slid the friction plate onto the box splines (to save lining it up dead on) I then pushed it back together then put the 6 bolts back in around the clutch and tightened them gradually rotating the engine when i had put 4 or five turns on a nut, just keep checking that everything is in line. when the clutch is fully tightened its just a matter of pushing the box back together it would be about 3 inches or so. Get a couple of bolts in and check the thrust bearing is central to the clutch and that its not off centre( which it can be if you overtighten the 6 clutch bolts uneavenly).

once that's done carry on as above, this way you wont lose gearbox oil, and although its red it isn't ATF. which i thought it was after removing the 5th gear cover. its much thicker than ATF, I shoved about 300cl of 80/90 gearbox oil in through the speedo drive hole. and it runs fine. ( the level plug is at the back of the box on the inside near where the O/S driveshaft enters the box)

All in all I took a weekend to do this but wasted time with seized nuts and trying to do it the Vauxhall way wasted a day. good luck

Because it is a wheel which flies or rotates about a fixed axis.

To shift up, no, a full clutch squeeze (disengagement) is not required. To shift down, it is strongly recommended to completely squeeze the clutch in. Sqeezing the clutch lever all the way in to the grip reduces loads on the transmission, so in common street riding applications it is best to disengage the clutch fully while shifting either up or down.

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