Clutches and Flywheels

YES

Short of having a service manual in front of me, it's basically like this: Disconnect the battery, the reverse switch, disconnect the shift linkage, disconnect/remove the clutch slave cylinder, remove the wheels, put the car on jackstands, loosen the steering knuckles so you can then pull the axles out of the tranny, loosen all the transaxle to engine bolts, get a floor jack (or better yet a transmission jack), gently pull (wrestle) the thing away from the engine and then drop it down, remove the pressure plate from the engine, the friction disc will then fall out, inspect the flywheel and replace if necessary, replace the release bearing, install new pressure plate and friction disc (keep your greasy hands off of the friction disc!!) making sure to put the correct side of the friction disc out and then align the center of the friction disc with the hole in the flywheel, Gently align and mate the tranny and engine back together, then follow the above steps in reverse. Simple, it just takes a lot of time, sweat, and maybe some bad language to complete the job.

What you really need is a good repair manual in front of you to walk you through the procedure and to give you the exact steps for the Focus clutch. A helper would be nice too. Also, another car if you have to get parts or supplies. The first front wheel drive car I changed a clutch on took me most of the day, after a few it gets a little easier.

Then again, it might be worth it to pay someone else to do it, depending on your comfort level for doing major work to the car.

to my knowledge the bronco is an automatic, so you dont have a flywheel. you have a flex plate and ring gear.need to know why you want to replace this

yes you do,also if it has a cluch damper,you need to bleed it also,its bolted on left side firewall or just follow the line coming from clutch master cylinder.good luck.

The clutch disconnects drive from the engine to the wheels. It is required to change gears.

A lot more work than it is worth, you will need to change the brake pedal, Remove the clutch pedal, master cylinder and slave, trans mounts may be different, center console, flexplate and torque converter

You will need to remove the transfur case first and then remove the transmission

Then just take the bolts out of the fly-wheel on the back of the engine and replace it with the new fly-wheel and then put everything back together.

This is a major job if your not a mechanic. You may want to take it to a shop.

A very expensive trip to a clutch specialist

Go get a buddy to help you out.

Top off the clutch master cyllinder with brake fluid.

You're going to need a big bowl or the equivalent to catch brake fluid as it comes out of the slave cyllinder.

Crawl under the beast and find the slave cyllinder, have your buddy sit in the cab, find the bleeder screw and loosen it just a bit. Then have your buddy slowly push in the clutch, (the pedal might just drop to the floor if its a new slave cyllinder, but that's ok) tell him to hold the pedal to the floor, tighten the bleeder screw and then tell him he can release the clutch pedal (its very important that he doesnt release the clutch till the bleeder screw is tightend again)Repeat the process until clutch pedal is firm, and shifting is easy. But be sure to keep the fluid in the clutch master cyllinder at the proper level.

The last year the mx-3 was mad was 1996.

Make sure the master cylinder is kept full of fluid at all times and put your helper inside with foot on clutch petal, with the car jacked up and stands in place locate slave cylinder on drivers side and place a 11mm wrench on the bleed valve,. have the cockpit man push on the petal and hold it down, then open valve and let air and fluid escape being careful not to get fluid in eyes, tighten valve and tell helper to let petal return. its petal down-loosen-tighten-petal up. Repeat this process several times to remove air.

Clutch safety switches are usually mounted under the dashboard above the clutch pedal, so that they are activated when the clutch is depressed.

nope, too many people go nuts when they play it.

Mobil One Race 4T...Clutch is in the crankcase..so the clutch is lubricated with the same oil as the rest of the engine...Mobil one is full synthetic, and I have been told not to run less than 20w50, although I use 10w40 in my yzf 450 and my yzf-r1......

On a 1996 Ranger the manual shows to lift the clutch pedal every 5000 miles to adjust the hydraulic clutch - I have no idea if your's is the same

I don't know but I'm having the same prob, i just put new Red clutch discs and plates in my 1980 FXE 1200 and now the clutch grabs when letting it out cold but seems to get better when warmed up. It almost jerked me off the bike! big screeching sound, good thing no one was in front of me. I backed the 3 nuts off 3 clicks on the hub but still doing it. I'm thinking of putting my old discs back in still good.

To replace the clutch on a 106 you will need to remove the air box, battery, wheels and starter motor and disconnect the gear linkages. Before you remove the drive shafts drain the gearbox vie a 3/4 square drive plug located on the bottom of the gearbox (then remove the shafts).

After this you will need to support the engine and remove the engine mount from the gearbox.

Once this is done the electrical cables connectors and associated clips will have to removed from the gearbox.

Once you are sure that there is nothing left fastened to the box remove the gearbox bolts including the bolt located under the engine that secures the front pipe to the engine/gearbox.

The gearbox should then be removed by sliding it slightly to the N/S of the car to extract the input shaft from the crank and then lowering to the floor,

The clutch is then visible and can be replaced ensuring that the clutch is tightened evenly and properly aligned using the appropriate aligning tool (sometimes supplied with the new clutch).

Before refitting the gearbox it is always worth replacing the driveshaft oil seals on the gearbox as these can be a pain if they leak once the job is complete.

Refit the box and reassemble the components in reverse order remembering to refill the box with fresh gearbox oil

There isn't one. Your car has a mechanical clutch cable.

Rotate the switch on the rod for the master cylinder for the clutch. Take out the retaining clip. Remove the clutch pedal position switch from the rod. Disconnect the electrical plug. Plug the new clutch pedal position switch in and installation is the reverse of removal

have someone step on the clutch for you and see if the "folk" moves. if it does you'll know the cable is working fine.you may want to check the cable adjuster mounted on the pedal itself.a simple test to do and find out if the clutch plate is worn out. turn your vehicle on put it in gear and just let go of the clutch (with out hitting the gas)if the vehicle stays on your clutch disc is slipping and needs to be replace.if the vehicle dies obviously the clutch is ok.

rueda volante

burnt clutch will smell something like burnt brake pads.. usually clutch disk have semi metallic pads

Unless you are using it for something you shouldn't use a centrifugal clutch for, there are no disadvantages. But a clutch of that type can create a lot of waste heat through slipping while it is engaged.

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yes