Dodge Durango

under driver side dash

I think it was a factory option. The label on the drivers door jamb will show what size tires it was built with.

Took me forever to find. in front behind the fan and under a piece of the air intake assembly.. you should be able to lift it up and see it. Its a tad left (passenger side) of center.

That requires a scan tool.

The engine oil capacity for a 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9 Litre motor VIN Z is 5 quarts with a filter change.

--David Fox

i bought a 90.5 belt to bypass my ac compressor. Although I think anything from 89-91 should work also. You just don't want to have the tensioner leaning to far to the right. I have a first generation (1998) Durango SLT. AC Compressor clutch seized up on me.

First drain the radiator. Then you'll need to remove the fan and shroud. Then remove the belts, water pump pulley, and hoses. Make note of how the belts run. When removing the water pump, note which length bolts came from which holes so you can get them back on right. Also note the position of any brackets attached to the pump.

Be sure to scrape the mating surface on the engine clean, especially old gasket material. Match the new pump up to the old one to make sure they're identical. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant(Permatex, etc) to the new pump, then mate the gasket to it. Slide a couple bolts into their holes to keep the gasket positioned correctly. Apply sealant to the engine side of the gasket, then carefully mate the pump to the engine and bolt it in. Be sure to also bolt back on any attached brackets. Do not overtighten the bolts as you'll crush the gasket. If you have a torque wrench, the bolts should be tightened to 40in-lbs on the 4.7L V8, or 30in-lbs on the V6 and all other V8's. 23in-lbs if you're unlucky enough to have a 4-cylinder.

Reinstall everything else you took off, check the belt tension before replacing the fan and shroud. Fire it up and check for leaks.

The "rear speed sensor" should be located on the transfer case. Beware that you lose transmission fluid when you pull the old one out. It is a really easy fix though. It only takes about five minutes. On my 1999 Durango 4X4 with rear antilock brakes, the sensor for the antilock brakes, the speedometer, and the automatic door locks, is located on the rear differential. It's a magnetic sensor that has a retaining device, and slides into the top of the differential case. Getting the old one loose was challenging. The replacement went in pretty easily. Unplug the wire, remove the retaining hardware, pull or pry the old sensor out, put the new one in, replace the retaining hardware, and plug it back in. This instantly restored operation of the speedometer, and cleared the antilock brake fault. I didn't have to disconnect the battery to accomplish this, though for best safety to the computer, this would probably be a good idea. Also, supporting the truck with jack stands on the frame, so the differential is hanging off the the springs, greatly improves access to the area of the differential you're trying to get to. Even better is to get it up high enough to sit/stand under the truck.

I don't know why Durangos overheat but here is a solution that has TOTALLY eliminated my overheating problems. I would add that I live in Dubai and we get months where the temperature is over 110F. My Durango would overheat quickly in traffic and cool down when travelling.

My Durango is fitted with a mechanical fan behind the radiators. There are three or four radiators each cooling transmission fluid, air-con gas, engine coolant etc. So I decided to fit two 10" diameter electric fans in front of the radiators blowing back towards the engine. The only problem is that you need thin fans as the space between the back of the closed hood and the first radiator is only about 70mm (2,75").

The workshop wired the fans to the air-con circuit so that if the aircon is on the fans are on and vice-versa. They needed a secondary relay for the fans.

This has totally solved my overheating problem as well as getting the air-con to work from start-up and keep working. I can leave the car to stand for ages and the temperature gauge stays below half all the time.

There seems to be several types of Durango overheating, but for my type this works.

Just use a feeler guage between ground strap & electrode to measure gap. You should feel only slight resistance when you drag the blade through. Those round keychain type guages the easiest since you just tun to adjust value. Use a needle nose to bend strap if adjustment needed.

The 2004 Dodge Durango takes 26" drivers, 21" passenger side and a fairly hard-to find, specialized 14" rear wiper. See sources and related links below. Do not buy wipers just by length however, and be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers for the brand wiper you decide to purchase by vehicle make, model and year. This ensures correct length AND attachment.

The old style "slim jim" doesn't work on the newer vehicles.

when my 1998 Dodge Durango would start and cut back off, I had to reset the alarm by using the lock / unlock buttons on my key remote.

The 2013 Dodge Durango has a 5 yr./ 100000 mi. warranty against rust.

The 2006 Cadillac CTS-V has rear wheel drive.

it is accesible under the wiper cowl cover on the right side

The gas tank on the 2013 Dodge Durango holds 24.6 gal..

The 2005 Dodge Durango takes a special 14" rear wiper blade that is very simple to replace once you find a replacement. Unfortunately, most stores do not stock this special rear wiper blade so please see sources and related links below for more information and installation videos. Once you get the wiper blade, there will be step-by-step instructions on the packaging.

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

I have a 99 durango and the amount of refrigerant needed for the single unit and double unit are listed under the hood on top of the radiator.

It's probably a bad Powertrain Control Module (Main Computer). This is a note from one of my previous posts; Have you noticed the odometer display saying NO BU5? This actually means "no Bus", a communication term for a data route. It is saying that the dashboard sub-computer is not communicating with the main computer (PCM) which is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment, bolted just above the wheel well area. Check the 3 connectors to see if they are plugged in all the way. If they are, your PCM is probably bad (mine lasted 90k miles). This is something you can't replace yourself because the new one must be programmed with the mileage and VIN and other info by MOPAR before it's installed. Be careful, because when the PCM fails, your money pit (Durango) will start to suddenly stall at the worst times (Freeway, Boat launch, stop light on a one lane road) and not restart until you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and then reconnect. Good luck! The dealer charged me $800 to replace mine. $500 for the part and $300 to diagnose the problem. And I told them it was a bad PCM when I brought it in.

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most likely inside the tank some more of gm wonderful engineering marvels. they my have given you a wonderful deal on the truck now its time to pay the piper

MY 2000 dodge ram 5.9 has 1-inch and five eigths and 1 that is an inch and 1 that is an inch and seven eights. these are the three in the back of the engine .