Dodge Durango

Two lights from the front two at the back. i wish i could change that but there you go

This code appears on the odometer display. It is actually "NO BUS", meaning that the communication "bus" (or data path) has been interrupted between the vehicle's powertrain control module (PCM, Main computer) and the dashboard processor (mini computer). On my Durango, the cause was a faulty PCM. Other sysmtoms included having the truck shut down randomly and "check engine" light coming on, but throwing no code at the OBD-II port. Check the connections on the PCM (there should be 3). It is probably mounted in the engine compartment, above the passenger wheel well. If the connections are good, and you can't find any other disconnected wires, it's probably the PCM. A dealer/mechanic must change it, because it needs to be programmed by Chrysler with VIN and mileage. I paid $800. Good luck!

I would suggest that, instead of relying on the previous posters answer you get someone to check the actual connections to and from the components. In my case it was a wire that had rubbed through the insulation. A simple fix that didn't even cost 8 cents.

***SUM'S Answer***-As far as I know, owning a Dakota with a 318. Yeah it should work.

Tell Honda to stop making cars that way! Seriously, I heard there's a way you can change the mode on your keyless entry, to make it just the lights. See your owners manual. Try typing "honk lock" on Google and see what pops up. Sorry I can't help you more.

It depends who does it and what exactly is damaged. $1000-3000 depending on how much engine damage their is.

The 2005 Dodge Durango has 12 valves.

The 2008 Dodge Durango has a 3.7 L base engine size.

There isn't an individual fuse. It is run by the engine computer. Check the vacuum line running from the intake to the cruise servo.

There isn't an individual fuse. It is run by the engine computer. Check the vacuum line running from the intake to the cruise servo.

It monitors the atmospheric (outside) temperature.

Could be inside the fuel tank, or along the lines that lead up to the engine.

It seems that Dodge vehicles around that year tend to have trouble with the water pump. E-How has a decent article on checking your water pump here: http://www.ehow.com/how_7679_tell-cars-water.html

First, check your coolant level (there is a cap under your hood that says "Coolant Only", probably yellow, toward the grille, and probably on your right if you are standing at the grille facing the car. Check the coolant dipstick and make sure that you are topped off. It is possible to overheat before the check coolant light comes on. Also, when your car has been sitting for 3 or more hours without being run check the radiator cap and make sure that it is on tight. Before touching the radiator cap make sure that it is cool.

Just had to do a rad replacement on my own 93 Skylark 3.3, and it's a tricky and long process. First you'll need to remove the cooling fan, which is accomplished by undoing one bolt at the top of the mount, unplugging it, and lifting it out; it's a tight squeeze with the exhaust manifold in the way, so take your time. The coolant radiator is bolted to the AC radiator in the front, and there should be two bolts holding them together facing the front of the car; they're behind your headlight mountings, and are tricky to get at if you don't remove the lights first. There is also an AC line that runs directly over the top of the radiator; you WILL have to disconnect the pressure-bolt for it (located on the passenger's side) and relieve the freon from the AC system to remove your radiator (this is *the* catch of doing a rad replacement in a '93 Skylark). Back off the bolt very, very slowly until it begins to hiss; you'll have to let the AC system bleed off until there is absolutely no hissing at all, perhaps backing off the pressure very very slightly if the hissing stops to allow more space for the freon to escape. When working with freon, be very, VERY careful, wear gloves, safety glasses and a breathing mask (or at least a rag or shirt over your nose and mouth) because it is highly toxic and very cold when it contacts air. You WILL have to get the AC system recharged at an auto shop (which these days is no small amount of cash, since you can't buy freon/R-12 recharging kits in the store the same way that you can get R-134a). After the AC line is disconnected, you can move it out of the way (it is connected to a flexible hose on the driver's side) so that you can drain your radiator if you haven't already. Be sure that you've let the engine cool for a good hour or two so that you aren't burned by the coolant; the stopcock is a small, hand-turnable valve located on the driver's side at the very bottom of the radiator that will allow you to drain most of the coolant from the rad. Disconnect the hoses from the engine block-to-radiator (located on top-driver's side) and overflow tank-engine block-radiator (should be an odd-looking 3-way hose at bottom-passenger's side). After all this, unbolt the two radiator retaining bolts--will be just above the radiator, facing the engine--and pull the radiator toward the engine and out of the car; be careful not to jostle or bump your coils or spark-plug wires, the clearance there is very tight. Putting another rad in is basically a reverse of the process--good luck!

Leave the belt on while removing the fan clutch. Leaving the belt on doesn't always work, and did not in my case. There are two other options that should work. One is to take off the serpentine belt and use a strap wrench to hold the water pump pulley in place while turning the fan clutch nut. The second is to make your own tool. I took a strip of metal and drilled two holes in it that matched the distance between holes on the water pump pulley. This distance was around 3" for me. I then put two bolts through the holes that were big enough to fit in the water pump pulley holes and nutted the bolts so they were tight against the strip of metal. I then put the bolts into the water pump pulley and held the strip in place with a wrench wedged against the engine block while I turned the nut. A more complete tool could be made by welding or bolting a long handle onto the strip so it can be easily held and keep the puley from rotating.

Well the first question is by yourself, or with someone else?

There are many kits available at your local autoparts store to diy, one man brake bleeding kit is what they are called. The instructions inside are very self explanatory.

The car can be off or running your choice, it doesn't hurt either way, cooler for the person under the car if it isn't running, yet more work for the brake pedel man.

Make sure the master cylinder is full before anything, the store will tell you either dot 3 or dot 4 try not to mix'em up. Just bring the master cylinder to the full line. Also periodically check the level to make sure that it remains full, No point in working at blleding your brakes if your just going to force more air into the lines.

Left wheel:

Rotate the wheels all the way right and climb behind the tire (it makes it easier if you jack the durango up and remove the tire adn wheel but it isn't nessacary) there will be a small rubber black cap on the top of the brake caliper assembly. Remove this and set aside take an open ended box wrench (I believe a 7/16" but it is raining out and I don't want to check, just use the one that fits) open the valve 1/4 turn or maybe 1/2 Just enough to allow the air to pass. Have the other person step on the brake repeatedly until they say the pedal is "firming up". Down below you will here them forcing the air from the lines once you see fluid tighten the valve replace the cap, and clean any surface that got brake fluid on it thoroughly with brake cleen (brand name not spelling error) Replace the tire/wheel and lower the car.

Right wheel: same just wheel position

Rotate the wheels all the way LEFT and climb behind the tire (it makes it easier if you jack the durango up and remove the tire adn wheel but it isn't nessacary) there will be a small rubber black cap on the top of the brake caliper assembly. Remove this and set aside take an open ended box wrench (I believe a 7/16" but it is raining out and I don't want to check, just use the one that fits) open the valve 1/4 turn or maybe 1/2 Just enough to allow the air to pass. Have the other person step on the brake repeatedly until they say the pedal is "firming up". Down below you will here them forcing the air from the lines once you see fluid tighten the valve replace the cap, and clean any surface that got brake fluid on it thoroughly with brake cleen (brand name not spelling error) Replace the tire/wheel and lower the car.

Hope that answers it. Dave

rear end lub is 90 weight oil.

the kind is a personal preference.

The 2006 Kia Rio has front wheel drive.

no it is def. your PCM bad news but there is a place in FL. autocomputerexchange.com that rebuilds PCM's and are at a good price!! just had the same problem computer read all kinds of problems and bad parts after a few months of that but a found at the dealer that the PCM's are real bad about that. the heat in the engine compartment is to hard on the PCM and makes shorts internal. the dealer wants like $700+- ace if i remember is only like $200 much better deal and you get a better waranty than the dealer!

It could be your mass air flow sensor (MAF)

It's probably a bad Powertrain Control Module (Main Computer). This is a note from one of my previous posts; Have you noticed the odometer display saying NO BU5? This actually means "no Bus", a communication term for a data route. It is saying that the dashboard sub-computer is not communicating with the main computer (PCM) which is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment, bolted just above the wheel well area. Check the 3 connectors to see if they are plugged in all the way. If they are, your PCM is probably bad (mine lasted 90k miles). This is something you can't replace yourself because the new one must be programmed with the mileage and VIN and other info by MOPAR before it's installed. Be careful, because when the PCM fails, your money pit (Durango) will start to suddenly stall at the worst times (Freeway, Boat launch, stop light on a one lane road) and not restart until you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and then reconnect. Good luck! The dealer charged me $800 to replace mine. $500 for the part and $300 to diagnose the problem. And I told them it was a bad PCM when I brought it in. P.S. Even if it's not giving the odometer indication, suspect the PCM. I didn't notice the "NO BU5" indication right away when the thing would kill on the highway.

If your computer is shutting down when it starts theres something wrong with one of the startup programs. While booting start the computer in safe mode((continuously press F8 at the time of booting)). Click on start-->run.
Type "msconfig" and press enter. A new window opens. Click on the startup tab. Click on disable all.
Now restart the computer in normal mode. If it starts normally then locate the program causing this conflict by enabling some programs one by one in the msconfig startup menu((This time in normal mode only)). I think it will work
If it still not work, you can try a registry clean tool
download registry easy here
http://www.keep-pc-clean.com/

Remove the plastic cover underneath the radiator(passenger side) to access the radiator drain and you will need a large screwdriver.

get a service manuel ..... the water pump is behind and run by the timing belt .... if you are not experianced at setting up the timing marks on a DOHC motor get help or take it to someone who is .........

See link below for a complete list of OBDII codes.