Dodge Power Wagon

230hp and 360 ft lbs of torque. its a good question. with the "muscle car" era over with by '76 and the gas crunch in full swing, horsepower for almost all production engines were probably modest. efficiency was engine economy by design, not what it is today- i mean you can get 500+ horsepower out of a 4 cyl front wheel drive these days. now, our technology has advanced where you can get V-8 power with the gas consumption of a 4 popper. i would venture to say that your 440 in your power wagon is likely in the 300 hp range. being a heavy truck and a 4x4 at that your engine produces alot of low end torque. high hp is something that impresses people who dont have a complete understanding of how an engine makes power. its torque that makes the car/truck haul a**. your 440 may make 400+ horsepower at the flywheel, but by the time the power reaches the rear wheels, that 400 figure is down to 300 because of power loss when power is transfered through the transmission. you can change components to help minimize power loss- changing gear ratio in your trucks rear end, using different size tires, changing your torque converter to a higher stall. these are some ways that will improve the output your engine produces. the most accurate way to determine your 440's hp is to have the engine tested on a dynamometer. the dyno will measure your 440 hp output in rpm's as well as torque in ft.lb.'s its is measured incrimentally at specific rpms so your engine's peak hp level can be determined and peak torque can be determined. your engine may acheive 300 hp at say 5500 rpm and peak torque of 280 ft.lbs at 4500 rpm. its really cool, have your engine tested. i hope i have helped.

Yes, and easier than you might think..... Just get the hubs, knuckles, etc. off an '81-84. It's a very popular conversion and there's plenty of aftermarket parts available. If you do an internet search for "power wagon forum" you can find plenty of guidance and information on pretty much any project for your truck.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

well, either you have CV joints or a drive shaft. if its a drive shaft you replace the universal joints just like you would on you rear drive shaft. if you are talking about the axle universals on a 4x4 you have to start by removing the brake rotor this would be a good time change the bearings, even if the dont need to be it will be a good preventive messure. from there you be able to see the outer axle assembly and the u-joint check for retaining clips either on the u-joint caps or toward inside behind the yolk eyes. remove the the retaining clips and use a BRASS hammer and maybe an old socket that is just a bit smaller than your u-joint caps and knock the u-joint out, this may take a little bit of strong fanese and a few choice word( i found that helps). when installing new part it helps to have a large C-clamp to press caps in place. hope this helps

It means your screwed. Got a 2007 myself and can not figure it out.

Chrysler a727

It could, all though 300,000 is more the normal limits.

if its a half ton ie:150 its 5x5.5

'the rotary switch in the drivers door has 3 positions "R centre and L" if it is in the centre then his only turns on the heated mirror facility twist it to r and you can then use the switch as a joystick to move the mirror up down in out. move the switch to L to move the nearside mirror'

No.

Probably not (if you mean a corvette c4 transmission) cause the dodge engine wasnt made to bold on to a Chevy transmission.

but you could make it work if you know how to weld using and arc welder and makeing you own mounts for it.

The timing is 2 degrees before top dead center for a stock 400 cid. At least, that is what it indicates on my valve cover. My truck is a 1977 W200 with a stock 400 cid engine. Because of changes in the composition of today's gas, over what is used to be when that label was glued to my valve cover in 1977, many have suggested that it would run better if the timing were advanced a few degrees. Others have said that the carb should be recalibrated as well. Hope that helps.

On ALL 351 Ford V8s, regardless of year and engine family, the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. The distributor spins counter-clockwise and from above the engine, the cylinders are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4 on the passenger side from front to back and 5, 6, 7, 8 on the driver side from front to back.

I will try to explain in the simplest way. a) You need to know the cylinder nos first. Then Follow the spark plug lead from plug towards the distributor cap, mark that # on the distributor cap. b) next take off the distributor cap. c) rotate the engine slowly in correct direction (in which your engine rotates when it is running). d) now the rotar in your distributor with rotate too. Observe the order in which it passes by the spark plug lead. This is your firing order.

Sometimes it is cast right in the block of the engine in letters. Sometimes it is in the owners manual. It is usually in a shop mechanic book. You can also find your particular order online by make and model and year.

99 Mercury Mistake firing order is: 1-2-3-4 facing engine left to right on coil: top left 1 top right 3 bottom left 4 bottom right 2

look on thetop of the intake manifold

it's always there number hyphen

number hyphen so on

its not always there... but some times you get luck with that...

If you don't want to buy a manual for your vehicle which you can get at most auto parts stores now for around $9-$15, Most public libraries carry these books on the shelf or for those without home internet service, you can use theirs either free or very cheap.

Check out the following website link:

modeltech.tripod.com

This shows the engine firing order for each spark plug. The newer Distributor Caps have the spark plug number, so if you know which is number one on the distributor cap and on the engine, and so on, you are good as gold.

Also, when removing the existing wiring, you should also replace the distributor cap and rotor. It is usually a good idea every 50,000 miles.

The firing order of a 1992 Ford 351 V8 is as follows: Firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On the distributor,it goes counterclockwise (CCW). Passenger side is cylinders 1-2-3-4 (front to back). Driver side is 5-6-7-8 (front to back).

If you live in an area that has a local autozone you can call them up and they can give it to you. If you do not leave me your vehicles make model year and engine size and i will get it to you as fast as i can.

It is almost always stamped on the top of the intake manifold or on the engine block itself.

The quickest way to find the correct firing order without looking around the engine (especially dirty and oily engines) is to call your local auto parts dealer (Autozone, NAPA, etc.) and ask them. All you need is the general engine and car specs.

I have a 1993 Saturn SC2 Coupe, and got my wires mixed up when I was replacing them. I called AutoZone and the guy told me that the firing order is 4-1-3-2. I installed the wires in this order, started up the car, and it idled VERY roughly. I immediately shut it off and called a local Saturn dealership. The guy in the service department told me that the correct firing order is 4-1-2-3. I reconnected my wires and it started right up and idled perfectly. A word of caution: many times "the guys" at your local auto parts stores can point you in the right direction, but they are not necessarily the experts. If you ever have questions like the firing order, go straight to the source. Call the experts at the dealership for your car's make.

You have to set the motor on tdc and pin the motor with the pin that is behind the pump and pin the pump. Then remove the lines and then in the front of the pump in the gear housing where there is an oil filler or cap you remove and there is a nut that goes through the gear you must pull loose. Then remove the 4 bolts that hold it through through the front and some have a rear bracket on the bottom.

YOU MEAN THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR?

The voltage regulator is basically a gatekeeper that will shut off the flow of juice to your battery if the voltage goes above a certain level, usually 14.5 volts. This keeps your battery from getting overcharged and cooked.

They call it an external voltage regulator nowdays because newer alternators have them built into the alternator unit itself

There probably are many reasons, but the only other one I can think of at the moment is a defective ignition coil, which has a "thermal intermitent" [occurs only at and above a certain temperature] which could be either a short, or an open.j3h.

it broke

Ive got a 1978 3/4 ton with 7 inches of lift with 35 12.5s on it with no problem, pretty sure thatd work for yours too. It mostly depends on how wide the tires are, if they are too tall/wide they'll rub in the front when you turn.

The Dodge 383 is not a stroker like a Chevy small block engine. The 383 was a factory offering from Chrysler, and is one of the "B" series engines. It is very similar to the other Chrysler big blocks like the 413, 426, 400 and 440.

if its in good shape i would probably give up to 3 G's for it

it has a 30 gallon tank mounted under truck or a 17 gallon tank mounted behind the seat in the cab

You have to pull the stearing wheel, once that is out of the way there is the turn single switch, remove that, under it is the stearing wheel locking plate. It has a pin that comes up though one of the holes, that's what locks the wheel. Push the pin down, it's spiring loaded so watch your self. If I remember right it has two screws that holds it in place. Remove the wheel locking plate. There is you switch.

either a 305 (5L) or a 350 (5.7L) I know there was also a 6 cylinder but not sure if it came in thisTo be more exact, It is likely it is a 301Y motor. This was the corporate engine for GM and they put a lot of them in the wagons. Count back from the last letter of theVIN to # 10. If it is a "Y" that tells you. I am in the process of swapping from a Y motor to a Chevy 350 now. (easier to work on)

CORRECTION TO THIS ANSWER - The Y motor is not a 301. It is a 307. The 301 was a Pontiac engine that was discontinued in the late 70's or early 80's. The 307 (which is an Oldsmobile engine) was, infact, the replacement for the Pontiac, Buick and Cadillac engines. Another variant of the Y block was the 9, which is a roller cam version of the 307. Almost no Chevys ever came with an Olds 307. Caprices and Impalas almost always had 305s but many came with 350s, such as the 9C1s and special order vehicles.

In 1989 the B-Bodies could have 4.3L V6, 305 V8, 350 V8, 307 V8 and a Diesel V8. Your wagon almost definitely has a 305.

The best way to tell is to either read your VIN or the RPO Sheet (either in the Glove Box or, more likely, on the inside lid of the rear seat lid). Look for the code that begins with L. This is your engine code. (Go here to see an example: www.glasscrosses.com/capricerpo.htm)

This is, of course only what your car had originally. To tell if your car has a Chevy or Olds engine, just look for where the oil is added. If it is in the Valve cover, it is a Chevy. If it is in a tall tube at the front of the intake, it is an Olds.

get a chiltons repair manual from the library for 1973 dodges.

check for tune-up. chack mass air flow meter.