Dodge Ram

5 on 5.5

might be time for a tune up change the plugs wires and coil packs. if problem contiues get the idle adjusted

first of all you must pull the axle nut. you will need a 32mm or 34mm socket, depending on the axle,a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a four foot piece of pipe. have an assistant hold the break while you turn the nut to the left.after you break th nut loose you may commence with taking the brake caliper and the caliper bracket off. next you will ned to take out the steering knuckle, however it is easier to just pull the tie rod, and both of the lower control arms, and then of course the upper control arm (1), because you cannot really get to the knuckle bolts that hold the end of the axle off until you can get it off and take a chisle and hammer to turn the nuts off DO NOT TAKE THE SHOCK BRACKET LOOSE!!. you DO NOT NEED A BALLJOINT, OR TIE ROD SEPARATOR!!! simply take a long handled screw driver or pry bar and push up or down, which ever you are trying to pull off, and any forged hammer and give the side of the joint a good smack while prying down or up on the joint. you may need to do this several times. and with factory hardware you need NOT worry about breaking the joints. after that the you must take the inner cv joint boot loose, this can be accomplished by using a screw driver and taking the end clip tabs and prying them up. the boot moves much similar to a pipe clamp on ventilation duct work. next pull out the inner cv joint end. you should not meet any resistance, however if you do, take a rubber mallet and tap the axle while pulling it away from the tranny. gently pull the axle through the shock/strut bracket and you magically have your cv axle. if you heard cracking in you axle you probably nee to replace the "tripod" on the inside, the axle is probably not messes up, but cracked boots allow sand, rocks, salt, etc. to get into the cv joint and you hear that great crackling sound when you turn, or go down the highway. if you are insistant on replacing the axle though, you can go to your nearest autoparts dealer and get yourself another set. before installing the new ones use a good degreaser and clean the inside of the inner (constant velocity) c.v. joints. use a good grease, i recommend Lubriplate grease and slop a good CLEAN handfull into the joit. if you don't already have the boot on the end of the shaft put it on now. then take your new shaft and tripod and coat the tripod and it's end liberally with grease before placeing it into the inner cv joint housing, reclamp, and reassemble the steering components in the reverse order you took them off. hope this long SOB helps out. PS: the outer CV joint can be replaced, but for the time and cost, you would be better off replacing it.

If it's just occasionally, it may be a sticky thermostat.

It is in the rubber snoot that comes off the TB

The 6.7L uses two heated O2 sensors in the exhaust system.

no another no here also

Check the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forums for in depth discussion on how to do this yourself. If your truck has a 2 piece Drive-line, it seems the 2 piece Drive-lines are pressed together and require special tools to remove and also a press to put back together. While the drive-line is apart, you simply unbolt the old carrier bearing and replace with a new one. I have a ram 3500 w/ 2 piece drive-line and am about to try this myself, but am also looking into solving this issue permanently by purchasing a 1 Piece aluminum drive-line. the 1 piece will also eliminate any shudder you get with a current 2 piece assembly.

There is not one

See sources and related links below to lookup Dodge Caravan brake light lamp part numbers by vehicle year.

1 11/16 inch

it is possible that your brake hoses are bad and soft not letting the brake fluid back out of your calipers

How do I get a diagram of how to rebuild the steering column on a 1990 dodge ram 4x4, tilt wheel

If it is an after market stereo, sound as if someone spliced the stereo power source wire (Hot Wire) into the wire going to the headlight switch.

Call a plumber or a contractor. Sometimes it would be too much money to fix or too much problem. If you do decide to buy the house, see if they will fix the problem or take some money off of the price, and with the money saved you can fix it:)

If it were me I would take the air bag back out and make sure the wires arn't "pinched" or broken and make sure that it has a good tight connection with the clockspring connector. If that doesnt solve it then the airbag control unit has failed for somereason. Hope this helps some.

Stock an automatic is 195 hp a manual is 215 hp.

The same ones the factory used.

The front wheel bearings are a sealed bearing. You will have to remove the hub from the spindle, remove the lock ring (aka C clip), and press out the bearing. Installation is in reverse order but with a new bearing. YOU WILL NEED A SHOP PRESS TO REMOVE THE BEARING AND THE BEARING RACES.

it is 45,40,35

The way I have changed them is by takin everything on the frount of the engine that in cludes the radatior, radatior fan, water pump, then depending on the size of the motor if it is a 6 cylinder or 4 cylinder bolth need to be inline not v6 and we all know there are not very many v4's out there. Anyways always make sure that you have the the #1 cylinder on topdead (TDC)center on the compression strock that is when the valves will be bolth shut that goes for eight cylinders too. But here is the difference on the eight cylinders you need to take off the intake manfold in order to get the timing cover off. Onece you get the cover off you need to check and make sure that the two are lined up or oposing each other i am not sure which way they go it should be in the instructions with the part or you can call your local NAPA Auto Parts Store. Now the way i have always checked for the #1 cylinder to be on TDC is i take the spark plug out and have a friend crank the engine slowly by hand off the crank that way when i feel the air buliding up agenst my finger i know that is when it is almost TDC then i puy a straw that is long into the spark plug hole and watch it rise up and then keep watching and when it stars to fall you know you need to turn the engine back just alittle back. I hope this is helpful if you have any more questions just post it and ill try to answer it.

look at the front of the motor and your see the nu 1 injector line on the right side of the head break the line loose and have someone turn the motor over tile the air bleeds out carful not to get the starter to hot and when the air is out it will fire right up but unless you ran it out of fuel or did something wronge putting in a new fuel fifter you may have a hole in the line some where

I assume you're talking about the wheel brake cylinders. There is one on each wheel. The two in front clamp the brake disks. The two in back are inside the back drums.

Fix the rear signals.

The most common cause of this is the wires going from the front to the rear.

These might need to be replaced.

It could of course be as simple as changing the bulbs.

It might have something to do with a fuse, but if so, then the wires are probably faulty. A shortcut somewhere. Replacing wires would fix this.

It might be due to a faulty relay. Changing this might fix the problem.

Your best bet is to take a tennis ball or rubber raquet ball and throw it at one of the windows. It wont damage the car, but the vibration should set off the alarm.