Dodge Ram

270 ft of torque at 2,400 rpm and 175 hp at 4,000 rpm

Yes. You will go very slow since most diesel engines make low rpm's. If you mate a gasoline engine to a diesel transmission you will go very fast since most gasoline engines make high rpm's. Transmission adapter plates and other modifications can be made but be prepared to fail

5 quarts 10w30

5 quarts 10w30

The overdrive solenoid is on the top of the valve body inside the transmission. The pan and valve body have to be removed to access.

Voltage, temperature, and oil pressure.

The 2013 RAM 3500 has a 3 yr./ 36000 mi. basic warranty.

the tn/rd wire is a power feed the dg wire feeds the trailer brakes. the wt/tn wire is the brake switch input. the bk wire is ground

usually that sludge means coolant in the oil.might be a bad head gasket.

It is under the housing that the lower radiator hose hooks to on the engine.

Removal of the passenger airbag will not provide access to the heater core. The entire dash and HVAC housing need removed.

Check the linkage between the throttle and the controller box. There is a cable at the butterfly then switches to a nylon strap at the controller box/winch. More than likely the nylon is broke. A similar nylon is at Wally world for ~.80 a roll. Be careful of the length "very important" if you sew the piece together. A new box is a little above $200. Not sure if the cable is available as a single part. Hope this helps.

If I'm not mistaken, there is no cabin air filter on a 2002 Dodge Ram.

Four

Check the easy things first. Make sure there is enough coolant in system. check for bad thermostat being stuck in fully open position. After truck runs for about 10 to 15 minutes,gauge should move up about one third. If still blowing cold air, check upper radiator hose to see if it's hot, also check that water is flowing through system by squeezing hose and releasing it. You should feel water flowing and a squessing noise when releasing. If hose is hot and water is flowing, the door actuator my be faulty stuck in the AC (cold position. If you had a bad water pump, or loose belt, this would most likely cause your car to over heat. If you had a bad heater core, you would see water on floor on passenger side. This doesn't necessarily rule out heater core, cause It may be partially clogged not getting hot enough.

1972 through 1980 dodge cabs are interchangeable for the most part.

You need to buy a programmer to turn the pump up.

310

310

5 on 5.5

might be time for a tune up change the plugs wires and coil packs. if problem contiues get the idle adjusted

first of all you must pull the axle nut. you will need a 32mm or 34mm socket, depending on the axle,a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a four foot piece of pipe. have an assistant hold the break while you turn the nut to the left.after you break th nut loose you may commence with taking the brake caliper and the caliper bracket off. next you will ned to take out the steering knuckle, however it is easier to just pull the tie rod, and both of the lower control arms, and then of course the upper control arm (1), because you cannot really get to the knuckle bolts that hold the end of the axle off until you can get it off and take a chisle and hammer to turn the nuts off DO NOT TAKE THE SHOCK BRACKET LOOSE!!. you DO NOT NEED A BALLJOINT, OR TIE ROD SEPARATOR!!! simply take a long handled screw driver or pry bar and push up or down, which ever you are trying to pull off, and any forged hammer and give the side of the joint a good smack while prying down or up on the joint. you may need to do this several times. and with factory hardware you need NOT worry about breaking the joints. after that the you must take the inner cv joint boot loose, this can be accomplished by using a screw driver and taking the end clip tabs and prying them up. the boot moves much similar to a pipe clamp on ventilation duct work. next pull out the inner cv joint end. you should not meet any resistance, however if you do, take a rubber mallet and tap the axle while pulling it away from the tranny. gently pull the axle through the shock/strut bracket and you magically have your cv axle. if you heard cracking in you axle you probably nee to replace the "tripod" on the inside, the axle is probably not messes up, but cracked boots allow sand, rocks, salt, etc. to get into the cv joint and you hear that great crackling sound when you turn, or go down the highway. if you are insistant on replacing the axle though, you can go to your nearest autoparts dealer and get yourself another set. before installing the new ones use a good degreaser and clean the inside of the inner (constant velocity) c.v. joints. use a good grease, i recommend Lubriplate grease and slop a good CLEAN handfull into the joit. if you don't already have the boot on the end of the shaft put it on now. then take your new shaft and tripod and coat the tripod and it's end liberally with grease before placeing it into the inner cv joint housing, reclamp, and reassemble the steering components in the reverse order you took them off. hope this long SOB helps out. PS: the outer CV joint can be replaced, but for the time and cost, you would be better off replacing it.

If it's just occasionally, it may be a sticky thermostat.

It is in the rubber snoot that comes off the TB

See sources and related links below to lookup Dodge Caravan brake light lamp part numbers by vehicle year.

Check the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forums for in depth discussion on how to do this yourself. If your truck has a 2 piece Drive-line, it seems the 2 piece Drive-lines are pressed together and require special tools to remove and also a press to put back together. While the drive-line is apart, you simply unbolt the old carrier bearing and replace with a new one. I have a ram 3500 w/ 2 piece drive-line and am about to try this myself, but am also looking into solving this issue permanently by purchasing a 1 Piece aluminum drive-line. the 1 piece will also eliminate any shudder you get with a current 2 piece assembly.

no another no here also