Dodge Ram

well the 426 hemi has 425 horsepower stock and also the 6.1 hemi has 425 and the 5.7 hemi has about 380 horse power it can run the quarter mile around high 13.00 seconds in a dodge ram mabye 15.00 because of the weight of the truck

235 Horsepower/335 ft. lb. of torque

Yes

12 mpg city 17mpg hwy you can average 15-16 if it is running perfectly, with a very lite foot. With a heavy foot, trailer towing, or excessive idle time expect 8-10mpg

i may not b the best at that subject but i plugs into the transmissin pretty much

It can be a combination of things. MOST COMMON: Your IAC (or Intake air control valve); which sits behind the throttle body, could be clogged with black carbon build-up; which requires a bit of a process to get to, disassemble, replacing the TB gasket with a new one, and cleaning all areas with a non-corrosive cleaner very carefully.

If you IAC is fine, It could also be the cause of a leaky fuel injector, bad fuel pump, or even a fuel leak.

You first diagnosis is to test your fuel pressure and air control. Doing this requires you to turn the ignition to the on and off position while measuring the PSI (by not turning starting the truck). The measures should be around 40 PSI. Anything lower would indicate the problem is either your fuel pump or a leaky injector.

Turn the key on, engine off, press the gas pedal to the floor three times. Cycle key and light should be off.ok

I have a '79 Dodge Xplorer myself and I know that it can be very fidgety getting the thing to turn over if you don't have the battery terminals well hooked up. What have you tried to do thus far?

dealer must clear

DID YOU EVER SOLVE PROBLEM ,, THIS IS THE SAME THING HAPPENING TO MY TRUCK?

Check for looseness in the front axle u-joints.

Nowhere. The Aspen, like most domestic cars of that era, had the headlights switched directly by the dash-mounted headlight pull switch. The brights were directly wired through the floor-mounted dimmer switch. There is a self-resetting thermal circuit breaker. I think on this car it'd be part of the switch, but if not, it'd plug into the regular fuse box. It'd be a small metal rectangular box that pulls right out. There probably is also a fusible link that comes out of the positive feed on the battery that might be melted.

The water pump on all engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover. A gasket is used as a seal between the water pump and timing chain case/cover. If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft damage or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if any of these conditions are found. Also check condition of the thermal viscous fan drive. # Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. # Drain cooling system. # Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse. # Remove the plastic air cleaner intake tube. # Remove two-piece fan shroud Remove lower half first. Remove upper radiator hose at radiator. # The thermal viscous fan drive is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft Remove the fan/fan drive assembly from water pump by turning the mounting nut counterclockwise (as viewed from front) Threads on the fan drive are RIGHT HAND. A Snap-On 36 MM Fan Wrench (number SP346 from Snap-On Cummins Diesel Tool Set number 2017DSP) can be used. Place a bar or screwdriver between the water pump pulley bolts to prevent the pulley from rotating. # If water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt fan blade assembly from the thermal viscous fan drive. # Remove fan blade/fan drive assembly from vehicle. # After removing fan blade/fan drive assembly, do not place the thermal viscous fan drive in the horizontal position. If stored horizontally, the silicone fluid in the viscous drive could drain into its bearing assembly and contaminate the bearing lubricant. # Do not remove the water pump pulley bolts at this time. # Remove accessory drive belt as follows: The drive belt is equipped with a spring loaded automatic belt tensioner Relax the tension from the belt by rotating the tensioner clockwise (as viewed from front) When all belt tension has been relaxed, remove accessory drive belt. # Remove the four water pump pulley-to-water pump hub bolts and remove pulley from engine. # Remove the lower radiator hose at water pump. # Loosen heater hose coolant return tube mounting bolt and remove tube from water pump. Discard the old tube o-ring. # Remove the seven water pump mounting bolts # Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of bypass hose Slip the bypass hose from the water pump while removing pump from engine. Do not remove the clamp from the bypass hose. # Discard old gasket CAUTION: Do not pry the water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks. == # Clean gasket mating surfaces. # Using a new gasket, install water pump to engine as follows: Guide water pump fitting into bypass hose as pump is being installed. Install water pump mounting bolts Tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. # Position bypass hose clamp to bypass hose. # Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover. # Install a new o-ring to the heater hose coolant return tube Coat the new o-ring with antifreeze before installation. # Install coolant return tube and its mounting bolt to engine Be sure the slot in tube bracket is bottomed to mounting bolt. This will properly position return tube. # Connect radiator lower hose to water pump. # Connect heater hose and hose clamp to coolant return tube. # Install water pump pulley. Tighten bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque. Place a bar or screwdriver between water pump pulley bolts to prevent pulley from rotating. # Relax tension from automatic belt tensioner, Install drive belt CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. # Install the fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to water pump shaft. # Install fan shroud. # Install plastic air cleaner intake tube. # Install upper radiator hose and hose clamp to radiator. # Fill cooling system. # Connect negative battery cable. # Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.

Fuel pump, which is located under the intake, is upside down. Be care not to damage spacer plate. From there you will see the pump.

I am getting ready to attempt this same job on my 2500 4x4 truck leak in the same area in the frame rail near the fuel tank. If I have success I till let ya know what I did.

A common cause for an automatic choke to stick in a 318 Dodge truck is a dirty carburetor. A spray can be used to clean the carburetor to stop the choke from sticking.

Remove the wheel, brake caliper, the caliper mount and that should be everything that's wrapped around to the front of the rotor. Next take a can of anti-seize or WD40 and spray it liberally into the space around the mounting lugs for the tire. Let it sit a while then take a rubber mallet - making sure your car is stable and safely lifted - and gently tap the back of the rotor while spinning it slowly. Eventually it will come off, there is nothing that actually holds the rotor to the axle, especially after you take all of the brake equipment off.

Top center of the left valve cover.

Four forward, one reverse.

The diagnostic connector is along the wiring harness, under the hood, on the passenger side firewall.

The diagnostic connector is along the wiring harness, under the hood, on the passenger side firewall.

More than likely it is due to having aluminum intake (engine). The cold causes the intake to contract, although it will only contract a fraction of an inch, it is enough to allow extra air into the engine. Steel intakes do not constrict as much, but they do have similar problems, though not as pronounced. Without this air going through the air/fuel mixture your combustion chamber will be very lean therefore causing it to run a bit ruff. As soon as a little bit of heat builds it allows the intake to expand sealing off the leak. I have a 325ix and it doesn't like the cold. I also had (many years ago) a Datsun 280zx, with an all aluminum engine, and it too didn't like the cold.

The Heater core is difficult to replace on the RAM since it is buried in the plenum box. The box has a convenient door panel that you can open to remove and replace the core. The catch is that the convenient door is on the back of the box and you have to remove the heater box to get to it. This involves removing the steering wheel, steering column, complete dash panel, evacuating the AC, draining the radiator, and finally removing the heater box. Once you have the box out(8-12hrs), the core is simple to replace.

You want to be sure that the core is the problem before you undertake this process. If there is a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab or a puddle of coolant on the passenger side floor, the diagnosis is easy.

Check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. On a cold engine you can remove the radiator cap and check the level. It should be full. If there is air in the system it will affect cab heating and engine cooling.

Another good check is to feel the two heater hoses going into the firewall from a cold start. The hoses should warm up at about the same rate and get uncomfortably hot-close to radiator temperature.

Perhaps J.C. Whitney.com or Junk yard

An engine from a LIncoln would not be a direct fit into a Dodge. That would take a lot of modifications.

With a scan tool, or by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes

With a scan tool, or by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes