EGR Systems

Both

Does a 2000 pontiac gran am 4 cyl. Have an egr valve all that parts stores have is a gasket. Gm says it does not have one. Car shakes and shimmies when you stop at an intersection which everyone says check the EGR valve

I may be able to offer some help. I have just replaced the EGR Valve on a 2002 expedition with the 4.6 engine. If the motors are the same from 01-02 here's your answer. The EGR Valve is located on the driver side of the motor. It is all the way at the rear of the motor near the firewall. The valve has a circular top with a vacuum hose attached. there is an outlet/inlet pipe below the top. There is a metal hose attached to the outlet/inlet. This hose runs up from the exhaust. I started by removing the plastic shroud from the top of the motor. Then I removed the nut on the rear bolt of the assembly to move the hose support out of the way. Next, I removed the rear bolt. Leave the front bolt in place for now. There is a nut on the top of the metal hose that comes up from the exhaust. Loosen this nut and remove the metal hose from the bottom of the valve. Now remove the forward bolt. Here is where I apparently missed a step. After replacing the valve I cleared the trouble code. The service engine light soon came back on. After speaking to some mechanic friends I was told I should have removed the metal hose and cleaned out the carbon or at least have run a pipe cleaner through it. NOTE: I purchased the replacement EGR Valve directly from Ford. I was given the wrong part. The parts guy said it was an error on their catalog. I suggest you take your old valve to the parts counter with you to avoid this problem.

I'm not a mechanic but this is how I got it done. Maybe others can give you better advice.

I had the same problem with my 1999 Expedition so we removed the EGR valve and cleaned out all the carbin and reinstalled EGR valve Undo the batt for about 10 min. to clear computer

wdnndnnddn

It recirculates the unburned gas back through the intake to reburn it and cut down on emmisions.

Actually it is getting too much gas. Black smoke is an indication of an overly rich fuel mixture.

I think I'd start looking for vaccum leaks. New cars are much more reliant on strong vaccum than old clunkers. When you punch the brake pedal, the vaccum powered brake booster can steal needed vaccum from other systems in the car (i.e. fuel delivery or vaccum advance type ignition). In some old caddilacs a small vaccum leak can cause the flapper valves in the climate control system to go all nutty.

With the engine running, spray a mist of lps1 on suspect vaccum lines. Where there is a vaccum leak the liquid will dry rapidly off of the hose. Alternately you can flex some hoses around and listen for sucking sounds when you move them. Replace all leaky or cracked hoses.

I can not help unless I know what kind of vehicle it is.

i just did one today, the best way is to remove the airbox and conduit to the throttle body, remove the 3 plugs connected to the throttle body, remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts from the throttle body. there is a plug bracket connected to the lower left stud, this is for the egr temp sensor, disconnect it. now slide the throttle body off the studs about an inch or so so the egr can slide out. remove all the nuts from the valve including the two accessed from behind the intake (these are a little tricky, it helps to remove the 12mm bolt on the bracket that holds the intake plenum up and slide the bracket toward the drivers side) remove the modulator assy with its bracket (its got a short hose on it that attaches to the stainless tube on the egr valve) with all that out of the way you can pull the old valve out. replacement is reverse of removal.

Black smoke is a sign of a vehicle running rich. I would check for a bad fuel pressure regulator, bad fuel injector or very plugged air filter.

A fuel pressure test could tell you much.

So, if your getting gas - then it has to be spark or compression....put the 3 together and laws of science say you get a bang!

The P0443 code translates to: "Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit". To find more information on this code, go here: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0443 For a complete list of codes, go here: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

As far as I can tell, there is no EGR valve on 1993 Ford Aerostar 3.0L engines. I have searched and found none and the vacuum hose routing decal in the engine compartment does not show an EGR valve.

nope

you need a big wrench (1 1/16") a 14 mm wrench, and a 12mm socket with ratchet and 4" extension. loosen the large fitting on the bottom of the valve with the big wrench, remove the vacuum hose from the top of the valve, remove the 2 12mm nuts on the valve and the 12mm bolt on the plenum support bracket. slide the bracket out of the way then pull the valve away from the studs enough to slide it off the stainless exhaust supply pipe. slide the rubber hose off the sensor tube and unplug the egr temp sensor. remove the sensor with the 14mm wrench and install it on the new valve. the rest of the installation is reverse of removal.

Often there is a sticker under the hood showing it. Could also try the dealer.

would you mean a egr valve i worked on car about 15 years never heard of a ejr but if its a egr that would be a exhaust gas recirculation valve keep the internal combustion chamber cool while the engine running at high speeds

as hot as the exhaust manifold there are exhaust gases passing through it

Run a compression test. If the valves are properly seating, the compression will be up.

It means that you need a valve job. The black liquid is oil from your engine. Your engine is not making a tight enough seal for combustion therefore it sucks in oil and uses it in the combustion cycle. Be sure and check your oil level as im sure that your truck is burnin the hell out of some oil lol

The EGR should be located on the right side of the intake plenum on 96 to 99 Mustang GT's. Not sure if it is a V6. It is fairly easy to access and any parts store can generally show you where it is on the vehicle.

if its a 5.0 it would be right near the alternator, there is a plug in the very top that's a triangle shape with three screws in it (and a plug connected to the front of it. it should be grey in color and when u pull that off there will be a small metal stem attached to the bottom )and a threaded nut connected at the bottom with a metal pipe coming out of the bottom of the nut. its a big nut u need to twist off. but that's it right there on the passenger side

You are going to have to look at the underhood emissions sticker. I'm not positive if there is one or not, but most cars from this time period have an underhood emissions sticker that tells you what the spark plug gap, ignition timing, and idle speed should be. Attached to the sticker should be a drawing of how the vaccum lins are routed. If you cannot find this under the hood, you may have to get a service manual for the car. The factory service manual is always the best, but I believe Haynes manuals also have the vacuum hose routing listed. You can get Haynes manuals at auto parts stores like Auto Zone. I am not sure what vacuum control unit you mean, but I assume you mean the vapor canister, which controls evaporative emissions (i.e. gasoline that has vaporized). There should be one line going to the gas tank, and another line going to the top of the carburetor (the bowl vent line). These two hoses are relatively large. There should be a third, smaller vacuum hose hooked up to PORTED vacuum on the carburetor. Ported vacuum means vacuum that is present only when the throttle is depressed, as opposed to manifold vacuum which is present whenever the engine is running. You will have to figure out which port on the carburetor is for ported vacuum and which is for manifold vacuum. One way to do this is by using a vacuum gauge. It is possible that there is a fourth hose, (small hose) which is for manifold vacuum. It is unclear to me why this would be needed in addition to the other three, but I have seen canisters set up this way sometimes.