Ford E-150 Van

The e-150 heat/ac system uses vacuum to control the air direction through a series of doors. There is most likely a vacuum leak causing the defrost door to keep air flowing away from the dash vents.

well you could have a bad alignment . unless you know how to fix you own alignment take it to a steering place to get it done. firestone and a variety of other shops fix that. Track rod ends wear and become sloppy. Bottom ball joints wear out and are very difficult to check. You need to check these before checking your alignment.

right hand side of motor on bottom in front of transmission .

It is very simple to change the thermostat in a 2004 E 150 Van. The thermostat can be found by following the upper radiator hose. After the thermostat is found, disconnect the radiator hose and drain it. Then, you will remove the two bolts that are holding the thermostat housing place. Remove the old thermostat and replace it with a new one.

The headlights I know are on a 2001 Chevy Astro (Mine) there is a 10mm bolt holding the corner reflector on the body that gives you access to the lower bolt on either the left or right sides to remove the headlight assembly there are two 10mm bolts on the top of the assembly also to remove ;;the assembly then slides to the outside and tilt forward for replacement of the bulbs.

it is in the gas tank remove the bed. 4 bolts wireing and the fueling port get help removing the bed. the pump is easyly visable in the top of the tank.

I have a 1989 e-150 van- 4.9 6 cyl. These vans do not change much from model to model and year to year. Your 350 dipstick should be in the same position as the 150. To get at the dipstick you must partially remove the air filter compartment. Let's assume you are standing in front of the van facing the engine compartment. - lossen the 2 clamps on the right of the air filter and disconnect the 2 hoses. - disconnect the hose going over the top of the air filter. - pull the air filter compartment up slightly and disconnect the plastic air intake on the left of the air filter from the air filter compartment. - now, look into the space behind where the air intake was (slightly toward your left). You should see the white cap of the transmission filler. It's pretty well hidden and you may need a flashlight to locate it. Pull the dipstick out. Its about 3 feet long. FYI - this is were you would add fluid. Also, you should check the level with the engine running and temp above 50 degrees.

go to www.kbb.com enter the info and you'll see the value

Drain plug is called a pepcock. it is located at the bottom of the tank part of the radiator. To fully flush a radiator, you need to buy a flush kit. You can get it at any auto store. instructions are in the package.

Take of the cap on the power steering pump (located on the front lower drivers side of the motor), and the power steering fluid dip stick is attached to the bottom side of the cap.

the starter solenoid is on the starter the starter relay is mounted on the drivers side of the top front main support in font of the battery

USE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: ELECTRICAL, EYES, HOT COOLANT. With a cold engine. Drain the radiator into a pan, antifreeze is toxic to humans and pets. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the cover over the radiator, if installed. Remove the transmission lines (2). Remove the overflow hose from the radiator. Disconnect the upper radiator hose. Remove the fan blade, you may have to remove the clutch also. Remove the fan shroud. Remove the bottom radiator shield, from under the vehicle. Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the bolts retaining the radiator, may be on top or on the side of the radiator. Carefully remove radiator, being careful of wiring, oil lines, punctures of radiator core or A/C core.

Reverse procedure to install. Check for leaks. Do not fill with water only, use 50/50 water/antifreeze or engine will overheat.

If you do not have repair experience, have some with experience help you, it will save you a lot of money.

Copy & paste into your browser. http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-5288.htm

Red

at autozone

hi, if you can get fuel to the primer from the tank then your problem is in your carb.there's a screw on the side of the carb screw it all the way in then turn it in the opposite direction about 2-1/2 full turns if this works you can fine tune the carb by holding the throttle wide open with bike running and slowly turning that screw until the engine revs as high as possible.if this doesnt work then your carb needs to be cleaned

coil----3---4 pack---2---6 plug----1---5

Pull the fuse or just simply disconnet it.

It could be a multitude of things ranging from needing a tune up or plug wires or it could be something as simple as the Throttle position sensor. Usually if it's a TPS it will idle rather high and uncontrollable. If it happens only under load I would suspect a broken plug or bad wire.

Use a screw driver, but be carefull. Most of the black part just snaps in and out like a door panel.

I'm about to do this myself in the next hour, for the first time, so don't treat this as gospel..! Appears to be just two bolts, surprisingly accessible, from the left side; top & bottom of alternator. Seems those get removed, tilt the alt forward and disconnect the wires... that's it - I sincerely hope. It even seems that the belt goes on without removing anything else, a bonus since I will likely replace that too.

What I can't find is the amps on mine; so I'll have to get the most and pay the extra if they turn out not to be needed... oh well.

Well for my 1992 E-150 the factory put in a 35 gallon tank so I am guessing you have the same year van as me so to answer your question it will be 35 gallons.

7.3 liter diesel

Driver side, under dash.

4.3 liter GM engines... 1-6-5-4-3-2