Ford E-150 Van

Tom and Ray of Click and clack said it could be a faulty vacuum leak. We have not had time to get our 1995 van checked out yet

semi floating axles on E150. Full floating on E250 and E350

The toughest part of replacing valve cover gaskets is to clear a path to the valve covers proper. On engines with a lot of components, this can be a challenge. Remove the air filter and detach the spark plug wires (be sure to number the wires so you don't mix up the firing order). Remove any other parts (hoses, for example) that are in the way. It's also a good idea to disconnect the battery. Remove the bolts that hold the covers in place and lift the covers out. Cover exposed engine parts with a heavy cloth to keep dirt from falling into them. Use a putty knife to scrape off (carefully!) the old gaskets from the covers, and then clean the cover and engine surfaces thoroughly. Apply a gasket adhesive ONLY to the valve cover side of the gasket. Then re-install the covers, taking care not to overtighten the bolts. Gaskets range in cost from about $10 to $40, and the adhesive is about $2.

The 1999, 3.4 is 1-2-3-4-5-6, so it's farely possible the 1998 is the same. This is strange to me because the older engines were in a weard order compared to this, Something like 1-5-3-6-2-4 for the inline six. The cylinder placement is: The odd numbered cylinders are at the back side of the engine next to the fire wall, and the even numbered cylinders are along the radiator side. Numbers 1 and 2 are at the front end of the engine where the pulleys are located.

Remove all the screws in the heater core cover under the passenger side dashboard there are 2 rubber hoses under the hood in the engine compartment on the left side there are 2 quick connection connectors one on each hose it will be easier to cut off the ends of the heater core to remove the core much easier because the quick connection tool is hard to use so close to the firewall once you get the core out from under the dash you can remove the cut core ends from the quick connections with the connection tool once you get the new core installed and the cover back on you can just plug the hoses back on the new core with the same quick connection if you ruin these connectors you will need to get some radiator clamps

It sounds like the diaphragm it your vacuum brake booster is ruptured. There is a possibility that your air Idle control motor is bad also. After you change the booster and it still doesnt idle right then you know you need to change the latter.

i have a 1993 ford f 150 truck , it has the same problem, i removed the steering wheel and found a bad bearing. i just need a schematic drawing to see how to replace, and to see the order in which to remove.

converse

Yes there is a Map sensor.

You need to remove your door panel to get to the screws (torx type) on the inside of the door. There's a plastic cover that pulls off so you can see/get to the screws. 3 of them as I recall. two close and one set deep. Power mirrors will have a cable that needs to be disconnected. Mine were manual and easier to replace. Good cheap replacements at http://www.carmirror.com/results/index.php?make=FORD&year=1999&model=ESCORT+ZX2

There is a separate fuse for the daytime running lights (DRL). I think there might be a relay also. If the green DRL indicator comes on, but the lights themselves don't, check the fuse and the relay. I think it is in the fuse/relay center by the battery.

1. drain the radiator at the bottom drain nut 2. detached all the hose to the radiator 3. remove the screws of the radiator shroud from the radiator 4. unscrew the radiator and lifted out 5. remove the fan 6. remove all the belts 7. remove the black cover that covers the timing belt and water pump 8. remove the tension spring and the tensioner that holds the timing belt and slip the timing belt off 9. you should be able to get the water pump off

Sounds like idle is too low or may need tune up

Follow the pullies and the grooved ones,pull the one with wrench the one with the spring to the left so it will be loose to get the belt on

It depends on what year it is Should be located on the passengers side KICK PANLE. It has a RED button on the top of it.

I'll bite, how do you install a fuel injector on a 1994 Nissan Maxima.

Need engine size???

The flasher module for a 1998 Passat is located behind the emegency flasher button. The button(cover) pops off and the module can be pulled out with two pairs of needle nose pliers(one on each side) and unplugged from the electrical connector.

Directly in front of the battery, underneath the frame of the hood. You will need to remove the battery to work on it.

how do you install a fuel gauge for a 1989 ford 159 econline van?

EGAP is an organization that focuses on designing and implementing experimental research about governance, politics, and institutions. It is completely funded with a grant from Hewlett Foundation and DfiD.

I sent it to someone locally that works on older vehicles. It cost $200 per door. They used special crimping and rivet tools to install.

If it's not in the differential cover then it's in the side of the unit, probably a 3/8 drive square plug.

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered : 4 - 8 3 - 7 2 - 6 1 - 5 front

Generally there are two oxygen sensors for each cylinder head on all later model vehicles (some early models may only have one). Each upstream oxygen sensor is located directly below the exhaust manifold flanges and above the upstream catalyctic converter. Each downstream oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust pipe, directly behind the upstream catalyst, and ahead of the main catalyst. NOTE: Some very early models may only have one catalyst. The electrical connector for the right downstream oxygen sensor is located on the right side of the transmission. - Mazda Pickups Repair Manual == Try Removing the front tires behind plastic shielding to get to the sensors on the upstream O2 sensors and there should be another downstream "easier".