Ford Escort GT

The timing belt tensioner is under the timing cover(you most likely have that off already). I believe it is a 14mm bolt keeping it down, loosen that bolt and remove the tensioner spring with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Don't drop the spring!

15in

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On a 1997 Ford Escort :

Open the drivers door and on the latch pillar you will see an information

sticker . One of the things the sticker shows is the original size of tires on

the vehicle from the factory

This is actually much easier than most repair shops will tell you. We had the timing belt replaced on my son's fiance's '91 Escort at a cost of $750.00. When the belt on my '91 Escort let go, I replaced it in a little over 2 hours for $11.92, including tax!

My best advice to you is to invest about $12.00 (at my local AutoZone) for a small Haynes Repair Manual. This small manual will give you all of the instructions and photos needed to do the job. My water pump, idler pulley, and tensioning spring were all in good shape. Make sure you check these parts after you get the front end apart. Unless you have over 150,000 miles on your Escort, they're probably just fine.

I did find that it was easier to support the engine with blocking from underneath and pull the engine mount to get out the plastic timing belt cover. Other than that, the manual takes you through it step-by-step. It only requires basic tools (other than a puller for the crankshaft) and is quite a simple procedure.

If you don't have a gear puller, either buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight (that's what I used) or borrow one from your local parts house. AutoZone and Checker Auto loan their tools for free with only a deposit until you return them.

I would say "Good Luck", but you won't need it. It's really easier than it seems.

THERE IS A VAC LINE OFF OR BROKEN REMOVE THE HEATER CONTROL PANLE THEN SET FAN ON LOW AND SEE IF YOU HEAR A HISSING SOUND. I HOPE THIS HELPS

Top speed was 65 mph.

If your car pulls to one side when you release the wheel it could be one of a few different things. Most commonly this means it needs an alignment. There are three different alignment settings...toe, caster, and camber.

Toe is the most easily adjustable and is the most often needed adjustment. It is the measurement from the front of one tire to the front of the opposite side tire, or rear of one to the rear of the other. When you turn your wheel, the motion of the tires is the motion that toe adjustment sets, but it is in relation of one tire to the other and how straight they travel down the road in a parallel relationship to each other. This setting will cause tire wear, but it is a common misconception that it will cause a car to pull. It will not cause a pull. It will however cause your steering wheel to be off center, or crooked.

Camber is the adjustment of the top of your wheel leaning in or out in relation to the bottom of your wheel causing the tire to ride more on the outer edge of the tread, on the inner edge of the tread, or squarely on the center of the tread as the tire was intended. This setting will cause tire wear, will cause a car to pull one way or the other, and in extreme cases of being out of manufacturers specs can cause unstable and erratic handling. Some cars have adjustments from the factory for camber, though an increasing amount of cars require purchase of aftermarket cam bolts or bushings in order for the camber to be adjusted. This is particularly true of a lot of imports like Toyota and Nissan though it varies my make and model.

Caster is the least needed adjustment and is in some cases not adjustable on some makes and models. It is the measurement of the angle of a line drawn through your upper and lower ball joint in relation to the ground. Imagine a line traveling from the top of your tire to the bottom that is straight up and down. If you leaned the top of that line toward the front or the rear of your car, that would be the movement of the caster. The rake angle on a bike is the same thing. Caster adjustment affects the straight line stability of a car and how quickly and easily a car will turn into a corner. Caster does not cause cause tire wear and will not usually cause a pull, except in extreme cases of caster offset between one tire and the other.

Sometimes a manufacturing flaw in a tire will make it cause a pull even when the tire is brand new and with a perfect alignment. This is commonly called a radial pull. To diagnose a radial pull, swap the front tires and drive the car again. If it is a radial pull, the car will now pull on the opposite direction as it did before.

Some other causes are tires already irregularly worn from a bad alignment, worn shocks, or lack of proper rotation. Also, mismatched size tires on each side, uneven tire pressures on each side, and early signs of tire malfunctions such as a broken or separating belt inside of the tire carcass. Broken or separating belts are most commonly accompanied by a shake or vibration and may or may not cause a pull.

No the valve seals are between the cam and the head, under the valve spring

to set on fire
In an automotive sense, ignite is the "explosion" of the fuel in the head cylinder when the spark plug "fires". The "explosion" forces the piston down to rotate the crankshaft and provide power to the engine.

Richard Palmer is the founder and creator of D30.

a 302

Front: 6.5"

Back: 5" x 7"

b20- 145 hp- 6800 rpm

b18a or b18b- 143 hp 6800 rpm

b18c1 -180 hp -7400 rpm

b18c5-210 hp- 8400rpm

if you can get ahold of a b18c1 , not cheap, but overall performance, better hp, low end and top end, but depends on budget.

honestly, neither, do what i did. I got the block from a b20b and used a b18c1 head, and wired the vtec i make about 201hp

you have to think about torque.

the b20z makes 133lbs of torque that's 6lbs more than the b18a/b and 8lbs more than the GSR.

Low to midrange torque is what gets you moving from a dead stop.

The final decision of which is "best" varies individually of the person using the engine and their needs.

And yes you can add a vtec head to the nonvtec bseries engines.

But theres no way possible you will make 201 hp(not at the crank and def not at the wheels) on stock bottom end and head. Plus you cant spin a b20vtec to gsr redline so its not going to be the same no matter how you look at it.

there ain none but u can get it done on eBay for 1 pound

It is in the owners manual. If you don't have one get one from MOTORLIT.COM

5/8"

this occur, when the filter is dirty or there is not enough gas in the car, or a defective fuel pump.

They are on the sides of the engine block.

$2,822.00

Well I happen to have changed mine on my 93 GT yesterday. Not an easy task for someone with very little tools, I tell you. But after about 3 hours of work I got it done. Let me know if you have a GT or an LX. The process is different for both. I can e-mail you a diagram for either one. :)

you may need a new clutch or there may me some sort of sensor or switch that is bad

The first step in the process of conducting an economic analysis is to identify appropriate economic indicators for specific economic forecasts or trends.

You just turn the whole distributor loosen both bolts and turn slightly when the car is running.

i was wondering if you changed you water pump??? i got mine almost out all but 2 bolts...not to bad. you have to take the timing cover and belt off..then your water pump is right there..pass..side..remove right tire...let me know about the bolts...

The real answer is that there is no standard for automotive oil amount.

The amount of oil can vary between makes and models. Generally German cars are known to hold more oil amounts. 5 qts seems to be preferred by many V6 engines. Please refer to your owner's manual.

Assuming that the fireplace is lit, the lighter fluid will ignite and cause the lighter to explode, causing a slight shrapnel effect. I advise greatly against trying this, in order to protect yourself from any harm. If you do attempt this, make sure to take very careful precautions, such as a fire extinguisher at the ready, some safety glasses, and something sturdy and thick to to hide behind in order to prevent any and all possible lacerations to the body.