Ford Escort LX

fuse box should be located drivers side kick panel. pull cover off. cover indicates fuse (pwr wind. 30a should be exactly in center. inside of cover should ave a white puller and a few spare fuses. if not, use a pair of needle nose pliers. pull fuse out and push new fuse in.

Black smoke indicates excessive fuel

possibly the engine is flooding

this would also explain the gurgling.

The safety switch is located under the radiator belt. You can trace the positive wire from the battery and it will end up at the safety switch.

they're on different fuses....but i also suspect that it could be 2 different fuses are blown....check the ground connections to body to both lamps/lens bodies at rear

That's not a question. Try asking"Why won't my ford escort start?"

look for a diagram online or get a haynes manual.

haynes escort/orion book from your local car store, i.e halfords...

If this is a scenario that I am picturing to be, a T-Bone type accident, then the other driver who hit the side of the car is definitely at fault. Now... please remember... parking lot/garage rules can differ and fault is OFTEN divided regardless of how obvious fault is. I can tell you that if there are security cameras, guards, witnesses, use them to support your claim and rid yourself of your fault-determination. This is allowable with most insurers... especially if you have the PROOF! Good Luck and DON'T back down if you are truly 0% fault - I am a Broker... hope this helps~!

Take the covers off (10 or 11 mm bolts). look for a mark on the cog and on the engine block sometimes thers a hole that you can put a bolt in but not allways. turn with spanner till they line up. drop left side of the engine but put a jack under it b4 you unbolt anything. once dropped jack car up and mark every cog with tip ex then mark the engine so they all line up like the top cog. There should be a TENSION COG in the middle (DRAW A GUIDE SO YOU KNOW HOW THE BELT GOES ROUND THE COGS). loosen the TENSION COG so the belt is loose take belt off if theres any bits bolted to the engine take em off out the way. put new belt on then re tension the belt. you want it a nice snug fit not too loose not to tight that it comes off. put everything back in reverse order jack engine back up bolt it too the car and you're done. if there isn't a tension cog just undo the bottom cog ( 19 or 22 mm i think) take belt off put new 1 on from bottom upwards. leave the top cog till last. put the belt on from the back of car towards you get a spanner on the cog and a blunt flat screwdriver between the belt and the cog and turn push at the same time til it goes on. make sure all the cogs line up with marks b4 you start the engine. YOU'RE DONE ALL IN ALL ABOUT 2-3 HOUR JOB if you've never done it 4!!! gud luck I have the same car so ask me if you get stuck!!

The temp sensor is in the transducer inside the transmission on the vavle body. The transducer is usually gold and has a 4 wire oval connector. the temp sensor is built into it

There is no idle screw. The idle air control valve controls the idle and can be set on different settings. You should consult a Ford dealer or mechanic for proper settings.

Only if you consider loss of steering control dangerous

I HAVE A 1999 FORD ESCORT, THERMOSTAT WAS RECENTLY CHANGED & AN OIL CHANGE WAS DONE, NOW THE CAR STARTS THEN CUTS OUT & NOW WILL NOT START AGAIN, WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?

check your mass air flow sensor on the air intake tube off your air box. sometimes ppl forget to plug it back in. without it the engine doesnt know how much air its getting an wont stay running.

First i would get a flashlight and take a good look at the back of the headlight assembly in the engine compartment. First there is a grey dust/water cap over the bulb and wire harnes this will come off with a slight twist to the left. In order to remove it all the way out of the way you must remove a wire harnes that is connected to the back of it after you get it unseated you can use a small set of needle nose pliars to pinch the little connector on one side then move 180 deg .pinch that side and it should push right off of the dust cap. Then the dust cap can be completely removed. After that look with your flashlight and the gently pull on the wire harness that is connected to the light bulb assembly a little wiggle and tension and that should come right off. Last but no least flashlight required again look at the bulb where the wire harness connected to it. Just to the outside of it there is a circular lock ring that is black about 2" round that needs to be turned to the left and removed once that is out of the way you can grab the light bulb assembly and gently rock it out of its seat. Remeber do not touch the bulb part of your new bulb or it will shortly burn out. To reassembly reverse directions. It should take you around 10-15 mins.

It doesn't matter. Your key won't work in the new one. They have to do something at the shop to make it work.

Actually you can remove it without the shop needing to do anything. My wife had an issue with ers, the dealer wanted to charge 200$ to fix it. I took it out, took it apart, cleaned it and reinstalled it and now it works fine. Its all over the Internet how to do it.

actually your key will work in the new one... you require a 15 torx angled to remove the old ignition switch and the replace it in the same order in which removed... after that put the key in the ignition and turn as if you were going to start it and then the pass-lock sensor will come on the dash at this time its programming the pass-lock system for your key and after ten minutes go by then the pass-lock symbol will turn off and then turn the ignition as if you start again and then it will do the same thing 10 mins and then off and turn the ignition and wait another 10 minutes turn the key and it should start. and everything will work again....

however the Saturn dealer if they do it all they have to do is program it threw your computer thus making it less time for them but it can be done and the only place you can buy the ignition switch is at the dealer not avail anywhere else...

and this is a known defect with the car although Saturn will never admit it or will they replace it at no cost...

An Escort water pump is located under the timing cover and is driven by the timing belt. Jack up the right front corner of the vehicle, remove the following: RF wheel, front motor mount, serpentine belt, belt tensioner crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and timing belt, to gain access to and replace the water pump. It is recommennded that you install a new timing belt when you replace the water pump.

remove the cap, make sure you keep track of all the horn parts... ie; the spring and the pin.... then use a Phillips head screw driver i believe to remove all the other little parts(white plastic piece, etc.). Then use a puller of some sort, there are steering wheel pullers available, however alot of the bigger pullers will work, and there u have it.. watch out it can really pop off of there so be careful. Some autoparts shorts rent tools, check with them

Use Mercon ATF.

you smash it

Don't try to "fix" electronic parts unless you're an electrical engineer. If it is broken, buy a new one. Places like O'Reilly, Autozone, Napa, Parts Plus, etc. carry them for around $50. If that's too much for you, your local junkyard will have one from $5 to $25. Just make sure you check whether or not the plastic gear on the bottom has 22 or 23 teeth.

What you have written does not sound familiar, the closest thing I can come to is that you have a low voltage reading on the upstream O2 sensor on the #1 cylinder side, replace the O2 sensor, reset the ECM and see if that remedies the problem.

The best source for a wiring diagram is a good repair manual. Hayes and Chilton makes good ones and are sold at most auto parts stores.

You have an idle air control valve and you also have a throttle position sensor. They are both located and the throttle body.

Most likely it would be a blown fuse in the fuse block.

Stick your head in the hood, and have your buddy honk it. You should find it fairly quick.