Ford Escort LX

First i would get a flashlight and take a good look at the back of the headlight assembly in the engine compartment. First there is a grey dust/water cap over the bulb and wire harnes this will come off with a slight twist to the left. In order to remove it all the way out of the way you must remove a wire harnes that is connected to the back of it after you get it unseated you can use a small set of needle nose pliars to pinch the little connector on one side then move 180 deg .pinch that side and it should push right off of the dust cap. Then the dust cap can be completely removed. After that look with your flashlight and the gently pull on the wire harness that is connected to the light bulb assembly a little wiggle and tension and that should come right off. Last but no least flashlight required again look at the bulb where the wire harness connected to it. Just to the outside of it there is a circular lock ring that is black about 2" round that needs to be turned to the left and removed once that is out of the way you can grab the light bulb assembly and gently rock it out of its seat. Remeber do not touch the bulb part of your new bulb or it will shortly burn out. To reassembly reverse directions. It should take you around 10-15 mins.

It doesn't matter. Your key won't work in the new one. They have to do something at the shop to make it work.

Actually you can remove it without the shop needing to do anything. My wife had an issue with ers, the dealer wanted to charge 200$ to fix it. I took it out, took it apart, cleaned it and reinstalled it and now it works fine. Its all over the Internet how to do it.

actually your key will work in the new one... you require a 15 torx angled to remove the old ignition switch and the replace it in the same order in which removed... after that put the key in the ignition and turn as if you were going to start it and then the pass-lock sensor will come on the dash at this time its programming the pass-lock system for your key and after ten minutes go by then the pass-lock symbol will turn off and then turn the ignition as if you start again and then it will do the same thing 10 mins and then off and turn the ignition and wait another 10 minutes turn the key and it should start. and everything will work again....

however the Saturn dealer if they do it all they have to do is program it threw your computer thus making it less time for them but it can be done and the only place you can buy the ignition switch is at the dealer not avail anywhere else...

and this is a known defect with the car although Saturn will never admit it or will they replace it at no cost...

An Escort water pump is located under the timing cover and is driven by the timing belt. Jack up the right front corner of the vehicle, remove the following: RF wheel, front motor mount, serpentine belt, belt tensioner crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and timing belt, to gain access to and replace the water pump. It is recommennded that you install a new timing belt when you replace the water pump.

remove the cap, make sure you keep track of all the horn parts... ie; the spring and the pin.... then use a Phillips head screw driver i believe to remove all the other little parts(white plastic piece, etc.). Then use a puller of some sort, there are steering wheel pullers available, however alot of the bigger pullers will work, and there u have it.. watch out it can really pop off of there so be careful. Some autoparts shorts rent tools, check with them

Use Mercon ATF.

you smash it

Don't try to "fix" electronic parts unless you're an electrical engineer. If it is broken, buy a new one. Places like O'Reilly, Autozone, Napa, Parts Plus, etc. carry them for around $50. If that's too much for you, your local junkyard will have one from $5 to $25. Just make sure you check whether or not the plastic gear on the bottom has 22 or 23 teeth.

What you have written does not sound familiar, the closest thing I can come to is that you have a low voltage reading on the upstream O2 sensor on the #1 cylinder side, replace the O2 sensor, reset the ECM and see if that remedies the problem.

The best source for a wiring diagram is a good repair manual. Hayes and Chilton makes good ones and are sold at most auto parts stores.

You have an idle air control valve and you also have a throttle position sensor. They are both located and the throttle body.

Most likely it would be a blown fuse in the fuse block.

Stick your head in the hood, and have your buddy honk it. You should find it fairly quick.

Any struts from Escort years of 97-02.

Yes but it would be way too involved, and completely pointless..

You would need 1.9 motor, tranny, axles, ecu, wiring harness, and ontop of that u will be working backwards, its a 40hp loss, and its quite frankly an inferior motor when compared to the likes of the Mazda BP that's in the GT

Look down in the console in the slot the e-brake lever comes you will see a 10mm nut just tighten it up to remove all the slack Caution do not over tighten this nut or you will break the cable just tighten it enough to remove the slack if it feels like it doesn't want to turn anymore than stop there. If you still have lots of slack than you have a frozen cable

left hand side to the front

rear side of oil pan

Remove the horn button by gently prying it loose. Unplug the wire. Remove the retaining clip with a snap ring tool or just by prying with a small flat screwdriver. You can also use a small pair or needle nose, pulling the handles apart to open the clip. Remove the steering wheel nut. Next, you will most likely need a steering wheel puller. You can usually borrow this from a parts store. You will attach the puller using the two small, threaded holes on either side of the main bolt. The main part of the puller will push on the center, while pulling the two outer bolts. The wheel should release after a few cranks of the wrench.

Start with the screws at the rear of the mid-console. There are some round things instead of screws you'll find; be careful not to break the insertion end of these. You'll remove screws and such around the parking break up to the area where the stereo is. With the screws and screw-like things removed, the piece around the break and gear shifter can be removed. When I did this, I found I had to have the car running, the emergency break pulled, and be in a gear other than park in order to pull the casings off. THis really is simple to do, just somewhat tedious. Don't be like me and loose various screws in the process!!

Please check your spark plugs,wires,distributor and rotor or the ignition coil module. My '93 LX has an ignition coil module.

If you are speaking of the "keyed" switch and not the electric column switch, it is not so bad, but I am a locksmith and my point of view may be a bit skewed. Question 1: Is the steering column round, if not ignore the following and call me @ 610.802.0802. If so you have it easy. You will need two "specific" tools available at your local autoparts store. A lockring compressor and a wheel puller. WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLUMN, follow the first few steps at this site I have listed (you will not have to unscrew the metal plate. It will be plastic and will pop right off.) When you get to the step where it says remove the key buzzer contacts, after removing this contact, this is where these instructions end for you. DO NOT FOLLOW ANY FURTHER. Behind this buzzer tab you will see a small set-screw. 7mm., 3/16, or Torx 15 or 20. Remove this screw and the cylinder will slide right out! Reverse the steps and you are done! Post: In the final picture, the one with the key buzzer, it shows three bolts that come out.....NOT FOR IGNITION REMOVAL, so do not do so! Post Post: Have fun removing the "spring clip"! HINT: two tiny screwdrivers. Y-THINK-Y If you are speaking of the "keyed" switch and not the electric column switch, it is not so bad, but I am a locksmith and my point of view may be a bit skewed. Question 1: Is the steering column round, if not ignore the following and email me @ marklast2006@gmail.com If so you have it easy. You will need two "specific" tools available at your local autoparts store. A lockring compressor and a wheel puller. WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLUMN, follow the first few steps at this site I have listed (you will not have to unscrew the metal plate. It will be plastic and will pop right off.) When you get to the step where it says remove the key buzzer contacts, after removing this contact, this is where these instructions end for you. DO NOT FOLLOW ANY FURTHER. Behind this buzzer tab you will see a small set-screw. 7mm., 3/16, or Torx 15 or 20. Remove this screw and the cylinder will slide right out! Reverse the steps and you are done! Post: In the final picture, the one with the key buzzer, it shows three bolts that come out.....NOT FOR IGNITION REMOVAL, so do not do so! Post Post: Have fun removing the "spring clip"! HINT: two tiny screwdrivers. Y-THINK-Y

On the rear of the engine(driver' side of the car), under the ignition coil assembly. The t-stat housing is held on with three 8 mm bolts. It is at the engine end of the top radiator hose.

red water, i can think of two possabilities, rust,but that would not be exactly red. 2 a leak in your transmission cooler that runs through the bottom of the radiator. transmission fluid is usually red. a leak here would get into your cooling system.

There is a round piece of soft plastic that sits on the inside of the hardware that controls the brake pedal arm. A white piece directly across from this piece apparently activates or deactivates the brake lights. This blue piece of plastic pushes in that white piece enough to make the brake lights go off. This blue piece has broken down over time. Now, if I can just find a replacement part...

I don't believe so. Think of a basketball and a super ball. (I know, this is for example) Both of them bounce super high, and a baseball doesn't bounce.

I think it depends on the air inside of it and not the size. Basketballs have air, super balls too, footballs bounce a little also.