Ford Escort LX

Any struts from Escort years of 97-02.

Yes but it would be way too involved, and completely pointless..

You would need 1.9 motor, tranny, axles, ecu, wiring harness, and ontop of that u will be working backwards, its a 40hp loss, and its quite frankly an inferior motor when compared to the likes of the Mazda BP that's in the GT

Look down in the console in the slot the e-brake lever comes you will see a 10mm nut just tighten it up to remove all the slack Caution do not over tighten this nut or you will break the cable just tighten it enough to remove the slack if it feels like it doesn't want to turn anymore than stop there. If you still have lots of slack than you have a frozen cable

left hand side to the front

rear side of oil pan

Remove the horn button by gently prying it loose. Unplug the wire. Remove the retaining clip with a snap ring tool or just by prying with a small flat screwdriver. You can also use a small pair or needle nose, pulling the handles apart to open the clip. Remove the steering wheel nut. Next, you will most likely need a steering wheel puller. You can usually borrow this from a parts store. You will attach the puller using the two small, threaded holes on either side of the main bolt. The main part of the puller will push on the center, while pulling the two outer bolts. The wheel should release after a few cranks of the wrench.

Start with the screws at the rear of the mid-console. There are some round things instead of screws you'll find; be careful not to break the insertion end of these. You'll remove screws and such around the parking break up to the area where the stereo is. With the screws and screw-like things removed, the piece around the break and gear shifter can be removed. When I did this, I found I had to have the car running, the emergency break pulled, and be in a gear other than park in order to pull the casings off. THis really is simple to do, just somewhat tedious. Don't be like me and loose various screws in the process!!

Please check your spark plugs,wires,distributor and rotor or the ignition coil module. My '93 LX has an ignition coil module.

If you are speaking of the "keyed" switch and not the electric column switch, it is not so bad, but I am a locksmith and my point of view may be a bit skewed. Question 1: Is the steering column round, if not ignore the following and call me @ 610.802.0802. If so you have it easy. You will need two "specific" tools available at your local autoparts store. A lockring compressor and a wheel puller. WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLUMN, follow the first few steps at this site I have listed (you will not have to unscrew the metal plate. It will be plastic and will pop right off.) When you get to the step where it says remove the key buzzer contacts, after removing this contact, this is where these instructions end for you. DO NOT FOLLOW ANY FURTHER. Behind this buzzer tab you will see a small set-screw. 7mm., 3/16, or Torx 15 or 20. Remove this screw and the cylinder will slide right out! Reverse the steps and you are done! Post: In the final picture, the one with the key buzzer, it shows three bolts that come out.....NOT FOR IGNITION REMOVAL, so do not do so! Post Post: Have fun removing the "spring clip"! HINT: two tiny screwdrivers. Y-THINK-Y If you are speaking of the "keyed" switch and not the electric column switch, it is not so bad, but I am a locksmith and my point of view may be a bit skewed. Question 1: Is the steering column round, if not ignore the following and email me @ marklast2006@gmail.com If so you have it easy. You will need two "specific" tools available at your local autoparts store. A lockring compressor and a wheel puller. WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLUMN, follow the first few steps at this site I have listed (you will not have to unscrew the metal plate. It will be plastic and will pop right off.) When you get to the step where it says remove the key buzzer contacts, after removing this contact, this is where these instructions end for you. DO NOT FOLLOW ANY FURTHER. Behind this buzzer tab you will see a small set-screw. 7mm., 3/16, or Torx 15 or 20. Remove this screw and the cylinder will slide right out! Reverse the steps and you are done! Post: In the final picture, the one with the key buzzer, it shows three bolts that come out.....NOT FOR IGNITION REMOVAL, so do not do so! Post Post: Have fun removing the "spring clip"! HINT: two tiny screwdrivers. Y-THINK-Y

On the rear of the engine(driver' side of the car), under the ignition coil assembly. The t-stat housing is held on with three 8 mm bolts. It is at the engine end of the top radiator hose.

red water, i can think of two possabilities, rust,but that would not be exactly red. 2 a leak in your transmission cooler that runs through the bottom of the radiator. transmission fluid is usually red. a leak here would get into your cooling system.

There is a round piece of soft plastic that sits on the inside of the hardware that controls the brake pedal arm. A white piece directly across from this piece apparently activates or deactivates the brake lights. This blue piece of plastic pushes in that white piece enough to make the brake lights go off. This blue piece has broken down over time. Now, if I can just find a replacement part...

I don't believe so. Think of a basketball and a super ball. (I know, this is for example) Both of them bounce super high, and a baseball doesn't bounce.

I think it depends on the air inside of it and not the size. Basketballs have air, super balls too, footballs bounce a little also.

'99 Ford Escort ZX2: 6.5" front, 6x8" rear

Instrument Panel Lamp Procedure per Prizm Shop Manual This procedure only applies to cars with tilt steering wheels. Prizms without tilt wheels are infinitely more difficult because you have to disable the airbag system and remove the trim covers from the steering wheel. Important: The ignition switch must be in the OFF position when removing the instrument cluster assembly. 1. Tilt the steering column down in order to gain the necessary clearance to remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 2. Remove the two screws that secure the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 3. Disengage the two lower clips (hidden) 4. Gently remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate from the instrument panel assembly. 5. Remove the three screws which secure the instrument panel assembly, pull out the assembly carefully. 6. Mark the the 4 electrical connectors where they connect to the cluster assembly so that you remember which connector went to which socket 7. Disconnect the 4 electrical connectors from the cluster assembly 8. Remove the instrument cluster assembly 9. Remove the instrument cluster retainer with the instrument cluster lens attached from the instrument cluster case by releasing the 8 locking tabs. 10. Remove the cluster bulb socket from the instrument cluster case by turning in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the old bulb from the socket and replace the bulb. 11. Reverse the procedure to reassemble NOTE: This is such a convoluted procedure you should replace all bulbs while you are this deep into it. Trust me, the other bulbs will soon go bad. Incredibly, the shop manual does not list the part number of the bulb. Note 2: It is easier, and you are less likely to break the trim plate, if this is done while the dash is warm and therfore more flexible. Like parked in the sun for a while before starting. Also, the bulb is a #194, and you will want to get green colored "instrument bulb boots".

The CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) is located just below the intake housing on the bottom of the strut tower on the driver side of the car. It is about 6 X 6 inches and an inch thick. There are a bunch of wires running into it. It controls the relays for the high and low fan speeds, the air conditioning compressor clutch and the fuel pump relay. It has been known mostly because of a defective solder joint which eliminates the clutch action on the A/C compressor. It's expensive--135 bucks. Can get a used one at the bone yard for 15 bucks.

A ( 1996 ) Ford Escort , 1.9 liter four cylinder engine had a engine cooling

system capacity of :

With manual transaxle ( transmission ) it took ( 5.3 U.S. quarts / 5.0 liters )

With automatic ( 6.3 quarts / 6.0 liters )

It came from the factory with a 50 / 50 mix of distilled water and GREEN colored antifreeze ( meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A )

I believe it is located on the left side accross from the front spark plug. It is under the intake. you have to look close. that is where it is on my six. i am not sure about an 8

They are normally located either behind the glove box or under it somewhere.

relays will be found on inerfenders or firewall

The Diagram is on the fuse box, both on the one in the engine compartment and also in the cab. Bruxh the dirt off and it shows all. If that doesn;t work for you, buy a Chiltons.

your engine is "missing" suspect problem in ignition or vacuum systems. check plugs,wires,timing, possible vacuum leak look for broken or cracked hoses. also check for clogged fuel filter, cracked distributor cap, and faulty egr valve

5w-30
I use 5w-30 full synthetic, but I put those rpms pretty high sometimes.
Cheap walmart 5w-30 synthetic (Tech brand) is fine you dont need those fancy synthetics... it's not a corvette after all.

Well hopefully you are honest to do the following. You should at first attempt to locate the owner. If you have time, depending on your location, wait 15 - 20 minutes for the owner to come back to their car and hopefully you can talk the incident over. If thw owner can't be located, leave a note with your name and phone number and insurance information.

possibly dirty or defective idle control valve. Tried replacing this part but no luck still :( Did the same thing as before