Ford Escort LX

'99 Ford Escort ZX2: 6.5" front, 6x8" rear

Instrument Panel Lamp Procedure per Prizm Shop Manual This procedure only applies to cars with tilt steering wheels. Prizms without tilt wheels are infinitely more difficult because you have to disable the airbag system and remove the trim covers from the steering wheel. Important: The ignition switch must be in the OFF position when removing the instrument cluster assembly. 1. Tilt the steering column down in order to gain the necessary clearance to remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 2. Remove the two screws that secure the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 3. Disengage the two lower clips (hidden) 4. Gently remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate from the instrument panel assembly. 5. Remove the three screws which secure the instrument panel assembly, pull out the assembly carefully. 6. Mark the the 4 electrical connectors where they connect to the cluster assembly so that you remember which connector went to which socket 7. Disconnect the 4 electrical connectors from the cluster assembly 8. Remove the instrument cluster assembly 9. Remove the instrument cluster retainer with the instrument cluster lens attached from the instrument cluster case by releasing the 8 locking tabs. 10. Remove the cluster bulb socket from the instrument cluster case by turning in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the old bulb from the socket and replace the bulb. 11. Reverse the procedure to reassemble NOTE: This is such a convoluted procedure you should replace all bulbs while you are this deep into it. Trust me, the other bulbs will soon go bad. Incredibly, the shop manual does not list the part number of the bulb. Note 2: It is easier, and you are less likely to break the trim plate, if this is done while the dash is warm and therfore more flexible. Like parked in the sun for a while before starting. Also, the bulb is a #194, and you will want to get green colored "instrument bulb boots".

The CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) is located just below the intake housing on the bottom of the strut tower on the driver side of the car. It is about 6 X 6 inches and an inch thick. There are a bunch of wires running into it. It controls the relays for the high and low fan speeds, the air conditioning compressor clutch and the fuel pump relay. It has been known mostly because of a defective solder joint which eliminates the clutch action on the A/C compressor. It's expensive--135 bucks. Can get a used one at the bone yard for 15 bucks.

A ( 1996 ) Ford Escort , 1.9 liter four cylinder engine had a engine cooling

system capacity of :

With manual transaxle ( transmission ) it took ( 5.3 U.S. quarts / 5.0 liters )

With automatic ( 6.3 quarts / 6.0 liters )

It came from the factory with a 50 / 50 mix of distilled water and GREEN colored antifreeze ( meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A )

I believe it is located on the left side accross from the front spark plug. It is under the intake. you have to look close. that is where it is on my six. i am not sure about an 8

They are normally located either behind the glove box or under it somewhere.

relays will be found on inerfenders or firewall

The Diagram is on the fuse box, both on the one in the engine compartment and also in the cab. Bruxh the dirt off and it shows all. If that doesn;t work for you, buy a Chiltons.

your engine is "missing" suspect problem in ignition or vacuum systems. check plugs,wires,timing, possible vacuum leak look for broken or cracked hoses. also check for clogged fuel filter, cracked distributor cap, and faulty egr valve

5w-30
I use 5w-30 full synthetic, but I put those rpms pretty high sometimes.
Cheap walmart 5w-30 synthetic (Tech brand) is fine you dont need those fancy synthetics... it's not a corvette after all.

Well hopefully you are honest to do the following. You should at first attempt to locate the owner. If you have time, depending on your location, wait 15 - 20 minutes for the owner to come back to their car and hopefully you can talk the incident over. If thw owner can't be located, leave a note with your name and phone number and insurance information.

possibly dirty or defective idle control valve. Tried replacing this part but no luck still :( Did the same thing as before

It is likely the duct work how ever it can be the fan has come off the fan motor

The First answer is correct, but most people think of the jam as the part the door latches on to. The lever should be located right below the latch on the door itself. It should say either Child locks on/off or lock/unlock. Depending on the make it will read something to that effect. In addition to this many times the child latch has vibrated to a middle position over the years making the door a pain to open. There should be a small lever on the door jamb.

it should be on the raditor next to the lower hose

You will see some screws around the light cover and you will need a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws. Take the cover off. Unscrew the old bulb (if you do this at a parts store like Auto Zone you can have them help you or take the bulb in to see which one you need to replace it or look in their manual in the store to see what bulb size you need). Screw in the new lightbulb. Put the screws back in. Seriously, you needed to know how to do this? Seriously.

Put the w wire back to where you got it. Now take a volt meter and determine if you have power between R and the common terminal (usually a blue wire or the C terminal). If you have 24V there is no problem with the tstat. You now must check the condensing unit(the one outside), and check for 24V. If you have voltage, check your breaker box or the outdoor disconnect box. You cannot leave the w wire on RC. What did you do with the RED wire that was on RC?

Its located on the passenger side behind the strut mount on the engine compartment and it has a rubber cover.

disconnect battery. remove cables at the starter. remove starter mount bolts. remove starter. replace starter. reinstall bolts. reinstall wires. reinstall battery cable.

Once you open the trunk you need to unscrew the 2 little black knobs that hold the cargo nets on. This will release the truck carpeting. Pull the carpeting back and you will see the gray metal around the backside of where the taillights are. There are two nut/bolt combination that you will need to unscrew (Mine were not on too tight and I was able to use a regular pair of pliers to grip them). Once these two nuts/bolts are removed push on the screws that they were attached to.. This will push the entire tail light out of its place on the back side of the car and you can pull it out now to get to the lights. There are three lights that will come out if you turn the black fittings and then pull out.

Their are two ways, first of all you need to remove the whole steering knuckle from the vehicle. First remove the brake caliper, and brake rotor. Then remove the axle from the knuckle, the two top bolts from the strut, lower control arm, and the outer tie rod. Then at this point you can just replace the whole knuckle. Or, the bearing sits in the knuckle behind the part where the rim would normally bolt to. It is a pressed in bearing, so in order to remove it you would need a press, hydraulic or manual. Face the knuckle downward, and with the proper press tool press the bearing out from the top until the spindle drops out, then press the bearing off the spindle. You can now reverse the process to install the new bearing.

Try changing your PCV valve it messes with the idle control. and shifting prob is likely in tranny and may not be related at all. try PCV valve and have your tranny serviced.

Not that hard, it's located on the back side of the motor. Make sure it's the starter. You can test it with a remote starter. My car has the problem with the ignition, because it started when I hooked up the remote.

L60 pan has wavy exterior shape like a 200r4 L80 has a rectagle shap w/straight sides like a th400

Crawl under the vehicle and find the drain line. Use a small blunt object like a pencil to unclog it.