Ford Escort LX

Yes. Recommend getting a adjustable cam gear. You can delete the VCT solenoid correctly later with a delete kit. ZXTuner.com sells both cam gears and VCT delete kits.

If it's sliping while it's vibrating, it's low hydraulic pressure inside the transmission. Either low fluid level, a worn hydraulic pump, leaking o-rings or seals or a blocked filter. In any case, if it's acting that way, you'ver probably caused significant damage to the clutches, in which case you'll probably need a rebuild.

drop the tailgate on side of bed where tailgate closes are couple of screws. thses hold the light assembly in bed. remove thse ,then remove light assembly light bulb is the able to be removed from back of assembly

fuse #11, 15 amp mini fuse. Check your fuse box cover for labelling.

It is on the intake manifold near the thermostat housing.

It doesn't have a fuse, it has a fuse link, which looks just like a reular wire, but it is made to burn internally. It is one of the fuse links in a bundle of fuse links on the left fender skirt area near the starter relay. You test a fuse link by tugging on it. If it puls apart fairly easily, it is blown.

Ford escorts usually average about 12 galllons.

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48.0 liters ( 12.7 U.S. gallons )

Yes it does. It is on the intake side under the cylinder head below the intake plenum. You have to take the intake manifold off to get to it.

transverse mounted four cylinder

The hazard flasher is in the fuse box by the driver's left knee. There's a panel right underneath the steering wheel. It's the round, silver cylinder.

According to the AutoZone website :

For a 1993 Ford Escort , 1.9 liter four cylinder engine :

With engine oil filter change :

( 4.0 U.S. quarts )

fuse box should be located drivers side kick panel. pull cover off. cover indicates fuse (pwr wind. 30a should be exactly in center. inside of cover should ave a white puller and a few spare fuses. if not, use a pair of needle nose pliers. pull fuse out and push new fuse in.

Black smoke indicates excessive fuel

possibly the engine is flooding

this would also explain the gurgling.

The safety switch is located under the radiator belt. You can trace the positive wire from the battery and it will end up at the safety switch.

they're on different fuses....but i also suspect that it could be 2 different fuses are blown....check the ground connections to body to both lamps/lens bodies at rear

That's not a question. Try asking"Why won't my ford escort start?"

look for a diagram online or get a haynes manual.

haynes escort/orion book from your local car store, i.e halfords...

If this is a scenario that I am picturing to be, a T-Bone type accident, then the other driver who hit the side of the car is definitely at fault. Now... please remember... parking lot/garage rules can differ and fault is OFTEN divided regardless of how obvious fault is. I can tell you that if there are security cameras, guards, witnesses, use them to support your claim and rid yourself of your fault-determination. This is allowable with most insurers... especially if you have the PROOF! Good Luck and DON'T back down if you are truly 0% fault - I am a Broker... hope this helps~!

Take the covers off (10 or 11 mm bolts). look for a mark on the cog and on the engine block sometimes thers a hole that you can put a bolt in but not allways. turn with spanner till they line up. drop left side of the engine but put a jack under it b4 you unbolt anything. once dropped jack car up and mark every cog with tip ex then mark the engine so they all line up like the top cog. There should be a TENSION COG in the middle (DRAW A GUIDE SO YOU KNOW HOW THE BELT GOES ROUND THE COGS). loosen the TENSION COG so the belt is loose take belt off if theres any bits bolted to the engine take em off out the way. put new belt on then re tension the belt. you want it a nice snug fit not too loose not to tight that it comes off. put everything back in reverse order jack engine back up bolt it too the car and you're done. if there isn't a tension cog just undo the bottom cog ( 19 or 22 mm i think) take belt off put new 1 on from bottom upwards. leave the top cog till last. put the belt on from the back of car towards you get a spanner on the cog and a blunt flat screwdriver between the belt and the cog and turn push at the same time til it goes on. make sure all the cogs line up with marks b4 you start the engine. YOU'RE DONE ALL IN ALL ABOUT 2-3 HOUR JOB if you've never done it 4!!! gud luck I have the same car so ask me if you get stuck!!

The temp sensor is in the transducer inside the transmission on the vavle body. The transducer is usually gold and has a 4 wire oval connector. the temp sensor is built into it

There is no idle screw. The idle air control valve controls the idle and can be set on different settings. You should consult a Ford dealer or mechanic for proper settings.

Only if you consider loss of steering control dangerous

I HAVE A 1999 FORD ESCORT, THERMOSTAT WAS RECENTLY CHANGED & AN OIL CHANGE WAS DONE, NOW THE CAR STARTS THEN CUTS OUT & NOW WILL NOT START AGAIN, WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?

check your mass air flow sensor on the air intake tube off your air box. sometimes ppl forget to plug it back in. without it the engine doesnt know how much air its getting an wont stay running.

First i would get a flashlight and take a good look at the back of the headlight assembly in the engine compartment. First there is a grey dust/water cap over the bulb and wire harnes this will come off with a slight twist to the left. In order to remove it all the way out of the way you must remove a wire harnes that is connected to the back of it after you get it unseated you can use a small set of needle nose pliars to pinch the little connector on one side then move 180 deg .pinch that side and it should push right off of the dust cap. Then the dust cap can be completely removed. After that look with your flashlight and the gently pull on the wire harness that is connected to the light bulb assembly a little wiggle and tension and that should come right off. Last but no least flashlight required again look at the bulb where the wire harness connected to it. Just to the outside of it there is a circular lock ring that is black about 2" round that needs to be turned to the left and removed once that is out of the way you can grab the light bulb assembly and gently rock it out of its seat. Remeber do not touch the bulb part of your new bulb or it will shortly burn out. To reassembly reverse directions. It should take you around 10-15 mins.