Ford Escort LX

Remove the wneels then the drum retainer that holds the drum on while it is on the assy line. Then pull the drums off. If the shoes have worn into the drums you have to retract the shoes to let the drums come off. If they are sticking on the center, sometimes heat is required to get them loose.

Remove the wheels then the drums should just slide off. If they are rusted on, WD40 and a hammer should do it. If the shoes have scored the drums, you have to retract the shoes first. If you can't do that you can pry the drums off and ruin the springs and fittings. You have to replace them and know how they go if you do that.

check the timing belt if it has broken or stripped its teeth this would cause a complete breakdown u can check this by removing the cover on the end of the engine.there are electrical issues therse would need checking 2 generally its to do with the earths the earth wires in and around the engine bay if and when they give trouble they can cause a non start.if not you will need to get your car to a garge so they can put it on a diagnostic machine .

You can start by looking at GreatLakesXJ.com/tech.html. Be sure to give a donation so they can keep their wonderful document library open. You'll find the factory manual and parts catalogs there.

There is no starter relay on an Escort. The main battery positive cable goes directly to the starter. A small wire with a clip on it marked s goes to the solenoid. The main battery current to the starter is supplied with this solenoid.

The radio antenna is a fine wire imbedded in the windshield. If your radio doesn't pull in any stations, but you get static then probably the cable came out of the back of the radio. If you recently got a new windshied it may have not had the antenna. You should be an antenna at an auto parts store and install it on the front fender.

There are many issues that can make a car sputter when accelerating. For instance, the sparks plugs may need to be replaced. Another issue could be that the exhaust could be clogged or there could be a bad injector.

Hey Amy==It depends on the make, and which engine you have. I would check the bolts on the a/c compressor, and the belt for correct tension and if it is a serpentine belt check it for cracks and brittelness. Goodluck. Joe

• disconnect battery cables
• drain the cooling system
• remove drive belt (4 cyl) or water pump drivebelt (6 cyl)
• (4 cyl instructions)
• remove right front wheel and splash guard
• remove water pump pulley
• remove bolts attaching water pump to engine block and then remove pump. if stuck tap w/ rubber mallet
• clean the bolt threads, remove all gasket (w/ sandpaper, or removal tool) scrap off sealent.
• (6 cyl)
• remove air filter housing
• remove water pump drivebelt tensioner
• remove water pump mounting bolts and water pump
• clean the bolt threads, remove all gasket (w/ sandpaper, or removal tool) scrap off sealent.
• (last steps for both models)
• apply rtv sealant, gasket
• mate pump to housing
• install bolts (89 in-lbs torque)
• reinstall belt, fill cooling system, reattach battery
  

On many cars it was built into the headlight switch, which was a knob on the dashboard, you pull it outward to turn the headlights on, you twist it clockwise to make the dash lights brighter, counterclockwise to dim them.

finger

wishbones

I am not 100% sure, but, may have a small black foam filter about 2cm square in the main air filter housing with a pipe leading down to the face of the engine block (front of engine under manifold). There you should find a small black box bolted to the block, this will receive the hose from the air filter housing. Inside this there will be a valve.This assembly is called the oil separator. All these parts make the PCV valve system (positive crankase ventilation)

To test - clean foam filter with methylated spirits. Remove oil separator and small valve. Valve should rattle when shaken. Flush out valve and separator with Carb cleaner. Check gasket, renew if necessary. Replace in reversal of removal.

It would do no harm to clean your EGR pipe and valve with carb cleaner whilst doing this.

N.B the PCV valve is under the exhaust manifold and access id HARD. So you may want to remove the manifold first.

Buy a haynes manual aswell this will help if you have the older Pulse Air system and not the EGR valve as associated pipe work makes getting to the PCV valve difficult. Hope this help. Not a difficult job, just take care and time.

186 60 14. I'm running 165/80r15 Kumhos on my 97 Escort wagon. I found the 15" rims at the local wrecking yard. The tires clear the front strut towers by 1/2". This setup gears up my car 10 percent thus improving gas mileage. The OEM tires are 23" high and these are 25 5/8". you could go with P185/65r15's as well and that would gear you up 5 percent and those are 24" tall.

In order to remove the key ignition switch on Ford's, the ignition must be in the run position and the holding pin depressed. Without the key, a locksmith is your best bet. Keys can be generated by code, try-out keys, the ignition can be drilled and removed, or in worse case, can be forced to the run position. Trying any of these without knowing exactly what you are doing will likely result in damage to column.

Sorry it's probably not the answer you were looking for.

Best Regards

Most Fords require a key to remove the ignition lock cylinder to replace it. HOWEVER the 1995 ingnition assembly can be removed regardless of having a key or not. You have to remove the stering wheel, multifunction switch (can be unscrewed and pulled over steering hub and moved aside without cutting wire ties or disconecting). then remove 4 steering column bolts allow steering column to drop. On top of steering column there is a collar with two rivet looking fasteners holding the lock assembly to the column, these are actually screws. Use a dremel tool with a cutting disk to slot the tops of the screws to allow a standard screwdriver to be used. Out comes the entire assembly and can be replace for about $130 for a new assembly. You can also replace the lock cylinder for about $25, but you have to remove the two roll pins holding it in place, this requires drilling them out and it is a royal pain. I think they are hardened steel, or stainless either way they eat drill bits and time. With a new set up your door keys will be different from the ignition, but without an ignition key to begin with, I would assume you need to replace the door locks also, you can buy a set so at least all of the doors will use the same key.

for me it was a bearing that was going. unfortunately i did not find this out until it broke and took my engine with it. So i would have someone listen when you shut off the engine to see if you can pin point where it is coming from. Mine was the tensioner pully of the timing system. ANSWER for lindseycm:

my car does the same thing. ford dealership said it was a loose drive shaft and not worth fixing. I have a 99 zx2 that was doing the same thing. It drove me nuts. Turned out to be the crankcase breather filter, dealer only part, about 15 bucks. It is located on drivers side on top, near valve cover and air breather tube. Has two vaccuum lines hooked to it. Try disconnecting to see if noise stops. If the noise stops, replace it. Dealers don't normally stock this, so you may have to wait a day. Good luck.

Remove - battery cable

Raise and support vehicle

Remove wiring at top of starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

It's the 100 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box by the battery.

If none of the dash lights are working, then it won't be the cluster. You are going to have a problem with one of the fuses, a switch, or wiring. Does it have running/tail lights? If it is just one bulb, then,

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

With a hammer, not a joking. hit it on the back side of the top out, but please take the tire off first.

Better solution:

First take off the two screws.These are the countersunk holes with Phillips head screw. These screws are holding the drum.

The brake drum has one or two threaded holes. These are not the countersunk holes with Phillips head screw that hold the drum to the wheel flange but are in the other one or two spaces between the lug bolt holes. On my ZX2, these holes are threaded for a 1/4 inch bolt (1/2 inch wrench), 16 threads per inch. Thread a bolt at least one inch long into each hole and tighten the bolt. If your car has only one hole as does mine, tighten the bolt to apply pressure to one side of the drum, then use a pry bar to ease the other side of the drum off. The lug nut wrench with the jack makes a good pry bar for this.

Hydraulic clutches use a slave cylinder mounted at / on the transmission to operate the clutch lever. It has a bleeder valve much like a brake wheel cylinder or brake caliper. It typically shares the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Use penetrant to minimize the risk of shearing the bleeder valve. Once the valve is working, use the same sequnce to bleed as for brakes. Depress the clutch, open the valve, close the valve, release the clutch, repeat till clear fluid (no old fluid which is YELLOw) and no air, flows. REFILL THE RESERVOIR as needed.

replace it