Ford Escort

left hand side to the front

My guess would be air in the system. Many clutch master cylinders must be bench bled correctly before installing.

The dash must be completely removed in order to gain access to the heater box. Then the heater hoses are disconnected and the heater box is removed and opened up. That gains access to the heater core for relacement.

Should be right beside the brake master cylindar.

Please check your spark plugs,wires,distributor and rotor or the ignition coil module. My '93 LX has an ignition coil module.

On the rear of the engine(driver' side of the car), under the ignition coil assembly. The t-stat housing is held on with three 8 mm bolts. It is at the engine end of the top radiator hose.

it probably doesnt have a steering column tilt on it

'99 Ford Escort ZX2: 6.5" front, 6x8" rear

below the left side of the instrument panel behind the kick panel on the fuse box

No, the bolt pattern is different. They will not fit.

you need to take of the right front wheel. Behind this you will find a plastic "plug". when you take this plug out you will see that bolt that needs to come off. Once you have taken the bolt out the pully should slide off. There is not alot of extra room so watch your hands. you need to take of the right front wheel. Behind this you will find a plastic "plug". when you take this plug out you will see that bolt that needs to come off. Once you have taken the bolt out the pully should slide off. There is not alot of extra room so watch your hands.

The positive cable is connected to the alternator and starter. The negative cable is connected to the chassis or engine ground. Positive is red and negative is black. The positive post is slightly larger than the negative post.

The CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) is located just below the intake housing on the bottom of the strut tower on the driver side of the car. It is about 6 X 6 inches and an inch thick. There are a bunch of wires running into it. It controls the relays for the high and low fan speeds, the air conditioning compressor clutch and the fuel pump relay. It has been known mostly because of a defective solder joint which eliminates the clutch action on the A/C compressor. It's expensive--135 bucks. Can get a used one at the bone yard for 15 bucks.

You call a professional if it is a windshield or glued perimeter part and if it is a door glass you can locate and remove the screws that hold the panel on and then pry the panel from the door frame and then clear the glass in the rubber tracks on the sides with a screwdriver or remove and clear and re-install the side/top track rubbers then remove either the track at the bottom of the glass and clean it and use urethane glue to push the new glass into or (mattering upon the year and model) remove the tabs that attach the glass to the regulator/track that were from the old broken glass then install the new glass which should have the tabs on there. vacuum door inside's bottom and slam to loosen glass to fall and vacuum again and your done. -awautoglass.com

A ( 1996 ) Ford Escort , 1.9 liter four cylinder engine had a engine cooling

system capacity of :

With manual transaxle ( transmission ) it took ( 5.3 U.S. quarts / 5.0 liters )

With automatic ( 6.3 quarts / 6.0 liters )

It came from the factory with a 50 / 50 mix of distilled water and GREEN colored antifreeze ( meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A )

Okay, this can be a BIG pain in the butt, but not if you do it right. It took me all day to tell that the belt was slightly offset on one of the lower pulleys. This was the only thing holding me back, but I'll walk you through from step one. Step one is... Take out the reservoir for the radiator. It's up against the firewall, and you'll have to pull off a little sensor, it's pretty simple. Next, there are a few hoses that will get in the way of the detensioning tool. I don't know what they are called, but I believe one is to an oil or hydraulic fluid cooler, and the other is the drainoff for the radiator. The main bracket holding it down is on the P/S pump, has three bolts, then the next is on the motor mount, and the third is on the frame, slightly underneath the alternator, but just a bit offset. There are several bolts and nuts, about 5 you have to remove. Once you get all of this out of the way, it will make your job 100% easier. The hoses should be slacked enough so that you can detension the belt properly. NOW, what you actually set out to do!

The first step is getting the belt in. Start at the very bottom. The pulley on the A/C pump was where I had issues at the very end, I had to (painfully) wedge my hand down in their, WHILE DETENSIONING, and slip it back on there straight. It is kind of dark in there, you'll need a light. Now, slip the belt onto the crank pulley. Have a second person on hand to hold the belt at the top to keep some tension on it while you slip it onto the A/C pump. Now slip it around the tensioner, over the water pump. Use a bent coat hanger to get it up under the ribbed idler and around the alternator. Once again, the threads have to be PERFECTLY STRAIGHT, or you are just screwing yourself. Next, go to the other side and slip it up around the power steering (P/S) pump, keep it over the smooth idler. Now that you have it all in place, turn the tensioner to the right to relieve the tension, and slip the belt underneath the smooth idler (it takes a tiny bit of shoehorning, as the motor mount is in the way). Viola! It should be on now. If it isn't, go over the whole thing with a flashlight and make sure the belt is one the threads properly anywhere. IF you have question as to whether something is on straight, and the belt won't go on, it's a good bet it has slipped a thread or two off of the crank pulley or A/C pump. You will know when it is all in place right, as when it is, the belt slips back in without a tidbit of resistance, easy as pie. The detensioner tool is indispensable for this, because I had to lean on the dang thing to make get enough slack and have my hands free to get the belt back on. Would not have worked with a wrench or ratchet. If you don't have one, you can rent one at Autozone. I am not sure about other part houses though. It's not to expensive, and a good investment as they are UNIVERSAL.

Refer to your owners manual if you have one, if not, i would recommend you use 5W30 all year round. Recommended by Ford. As for the type of oil, i am a Castrol man, works great in my escort, improves mileage, and reduces temperature. My 1996 ford escort wagon takes approximately 4 quarts of oil. You can drain your oil, change filter, and fill with 4 quarts (Yes it's safe), start your vehicle (knocking is normal, for about 3 seconds). Run it for about 30 seconds to a minute. Pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, re-instert, and check your oil level.

no but i wish they were!! lol

however some have spread the odd leg 4 pay from time to time lol

Check owner's manual. If you don't have one copy and paste link below; www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals--------------------------------------------------------------FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF SWITCH After a collision, if the engine cranks but does not start, the fuel pump shut-off switch may have been activated. The "Fuel Reset" indicator light will illuminate in the instrument cluster. The shut-off switch is a device intended to stop the electric fuel pump when your vehicle has been involved in a substantial jolt. 1. Turn the ignition to the OFF position. 2. Check the fuel system for leaks. 3. If no fuel leak is apparent, reset the fuel pump shut-off switch by pushing in the reset button. 4. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Pause for a few seconds and return the key to the OFF position. 5. Make a further check for leaks in the fuel system. Roadside emergencies The fuel pump shut-off switch is located in the passenger's foot well, behind the kick panel.

The Diagram is on the fuse box, both on the one in the engine compartment and also in the cab. Bruxh the dirt off and it shows all. If that doesn;t work for you, buy a Chiltons.

The question wasn't clear, but there is a fuel cutoff switch located in the trunk normally that can get triggered during an accident or even hitting a hard bump or pothole. Mine tripped on my 1994 escort when I hit a large pothole on a dirt road. Anyway, there is a cover you open and you can reset it there.

a common mistake when the timing belt is replace is to over tighten the timing belt tensioner. The tensioner has preset marks. One is a line, the other is a "c" shaped pointer. When setting the tensioner with the allen key, the "c" shaped pointer should be adjusted until the line is within the "c". This is the proper tension for the belt. If the tensioner was set properly the belt will not walk off the cam gears.

Some of the zetecs have the tendency to run near the edge, not truly in the center. This is normal. As mentioned, the important part is to make sure the tensioner is set correctly. Over tightening the tensioner will cause the belt to walk off the cam gears

Fully inspect your tires. A piece of one (or more of) your tires may be tearing off.

I finally went to the Ford parts department and they provided me with the diagram to replace the belt. Thanks anyway.

Follow the line from the receiver/dryer (On the passenger side of the firewall, looks like a metal bottle with lines running into it) towards the compressor. You can't charge your year of Escort without getting the special fittings from Ford.